Cyprus is awesome. Not using an over-used adjective but I really think so. This island is stunning, has excellent weather, good food, and great historical sites.
And because of its complex situation, it offers two different cultures within a walking distance. After Berlin was unified, Nicosia is the last divided city in Europe. It is weird and slightly thrilling to cross the Ledra border crossing with the UN forces and watch towers around. Amazingly, all immigration officers on both sides were smiling, polite and helpful. They even told me unsolicited where to go for a good breakfast and lunch.
And in general, people on both sides of the border are nice, hospitable and smiling. And how can you not smile when you live in such a nice place?
Everybody will find something interesting. Good beaches, excellent mountains, Roman archeological sites, Venetian buildings, monasteries, wineries. Even if you want to gamble, the north side has many casinos, which will gladly help you to part with your money.
The southern side seems wealthier with the Nicosia high rises, a sizeable expat community, and marine, accounting, and legal services thriving.
At the first sight, the northern side seems less prosperous, but more “raw” and authentic with its Turkish influence. However, Girne (Kyrenia) is a stunning port town full of Venetian architecture and a great springboard for the local Bellapais monastery or St. Hilarion castle. In any case, food will be excellent here as well (definitely try the breakfast platter). Regardless where you come from, you will be welcome here with a smile.
Finally, southern Cyprus is easily reachable from many European destinations, including the budget airlines of Wizzair, Ryanair and Easyjet. The northern part has an active airport Ercan, but please check your individual circumstances if using that and then travelling to the southern side.
In short, an excellent destination small enough to have day trips anywhere and enjoy all the good life the Mediterranean is offering here.
Cyprus in Numbers
Population: 1.2 million (southern), 0.3 million (northern)
Electricity: standard European 230V with 50Hz frequency, standard European plugs
Covid-19 Restrictions
As the Covid-19 requirements have been changing constantly, this Cyprus travel guide recommends checking the current restrictions before you depart for Cyprus AND before you cross the inner-island borders.
As of January 2023, NO Covid-19 restrictionson either side.
NO Covid-19 vaccination certificates requested at the arrival or border crossing.
Also, NO Covid-19 tests (PCR or antigen) requested at the arrival or border crossing.
Visas
This section of any Cyprus travel guide is easy as the entry requirements are relaxed for both parts of the island.
Southern part: no visa required for the EU, US, Canada and other passports
Northern part: no visa required for the EU passports
Unquestionably, the most thrilling border crossing is the Ledra Palace Hotel. Walking distance from Nicosia center, you will be walking past the peace-keeping British military forces, one of the most luxurious hotels before the partition (Ledra Palace Hotel), military observation towers and barren no-man’s land. All within 5 minutes walking distance.
Border guards on both sides are nice and helpful. Given there are not that many tourists, you will probably get tips where to find good food, how to catch a minibus to Girne or how to get back without a detour.
You might be asked where you are going, but probably more because of melancholy and personal interest, and less as a bureaucratic requirement.
On the northern side, there is a blue line painted on the pavement (partially worn off). This is a tourist path, at least in theory. If you follow that you will walk around a lot and see some interesting and some not-so-interesting buildings.
The alternative is to use a GPS map. If you are going to Girne (Kyrenia), which I highly recommend, please just go straight after the passport control to the roundabout. Then turn right and you see the minibus stop with people waiting there. Faster and easier.
When to Visit
Given its excellent climate, Cyprus is a good all year-round destination, especially for the sun-starved northern Europeans. Amazingly, it has 320 sunny days on average with perfect blue sky and clear air.
Spring (April-May) and fall (October-November) are excellent. You will leave the dark and rainy northern hemisphere and enjoy balm temperatures, sunshine and southern hospitality.
Winter is more chilly (relatively speaking, that would be still fall or spring temperatures in northern Europe). The upside is that there will be fewer tourists, except the Christmas period.
Safety
Both sides seem to be very safe. I have not encountered any issues on either side.
Hassle Factor
2/10. Nobody will bother you much on either side of the island. No aggressive hawkers. English is widely spoken in tourist areas on both sides.
Top 5 Things in Cyprus
Even though Cyprus is small, it can keep you busy and experiencing new interesting places for weeks.
Assuming you visit both sides (highly recommended), here is my attempt at the top 5 in Cyprus:
(1) Troodos mountains and villages
(2) Spend 2-3 days in Larnaca (a busy airport with reasonably priced hotels and restaurants on the beach plus historical sites like the church of Saint Lazarus, photo at the top of the page). Close nearby is Aiya Napa (party capital of the south side) or Protaras (same as Aiya Napa but more for families). Alternatively, Paphos with another convenient airport and some interesting archeological excavations (unfortunately, many still covered).
Roman mosaics at the Paphos archeological park.
(3) Visit Nicosia and definitely cross to the northern side, even if only on a day trip
(4) Spend 2-3 days in Kyrenia (Girne) on the northern side, and visit the Kyrenia castle, the Bellapais monastery and Karmi (Karaman), a picturesque expat village with renovated houses among the bougainvillea.
Girne (Kyrenia) is a a 60 minute dolmus ride from Lefkosa (northern part of Nicosia), bus stop just outside the old city walls. Departures every approximately 15-30 minutes.
The Bellapais monastery is a 20 minute taxi ride from the Girne center or a 90 minute walk past the English School of Kyrenia. If there is no bus tour, you will likely have it to yourself.
The Bellapais monastery.
(5) Famagusta (Gazimagusa) and the ancient ruins of Salamis. A 90 minute dolmus ride from Girne (Kyrenia), get off at the Itimat bus stop (final) at the roundabout. Negotiate and get a taxi to Salamis. Depart back for Girne from the same Itimat building (air conditioned, clean bathrooms), fixed time departures.
Transportation
The transportation options are different in the southern and northern parts.
This Cyprus travel guide recommends taking local transportation on both sides. You will meet interesting local people and other tourists, understand the local culture more, and contribute to the local economy.
Southern side
In the Republic of Cyprus (southern part) you will be travelling in modern large Mercedes, Scania or Volvo buses. Same buses, same experience as in Europe. Fixed departure timetables, good air conditioning, luggage goes into the bus hold. You can pay with your credit card and get a paper ticket. Everything seems to be well organized.
Luckily, if you arrive in Larnaca, the Larnaca airport has good local bus connections to the Larnaca city (EUR 1.50 one way). Conveniently, you will arrive at the stop on the main beach promenade and catch a long-distance bus to Limassol or Phapos from the same spot. Waiting for your bus will be quick regardless of the time as you will be next to the Finikoudes beach.
The main bus station in Nicosia on the southern side is in the city center, walking distance from the border.
The Paphos bus station is located outside of the main tourist area. You can walk to the Kings Avenue Mall for 20-25 minutes or take a local bus. The Kings Avenue Mall is at the front of the tourist and historical area of Paphos.
Overall, the southern Cyprus bus schedule and ticket information is below. I found the bus schedules across the whole southern side posted in every major stop helpful (always an English section as well).
The transportation in the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus is different and more in line with the Turkish minibus (“dolmus”). If you are familiar with those, you will immediately feel at home.
Flexibility
A dolmus is a Toyota or Isuzu minibus with the destination showed on the front window, departing from and arriving at a fixed location.
Pretty much everything else is flexible.
You come to the road curb, wave your arm and it will stop pretty much next to you. If it is full or you miss it, no worries. Another one will probably come in a few minutes. You can enjoy a fresh simit sold by the ever-present sellers.
You get in and usually pay when exiting your dolmus. When you want to get off, ask the driver to stop. Unless it is a roundabout or in the middle of the traffic lights, he (I have not seen any ladies driving) will stop there.
They usually depart when full, but sometime they do on a fixed schedule.
Sometimes you do get a paper ticket but usually you do not. Drivers seem to have a sixth sense in remembering where you got on and calculating the correct fare. In Cyprus, as a tourist, I paid the same fare as the local passengers.
The front seat next to the driver seems to be mostly in demand. If free, you can ask if you can sit there. Some drivers speak good English and have a wicked sense of humor when stuck in the Lefkosa traffic jam or speeding down the speedway.
salam
One of my favorite memories is when getting on the dolmus and greeting everybody “salam” (hello). Everybody knows you are a tourist making an effort. The whole minibus will smile and respond “salam” in one voice. Sometimes you might also get an English “hello”, which is an extra bonus.
The whole system is working without fixed schedules or stops but, amazingly, is working well. Even if you want to go to the smallest village or a remote beach on the eastern side, your dolmus (or another one) will get you there.
Finally, travelling with dolmus is best during the local passenger peak hours. Mornings until early evening are best.
Accommodation
Given high tourist numbers for decades, a wide variety of hotels across the price spectrum on both sides of the island.
International chains, mid-range or budget options are available in every tourist site.
