Egypt

This Egypt travel guide is based on my November 2022 trip. It has the following sections:

• Why Visit
• Egypt in Numbers
• Covid-19 Restrictions
• Visas
• When to Visit
• Safety
• Hassle Factor
• Top 5 Things in Egypt
• Itinerary
• Transportation
• Accommodation
• Food
• Internet
• Overall Tips
• Costs
• Egyptian Beliefs and Architecture
• Egypt Overall Rating
• More Information about Egypt
• Useful Arabic Words

Why Visit

Egypt has been on the traveller’s target list for hundred of years. For proof, read the graffiti on the ancient monuments in Abu Simbel or Luxor.

However, there are good reasons for tourists’ permanent interest. The archeological sites are world-class and have been a magnet for visitors from all around the planet. Pyramids in Giza near Cairo. Temples and tombs in Luxor. More temples and tombs in the more-relaxed Aswan. The chaotic metropolis of Cairo, which usually inspires either love or hate (or both at the same time). Less visited Sinai with the desert and St. Catherine’s monastery. Alexandria established by the founder of one of the biggest empires in the history of mankind (Alexander the Great). Siwa, Dakhla or another oasis for the ultimate Egyptian Sahara experience.

Moreover, in the peak tourists season of October-February, the weather is awesome with 20-25C during the day and around 10-15C at night. Sunny, with little rain and no fog (hello, London).

Some Egyptians are truly nice, hospitable and ready to help, when met in a private setting. Those conversations were some of the highlights of my Egypt trip.

Unfortunately, in spite of the steady tourist flows, you will also encounter a significant hassle factor in Egypt. The unemployment rate here is high and everybody needs to feed their family. I tried to consider that as an additional price to pay for the impressive archeological sites and the balmy weather.

And then, months or years later, you will probably want to come back to Egypt. This uncontrolled chaos with those stunning ancient Egyptian monuments along the Nile is pretty alluring.

Egypt in Numbers

Population: 107 million

Capital: Cairo

Language: Arabic (English widely spoken in tourist areas)

Currency: Egyptian Pound

Exchange rate (November 2022): USD 1 = EGP24.50, EUR 1 = EGP25.40, GBP 1 = EGP29.20

Electricity: standard European 230V with 50Hz frequency, standard European plugs

Covid-19 Restrictions

As of November 2022, NO Covid-19 restrictions.

NO Covid-19 vaccination certificates requested at the arrival.

Also, NO Covid-19 tests (PCR or antigen) requested at the arrival.

Visas

Most countries require a visa.

Easily obtainable at the arrival airport for $25 per person. You simply go to the bank office before the immigration booths, pay $25 (USD or other currencies accepted) and obtain a payment confirmation.

Afterwards, you will go with this slip to to the immigration desk, where you will get your visa on the spot.

Important: my photo and finger prints were taken at the Sharm el-Sheikh airport during the COP27 conference in November 2022. I assume this was a one-off measure during this event.

According to the seasoned Egypt travellers, this is NOT a standard practice in other airports in Egypt (e.g., Cairo). Thank you for pointing this out.

In addition, you will also have to fill out a small customs form with your name, flight number and your accommodation name. At exiting Egypt you will have to fill a similar card again.

Overall, an uncomplicated process. Just anticipate the inevitable lines at the bank counter and immigration booths (again, probably because I arrived during the COP27 conference).

When to Visit Egypt

October – February is the best. The day temperatures will be 20-30C, sunny and clear skies. December and January will be cooler, a hoodie or jacket required.

Due to the high temperature differences between day and night, please take both flip flops and a jacket and a scarf.

For Sahara camping, you will need hats, gloves and a warm sleeping bag as well.

Safety

Sadly, Egypt has had safety and security issues, some also involving the foreign tourists. However, there are currently no highly-publicized safety accidents including visitors.

Overall, given the importance of the tourism economy, all corresponding areas are under strict and constant supervision. You will go through tens of police road checkpoints. There will be see soldiers in full gear with guns watching you. You will see armored military vehicles with machine guns.

