This article describes the Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border crossing at Dostyk connecting Andijan and Osh. It includes the current requirements for both countries in terms of the Covid-19 vaccinations and the PCR or antigen tests.
It has the following sections:
- Summary
- Detour Tajikistan-Kyrgyzstan
- Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border at Dostyk
- Andijan (Uzbekistan)-Dostyk (border)
- Dostyk: Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border crossing
- Covid-19 Vaccination Certificates
- Covid-19 Tests
- Where to go next
Summary
In summary, as of November 2022 the Dostyk border crossing was straightforward with short queues, friendly officers and NO special Covid-19 requirements.
We did not have to show our vaccination certificates (paper or electronic) or the latest test results (PCR or antigen) at either border.
The public transportation (marshrutkas) was available and efficient on both sides of the border.
You do NOT have to take any taxis (private or shared) on either side of the border.
In addition to being cheaper, this saves all the hassle of negotiating with the drivers as the initial prices will be exorbitantly high.
Detour as Tajikistan-Kyrgyzstan border closed
In September 2022 the Tajikistan-Kyrgyzstan border was closed with no firm date for reopening. If traveling from Tajikistan to Kyrgyzstan, this requires a loop over Uzbekistan. If your destination is Osh and the southern mountains in Kyrgyzstan, the following loop is a good choice based on my experience:
(1) Penjakent – Samarkand (Kaftarxona): described in How to cross the Uzbekistan – Tajikistan border, duration: 2 hours, $1.50
(2) Samarkand – Tashkent: train, duration: 2-4 hours depending on the train (fast Afrosyob 2 hours, old-fashioned Sharq 4 hours), $10
(3) Overnight in Samarkand
(4) Tashkent – Andijan: train, duration: 6 hours (platzkart or kupe lying beds highly recommended), $10
(5) Andijan – Dostyk (Uzbekistan-Tajikistan border): bus, duration: 1 hour, $0.50 (described in detail below)
(6) Dostyk – Osh: marshrutka or shared taxi: 15-30 minutes, $0.20 (marshrutka) (described in detail below)
It is a loop which costs 2 days but it is always nice to look again at the Registan illuminated at night. In addition, you will probably meet some friendly Uzbeks, have great conversations, and be offered tea and local treats. Try that in New York or Paris.
Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border crossing at Dostyk
The core Uzbekistan – Kyrgyzstan border crossing is relatively uncomplicated with efficient passport control on both sides.
Andijan (Uzbekistan)– Dostyk (border)
Summary: bus, 1 hour, $0.50
If arriving on the train from Tashkent, the bus station is 5 minutes walking distance from the train station. When exiting the train station, immediately turn right and walk along busy road.
At the traffic lights cross the road, walk past the furniture shops, and the entrance to the bus station will be on your left (past the furniture shops).
A bus to Dostyk is departing from the second bay on the left hand side of the station. If in doubt ask for Dostyk and you will be shown the way.
This time it will not be a (cramped) marshrutka but a (cramped) middle-size bus (Isuzu in my case). It is departing every 20-30 minutes. Arrive early if you have a bag, it might be tight later.
If you prefer a shared taxi, the always attentive taxi drivers on the right-hand side of the station will spot you before you see them and offer the initial quote of UZS 100,000 ($10). As usually, this is only the opening number, which is exceedingly high.
Dostyk: Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border crossing
In Dostyk there will be many local Uzbek and Kyrgyz people crossing the border. However, the crossing was efficient in my case. There were several passport control booths open and the whole process took 10 minutes. You will then walk to the Kyrgyz passport control where the process was similarly efficient and completed in 10 minutes.
Afterwards you will see the final gate to Kyrgyzstan. This will probably be a highlight of the day again, as all the friendly taxi drivers and their friends will immediately descend on you once you cross the gate.
Take a deep breath, disregard all the chaos and enter the lions’ den.
Act as a seasoned Central Asian traveller, who made countless border crossings before. If you know a few words in Russian, say them now. Even if you are here for the first time, people will assume you know what you are doing. You will immediately get some respect, which will be helpful in any negotiation.
If you want to negotiate a (shared) taxi, meet some other tourists now as negotiating together will strengthen your position. Secondly, it will make the process less intense. Nothing better than to say “But I have to talk to my friends if they want to pay this price”.
