Djanet

This Djanet travel guide describes a popular Sahara trip in southern Algeria starting in Djanet. It has the following sections:

• Why Visit
• When to Go
• Safety
• Which Tour
• Itinerary
• Northern Loop
• Southern Loop
• Typical Day
• What to Take

Why Visit

If you like nature, and desert in particular, Sahara is one of the best. It is the largest hot desert in the world with 9.2 million square km or 3.6 million square miles. It is only smaller than the ice deserts of Antartica and the northern Arctic.

There are many types of deserts and everybody has their favorites. My top ones are Sahara, Atacama (Chile) and Kalahari (Botswana, Namibia, South Africa). Gobi in Mongolia and the Patagonian desert are still on the list, plus, of course, Antartica and Arctic. One day, as they say.

Sahara is huge

Overall, Sahara has it all. It covers parts of Algeria, Chad, Egypt, Libya, Mali, Mauritania, Morocco, Niger, Western Sahara, Sudan and Tunisia. Incredibly, it covers 25% of Africa’s landmass.

To put it in a perspective. 9.2 million square km is difficult to process, at least for me. The United Kingdom has 243,610 square km so it would fit into Sahara 38.6 times. Three Australias would get in there easily (Down Under is about 2.97 million square km).

Also, Sahara is almost as big as the United States or China.

In addition, we usually think about the Sahara as the vast amounts of tiny yellow sand. However, it is only one desert type. Sahara has sand seas, sand dunes, gravel plains, stone plateaus, dry valleys, salt flats, mountains, rivers, streams and oases.

Contrary to the sand seas in Morocco or Egypt, southern Algeria also has mountains, stone formations, dry valleys and oasis as well. And all within a drive from Djanet or Tamanrasset, a four-hour flight from Algiers, the capital of Algeria.

So where to go?

Tadrart around Djanet is considered one of the most beautiful deserts in the world. However, some prefer Assekrem around Tamanrasset, which is close nearby. In any case, they are both stunning.

When to Go

October to March are best as the summer is scorchingly hot. This Djanet travel guide recommends mid-October to November or mid-January to February.

Bear in mind this is a desert, which heats up during the sunshine quickly but drops at least 10-20 degrees Celsius during nights. In the coldest months of December and January the temperature at night may drop to freezing.

So you might be planning the New Year’s Eve without any crowds. Most likely, you will see no other soul when you are there that night. And when you are in the largest sand ballroom in the world, do not forget your gloves, hats, scarves and multi-layer clothing. Plus a good sleeping bag.

Do not make our mistake, it was utterly cold at night. But the days were perfect with 20-25C and sunny. And the evening fireplace with hot Tuareg tea and interesting conversations were awesome.

On your return flight you will probably still smell of that fireplace (as we did), but that only adds to the uniqueness of the place (as a fellow passenger on the plane told us politely).

Finally, if you can time it and arrive during full moon, this will make the trip even more impressive. A proverbial million shades of shade when you go to your tent.

Safety

Extremely important.

Before you depart for Djanet or Tamanrasset, please double check the safety and security situation.

As of November 2022, you are fine in travelling to Djanet and doing the itinerary below, including the stunning Tadrart.

However, Tamarasset is largely closed. You can only do day tours, and reportedly only on Wednesday and Sundays. And you have to have a military escort.

We did have a military companion with a real gun on earlier trips in Uganda or Egypt. Initially it felt exciting and a bit of an Indiana Jones experience. But longer term you feel more constrained and the early coolness factor disappears pretty quickly.

In any case, those regulations and the military escorts are here for a reason. Sahara around Tamanrasset is huge and has been a source of security accidents for years.

Finally, needless to say, you are not allowed to drive independently either around Djanet or Tamanrasset.

Which Tour?

So the next question is how to organize a tour. You have two main options.

(1) Book through a tourist company at home

You can book a tour at home before your departure. It will likely come with a specialist tourist company at home, which in turn will have a local company in Algeria. Most likely, the Algerian tourist office will in turn have a local Tuareg company or guide, who will, at the end, do the tour with you.

In other words, there are two intermediaries before you meet your polite Tuareg guide in Djanet. Ease of booking, a nicely formatted itinerary from your local advisor in America, China or Europe, and a (potential) peace of mind will come at a hefty markup.

Secondly, you will have little influence on the choice of your Berber company and guide.

(2) Book directly with a local Djanet company (this Djanet travel guide’s favorite)

The alternative is to search and contact some local companies. See their response time. Evaluate the quality and seriousness of their offer. Read their reviews. Everybody in the tourist industry seems to have a rating nowadays, even in the middle of Sahara.

Of course, mistakes are bound to happen. However, you will have a greater control over the choice of your guide, itinerary and any special requests. The guide business in Djanet (and everywhere else) is based on ratings and reviews. Your guide will be fully aware of that and will try to deliver the best possible experience for you. In addition to his traditional Tuareg hospitality.

Yes, we had made some serious mistakes while booking directly over the years. But they were few, and we learned a lot from them.

On balance, however, we definitely prefer the direct booking.

And on our Djanet trip we got very lucky. Our main guide was an older Tuareg gentleman with lots of experience, polite and with excellent French. Our junior guide was fluent in English and a great storyteller at the fireplace.

This Djanet travel guide highly recommends supporting local businesses and contributing to the local economy (same as on all our trips). You will see the huge difference your tourist dollars, euros or pounds will make to Djanet and the Tuareg families living there.

Itinerary

So what are the itinerary choices?

Most tours starting in Djanet follow a similar path. There are two loops: the shorter northern one with Timghas, Tassili N’Ajjer, Essendilene Canyon, and Erg Admer.

The southern loop is longer and even more impressive, as it will include the large dunes at Tin Merzouga, Berdj Arch and the instagramable Tadrart.

