This guide to the impressive Silk Road town of Bukhara includes why visit Bukhara, how to get to Bukhara, what to do with itinerary, where to stay, and where to go next.
Why Visit Bukhara?
Together with Samarkanda and Khiva, this is a quintessential medieval Silk Road town. Built on the trade riches, war tributes and bounty of the conquered nations, Bukhara has become one of the leading cities in Islamic XII-XVIII centuries. A strong Islamic scholarship, architecture and culture were flourishing here. The city is full of the impressive Quranic schools (madrassah), mosques and mausolea to the previous rulers of the city. Definitely one of the highlights of Uzbekistan, don’t miss it.
The old city is compact with most sites within a 15 minute walk. If you visit during the hot summer months (40C is standard during the midday heat), the old town will be deserted with traders and tourists enjoying their siesta. Cats are dozing in the shady corner and even flies seem to be giving up and have vanished.
On the other hand, this might be an excellent time to visit as you will have the monuments largely to yourself. In addition, shade is abundantly available, and everybody is maximizing the shade time and minimizing walking in the open sun. Secondly, Bukhara air is dry so 36C might be more bearable than 30C in humid New York or London. Secondly, the excellent Uzbekistan Railways Afrosiyob trains will have ticket availability daily. That is unlike the peak tourist times of May and September, when you might have to travel on slower and less comfortable Soviet-era Sharq trains.
In short, this is a delightful old city for at least 2 nights and three days, which will be plenty to cover the major sites, some of them probably a few times. Secondly, it is highly recommended to visit the venues again in the evening as the illuminated buildings are impressive. Secondly, it will be more pleasant to to walk around when the temperatures dropped by at least 10C.
How to get to Bukhara?
Bukhara offers a variety of excellent transportation options.
(1) Train to Bukhara
Unless flying in, by the far the most convenient way. The Uzbekistan Railways have significantly upgraded their trains and acquired the new European-manufactured Talgo trains. These Afrosiyob trains are modern, clean, punctual and with good air-conditioning. Unfortunately, in August 2022 they did not offer wifi on any connection.
The standard tourist trail of Tashkent – Samarkand – Bukhara is all being served by Afrosiyob. This train has the business and economy sections with the competitive pricing (e.g., Tashkent – Bukhara economy of UZS168,000 ($16), Bukhara – Samarkand economy of UZS71,600 ($7)). Those trains are faster and more comfortable than buses or taxis and are accordingly in high demand. During the tourist peak season (spring and fall), you might want to purchase the tickets a few days in advance. Tickets may be bought in person at the train stations, on the web or using the excellent Uzbekistan Railways app. It is intuitive, not crashing, accepting foreign credit cards and can be set to English.
(2) Plane
There is an international airport with regular scheduled flights. The prices will probably be higher than arriving in Tashkent but you will save time.
(3) Coach / Bus
Longer than the train by 1-2 hours with less comfortable seats, the train is clearly preferred to the bus journey. Take it only if there are no train tickets available.
(4) (Shared) taxi
Similarly, a taxi ride will be longer than a train ride with more cramped seats. Take it only if there are no train tickets available.
Get around Bukhara
Bukhara’s old town is compact and walkable. There are a few sites within 15-30 minute walking distance (e.g., Central Bazaar, Samanid Mausoleum, Chashma-Ayub Mausoleum, Qo’sh Madrasa, all to the west of the old city). Some of the distance may be done in a park limiting exposure to the relentless sun. Most tourists stay within the well-defined old city.
From the train station you can either take a taxi or a public bus. Depending on your negotiation skills, the taxi should not cost more than $3-5 to the old city. The bus will be less than $1.
What to do in Bukhara (itinerary)?
Bukhara is one of the main reasons for visiting Uzbekistan. One of the top three Silk Road attractions in Uzbekistan (together with Samarkand and Khiva), it justifies at least 2 nights to spend there.
Bukhara also has a different feel than Samarkand. Samarkand is a regular large town with a population of 600,000, with some amazing Islamic buildings embedded in various spots of this vibrant city. Bukhara is smaller with a population of 280,000, but the all major historic sites are located in the compact old city, or close nearby. The old city conveys much more the feeling of an Islamic medieval city with the madrasah (Islamic religious schools), mosques, caravanseray and old shops in the old city. Yes, there are some cars and, of course, countless traders trying to sell the usual indispensable tourist products, but it all feels like some noise in the otherwise well-preserved and atmospheric old city.
The main sites include the Islamic religious schools (madrasah), mosques, old trading venues, and tombs of the earlier rulers. A visit to the Central Bazaar is probably not to be missed. It is an active market catering mainly to the local population and not the tourist trade.
The key sites are all within walking distance and include:
(1) Nadir Divan-Begi Madrasah
This will probably be the first main old Islamic building you will encounter when entering the old city. It is next to a small park offering some respite from the relentless sun. It is probably a warm-up as there will be other more impressive sites but pleasant to start with.