Food (this Cyprus travel guide favorite section)
Food on both sides is Mediterranean with fresh vegetables, fruit, cheese, honey, pastries (both sweet and savory). You will feel lighter and more positive that you are contributing to your healthy diet. Even if all of them are full of calories.
Even if you are on a diet (and who isn’t nowadays?), try the excellent halloumi pies and other pastries on the southern side. And no trip to the north will be complete without some kebab or döner. Seafood is amazing everywhere especially with local wine and ouzo, available on both sides.
On the northern side definitely try the breakfast plate at Göçmen Börek Girne in Girne/Kyrenia consisting of many tapas-size dishes. And all for a few dollars.
In Larnaca try the Za’atar Lebanese Bakery for freshly made pies and falafel. Close nearby is the excellent Dimitris Souvlaki. It is just just off the main street and you can easily miss it. However, the food is fresh and great, portions generous and the owner is so nice.
In Paphos try the Zorba bakery. Its fresh juice and pastries, both sweet and savory, are freshly and tasty.
Internet
Wifi widely available in hotels and hostels, speeds can vary. Working (including Zoom, etc.) usually possible.
If you can have an EU phone card, most likely you can roam free of charge. However, as always, check your contract and the roaming clauses first to avoid any nasty exorbitant charges later on.
Overall Tips
(1) Bring cash.USD and EUR have the best exchange rates. Northern side is still largely a cash economy.
(2) Money exchange is straightforward on the northern side with many exchange offices. The exchange rates are largely similar except the Girne (Kyrenia) harbor.
(3) Drink filtered or bottled water.
Costs
Reasonably priced, especially the northern side which is on the Turkey price level. In NYC or London you would easily pay 2-5 times more for the same quality food.
Cyprus Overall Rating
Always a great destination for a few days or a a longer stay. Visit both sides, they are different but almost two trips within minutes or hours of each other.
Sun is almost guaranteed here with good food and a lot to do. Who would not like it?
WHERE TO GO NEXT
Beyond this Cyprus travel guide, consider visiting Turkey as it is so close.
If you are looking for an uncomplicated trip in a stable country with rich history, stunning Islamic and Christian buildings, excellent food and nature, and good weather, southern Spain has it all.
As Andalusia was under the Islamic influence for hundreds of years, the remaining architecture and food influences (e.g., baklava) are unique and can compete with some top sites in Uzbekistan, Egypt or Morocco.
The subsequent Spanish influence has created another layer of imposing castles, churches or city buildings with the Islamic elements. At its peak, Spain must have had immense wealth, which was so easily and quickly spent also on the impressive architecture.
Independent travel around here is straightforward. English is widely spoken in tourist areas. Comfortable hotels are available across the whole price spectrum. Trains and buses can be booked on the websites with English options.
When to Visit
Southern Spain is a year-round destination. However, spring and fall are best. Summer is hot with regular 30C+ temperatures.
Winter is more chilly with 10C+ difference between the day and night values. Warm jacket, scarf and hat would be required.
Itinerary
Which cities to visit?
Seville, Cordoba, Granada (for Alhambra) and Malaga are the flagships of southern Spain. The Malaga and Seville airports are easy connections on many European carriers including Ryanair, Easyjet and Wizzair.
Some additional attractive cities include Cadiz, Jerez and Jaén with smaller Baeza and Ubeda. Also, Gibraltar is close nearby if you want to visit this British enclave.
In my experience, Seville has a well-preserved old town, which must have been wealthy for centuries. The royal residence (alcazar) is impressive and, in my opinion, in a better shape than its more famous cousin Alhambra in Granada. The old town will be packed with tourists and locals partying on weekends.
On the other hand, Cordoba has a more relaxed feel with more families walking around the cobbled streets. The main Mezquita cathedral based on the earlier Islamic mosque and its gargantuan prayer hall is stunning. The Islamic depictions of heaven are as impressive as those in Samarkand or Bukhara in Uzbekistan, or Abu Dhabi. In addition, the Roman bridge and the palace ruins are great. Overall, Cordoba is a great option to enjoy at least 3 days and join the local families in a leisurely lunch in one of many excellent tabernas.
Granada is synonymous with Alhambra, the biggest tourist attraction in Spain. Justifiably so, the complex of Islamic Nasrid Palace, the Spanish Palace, the Generalife and Alcazaba is simply grand and should not be missed.
However, beyond Alhambra, you will discover a city of many impressive churches, monasteries and city buildings. At its peak, Granada must have enjoyed an almost unimaginable wealth, which so easily and so quickly was spent on all those buildings.
Itinerary loop
Andalusia cities form a circle so straightforward to select as many cities as your time allows (photo at the top of the page). Huelva, Cadiz, Jerez, Sevilla, Cordoba, Jaen, Ubeda, Baeza, Granada, and Malaga would take a few weeks. All main cities have airports with Sevilla and Malaga the main ones offering also Ryanair, Easyjest and Wizzair connections.
If you are landing in Malaga airport, there are several good bus connections directly from the airport.
(1) Malaga city center EUR4 one way operating 7:00 – 24:00
(2) ALSA bus to cities below. Buy ticket at the ALSA ticket booth outside the terminal building next to the bus stop.
Torre del Mar y Nerja: EUR 3 (Torre del Mar), EUR 5 (Nerja), 14:30
(3) Marbella / Estepona / La Linea / Algeciras
Seville
If you are coming to Seville by bus, you will arrive at the “Estacion de Autobuses Plaza de Armas” on the edge of the old town. Many old town hotels are then 10-20 minutes walking distance away. Also, a few supermarkets and eateries are on the way.
Luckily, many of the tourist sites are within walking distance along old streets. Some main interesting places are:
Real Alcazar de Sevilla
The royal palace is one of the true gems in Sevilla, Andalusia and Spain overall. A Moorish palace with additional Spanish elements, and large and well-kept gardens. The palace of King Don Pedro (“Palacio del Rey Don Pedro”) is the most impressive Islamic part. Its gates, wall and ceiling ornaments have been well renovated and are as impressive as the top sites in Samarkand or Bukhara in Uzbekistan.
Beyond the main palace rooms, the Maria de Padilla Bathrooms are simple but impressive with their water reflections. The Spanish part (Gothic Palace) has interesting Spanish tiles with a large Tapestries Hall with high-quality works including a unique map of Europe. Each of those tapestries must have taken decades of man-years and have cost a fortune back then.
Even the bathrooms are mesmerizing.
Second floor includes Cuarto Real Alto, the royal apartments. Unfortunately, they require separate tickets, which are sold out well in advance.
EUR13.50 entry ticket online in advance or at the ticket office on site (a long line likely in peak tourist months). Highly recommended.
Plaza de España
Hands down, one of the most elegant and beautiful plazas on this planet. Built on a semi-circle design with water elegantly embedded and high-quality workmanship. Arrive as early as possible (sunrise is nice here) as there will be crowds later on.
Also, venture inside the main center section and go up the stairs. Taking the Puerta de Navarra at the back is nice as well.
Free.
Cathedral de Sevilla
Spain has no shortage of magnificent churches and Cathedral de Sevilla is one of the best ones. Gothic design with intricate carvings, designed and constructed with a vision.
Do not miss the tomb of Christopher Columbus or the Bell Tower (“Giralda”) for the city views (34 floors but definitely worth it).
Tomb of Christopher Columbus on the right-hand side when entering the Seville Cathedral.
Hospital los Venerables
An unassuming entrance to a lovely serene place. Originally a place for the elderly priests, it has a lovely baroque church with some Velasquez paintings.
A welcome respite from the heat and bustle of the Seville old town outside and only a few minutes from the cathedral and its ever-present crowds.
EUR6 entry ticket, audio guide available and interesting.
Cordoba
Sevilla Plaza de Armas bus station – Cordoba bus station: EUR13, 2 hours. The Cordoba bus station is on the outskirts of the old town 30-40 minute walking distance. Easy and safe walk. ALSA buses were comfortable, punctual and with seat allocation.
Buy ticket online or at the ALSA cash machine at the bus station (cards and cash accepted). Arrive at least 15-20 minutes earlier as there probably will be a queue.
Cordoba train and bus stations are next to each other so easy to transfer.
Mezquita Cathedral de Cordoba
The Mezquita cathedral is the undisputed magnet for the tourists in Cordoba and probably the main reason for the visit. Originally a mosque, it has become a Christian church with some additions (pews in the middle). In any case, rows of the old Roman pillars supporting the Islamic arches are impressive and unforgettable.
The Islamic depiction of the heaven is magnificent and well preserved.
Seven heavens of the Islamic religion…… depicted by the subsequent gates.
Interesting guided tour. EUR11 cathedral entry ticket. Highly recommended. Best visited at the opening time when it is more tranquil and atmospheric with few tourists around.
Roman bridge
Constructed in the first century AD by the Romans and has served Cordoba over since, including the Game of Thrones movie set. Atmospheric at night, also from the opposite bridge.