Dostyk (border) – Osh (Kyrgyzstan)
Summary: marshrutka or shared taxi, 15-30 minutes, $0.20 (marshrutka)
Again, always easier if you exit as a group, even if you met the other tourist(s) 60 seconds earlier. Act in control, this is just another one of countless border crossings that you have done recently.
When you cross the gate, the fun starts at once. 10 taxi drivers will immediately approach you and start yelling at you. “Where are you going?”. “Quick, quick, I am leaving now”. “$10”. “$20”.
Disregard all this friendly noise. You have a choice to take either a (shared) taxi or a marshrutka. Taxi drivers will express their strong opinions that there are no marshrutkas going to Osh (“there were but a long time ago”, “the last one has just left”, “not today”).
Marshrutka
If deciding for a marshrutka, ignore all this helpful chatter and head for the marshrutka stop 30 seconds walking distance away. They are alive and well, and waiting for you. Many tourists and locals will be taking them with you.
Marshrutkas 116, 136, 137 and 138 have their initial stop in the parking lot next to the taxis on the right-hand side. You will see many of them waiting. Drivers will point you to the next one departing.
Marshrutkas will be packed with many local passengers getting on. If you have a lot of luggage, please move to the back or consider a shared taxi.
According to the marshrutka etiquette, it is NOT ok to place your backpack on the empty seat next to you if there are other (elderly) passengers standing. It is also a nice gesture to give the seat to an older person.
(Shared) taxi
If deciding for a (shared) taxi, the usual delightful negotiation process would start. Depending on the number of passengers already waiting, the price should be no higher than KGS 300 ($3.50).
It is absolutely fine to negotiate with several drivers at the same time. There are many drivers, the competition is fierce, and they want your fare. Negotiate firm and you will depart soon for a good price.
It also seems that there are different groups of drivers. The most aggressive and expensive ones speaking best English will approach first. If you stand firm and refuse those excessive quotes, another group will approach with lower prices. Not sure why but it usually works this way.
Finally, it is always a good question to ask how many other passengers are already departing with this particular driver. It is also absolutely fine to look into his car to see that. If there are already 2-3 other guests with their luggage already in the trunk and you would be the last one to go, this guarantees two things.
Firstly, the taxi driver will be interested in getting you in quickly and being more flexible on price. Secondly, if agreed, you will be departing within 60 seconds.
Overall, the initial taxi quotes will hover around KGS 800 ($10). Again, excessive.
Osh
Osh is pretty spread out so please check your map first where you are going. If on a marshrutka, you will have to know approximately where to get off.
Either check your GPS map or ask a local passenger. There will be always somebody who speaks (some) English and everybody will be willing to help this lost tourist soul.
Covid-19 Vaccination Certificates
As of November 2022 the Covid-19 vaccination certificates (paper or electronic) were NOT required by the Uzbekistan border authorities.
As of November 2022 the Covid-19 vaccination certificates (paper or electronic) were NOT required by the Kyrgyzstan border authorities.
Covid-19 Tests
As of November 2022 the Covid-19 tests (PCR or antigen) were NOT required by the Uzbekistan border authorities.
As of November 2022 the Covid-19 tests (PCR or antigen) were NOT required by the Kyrgyzstan border authorities.
The Covid entry requirements have been changing frequently. You might want to check the most recent information:
https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/kyrgyzstan/entry-requirements
Where to go next
The overall Kyrgyzstan travel guide is here: Kyrgyzstan.
For the Jeti Oguz mountains: Jeti Oguz.
If you are going to the Jeti Oguz resort (kurort / sanatorium): Jeti Oguz Sanatorium.
The overall Uzbekistan travel guide is here: Uzbekistan with Samarkand and Bukhara.
Other Central Asia border crossings:
How to cross the Uzbekistan – Tajikistan border
How to cross the Kyrgyzstan – Kazakhstan border at Korday
Avoid crowds in other destinations
Beyond this Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border at Dostyk information, you are interested in Kyrgyzstan and fewer crowds. My list of favorite places without the Paris or Florence crowds: Avoid Crowds When Travelling – Top 21 Tips (2022).