Tegharghart can be done on either as it is close to Djanet.

Depending on how much time you have, you can do both or only one of the loops. For a 2-3 day trip you will probably go to the north, which will be great.

If you have 5-6 days, you will probably go south to Tadrart, which will be even more impressive.

Best of all, do both if your time allows.

Needless to say, all tours are flexible and your guide will adjust the itinerary to your time and personal interests.

Finally, there is also an option to walk with the camels from Essendilene to Djanet, but we did not do it.

Northern Loop

Day 1: Djanet, Timghas and Tassili N’Ajjer

Starting in the oasis of Djanet, a long drive through Timghas to Tassili N’Ajjer. Tassilli N’Ajjer is awesome with rock formations size of a building in every direction. Together with the sand they are changing color at sunset guaranteeing excellent photos.

Day 2: Tassili N’Ajjer, Essendilene Canyon and Erg Admer

The sacred canyon of the Tuaregs, Essendilene. You will probably walk through that. An easy hike taking approximately 40 minutes one way.

Overnight around the dunes in Erg Admer.

Day 3: Erg Admer, Tegharghart and Djanet

Driving back to Djanet with Tigharghart on the way. It is a rock of the “crying cows”. If you look closely, they do show cows which might really be crying.

Southern Loop (this Djanet travel guide’s favorite)

Day 1: Tadrart: El Berdj Canyon

A long 200km drive to El Berdj. Overnight around those stunning stone formations.

Day 2: Tadrart: Moul’n’Aga

More stone structures with prehistoric drawings. Arriving in Wan Tabaraket with its imposing dunes. If you climb one of them, you will have an impressive view. Finally, you will get to Moul’n’Aga with more dunes, which you can scale up for the sunset.

Day 3: Tadrart: In Intihaq

Today you will see many amazing rock formations. A bit like Utah or Arizona, but on a larger scale. Arches of Tamezguida, Wan Izzawaten valley and the photogenic Inlagen arch.

Day 4: Tin Merzouga (this Djanet travel guide top place)

The previous days have been stunning. Unbelievably, Tin Merzouga will probably be even better. The “Circle” canyon and moon-like Bouhediene and Tin Merzouga views are stunning. You will have a chance to climb the dunes, about 90 minutes hike.

This is the creme de la creme of your tour. A long drive there but so worth it.

Day 5: Indjaren Canyon

After this peak, you will start driving back to Djanet through Bouhediene and its canyons, rocks and dunes. More rock drawings in the Indjaren canyon. Interestingly, there are amonites and trylobites imprints here, which suggests that there was a sea over here.

Day 6: Tegharghart, Djanet

Driving back to Djanet with Tigharghart on the way. It is a rock of the “crying cows” (same as in Day 3 in the northern loop). If you look closely, they do show cows which might be crying.

Typical Day

You will be woken up around 7am, if you are not up by yourself to witness the sunrise. No matter the location, it is always picturesque with all the rock formations and dunes in any direction changing colors.

After breakfast and packing you will leave around 8-8:30am and drive for 4-5 hours making stops on the the way. Lunch and sjesta until around 3pm (yes, this dune climbing will burn lots of calories).

More driving until about 5pm where your new camp is being set up. Dinner and the atmospheric fireplace with Tuareg tea and stories afterwards. All this unpolluted fresh air is pretty exhausting, so you will probably fall asleep shortly afterwards without any problems.

The longest distance to Tin Merzouga is about 300km. You never drive when dark.

You will sleep in a tent provided by your guide. In colder months you will also get blankets and potentially a mattress.

Unlimited water from the water cooler. All meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner) are also included. They will be simple (e.g., some packaged naan bread with eggs and jam for breakfast, couscous with vegetables at dinner), but they will taste better than the Michelin-starred restaurants back home. The wonder of fresh air, movement and not overeating.

What to Take

You will be exposed to dry air and strong sunlight the whole day. And you will probably freeze (at least a bit) at night.

Secondly, the Sahara sand will get into your even smallest pocket by the end of your trip.

This Djanet travel guide recommends bringing the following:

• Broad-rim hat
• Winter hat
• Scarf
• Sunglasses
• 50+ sunscreen
• More 50+ sunscreen. You will be applying it all the time
• Lip balm, otherwise your lips will probably crack
• Eye drops
• Warm sleeping bag
• Dehydration powder to replenish nutrients lost as you will be sweating a lot on those dune climbs
• Headlight (preferred) or flashlight
• Binoculars
• Wipes for your personal hygiene (showers available only in Djanet)
• Antibacterial cream
• Comfortable and sturdy shoes
• Deodorant (solid)
• Long pants / trousers with many pockets
• Warm hoodie
• Windproof jacket
• Snacks
• Power bars
• Day backpack
• Protective bag for your luggage (sand)

And, most importantly, enjoy! It might be one of the best experiences in anybody’s lifetime. Those small nuisances probably do not matter in the long run.

Forget the world, forget this Djanet travel guide, forget the do’s and don’ts of the everyday life.

Enjoy the silence, excellent views and time away from it all.

Algeria travel guide

For the overall introduction to Algeria with the visa, Covid restrictions, etc., please check Algeria.

Avoid crowds in other countries

You are probably interested (among other things) in solitude, nature and no crowds (difficult to find any in Sahara).

Beyond this Djanet travel guide, if you prefer to avoid crowds on your next trips, please check Avoid Crowds When Travelling – Top 21 Tips (2022). They include some fantastic lesser known countries, cities and destinations.

Easter Island is remote and stunning with its moai.

Uzbekistan or Kyrgyzstan are other great countries with amazing mountains, lakes and history.

For another different but amazing destination please check Indonesia, and especially the Komodo tour or Bena Traditional Village (Flores).