Palacio de Viana
Renaissance palace with gardens and patios. A tranquil respite from the heat and crowds. 10am-7pm.
Granada
Cordoba bus station – Granada bus station ALSA bus: EUR16, 2 hours 45 minutes. Buy ticket online or at the ticket machine at the bus station (cards or cash accepted).
Granada bus station to city center: walkable 30-40 minutes through a park, straightforward and safe.
Alhambra
The justifiably undisputed magnet for tourists coming to southern Spain. The complex includes the Islamic Nasrid Palace, the Spanish palace, Generalife and the Alcazaba fortress.
The Islamic part is well preserved, although the original colors have unfortunately faded away. The scale and elegance of the design is magnificent. A subsequent walk in the gardens is excellent, especially in the spring or the fall.
EUR14 entry general entry ticket for all sites. Access to Nasrid Palaces is timed and strictly enforced. If you arrive early, you will wait in a queue until exactly your time. Your code or passport will be scanned to gain entry.
Other parts can be entered at any point during the opening times. Buy ticket online in advance, as availability might be short especially during the top tourist months. Official ticket site below:
La Cartuja (Monasterio de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción)
A lavish and tranquil Baroque monastery on the side 20 minutes walking distance away from the city center. The wealth in Spain must have been almost unquantifiable as such monasteries have been built without much apparent attention paid to expense.
Please do not miss the left section humbly called “the most beautiful sacristy in the world”. The Spanish religious paintings in the exhibition rooms on the right side are also interesting.
EUR6 entry ticket, 10am-6pm, few tourists, if any, as away from the main tourist center.
Albaicin walking tour
Albaicin has been traditionally an Arabic part of Granada. A (self-)guided walk takes at least two hours. Or considerably longer if you decide to make more stops, the whole area is atmospheric and more relaxed than in the tourist center below. Definitely climb the Saint Michael Viewpoint which is offering great views of Alhambra, the old town and further up to the mountains.
Walking around is nice, but sitting down for a coffee break in one of many squares is a great Granada experience.
Almost any cathedral, basilica, church or monastery
Again, the wealth in Granada (and Spain overall) must have been extreme, as the city has so many impressive religious buildings in the Granada city center. In addition, they are practically next to each other, with little space in between.
Catedral de Granada, Basilica de San Juan de Dios, Monasterio de San Jeronimo, or Santuario de Nuestra Señora del Perpetuo Socorro Granada are some of the excellent examples. After a few, they will probably all look a bit similar but still impressive.
Future Trips
Huelva, Cadiz, Jerez and Jaen plus the smaller cities of Baeza and Ubeda look interesting.
In addition to Andalusia, other tourists have recommended Segovia, Toledo, Avila, Salamanca and Valladolid.
Beyond this southern Spain itinerary, Samarkand or Bukhara in Uzbekistan also offer top Islamic architecture along the Silk Road. Granada, Seville and Cordoba have more detailed information.
If you are reading this, you are thinking (or already in the process of) visiting Egypt independently.
Travelling independently is usually more eye opening, authentic and direct than a tour. Even more so in Misr (Egypt in Arabic). Travelling around Egypt independently will definitely make a stronger impact on all your senses. You will meet some incredibly friendly and helpful Egyptians across the country. Street food is best. And you will see the local neighborhoods, villages and towns away from the standard tourist path.
As on any trip, the trade off is the flexibility and cost versus convenience. If you like it, you can stay at this temple or Sahara camp longer. If you do not like this city, you might even not stop here overnight but move on. We have to pay for this flexibility with more upfront research and speed. Being on a tour will probably be faster but potentially more superficial. Not to mention it will be much cheaper than taking the tours.
Strenuous
Now, to be absolutely honest, independent travel in Egypt will be challenging.
It will be more trying than Kyrgyzstan, Turkey, Jordan, Algeria, India or even Morocco. Some people will try to overcharge you, frequently put you on a camel or a boat, or accompany you to a restaurant or your hotel. However, please also remember that the unemployment rate is high and everybody has to feed their family.
Still independent travel in Egypt
Looking back, am I happy that I opted for the independent trip and all those difficulties and not a tour?
Absolutely yes.
Was it difficult at times?
Yes, it was.
Would I do it again independently?
Yes, definitely. This uncontrolled chaos with the stunning archeological sites and nature is pretty irresistible.
Aswan
Aswan was one of the my favorite places in Egypt. A more relaxed city located in a stunning location on the Nile and full of first-class archeological sites. Plus it is drivable to the impressive Abu Simbel described below.
Arrival
If you arrive on the train (highly recommended), you will come to the main Aswan station. It is clearly labelled and you will not miss it, as there will be many other passengers getting off as well.
Before you leave the station area, rehearse again your destination and your budget. Before you depart for Aswan, ask your hotel how much a taxi should be from the Aswan station. This is a standard question and each hotel will respond with a reasonable number. They might also offer to organize a taxi to pick you up. If you accept their price, it will save the negotiations at the station.
With all this in mind, follow everybody and exit the station building. As in all Egyptian stations, 10 drivers will immediately approach you asking where you are going or trying to help carry your bag(s). Do NOT let this happen as this decrease your negotiation position.
Your price plus 50%
Mention your destination and price. Given your number will be reasonable, some more aggressive drivers will turn away and look for easier prey. Fortunately, more sensible ones will approach you and most likely ask for your number plus 50%. In other words, you are already making progress. If you are firm, they will probably decrease it. Overall, the Aswan taxi drivers are much more friendly than their Luxor or Cairo cousins (I have not seen any ladies driving taxis there). A taxi ride 15 minutes away from the train station was EGP50.
With all this done, you will probably arrive in your hotel soon. On your way back you might even travel independently. The train station is located in the city center next to the main road along the Nile. There are many minibuses on this route for EGP2 one way. The long-distance bus station is about 7-10 minutes ride away.
In Aswan you will probably go to West Aswan for the small and nice Sarenput II tomb, St Simeon monastery, Aga Khan mausoleum and a nice desert walk.
West Aswan
Getting to West Aswan is straightforward. On the main promenade next to Nile, walk past McDonald’s and immediately afterwards on your left you will see steps down to the public ferry. You will pay EGP5 in cash to the gentleman at the table, no ticket issued.
Most probably you will see many people waiting with women sitting on the left and men on the right. The next ferry will probably arrive in up to 15 minutes. It is customary to let the women board first and take their seats at the back of the boat.
Amazingly, the whole boarding operation is impressively efficient with everybody in and seated within 60 seconds. The Nile will offer great views, especially around sunset, and, unfortunately, the ride will be over in 5 minutes.
Sarenput II, st simeon monastery and aga khan
Once you disembark, follow everybody on the path up, turn left to buy the EGP60 ticket for the Sarenput II tomb (highly recommended) in the booth. Look around the ruins, you will see some engravings still intact. The grave is to your left and I liked it a lot. Small but atmospheric and with colors well preserved. Most likely you will be there by yourself, which was the nicest part.
Afterwards you can visit the monastery of St Simeon and the Aga Khan mausoleum. To visit the mausoleum you will need a permit arranged before, which might take even a few weeks. I did not have it but even the views from there towards the Nile and Aswan were great.
The mud-and-stone St Simeon monastery was built in the 7th and rebuilt in the 10th century. Pretty ruined but atmospheric, a good guide explaining its history will be great. However, I liked the path to the monastery best – a serene Sahara experience. You can either walk or ride on a camel (approximately EGP50 depending on your negotiation skills). The entry ticket is EGP 40.
South Aswan
Many interesting things here. The Nubian Museum (9am – 5pm daily) is close to the main road and is excellent.
Right across is the Unfinished Obelisk in a quarry. Probably queen Hatshepsut ordered it but it cracked during its creation and was abandoned. Its size is gargantuan and shows the engineering ability of the ancient Egyptians. There is little beyond this cracked obelisk but the views are nice. Overall, a short but informative visit.
philae temple
Further down the road is Philae, one of the most impressive ancient temples in Egypt. Ancient Egyptians believed that Philae is the burying place of the god Osiris and one of the most revered places. Given its importance, it was mentioned by many ancient writers including famous Seneca and Pliny.
You can take a minibus south (EGP2, 60 minutes) and walk to the Marina Philae Temple, where you buy your entry ticket (EGP180). Then find a tourist group to share a boat or negotiate a boat to the temple just for yourself. You will probably pay around EGP 200. The Philae temple is stunning but the twenty-minute boat ride and the anticipation of getting there will be another memorable experience. You will probably need more than the standard one hour which is allocated by the boat operator. The temple is nice and the location stunning.
The temple has been relocated in 1974 under the UNESCO program before the construction of the Aswan High Dam. As a consequence, you will notice that the temple is not fully symmetric.
Abu Simbel
Abu Simbel is one of the top places to visit in Egypt. Its location on the Nile is impressive. The two temples cut out of the rock are unique on a global scale. Add the perfectly blue sky and it will be picture perfect.
