Mardin: ancient Silk Road town

This guide to Mardin includes why to go there, how to get there, where to stay, what to do, where to eat and where to go next.

Why go to Mardin?

Mardin is another historical city in south-eastern Anatolia. It is located on a hill with the original fortress at the top with the old heavily-decorated houses cascading down. Mardin was a wealthy stop on the Silk Road and the resulting prosperity created the intricate buildings well-preserved to this day. Mardin was also the capital of the Turkic Artuqid dynasty between the 12^th and 15^th centuries, during which many of the Islamic heritage (mosques and madrasah, the religious schools) were constructed. The city has been also the center of the Syriac people with the Syriac Christian Orthodoxy being estabished in 431AD. Given its uniqueness, Mardin is a magnet for the Turkish tourists, also coming on tours, from Istanbul and Ankara. The views towards Mesopotamia and Syria are impressive from one of the Mardin cafes or restaurants, especially at sunset.

How to get there?

Mardin is well connected with a modern coach station (“otogar”) in the new part of the city. There are coaches to Urfa every 30-60 minutes, Diyarbakir, Istanbul and Ankara. The local companies include Mardin Seyahat and Dilmenler Mardin. Whereas Mardin Seyahat was fine, Dilmenler Mardin is not recommended (the wifi was not working, the bus was not clean and was delayed).

From the otogar to the old city (“eski Mardin”) the transportion options include a taxi or a city minibus. The modern minibus will take approximately 15 minutes to the old city and costs $0.30. Walking there is not recommended during the hot weather and climbing the hill road.

Where to stay in Mardin?

The first decision is if to stay in the old town or the new city (“Yenişehir”) close to the bus station. The new city will be cheaper and in a modern accommodation, but will require a minibus ride. The old city will be more atmospheric but more expensive. There are many hotels in Mardin catering to the tourist trade.

What to do there?

Mardin is a tourist town with all main sites in the old city along the main street (“1. Cadde” or “Cumhuriyet Caddesi”). They include the Church of the Forties (“Kirklar Kilisesi”), Zinciriye Medresesi (an old Islamic religious school), Citadel (“Kale”) and the Great Mosque. Please respect the etiquette when visiting mosques by taking off your shoes and placing them on the shelves, and avoid visiting during the prayer times.

The main attraction of Mardin is to see the important buildings, walk the maze of old houses uphill, sip coffee in one of the cafes with positive vibes, and have a good meal. In short, have a good time at a leisurly pace. No mountains to ascend or no big museums required to attend. Take it easy and enjoy.

There are some excellent cafes up the hill with few tour groups making the climb. While sipping dibek or menengic (the local coffee specialties), look at the flats of Mesopotamia, as if they extended till the end of the world.

There is also a potential one-day trip to another old town, Midyat. Many Turkish TV movies (including the successful soap operas) have been made in Midyat. Similar to Mardin but on a flat surface, 40 minutes by minibus.

Where to eat in Mardin?

There is a huge variety of restaurants along the main road. Two places were excellent. A tiny falafel place “Falafel Ammo Hamza” serving probably the best falafel in town by nice Syrian brothers. It is located at the beginning of the main road, easy to miss as so small. The falafel is not fatty but crispy and made to order. Sublime.

“Markulo Fasil” is a regular restaurant with a nice terrace overlooking the main street. The mezze are excellent, there is frequently live music, nice owners and staff in an exquisitely-renovated building will make it a memorable meal.

Finally, the local Syriac orthodox Christian population has been producing wine for centuries here. Probably a unique opportunity to try the Assyrian flavor and compare with the usual California, French, Australian, Italian and other wines.

Where to go next?

Within a few hours bus ride from Mardin, Anatolia offers other interesting historical sites:

• unique ancient Greek monuments in Nemrut Dagi (Guide to Nemrut Dagi, Turkey (2022))
• Göbekli tepe, a temple complex allegedly 11,000 years old (Sanliurfa and Göbekli tepe (11,000 years old!)))

and outstanding large cities:

• Diyarbakir with the best breakfast in Turkey
• Gaziantep with the best food in Turkey
• Hatay with a distinct Arabic influence (Hatay: kunefe desert and Greek mosaics)