All this is normal.

In more supervised areas (e.g., Sinai, close to Libya), your driver will leave your name and country, and his license plate in some checkpoints. You will be tracked while travelling, especially if at night. When at a checkpoint, a simple “hello” or “salam” (same in Arabic) to the border security is usually sufficient.

Also, your vehicle might be scanned also underneath on a special platform for any hidden cargo, for example in Sinai when approaching the Sharm el-Sheikh airport.

When going to the desert in Sinai, or the west or the south of the country, you will absolutely need a guide. Non-negotiable for many reasons.

You probably do not want to make history and news headlines for any wrong reasons.

Hassle Factor

For Egypt overall, the hassle factor is 10/10. Egypt has been a big tourist destination for decades.

However, this hassle factor does differ across cities. Cairo and Luxor are probably 10 out of 10 (or higher if it were possible).

Aswan is more relaxed with 5/10 with most incidents around the Nile promenade and the boats, feluccas and ferries there. A polite “thanks”, “shukran” (the same in Arabic) or “la shukran” (“no, thanks”) will probably be sufficient. Smile and move on.

Dahab is quiet and nobody will bother you much.

Moreover, if you want less of this delightful exposure in Giza, Luxor or Aswan, travel early before the main tourist tours. At 6-8am there will also be fewer hawkers, your potential guides, and their friends (and their friends).

As an additional remedy, please also learn a few words in Arabic. Some, which we found useful, are below.

In our experience, sellers would immediately become less pushy if you say something in Arabic, however mispronounced that might be (as in our case).

Top 5 Things in Egypt

So after all this tough stuff, one of the nicest topics. Planning your next trip. No Egypt travel guide can be without a top 5 list, so here is my attempt.

I think there are actually two separate Top 5 destinations in Egypt.

Traditional must sees

Firstly, those which you have to see because they simply have to be seen as so unique in the world. Pyramids in Giza near Cairo and Luxor with its temples and tombs are on this list.

However, Karnak in Luxor is vast and impressive, but severely ruined over the centuries.

Moreover, pyramids and Luxor will be congested and you will face a lot of hassle in those places. Everybody will want to take you on a tour or boat, put you on a camel, horse-drawn carriage or a sunset felucca, or just sell you all the usual indispensable tourist t-shirts, necklaces or Nefertiti miniatures.

Excellent lesser known sites

Now, once you ticked off all those must-see destinations above, you might do what you really want to do. Go to some amazing temples outside of Luxor, which are in a good condition, less damaged over the centuries and with almost no tourists. Also, given there are no visitors, there are fewer hawkers. Abu Simbel, Kom Ombo, Edfu or Philae temples are excellent examples. Most are located in stunning locations on the Nile. Moreover, when driving to Abu Simbel, the Sahara views are already great.

(1) Aswan in the south of the country as a spring board for Abu Simbel and the adjacent temples of Philae, Kom Ombo or Edfu

(2) Sinai for a different desert experience, diving in Dahab and a visit to Saint Catherine’s Monastery

(3) Luxor with its Karnak and Luxor temples on the East Bank, and Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens and temples on the West Bank

(4) Pyramids in Giza

(5) Sahara oasis (e.g., Dakhla, Siwa)

Itinerary

This itinerary is based on those top 5 with several options depending on your available time.

Four chunks of Egypt

• Sinai (Sharm el-Sheikh, Dahab, St Catherine’s monastery)
• Must sees in the middle (pyramids in Cairo, Luxor temples and tombs)
• Additional great lesser known in the south (Aswan, Abu Simbel)
• Optional north (Alexandria, Siwa Oasis).

The optional north (Alexandria, Siwa Oasis) is interesting but time consuming. It takes 9-12 hours on a (night) bus from Cairo to Siwa Oasis. The oasis is allegedly great but those are a minimum of two nights on the bus. You would probably stay there at least two nights, so 4 nights / 5 days total. If you have two weeks for your Egypt trip, probably skip it. Having said that, I do want to visit on the next trip as all the main sites are done.