However, it is 300 km (190 milies) south from Aswan. Most tourists arrive on a tour organized by all travel agencies and hotels in Aswan. I took the tour with the excellent Go Inn Backpackers for EGP400. Overall, arriving early in the morning is best as most tour buses will be coming in late morning and early afternoon.
So you will probably wake up pretty early (4am) for the four-hour drive (one way) to Abu Simbel. There is some good news though: (1) the road is straight and in good condition, so you can sleep most of the time, (2) if you decide to wake up, the sunrise over the Sahara sands is great, and (3) you will be back in Aswan by 2pm so still time to do more sight seeing.
Abu Simbel on the border with Nubia, one my favorites in all of Egypt.
Two Abu Simbel temples
Abu Simbel (entry ticket EGP275) has two temples: the Great Temple of Ramesses II (above) and the Small Temple of Hathor and Nefertari (Ramesses’ main wife, whose impressive tomb is in the Valley of the Queens in Luxor).
Unbelievably, the temple complex was constructed in about 20 years. Nowadays sometimes zoning or planning applications are taking almost that long.
The larger temple is dedicated to Ra-Horakhty, Ptah and Amun, Egypt’s three state deities of that time. There are also four large statues of Ramesses II in the facade. The statue to the left was damaged in an earthquake, causing the head and torso to fall down.
You will notice also some smaller statues at the bottom, none of them higher than Ramesses’ knees. The persons depict his main wife (Nefertari), mother, first two sons and first six daughters. In addition, there are various protecting gods and symbols of power.
Over the centuries, the site was completely buried in sand. The European explorer Giovanni Belzoni uncovered and excavated (or looted) Abu Simbel in 1817. The story has it that Abu Simbel is the name of the local boy, who showed the way to the site to Belzoni. So definitely not the ancient name of the temples.
The small temple has four statues of Ramesses and two of Nefertari. Queen’s prestige must have been extraordinary as her statue’s height is the same as pharaoph’s.
God among gods
The Abu Simbel site was sacred to the goddess Hathor already before the construction of the temples. To fortify his image and spread the message among his population, Ramesses is depicted as god among other gods.
The temples are also aligned with the east and, twice a year, the sun shines directly into the sanctuary of the Great Temple. It illuminates the statue of Ramesses and Amun, but not the god of the underworld sitting next to them. Amazing.
Inner sanctuary at the Great Temple in Abu Simbel.
Kom Ombo
I highly recommend seeing the temples on your ride from Aswan to Luxor: Kom Ombo and Edfu.
Minibus to Kom Ombo
They are easily visited by taking an Aswan-Kom Ombo minibus from the Aswan bus station to Kom Ombo (EGP15, $0.70, 1.5hr). To get to the bus station from Aswan center take the minibus along the Nile for EGP2 ($0.10, 10-15mins).
While approaching Kom Ombo, get off on the road next to the sign “Kom Ombo temple2km” on the left. A tuk tuk will be another EGP15 ($0.70) and take 5 minutes.
Going back to the Kom Ombo bus station will be EGP20 ($0.90, 15 minutes), it is further away so more expensive.
Overall, no need to take a pre-arranged tour with one of the tour companies charging $70-115 for the experience (or $165 with an English-speaking guide).
Also, you will probably hear that the only way to visit Kom Ombo or Edfu is by taking a Nile cruise boat. Of course, it is much more expensive and everybody wants to make a commission, which is understandable. However, the minibus approach was tested by truly yours in November 2022, and is probably alive and well when you are reading this.
Secondly, you might be sitting next to the driver who might speak fluent English. That Kom Ombo-Edfu one-hour conversation was one of the best I had on the entire Egypt trip.
Double Sobek and Horus temple
Kom Ombo is deserted, not fully reconstructed, with excellent engravings and in a great location overlooking the Nile. Some of the original colors are still preserved, especially the black eagles on the ceilings, upper entrance panels or some pillars. Finally, when I was there there were only two (2) other tourists and they left quickly.
Kom Ombo temple near Aswan. Well-preserved engravings and no tourists.
This shrine is unusual because it houses two temples dedicated to two different gods. The southern hall was dedicated to the crocodile god Sobek. You can see the engravings of this god having a human body and a crocodile head on the tall southern wall and also on the individual stones on the ground of the left hand side.
The northern part was dedicated to the falcon god Horus with many of his depictions. Archeologists have not agreed on the exact reason for the two deities worshipped here. One theory is that the evil god Sobek representing crocodiles threatening humans was paired with a gentler but powerful Horus.
In any case, after the temple visit please go down to the small but modern and interesting Crocodile Museum. There are interesting mummified crocodiles and their various sculptures.
Edfu
Amazing Edfu with few tourists at 2pm.
Edfu is another temple with an impressive well-preserved structure and one of my favorites. It is relatively young as it was “only” constructed between 237 and 57BC during the Greek Ptolemaic Kingdom. Unfortunately, some of the reliefs (especially of the Egyptian gods) have been damaged over the centuries. Archeologists believe that the early Christians started this destruction of the pagan reliefs.
Beyond that, fortunately, the temple is in a good condition because it was buried under desert sand and only excavated in the nineteenth century. Amazingly, local people have built their houses on top of the buried temple over the centuries. Imagine that standing in front of the 13m entrance pylons.
Inner sanctuary at the Edfu temple.
The Edfu temple was dedicated to the Egyptian god Horus who was worshipped as Apollo in the Hellenistic and Roman times. The same god Horus from the northern part of the Kom Ombo temple as well.
In terms of transportation, you can reach Edfu from the Kom Ombo bus station (EGP15, $0.70, 1 hr). From the Edfu bus station to the temple take a tuk tuk for EGP30 ($1.40) taking 15 minutes and crossing the Nile. You will see the tuk tuks in the middle of the station when arriving.
Walk with the gods
Tip: when standing in front of the sanctuary at the Edfu temple, turn right and follow the steps up. You will be walking in a small passage along the Egyptian gods, whole engravings are well preserved.
That was undoubtedly the intention of the ancient architects. Unfortunately, there is a locked gate at the top of the stairs. Getting up on the roof or a platform would be a nice final step of the journey as performed by two thousand years ago. And you can do it without any other tourists in complete silence. Amazing.
Walking up with ancient Egyptian gods. Amazing.
When back at the Edfu bus station, the final leg is to take a minibus to Luxor (EGP30, $1.40, 2 hours).
In summary of the transportation costs, a local minibus in Aswan or Luxor is EGP2 one way. Aswan-Kom Ombo takes approximately 1 hour and costs EGP15 ($0.70), Kom Ombo-Edfuagain 1 hour and EGP15. Edfu-Luxor takes 2 hours and costs EGP30 ($1.40). The whole trip will take at least 7-8 hours, leave Aswan early in the morning.
When leaving Luxor, one of the best options is to take a Go Bus. Modern large Mercedes buses with strong air conditioning and allocated seats. You can buy a ticket online or at their office to the left of the main train station. You will see their large yellow buses to the left when standing in front of the train station, a one-minute walk there. Wait for your bus inside with strong air conditioning and comfortable seats.
Luxor
Arrival
If you are arriving by plane, the Luxor airport is small and efficient. However, getting to your hotel or the train or bus station will require some negotiation again.
In the arrivals hall close to the exit door you will see a list of fixed prices to various destinations. Any destination within the Luxor city center should be EGP 80. However, when you exit through the glass door you will probably hear the initial quotes of EGP 200-400. The “fair” price for a non-Egyptian tourist is EGP100-130. Unfortunately, you will probably have to use your best negotiation skills to get to those numbers.
With this task accomplished, time for the amazing Luxor (or Thebes as it was known earlier). The ancient city of god Amun or Amun-Ra, has two separate areas to visit. The East Bank was dedicated to the worship. The West Bank was for the tombs and funerary temples (Theban Necropolis).
East Bank
The East bank consists of the vast Karnak and Luxor temples. The Karnak temple is best visited at sunrise, as the ancient Egyptian architects ensured an eastern orientation (the photo below is the Karnak temple at sunrise 6:30am).
If you are staying on the East bank, you can take a minibus (EGP2) and then walk for 15 minutes. Alternatively, you will have to negotiate with a taxi driver. Please ask at your hotel for the reasonable price from your location.
Alternatively, you can walk. Depending where you are staying, it will probably be a 30-60 minute hike to get to Karnak. If you arrive between 6 and 7am, you will not see any lines to the ticket office or many tourists in general.
Sunrise is the best time to witness the arrival of the sun god in the Luxor temple.
Hypostyle Hall in Karnak Temple at 6:30am.
Secondly, the ancient Egyptians skilfully built the entry gate conveying the daily arrival of the sun god Amun-Ra (below). Impressive.
Sun god arriving at the Karnak temple at sunrise.
For the sunset, please visit the Luxor temple, which will be almost glowing in the descending sun. As this temple is located closer to the East Bank center, you can walk there (15-30 minutes depending where you are staying).
