This Buenos Aires travel guide has the following sections below.
- Why Visit
- Covid-19 Restrictions
- Visas
- When to Visit
- Safety
- Hassle Factor
- Top 5 Things
- Transportation
- Accommodation
- Food
- Internet
- Overall Tips
- Costs
- Buenos Aires Overall Rating
- Where to Go Next
Why Visit
Buenos Aires is one of the best cities I have ever been to. Really, no exaggeration here.
This city has strong Spanish and Italian roots with the South American flair. It is clear that Buenos Aires has seen its glory days earlier, when it must have been one of the richest and most sophisticated cities in the world. This peak came around 1900 when Argentina was a wealthy and growing country with strong agriculture and overall economy.
The impact of the southern European emigrants can be seen everywhere. There are Spanish and Italian restaurants where you can still hear those languages and the food quality is on par with their European counterparts. Paella will be as good as in Valencia in Spain. Local lasagna will transport you to Bologna in Italy.
And yet there is some melancholy in the air. Argentina might not be the destination of choice for millions of European immigrants anymore. The glory days of Buenos Aires beaming into North America and Europe might be no longer here. Argentines are joking that they have been in an economic crisis all their lives. However, they still manage to enjoy excellent dinner in the cherished company of their family and friends.
In addition, the city is still beautiful with stunning Italianate or Spanish elements. The wide boulevards with wealthy buildings are everywhere. The neighborhoods are diverse and interesting. Also, Buenos Aires has tens of high-quality restaurants, you would pay 2-5 times those prices in NYC, London, Paris or Dubai.
Teatro Colon, Buenos Aires’ answer to the Lincoln Center in NYC or Covent Garden in London is visually stunning and offering world-class performances. And El Ateneo Grand will probably be the most impressive bookshop you will ever visit.
In summary, a great place for a stand-alone vacation for a few days. Or a starting or end point for a longer Argentine trip to Patagonia, Mendoza or Iguazu Falls.
Argentina in Numbers
Population: 46 million (Buenos Aires: 15 million)
Capital: Buenos Aires
Language: Spanish, English widely spoken in tourist areas
Currency: Argentine peso (ARS)
Exchange rate (January 2023): USD 1 = ARS 178, EUR 1 = ARS 190, GBP 1 = ARS 215
Electricity: standard European 230V with 50Hz frequency, standard European plugs C, in addition electricity plug I (three flat prongs mainly used in Australia, New Zealand or South Pacific)
Covid-19 Restrictions
As the Covid-19 requirements have been changing constantly, this Buenos Aires travel guide recommends checking the current restrictions before you depart for Argentina.
The website of the Argentine Consulate in New York:
https://cnyor.cancilleria.gob.ar/en/requirements-entry-argentine-republic
As of January 2023, NO Covid-19 restrictions.
No requirement to present the health form “Declaración Jurada”.
NO Covid-19 vaccination certificates requested at the arrival .
Also, NO Covid-19 tests (PCR or antigen) requested at the arrival.
Finally, NO quarantine.
Visas
Tourist visits up to 90 days do not require a visa.
The following countries are exempt: US, UK, EU, most Central and South American countries, Turkey, Russia and others.
The current full list of exempt countries:
When to Visit
The Buenos Aires climate is the reverse of the northern hemisphere’s.
The best time to visit Buenos Aires would be during the spring (September to November) and fall (March to May) when the weather is mild, and the crowds are smaller compared to peak summer months.
December-February is the hot and humid summer (30C+ / 86F+).
Fall (March to May) and spring (September to November) are most pleasant to visit.
Winter (June to August) will be crisp with average temperatures 8-16C (46-61F).
Safety
I have not encountered any uncomfortable situations in the tourist areas in central Buenos Aires.
Having said that, there are reports of theft, also conducted by “motochorros”, who might snatch phones or valuables while on their bikes.
Safety in Buenos Aires is also highly dependent on the specific area and hours. Be careful in La Boca or San Telmo after the sunset.
Overall, the usual sensible precautions would apply here. Don’t show off expensive items. Keep your backpack close to your body. Know what you are doing when it is dark.
Another thing to be aware of is the traffic in Buenos Aires. It can be quite chaotic and pedestrians are not always given priority by drivers. It is best to stay alert and cross the streets with the locals.
However, my perception is that all this should not keep your from exploring the city (or not coming at all). Please be careful and most probably nothing will happen to you.