(2) Ko’kaldosh Madrasah
Immediately to your right you will see the Ko’kaldosh madrasah, another initial building. Again, nice to start with but there will be much more impressive monuments later on.
(3) Lyabi House
Things are starting to get significantly more impressive with Lyabi House, 2 minutes away. It is attractively located next to an old small pool with restaurants around it. Lyabi House was constructed around 1620 A.D. The architecture is stunning and there is no entry fee. The food around the pool is average at best at inflated prices.
(4) Magoki Attor
This small temple is actually one of the oldest sacred sites in Bukhara. Translated as “Pit of Herbalists” there was a pagan temple, a Buddhist shrine, a Zoroastrian fire temple, a mosque, a synagogue, and finally the current mosque. Small and without the intricate tiles and engravings, but full of history and atmospheric. Not to be missed.
(5) Mir-i-Arab Madrassah
Walking another minute, this is one of the top sites in Bukhara (and Uzbekistan) and definitely not to be missed. You are coming to the most stunning square in Bukhara. An outstanding madrassah, a mosque and a minaret have been all impressively designed. Mir-i-Arab is a striking Islamic religious school with intricate patterns and a vast hall. The patterns are evaluated as some of the finest in Bukhara, and they were individually designed and crafted.
(6) Minorai Kalon
An impressive 48m medieval minaret and watchtower constructed in 1127 AD. Stunning decorations and well-illuminated at night. Not to be missed, especially after the sunset when the square is incredibly atmospheric with the Mir-i-Arab, Minorai Kalon and Kalan Mosque. Definitely one of the top sites in Uzbekistan.
(7) Kalan Mosque
Constructed in the 16th century with a large hall and still an active mosque. A truly magical experience at sunset when the tiles are glimmering and changing colors.
(8) Abdulaziz Khan Madrassah
2 minutes away are two extremely impressive madrassahs facing each other in a side street: Abdulaziz Khan (built in 1652) and Ulugbek. I found those two madrassah, and especially the Abdulaziz Khan, very impressive even though they are not renovated and not as glimmering as their cousins 2 minutes away.
The design and architecture of the Abdulaziz Khan Madrassah is stunning from the external gate and the vision of heaven through righteous life and study. This madrassah is the youngest of the main Islamic schools, and every effort was made to surpass other existing ones with architectural splendor and intricate tiles. Immediately to your left there is a small museum with a helpful curator, who will describe the meaning of heaven and hell and the architectural design to convey them. There is an entry fee of UZS50,000 ($5) which might look rather steep, but given the magnificence of the inside is well worth it. In addition, the ticket is valid for 3 days.
(9) Ulugbek Madrassah
Completed in 1417 by the mathematician, astrologist and governor of Bukhara, Ulug-beg. Can be entered using the same ticket purchased at Abdulaziz Khan Mandrassah. Not fully-renovated, which adds to its raw beauty. There are plenty of small shops in the study rooms and dormitories, but the sellers are only moderately aggressive in their selling tactics.
All these monuments alone are sufficiently impressive to leave a lasting memory (and tens of photos). If you are still looking for some new ones, there are many more in Bukhara. Some of my personal favorites include:
(10) Qo’sh Madrassah
It is outside of the current old city (15 minutes walk) and currently attracts almost no tourists. It is also close to the park and the bazaar if you are heading this way. The architecture and the intricate engravings are on par with the more famous cousins in the old city. The city of Bukhara has renovated it and started marketing it to the city guides and tourists. Currently no entry fee and you will have it probably to yourself. Impressive and tranquil.
We were lucky to visit Qo’sh madrassah when there was a party with a traditional performance.
(11) Bolo Hauz Mosque
10 minutes north in the direction of the bazaar is this mosque constructed in 1712. It is actually different with some colorful decorative vaulting and wooden columns. Blissfully serene and impressive, especially at night. Currently no entry fee.
(12) Arc of Bukhara
On your way to the sites above, this fortress was the residence of the last Khan of Bukhara until 1920. Interesting architecture inside and some museums. Good photos around the sunset time. Entry fee UZS60,000 ($6).
Those sites provide 2 solid days of sightseeing and a good overview of the glory of Bukhara during the Silk Road period.
Where to stay in Bukhara?
As one of the main tourist attractions in Uzbekistan, Bukhara has a range of accommodation options ranging from high-end converted old houses to mid-range options to homestays.
I stayed in and liked the excellent Rahmat Guesthouse. It is located in the old city 5 minutes away from the Minorai minaret square. Tastefully renovated and furnished with strong hot water pressure and air conditioning. Very friendly owners who will prepare an organic home-made breakfast in the shaded courtyard. Happy to help with ANY question you might have (and I had many), all answered with knowledge, humor and patience.
Where to go next?
Samarkand and Khiva are the other top sites in Uzbekistan. Getting to Samarkand by the fast Afrosiyob train will take 2 hours. Unfortunately, traveling to Khiva will take 6 hours.