West Bank
West bank includes the Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens, Temple of Queen Hatshepsut, Temple of Ramesses III at Medinet Habu, and the Valley of the Artisans. You will see the most elaborate tombs of the kings, smaller of their wives, and smaller still of the artisans decorating the main tombs.
The West Bank sites are well spread out. The options are (1) a day tour, (2) negotiate a taxi for a day, (3) negotiate a taxi in individual sites, or (4) bike. I took a good day tour from the Bob Marley hotel in the East Bank for EGP150.
Valley of the Kings
The Valley of the Kings is the burial place for the pharaophs from the New Kingdom of Egypt (18th-20th dynasties, constructed between 1539 and 1075 BC).
You can currently visit only 8 out of 60 tombs in the Valley of the Kings. Your entry ticket permits you to visit three of out those eight. There are three additional tombs, which you can visit for an additional fee (Ramesses V&VI, Seti I, Tutankhamun whose intact tomb was discovered by the British archeologist Howard Carter in 1922).
It is subjective to say but the tomb of Ramesses V and VI was my favorite. The sheer size and elegance is breathtaking. The engravings and colors are impressive.
Seti I is also stunning but carries a high additional fee (EGP 1,000). Tutankhamun’s tomb is famous. However, it is rather small given the pharaoph died at an early age, so he did not have not enough time to build a magnificent tomb on the level of Seti I or Ramesses V and VI.
In any case, you will not forget those monuments any time soon.
KAM Thai
When you are in Luxor try KAM Thai on the East Bank. After all that falafel and kebab, this clean and authentic small restaurant will be a treat. The cook is a lady from south Thailand and her food is delicious.
Dahab
Dahab is probably the most relaxed town in Egypt. Everything evolves around the beach, water sports and excellent diving and snorkelling. Many tourist hotels on the main road but also in the new city area (20 minutes walking distance from the center). Nobody will bother you much here.
As a tourist said in Dahab, “I am working really hard by doing nothing”. You will see young tourists from everywhere just hanging around and enjoying good life.
In other words, Dahab is similar to Cairns with its Great Barrier Reef in Australia, Gili Islands or Labuan Bajo in Indonesia, or Flores or Antigua in Guatemala.
The closest airport is the touristy Sharm el-Sheikh with its great Wizzair, Ryanair and Easyjet connections. You can take a daily GO Bus from Sharm’s bus station to Dahab ($7), a shuttle ($22-31) or a taxi (around $30-40 one way, 90 minutes).
A popular activity is a St Catherine mountain hike plus a visit to the monastery. You leave at 10pm, drive for two hours and hike for the sunrise. Afterwards you visit the monastery and drive back to Dahab with the arrival at 2pm. EGP450-600 for this standard itinerary. Please bring a windproof jacket, scarf and hat.
When in Dahab, try Yum Yum or King Falafel next to the main promenade. Both very good, many locals eating there as well, always a good sign.
MORE INFORMATION ABOUT EGYPT
Beyond this guide to Egypt independent travel, general information (visas, Covid-19 restrictions, when to visit, transportation, accommodation, food, etc.) is in Egypt.
Regardless of your destination, this Egypt independent travel guide guarantees those Arabic words will help on your trip:
sabah al-khayr: good morning
missah al-khayr: good evening
marhaba: hello
keefak: how are you? (what’s the news?)
shukran: thanks
la shukran: no, thanks
kwayees: good
mumtaz: excellent
miya: water
wahed: one
hamza: five
ashra: ten
ashrun: twenty
meah: hundred
WHERE TO GO NEXT
Beyond this Egypt independent travel guide, consider Algeria for an amazing Sahara trip around Djanet. Bonus: you are already in the neighborhood and there will be little tourist hassle.
For the ultimate remote location, fly to Easter Island with its enigmatic moai.
Another up and coming place is Uzbekistan and its stunning Silk Road cities of Samarkand and Bukhara. Combine it with mountains and lakes in Kyrgyzstan.
Lombok is a relatively small island. Even if you go to Senaru in the northern part next to the Mt Rinjani, it will take approximately 4-5 hours. No 8 or 10 hour journeys as in Flores or Sumbawa.
There are local minibuses (bemos) around but most tourists use the private taxis. You can either book it all for yourself or share with other passengers thus splitting the cost.
The prices below are what we managed to gather during our trip to Lombok. They were after the major hike in the gas price in September and October 2022. If the gas price goes down again, please check as they might be lower.
How to get good taxi and ferry prices in Lombok?
What are the main factors to get good prices?
(1) Your lack of time
If you are pressed for time, your options are limited. You will have no time to get a few quotes from the drivers and agencies. You will probably have to settle for a private car booked at your hotel, which will be more expensive at the last minute.
(2) Agency versus direct price
It is always cheaper and better to agree on the price with the driver, who will actually be in the vehicle with you. Even more preferably, it will be his own car. Two reasons: (1) Each agency and homestay is charging (sometimes a hefty 50-100%) commission. (2) You will be able to evaluate the car and the driver for their safety and reliability. A huge advantage as some cars might be a bit vintage. That is definitely not great when going up a mountain. Finally, it is generally easy to find direct drivers on Bali. Given their abundance, they will usually find you before you can spot them (“Hello, where are you going?” with a broad smile).
(3) Your accommodation
More expensive hotels/homestays will quote higher prices for the same service than the less expensive ones. Secondly, even when you are stopped on the street and asked if you need transportation, the drivers and agents will ALWAYS ask which hotel you are staying in. They will try to determine your ability to (over)pay. If you are lucky to be in one of the top accommodations on the island, it might be not the best time to mention that. Otherwise, it will be harder to get to a more fair cost.
(4) Driver’s price calculation
Our experience has been that drivers’ two biggest factors are distance and time traveled. The car brand or age seem to be less important as most of them are the similar (Toyota, Daihatsu). Also, if you want a one-way trip, the driver will add the distance and time for the trip back and charge it to you. All drivers are currently sensitive to the distance due to the higher gas prices. However, some are more relaxed about their own time and might quote a lower price.
(5) Driver’s experience
Some will also quote with hesitation and vastly different prices for the adjacent locations. That probably means that the driver has not had that many clients. More experienced driver usually deliver a realistic quote quickly without mentioning how many tourists they had driven around in the last week or month. More fluent English is also usually a sign of more tourist business.
(6) Driver’s personality
Finally, it always pays attention to driver’s behavior. You will be stuck with him for a few hours in a confined space, so it is better to have someone who is positive and conversational.
(7) Check Grab prices
Always check Grab prices as your benchmark. Grab is the equivalent of Uber or Lyft with a major difference. Contrary to their U.S. competitors, you can pay the Grab driver directly (similar to Yandex Go in central Asia). This has an advantage that anybody in your hotel, restaurant or even on the street can order a Grab taxi for you.
Secondly,when negotiating a price with a private taxi driver, just mentioning Grab’s price usually does wonders to establish a realistic price level.
There are two boat types on this route. We came on “FreebirdExpress Escape 99“: large, stable, no engine smells, departed on time, arrived on time, not crowded.
Direct price: IDR 300,000 per person one way. Agency price: IDR 500,000. Buy direct at the harborsin Amed, Gilis or Bangsal.
The other boat is supposedly smaller and more bumpy. We were also told cheaper at IDR 250,000 direct price (did not buy this ticket / not verified).
This Egypt itinerary article has the following sections below. There is some initial arrival information (why visit, safety if any areas are currently closed to tourists). Afterwards the itineraries based on your time available, airports and interests.
Overall, I think an optimal Egypt itinerary is based on three questions:
Your available time. This is obvious. 7, 10, 14, 21 or maybe even 28 days?
Your arrival and departure airport. The traditional Cairo in and Cairo out is not the only one approach. It is possibly not even the best connection. For the same price, you can fly to Egypt and have a free weekend in London or another major European city
Your interests. Beyond the historical sites, are you interested in diving or snorkelling? What about the desert trips? Do you want to go on a multi-day Nile cruise boat? How about a day on the Red Sea beach?
Based on your responses above, we will see a few different tailor-made itineraries.
Why Visit
First of all, out of approximately 195 countries in the world, why would you want to go to Egypt? There are many other interesting destinations in the neighborhood such as Jordan, Israel or Iran. Or Uzbekistan, Pakistan or India a bit further out eastwards. Alternatively, going south to Zimbabwe, Namibia or Tanzania sounds great as well.
However, Egypt has been on the traveller’s target list for hundred of years. For proof, read the graffiti on the ancient monuments in Abu Simbel or Luxor (a special mention to Monsieur Le Caros visiting Abu Simbel in 1875).
Pyramids&Company
And there are good reasons for tourists’ permanent interest. The archeological sites are world-class and have been a magnet for visitors from all around the planet.