Hassle Factor
2/10. In the central Buenos Aires no aggressive street sellers or tour operators.
Top 5 Things in Buenos Aires
A Buenos Aires city trip will be great with a mix of interesting sites, awesome food and good walks.
(1) Visit Recoleta cemetery, the Belle Epoque place of rest for some of Argentine’s most famous people, including Eva “Evita” Peron. A mix of Art Nouveau, baroque, masonic and gothic designs is an eerily beautiful place
(2) Stay in or walk around Palermo, the chic neighborhood of colorful houses, museums, parks, and trendy boutiques and restaurants. Or the Caminito street museum, located in La Boca, a lively pedestrian street lined with colorful houses and tango clubs.
(3) Walk around the city center. See the El Ateneo Grand bookstore in a former theatre, probably the most stunning bookplace you will ever visit. In addition, Evita Museum is dedicated to the life and legacy of Eva Perón, one of the most iconic figures in Argentine history. The Obelisk is a iconic monument located in the Plaza de la Republica, it is one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks. Even if you are not into classical music, attend a performance at Teatro Colon. Already the staircase and the halls will be impressive enough.
(4) Day trip to Uruguay by ferry. You are already here, it close nearby and what is the chance that you would make a separate trip just to Uruguay? A ferry to Colonia del Sacramento takes 1 hour 15 minutes, several departures per day, two main companies: Colonia Express and Buquebus. Buy tickets online in advance, the first morning departures are frequently sold out.
(5) Venture out to San Telmo, a historic neighborhood with cobblestone streets, antique shops and tango clubs. Visit La Boca, a colorful neighborhood known for its street art and tango dancing. The Caminito in La Boca is a street museum and a traditional alley with colorful houses and tango dancers.
And, needless to say, enjoy the excellent restaurants at a great price-quality point.
In other words, almost Old World charm just an overnight flight from NYC with little jetlag.
Transportation
How to get from the airport to the Buenos Aires city?
- Taxis: You can take a taxi from the airport to the city center. This is the most convenient option, but also the most expensive.
- Airport Shuttle Bus: The Manuel Tienda León shuttle bus service is available 24 hours a day, departing every 30 minutes from the airport to Retiro Bus Terminal in the city center.
- Public Bus: The Public Bus Line 8 operates from the airport to the city center, with the final stop at Retiro Bus Terminal.
- Subte (Subway): You can take the subway from the airport to the city center. It’s a bit more complicated than the other options, but is relatively cheap. The subway line E connects the airport with the city center.
In Buenos Aires, the most popular way of transportation for tourists is the subway, which is very easy to use and is the most affordable option.
If you are staying in central Buenos Aires, many of those places are walkable. For longer distances, Uber is working here.
In my experience, regular taxi drivers are less nice and sometimes it is difficult to communicate in English.
Accommodation
Given high tourist numbers for decades, a wide variety of hotels across the price spectrum.
Firstly, please decide which area of the city you want to stay in. They are pretty spread out and have a different feeling.
- La Boca: a colorful neighborhood known for its vibrant street art and historic houses. A more bohemian experience of the city, with some hostels and budget friendly hotels, and close to the famous Caminito street museum.
- Recoleta: an upscale neighborhood known for its cemetery, where many famous Argentineans are buried, as well as its many art galleries, boutiques and luxury hotels.
- San Telmo: a historic neighborhood known for its colonial-era architecture, tango clubs, and antique shops.
- Palermo: a large neighborhood known for its many parks and gardens, such as the Botanic Garden and the Japanese Garden. A more trendy and gentrified district for shopping and nightlife.
- Microcentro: This area is very centrally located and offers easy access to the city center and major attractions such as the Obelisk, the Teatro Colon, and the Plaza de Mayo. This area offers a variety of accommodations, from budget-friendly hotels to luxury resorts.
Food (this Buenos Aires travel guide’s favorite section)
Ah, the food in this city. One of the big reasons to visit and stay a few days. This is still a city of long lunches and celebrated dinners.
Parrilla
Argentina is, rightfully so, proud of its steaks. If this is what you are into, you will have a great time here. A lunch or dinner in one of the parrilla (grill) will be a leisurely long affair with a million calories inducing you to a well-deserved siesta afterwards.
Your meal will typically start with achuras sausages or entrails. Alternatively, try the heavenly provoleta, a grilled hunk of cheese. Crispy on the outside, soft and melting inside, and a serious size it would make a stand-alone meal elsewhere.