Pyramids in Giza near Cairo. Temples and tombs in Luxor. More temples and tombs in the more-relaxed Aswan. The chaotic metropolis of Cairo, which usually inspires either love or hate (or both at the same time).
Less visited Sinai with the desert and St. Catherine’s monastery. Alexandria established by the founder of one of the biggest empires in the history of mankind (Alexander the Great). Siwa, Dakhla or another oasis for the ultimate Egyptian Sahara experience.
Balmy weather
Moreover, in the peak tourists season of October-February, the weather is awesome with 20-25C during the day and around 10-15C at night. Sunny, with little rain and no fog (hello, London).
Some Egyptians are truly nice, hospitable and ready to help, when met in a private setting. Those conversations were some of the highlights of my Egypt trip.
Unfortunately, in spite of the steady tourist flows, you will also encounter a significant hassle factor in Egypt. The unemployment rate here is high and everybody needs to feed their family. I tried to consider that as an additional price to pay for the impressive archeological sites and the balmy weather.
Now, if you are also concerned about crowds, this issue can be solved in Egypt. Most tours pursue the same itinerary focusing on the top must-see sites. Secondly, they usually visit in the same order every day. And they usually leave off lesser-known venues, which are just not in the top 5 in a marketing brochure.
No tourists at the impressive Edfu temple near Luxor.
When to Visit
October – February is the best. The day temperatures will be 20-30C, sunny and clear skies. December and January will be cooler, a hoodie or jacket required.
Due to the high temperature differences between day and night, please take both flip flops and a jacket and a scarf.
For Sahara camping, you will need hats, gloves and a warm sleeping bag as well.
At this time there will be many sun-starved tourists from Europe. But it is still better than basking in the 50C heat in July and August, when you would be recommended to drink at least six litres of water per day.
Safety
Sadly, Egypt has had safety and security issues, some also involving the foreign tourists. However, there are currently no highly-publicized safety accidents including visitors.
Secondly, I am not aware of any tourist sites closed off to tourists due to security reasons.
Overall, given the importance of the tourism economy, all corresponding areas are under strict and constant supervision. You will go through tens of police road checkpoints. Soldiers in full gear with guns will be watching you. You will see armored military vehicles with machine guns.
All this is normal.
In the more supervised areas (e.g., Sinai, close to Libya), your driver will leave your name and country, and his license plate in some checkpoints. You will be tracked while travelling, especially if at night. When at a checkpoint, a simple “hello” or “salam” (same in Arabic) to the border security is usually sufficient.
Also, your vehicle might be scanned also underneath on a special platform for any hidden cargo, for example in Sinai when approaching the Sharm el-Sheikh airport.
However, it feels all the controls are in place, but outside Sinai they are pretty lax. A whole minibus would be just waved in without any checks. Nobody ever looked at the trunk or checked luggage on my last trip to Egypt.
Probably a sign that things have been stable lately and no imminent threats are expected.
When going to the desert in Sinai, or the west or the south of the country, you will absolutely need a guide. Non-negotiable for many reasons.
You probably do not want to make history and news headlines for any wrong reasons.
Top 5 Things in Egypt
So after all this tougher introductory stuff, one of the nicest topics. Planning your next trip.
Overall, I think there are actually two separate Top 5 destinations in Egypt.
Traditional must sees
Firstly, those which you have to see because they simply have to be seen as so unique in the world. Pyramids in Giza near Cairo and Luxor with its temples and tombs are on this list.
True, Karnak in Luxor is vast and impressive, but severely ruined over the centuries.
Moreover, pyramids and Luxor will be congested and you will face a lot of hassle in those places. Everybody will want to take you on a tour or a boat. Put you on a camel, horse-drawn carriage or a sunset felucca. Or just sell you all the usual indispensable tourist t-shirts, necklaces or Nefertiti miniatures.
Excellent lesser known sites
Now, once you ticked off all those must-see destinations above, you might do what you really want to do. Go to some amazing temples outside of Luxor. They are in a good condition, less damaged over the centuries, and with almost no tourists. Also, given there are fewer visitors, there are also not as many hawkers. Abu Simbel, Kom Ombo, Edfu, Dendera and Abydos temples are excellent examples. In addition, some are located in stunning locations on the Nile. Finally, when driving to Abu Simbel, the Sahara views are already great.
So having said all this, the top 5 on any Egypt itinerary
(1) Aswan in the south of the country as a spring board for Abu Simbel and the adjacent temples of Philae,Kom Ombo or Edfu
(2) Sinai for a different desert experience, diving in Dahab and a visit to Saint Catherine’s Monastery
(3) Luxor with its Karnak and Luxor temples on the East Bank, and Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens and temples on the West Bank
Inner sacred chamber.
(4) Pyramids in Giza
(5) Sahara oasis (e.g., Dakhla, Siwa)
Four chunks of Egypt
So how to fix your itinerary?
First of all, let’s look at the map of all those major tourist sites in Misr (Egypt in Arabic). All tours and independent visitors are covering all or some of those.
Egypt itinerary 2-3 weeks.
Based on the map, we can separate four major blocks:
(1) Sinai (Sharm el-Sheikh, Dahab, St Catherine’s monastery)
(2) Must sees in the middle (pyramids in Cairo, Luxor temples and tombs)
(3) Additional great lesser known in the south (Aswan, Abu Simbel)
(4) Optional north (Alexandria, Siwa Oasis)
(1) Sinai is an add-on to the must sees (2) and (3)
Sinai is totally different from the rest of Egypt.
That’s the place to experience some of the best diving and snorkelling in the world. Secondly, there is an important cultural and religious St Catherine’s monastery. According to Judaism, Christianity and Islam, Moses received the Ten Commandments on this mountain. Consequently, the Orthodox tradition continues at the impressive St Catherine’s monastery. Finally, climbing the mountain for the sunrise is excellent.
Also, Dahab in Sinai is probably the most relaxed tourist town in all of Egypt, where nobody will bother you much. This, by itself, is already a big advantage.
(2) Must sees of the Giza pyramids, and Luxor temples and tombs
A cornerstone of all Egypt itineraries and should not be skipped. Impressive and unique on a global scale.
They will be crowded and you will experience some aggressive hawkers, but they are simply too grand to omit from any itinerary.
(3) Additional great but lesser known sites around Aswan
In short, they are impressive. The south with Aswan, Abu Simbel and the adjacent temples (e.g., Kom Ombo, Edfu) is absolutely amazing. Great sites set in stunning locations. Yes, some of them were rebuilt but demonstrate the architectural, engineering and artistic prowess of the ancient Egyptians. Moreover, fewer tourists means fewer hawkers and less hassle.
In comparison, for example, the Karnak temple is vast and impressive. However, it has been plundered and ruined over the centuries a lot. In the south you can see some reconstructed temples (e.g., Edfu, Philae). They convey the scale and feeling of the original buildings.
This was my favorite area on my trip. And this is the place I want to return, not sure about Cairo again.
(4) The optional north (Alexandria, Siwa Oasis)
Interesting but time consuming. It takes 9-12 hours on a (night) bus from Cairo to Siwa Oasis. The oasis is allegedly great but those are a minimum of two nights on the bus. You would probably stay there at least two nights, so 4 nights / 5 days total. If you have two weeks for your Egypt trip, probably skip it.
Having said that, I do want to visit on the next trip as all the main sites are done.
Cairo or regional airport?
Your arrival and departure airports will play a major role in fixing your itinerary.
Fortunately, you have a choice of airports in Egypt. You can land in Cairo, the largest and the traditional arrival for long-distance flights on, for example, Egyptair.
Cheap flights from Europe
However, you can do something different. It will be probably cheaper and offer a free weekend in London or another major European city. The European budget airlines (e.g., Wizzair and Easyjet) are flying to the beach towns of Sharm el-Sheikh, Hurghada and Marsa Alam.
Sharm is in the south of Sinai. Hurghada and Marsa Alam are close to Luxor and Aswan.
With some planning and luck, you can buy flights from London for £20-50 one way.
Alternatively, you can fly from London to Cairo and Luxor-London open jaw with Egyptair for £400-600. A pretty big difference.
Free weekend in London
In other words, if coming from America or Asia, it is cheaper to fly to and spend a weekend in London. Then hop on a budget Wizzair or Easyjet flight from London Gatwick or Luton. And who doesn’t like a free weekend in London?
If you want the major archeological sites, fly to Hurghada or Marsa Alam. From there it is a four-hour Go Bus ride to Luxor. If you want some time on the beach, do it at the start or end of your trip in one of those.
Alternatively, if you want to dive or snorkel in the Red Sea around Dahab, visit St Catherine’s in Sinai or stay on the beach, fly into Sharm el-Sheikh. From Sharm you can take a Sharm el-Sheikh to Hurghada ferry daily for $60 one way. Alternatively, you can fly directly to Luxor on AirCairo for a similar price (one hour flying time).
Having covered the airports, let’s see some itineraries depending on how much time you have.