But not in Buenos Aires. The main star of the show are the steak cuts and the waiter will make a short but serious lecture about the pros and cons of different cuts. They are usually served without any side dishes (guarniciones). Be careful with those, even a portion of simple chips or fries will be pretty gargantuan by any European, Asian or even post-Covid American standards.
Also, I was reminded that some serious steak customers here enjoy their steak only with salt, chimichurri and salsa criolla sauces. Yes, this purist approach was great as well as the meat quality is so outstanding.
A separate chapter should be probably written about the wines accompanying your meal. The good parillas have wine lists north of 100 items. To your representative on the ground, a true porteño (person living in Buenos Aires) reminded me gently but firmly that only a good Malbec would do. Not negotiable.
almost all parrillas are excellent
A list of the best steakhouses seems to be a highly contentious issue starting major arguments among the connoisseurs. I am definitely not a parilla expert but I liked those.
Parrilla Peña. A no fuss restaurant with heavenly provoleta and good steaks. Traditional and local. You will not go bankrupt by going there.
You can also attend a “private” parrilla dinner. Some chefs open doors to a private house where a group of (mainly foreign) tourists will gather to go through a parrilla dinner in a more personal setting. The upside is that you will probably meet some interesting people sharing at least some of your interests (you all flew to Buenos Aires and opted for this “private” steak experience), so the evening will likely be lovely. I managed to sign up in one and my experience is somewhat mixed. The other tourists were interesting with great stories from around the world, the house and the garden were nice, but the food was less memorable than in the earlier parrilla restaurants.
Other excellent places include Don Julio, La Brigada or La Cabrera. A bit more touristy but venerable institutions which have been around for a long time. They must be doing something right even in the fastidious eyes of the local customers.
Beyond this serious sit-down affair, Buenos Aires also perfected the art of eating excellent meat on the go. This delicious invention is called choripán, a grilled chorizo sausage in a humble bun. Served with good chimichurri sauce, absolutely heavenly. Try one at Nuestra Parrilla in San Telmo and feel like a local in the know. This is real stuff: many locals, little English spoken, and excellent food. And all for a few dollars. Definitely try.
Spanish or Italian
After this tonne of high-quality parrilla, probably time will come when you will crave something lighter. And, given its strong immigrant roots, this city will offer incredible Spanish or Italian restaurants.
Close to the Recoleta cemetery, El Burladero is simply excellent. Already the bread, olives and some wine in this elegant restaurant are full of flavor and wholesome. Paella or squid are as good as in Spain or best places in Florida. And, for the closing note, forget the calories, forget the cholesterol, close your eyes, and enjoy the crema catalana. On the more pricey side, try the lunch set menu.
On the Italian side, La Parolaccia is a great option. It has several locations including the more touristy ones on the shore. However, the Barrio Norte outpost was very traditional with local guests, a jovial waiter and no rush anywhere. Excellent food in a nice atmosphere, it is clear the locals are coming here regularly to enjoy a meal in a tranquil place. On the more expensive side, open also during lunch hours.
Sweet tooth
Alfajores are traditional Argentine cookies made with dulce de leche, a caramel-like sauce, sandwiched between two cookies. For extra carbohydrates, it dusted with powdered sugar.
Dulce de Leche is a caramel-like spread made from condensed milk. It is often used as a filling in pastries, and as a topping for ice cream.
When it comes to drinks, Buenos Aires is known for its delicious wine and mate, a traditional Argentine tea-like drink made from dried leaves of the yerba mate plant.
Internet
Wifi widely available, speeds can vary. Working (including Zoom, etc.) usually possible.
Overall Tips
(1) Bring cash. USD and EUR have the best exchange rates. Needed for small eateries.
Costs
Overall, Buenos Aires is offering a stunning city with excellent food at prices well below NYC, San Francisco, London or Paris.
Overall, this Buenos Aires travel guide thinks a good price-value ratio.
Buenos Aires Overall Rating
An excellent choice for an extended city break. It will take a long time to get there from the US, Europe or Asia so spend a few days.
WHERE TO GO NEXT
Beyond this Buenos Aires travel guide, please consider some other places nearby. South America is a big continent and travel there is taking time. Patagonia or Mendoza are excellent destinations. Alternatively, leave the mainland well behind you and go to the Easter Island. You will not forget those enigmatic moai statues and the island remoteness anytime soon.