Egypt itinerary 7 days
This itinerary is based on the top 5 sites in Egypt. Let’s start at the shortest traditional 7-8 day trip with the sites covered by all tour companies.
It covers the must sees of the pyramids near Cairo with Luxor temples and tombs, and more temples in Aswan.
If taking domestic Cairo-Luxor or Cairo-Aswan flights, you could even theoretically squeeze Abu Simbel in as well.
2 days in Cairo
The individual breakdown would be 2 days in Cairo. You will be busy seeing the three main pyramids, the Sphinx, and the Egyptian Museum. Potentially seeing also the additional sites as well.
2 days in Aswan
2 days in Aswan including the West Aswan with the tomb of Sirenput II, the St Simeon monastery and the Aga Khan mausoleum.
In the south you will probably go to the impressive Philae temple. Afterwards many people like a felucca sunset cruise, the Nile is stunning pretty much everywhere here.
abu simbel
The next day you will probably wake up pretty early (4am) for the four-hour drive (one way) to Abu Simbel. There is some good news though: (1) the road is straight and in good condition, so you can sleep most of the time, (2) if you decide to wake up, the sunrise over the Sahara sands is great, and (3) you will be back in Aswan by 2pm so still time to do more sight seeing.
Abu Simbel on the border with Nubia, one my favorites in all of Egypt.
Two Abu Simbel temples
Abu Simbel has two temples: the Great Temple of Ramesses II (above) and the Small Temple of Hathor and Nefertari (Ramesses’ main wife, whose impressive tomb is in the Valley of the Queens in Luxor).
Unbelievably, the temple complex was constructed in about 20 years. Nowadays sometimes zoning or planning applications are taking almost that long.
The larger temple is dedicated to Ra-Horakhty, Ptah and Amun, Egypt’s three state deities of that time. There are also four large statues of Ramesses II in the facade. The statue to the left was damaged in an earthquake, causing the head and torso to fall down.
You will notice also some smaller statues at the bottom, none of them higher than Ramesses’ knees. The persons depict his main wife (Nefertari), mother, first two sons and first six daughters. In addition, there are various protecting gods and symbols of power.
Over the centuries, the site was completely buried in sand. The European explorer Giovanni Belzoni uncovered and excavated (or looted) Abu Simbel in 1817. The story has it that Abu Simbel is the name of the local boy, who showed the way to the site to Belzoni. So definitely not the ancient name of the temples.
The small temple has four statues of Ramesses and two of Nefertari. Queen’s prestige must have been extraordinary as her statue’s height is the same as pharaoph’s.
God among gods
The Abu Simbel site was sacred to the goddess Hathor already before the construction of the temples. To fortify his image and spread the message among his population, Ramesses is depicted as god among other gods.
The temples are also aligned with the east and, twice a year, the sun shines directly into the sanctuary of the Great Temple. It illuminates the statue of Ramesses and Amun, but not the god of the underworld sitting next to them. Amazing.
Inner sanctuary at the Great Temple in Abu Simbel.
2 days in Luxor
Luxor (or Thebes as it was known earlier), the ancient city of god Amun or Amun-Ra, has two separate areas to visit. The East Bank was dedicated to the worship. The West Bank was for the tombs and funerary temples (Theban Necropolis).
east bank
The East bank consists of the vast Karnak and Luxor temples. The Karnak temple is best visited at sunrise, as the ancient Egyptian architects ensured an eastern orientation (the top photo is the Karnak temple at sunrise 6:30am).
Secondly, they skilfully built the entry gate conveying the arrival of the sun god Amun-Ra (below). Impressive.
Approaching Karnak temple at sunrise.
For the sunset, please visit the Luxor temple, which will be almost glowing in the descending sun.
west bank
West bank includes the Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens, Temple of Queen Hatshepsut, Temple of Ramesses III at Medinet Habu, and the Valley of the Artisans. You will see the most elaborate tombs of the kings, smaller of their wives, and smaller still of the artisans decorating the main tombs.
The Valley of the Kings is the burial place for the pharaophs from the New Kingdom of Egypt (18th-20th dynasties, constructed between 1539 and 1075 BC).
You can currently visit only 8 out of 60 tombs in the Valley of the Kings. Your entry ticket permits you to visit three of out those eight. There are three additional tombs, which you can visit for an additional fee (Ramesses V&VI, Seti I, Tutankhamun whose intact tomb was discovered by the British archeologist Howard Carter in 1922).
It is subjective to say but the tomb of Ramesses V and VI was my favorite. The sheer size and elegance is breathtaking. The engravings and colors are impressive.
Seti I is also stunning but carries a high additional fee (EGP1000). Tutankhamun’s tomb is famous. However, it is rather small given the pharaoph died at an early age, so he did not have not enough time to build a magnificent tomb on the level of Seti I or Ramesses V and VI.
In any case, you will not forget those monuments any time soon.
7 day mad rush
Overall, this seven-day itinerary would be mad rush just skimming the surface of those amazing places. You would also miss some of the lesser known but excellent temples between Aswan and Luxor.
If you have a few days more, your Egypt itinerary will be more relaxed but more insightful and enjoyable at the same time.
Egypt itinerary 10 days
Egypt 10 day itinerary.
With 2-3 additional days you can spend more quality time in Luxor.
Secondly, you can enjoy a train ride along the Nile, which I liked a lot. Lush fields, great river views, and village life.
Kom Ombo and Edfu
Thirdly, I highly recommend visiting the temples on your ride from Aswan to Luxor. They are easily visited by taking an Aswan-Kom Ombo minibus from the Aswan bus station to Kom Ombo (EGP15, $0.70, 1.5hr). Get off on the road next to the sign “Kom Ombo temple 2km”. A tuk tuk will be another EGP15 ($0.70) and take 5 minutes. Going back to the Kom Ombo bus station will be EGP20 ($0.90, 15 minutes).
Overall, no need to take a pre-arranged tour with one of the tour companies charging $70-115 for the experience (or $165 with an English-speaking guide).
Also, you will probably hear that the only way to visit Kom Ombo or Edfu is by taking a Nile cruise boat. Of course, it is much more expensive and everybody wants to make a commission, which is understandable. However, the minibus approach was tested by truly yours in November 2022, and is probably alive and well when you are reading this.
Secondly, you might be sitting next to the driver who might speak fluent English. That Kom Ombo-Edfu one-hour conversation was one of the best I had on the entire Egypt trip.
Kom Ombo is deserted, not fully reconstructed, with excellent engravings and in a great location overlooking the Nile.
Kom Ombo temple near Aswan. Well-preserved engravings and no tourists.
edfu
Edfu is reconstructed with an impressive structure. Unfortunately, some of the reliefs (especially of the Egyptian gods) have been damaged over the centuries.
You can reach Edfu from the Kom Ombo bus station (EGP15, $0.70, 1 hr). From the Edfu bus station to the temple take a tuk tuk for EGP30 ($1.40) taking 15 minutes and crossing the Nile.
Tip: when standing in front of the sanctuary at the Edfu temple, turn right and follow the steps up. You will be walking in a small passage along the Egyptian gods, whole engravings are well preserved.
That was undoubtedly the intention of the ancient architects. Unfortunately, there is a locked gate at the top of the stairs. Getting up on the roof or a platform would be nice.
When back at the Edfu bus station, the final leg is to take a minibus to Luxor (EGP30, $1.40, 2 hours).
Amazing Edfu with few tourists at 2pm.
Esna and Dendera are some additional interesting sites. Dendera and Abydos require a full day trip from Luxor though.
Diving, beach or desert extensions?
Beyond this core itinerary, there are a few extensions possible based on your other interests.
Conveniently, the diving/snorkelling and beach extensions are where the European budget airlines (e.g., Ryanair, Wizzair) are arriving. You can take advantage of those low fares and start or finish your Egypt trip in Sharm el-Sheikh, Hurghada or Marsa Alam.
Diving or snorkelling
If you want to dive or snorkel on your trip, Egypt is the right place to do it. They are excellent in the Red Sea with the abundant marine life and good wrecks.
Broadly speaking, you can do it either on the western shore of the Red Sea or in the Sinai peninsula.
SINAI
In Sinai, you will probably want to go to Sharm el-Sheikh, Dahab or Ras Mohamed. I prefer Dahab, because it is less crowded and there is almost no hassle there. Nobody bothers you with tours or dives, and leaves you alone. In addition, the Blue Hole there is pretty cool. This 300 feet deep submarine sinkhole is impressive.
Sharm el-Sheikh has 30 great dive spots, but it will be pretty crowded and touristy. Also, expect the usual hawkers waiting for you pretty much everywhere.
MAINLAND
On the western side of the Egyptian mainland, good spots are Hurghada or Marsa Alama. Unfortunately, they are both similar to Sharm el-Sheikh. Busy, crowded and touristy with fewer good wrecks. However, they are closer to Luxor and Aswan than Sinai (unless you take a one-hour AirCairo flight from Sharm el-Sheikh to Luxor for about $50).
El Quseir, Ras Gharib or Safaga are other good but smaller places on the mainland.
Beach
The main beach resorts are the juggernauts of Sharm el-Sheikh, Hurghada and Marsa Alam. Hundreds of (all inclusive) hotels, tourist bars and restaurants, night markets for spices, and inexpensive copies of some brands.
A bit similar to Antalya or Bodrum in Turkey. If this is your thing, you will have a good time in any of those.
Alternatively, any small town or village on the shore would be nice. Sure, there will be less tourist infrastructure, but they will be more quiet and authentic.
Desert trips
Unfortunately, I did not manage to go to one of the desert oasis on my last trip. However, I heard other tourists raving about the Siwa oasis. Remote, floating ponds, authentic. I have read that 30,000 tourists visit Siwa, so it seems the word got out a long time ago.
Reachable by bus from Alexandria or Cairo. Unfortunately, it is an approximately ten-hour ride, which can be also done overnight.
Beyond Siwa, other oasis include Bahariya, and Fayoum, or Farafra, Dakhla, and Kharga. Bahariya and Fayoum are closer to Cairo (Bahariya: 360 kms), whereas Farafra, Dakhla and Kharga are further south.
Bahariya is close to the White Desert, which looks awesome on photos. Farafra‘s pictures look a bit like Djanet in Algeria, but on a smaller scale. Close nearby is Dakhla, which looks like an ancient town among the palms in the desert.
Fayoum has been called “the garden of Egypt”with a large Lake Qarun. Crowded with visitors from Cairo during weekends, allegedly quiet during the weekdays.
Egypt itinerary 14-21 days
Finally, we could add to the 10 day itinerary the following: Sinai or the north with Alexandria and Siwa oasis.
Transportation
Having fixed our itinerary, once in Egypt, how to get around this huge country?
Overall, there are good transport options with flight, trains, long-distance buses and minibuses. Taxis, minibuses and tuk-tuk available for shorter distances.
Fly, if possible
Egypt is a vast country. Secondly, its main tourist sites are spread out. Giza pyramids to Luxor temples is a day (or night) train, or a long-distance bus away. Luxor to Aswan takes approximately 4 hours one way. Aswan to Abu Simbel another 4 hours one way. Cairo to Siwa oasis in the western Sahara, 9-12 hours on the bus. Dahab to Cairo: 10-12 hours by bus.
Taking one or two of those is usually no problem. However, constant travelling across those distances is exhausting. If possible, take a domestic flight. It might be not more expensive if you incorporate the additional hotels and extra days lost. For example, AirCairo has one direct flight per day connecting Sharm el-Sheikh and Luxor. 60 minutes on an ATR turboprop will save this 10 hour bus ride to Cairo and then another 10 hours to Luxor. Depending on when you book, you can buy this one-way flight for $35-80.
Second option: trains
Trains take approximately the same time as buses or series of minibuses, but are more comfortable. Bear in mind, the Egyptian railways cannot boast the same punctuality record as some of their cousins in Europe, and not to mention Japan. It is not unusual for a train to be 30-90 minutes late.
However, the solution is straightforward: the previous train is probably also late. Therefore, it turned out I was travelling from Luxor to Aswan on the previous train. It departed around the time my original train was supposed to.
Secondly, there are a few types of trains in Egypt. Ordinary, which tourists are not encouraged to take. “Spanish trains” are more spacious but look relatively vintage of the 1980s variety. However, for their advanced age they are still pretty agile and comfortable. Just do not expect a Spanish Talgo train as in Uzbekistan, as I had mistakingly done.
Moreover, they are inexpensive. Luxor-Aswan costs approximately EGP70-90 ($3.20-$4) depending on the train.
Finally, the Egyptian railways has a good and intuitive website with a well-designed schedule information and an English option. Their website is:
Long-distance buses. Go Bus has many connections and is usually preferred by tourists. Blue Bus is another ok option. Good news that the tourist and local prices are usually the same. Buy a ticket in advance in the office or online to avoid any issues later. Please note some drivers demand an EGP 5-10 fee to load a piece of luggage.
Also, buses offer a pretty reasonable pricing in comparison with taxis as well. You will pay EGP200 for one way ride with Go Bus from Luxor to Hurghada, which takes 4-5 hours. Even after negotiations, a taxi would be multiple of that.
Minibus. They are everywhere and will take you everywhere (if not this one alone, maybe another two or three). Usually the same price for tourists and locals. However, agree the price with the driver before the journey starts. Otherwise, you might be surprised to have to pay a higher price than the local passengers (my experience on my first minibus trip). Secondly, paying in exact change to get the agreed-upon price is always a good idea.
And they are inexpensive. A local minibus in Aswan or Luxor is EGP2 one way. Aswan-Kom Ombo takes approximately 1 hour and costs EGP15 ($0.70), Kom Ombo-Edfu again 1 hour and EGP15. Edfu-Luxor takes 2 hours and costs EGP30 ($1.40).
Taxis: expensive lesson in negotiation skills
Taxis. After the 2022 gas price increases, not a bargain anymore. Sharm el-Sheikh to Dahab one way is $35-40. Dahab to St Catherine’s monastery return with one hour at the destination is $70. Warning: as per the Hassle section, taxi drivers will try to charge you significantly more than the local prices.
Some good tours
Tours. Usually expensive and geared towards tourists. Many Egyptian companies are offering daily or multi-day tours. Pricing depends on the number of passengers.
Overall, I think they are relatively expensive and not unique, as all tours and independent travellers are covering the same itinerary and places.
Having said that, I can see their value in times of instability when safety issues exist. Staying in your minibus or car. Travelling in a convoy of similar tours.
But, luckily, 2022 is not like that. Again, the country feels safe and there is no need for this additional protection. My perception has been that all tourists, no matter where you come from, are welcome.
However, there are some excellent and reasonably priced local tours as well. For example, Gandhi at the excellent Go Inn Backpackers in Aswan is organizing a daily trip to Abu Simbel for EGP400. You will be travelling in a modern, clean and punctual Toyota minibus with other tourists from China, Americas, Australia, New Zealand and Europe. The main Egyptian tour companies would easily charge you three or five times that.
Also, the always helpful Omar at the Bob Marley hotel in Luxor is organizing good Luxor West Bank tours for EGP150 per person.
Costs
Tours vs independent (this Egypt itinerary favorite topic)
There are two alternatives, and the choice is yours.
If you use tourist higher-end hotels and pre-arranged tours, your trip will be relatively expensive.
If you are using local transportation, local restaurants and mid-range tourist hotels, your trip will be unbelievably good value.
As an example, you can visit the amazing Edfu and Kom Ombo temples on your way from Aswan to Luxor within 8-9 hours. You would pay $70-110 with an Egyptian tour agency, excluding the entrance tickets and the inevitable tips (“backsheesh”) for the driver. One even quoted $165 but let’s assume it was an outlier.
Or you organize the trip yourself. You travel on the local Toyota minibuses or a train, and get tuk-tuks to the temples. And you pay approximately $8 for the same but more colorful experience.
Entry tickets
The entry tickets to the individual temples or tombs have increased a lot recently. All the examples below are as of November 2022.
The cheapest one I paid was EGP60 ($2.70) to the tomb of Sirenput II in west Aswan. Kom Ombo is EGP160 ($7.30). Edfu EGP200 ($9.10). Abu Simbel EGP275 ($12.50). Karnak EGP220 ($10). Luxor temple EGP220 ($10).
Cairo pass $100. Luxor Pass $100 again. Premium Luxor Pass (Luxor Pass + tombs of Seti I and Nefertari) $200.
Passes are valid for 5 days.
If you are going to visit all sites in Luxor, the Luxor Pass or the Premium Luxor Pass are worth it. I did not, and opted for the individual tickets.
MORE INFORMATION ABOUT EGYPT
Beyond this Egypt itinerary, an overall introduction or travel guide is below. In addition, the perennial question if Egypt is safe.
Wherever you go, those Arabic words will help on any Egypt itinerary. They will break barriers, demonstrate your interest in the local culture, and might even reduce your next taxi price.
sabah al-khayr: good morning
missah al-khayr: good evening
marhaba: hello
keefak: how are you? (what’s the news?)
shukran: thanks
la shukran: no, thanks
kwayees: good
mumtaz: excellent
miya: water
wahed: one
hamza: five
ashra: ten
ashrun: twenty
meah: hundred
WHERE TO GO NEXT
Beyond this Egypt itinerary, consider Algeria for an amazing Sahara trip around Djanet. Bonus: no tourist hassle and in the neighborhood.
For the ultimate remote location, fly to Easter Island with its enigmatic moai.
Another up and coming place is Uzbekistan and its stunning Silk Road cities of Samarkand and Bukhara. Combine it with mountains and lakes in Kyrgyzstan.