The south with Aswan, Abu Simbel and the adjacent temples (e.g., Kom Ombo, Edfu) is absolutely amazing. Great sites set in stunning locations plus in a more relaxed environment than Luxor or Cairo. This was my favorite area on my trip. And this is the place I want to return, not sure about Cairo again.

Sinai is totally different from the rest of Egypt. It is more about excellent diving and snorkelling in the Red Sea, beach, hiking and the St Catherine’s monastery. Dahab there is probably the most relaxed tourist town in all of Egypt where nobody will bother you much. This, by itself, is a big advantage.

Cheap flights from Europe

You might have noticed the unusual arrival and departure airports in this itinerary. Sharm el-Sheikh and Hurghada are traditional beach resorts, which are less interesting for independent travellers.

However, their biggest draw is the cheap flights from Europe. Wizzair and Easyjet are flying there from many countries, plus the regional airlines as well. For example, with some planning and luck, you can buy flights from London for £20-50 one way.

Alternatively, you can fly from London to Cairo and Luxor-London open jaw with Egyptair for £400-600.

In other words, if coming from America or Asia, it is cheaper to fly to and spend a weekend in London. Then hop on a budget Wizzair or Easyjet flight from London Gatwick or Luton. A free weekend in London is always nice.

Transportation

Once in Egypt, how to get around this huge country?

Overall, there are good transport options with flight, trains, long-distance buses and minibuses. Taxis, minibuses and tuk-tuk available for shorter distances.

Fly, if possible

Egypt is a vast country. Secondly, its main tourist sites are spread out. Giza pyramids to Luxor temples is a day (or night) train, or a long-distance bus away. Luxor to Aswan takes approximately 4 hours one way. Aswan to Abu Simbel another 4 hours one way. Cairo to Siwa oasis in the western Sahara, 9-12 hours on the bus. Dahab to Cairo: 10-12 hours by bus.

Taking one or two of those is usually no problem. However, constant travelling across those distances is exhausting. If possible, take a domestic flight. It might be not more expensive if you incorporate the additional hotels and extra days lost. For example, AirCairo has one direct flight per day connecting Sharm el-Sheikh and Luxor. 60 minutes on an ATR turboprop will save this 10 hour bus ride to Cairo and then another 10 hours to Luxor. Depending on when you book, you can buy this one-way flight for $35-80.

Second option: trains

Trains take approximately the same time as buses or series of minibuses, but are more comfortable. Bear in mind, the Egyptian railways cannot boast the same punctuality record as some of their cousins in Europe, and not to mention Japan. It is not unusual for a train to be 30-90 minutes late. However, the solution is straightforward: the previous train is probably also late. Therefore, it turned out I was travelling from Luxor to Aswan on the previous train which departed around the time my original train was supposed to.

Secondly, there are a few types of trains in Egypt. Ordinary, which tourists are not encouraged to take. “Spanish trains” are more spacious but look relatively vintage of the 1980s variety. However, for their advanced age they are still pretty agile and comfortable. Just do not expect a Spanish Talgo train as in Uzbekistan, as I had mistakingly done.

Moreover, they are inexpensive. Luxor-Aswan costs approximately EGP70-90 ($3.20-$4) depending on the train.

Finally, the Egyptian railways has a good and intuitive website with a good schedule information and an English option. Their website is here:

https://www.enr.gov.eg/Ar/

Third option: buses or minibuses

Long-distance buses. Go Bus has many connections and is usually preferred by tourists. Blue Bus is another ok option. Good news that the tourist and local prices are usually the same. Buy a ticket in advance in the office or online to avoid any issues later. Please note some drivers demand an EGP 5-10 fee to load a piece of luggage.

Also, buses offer a pretty reasonable pricing in comparison with taxis as well. You will pay EGP200 for one way ride with Go Bus from Luxor to Hurghada, which takes 4-5 hours. Even after negotiations, a taxi would be multiple of that.

Minibus. They are everywhere and will take you everywhere (if not this one alone, maybe another two or three). Usually the same price for tourists and locals. However, agree the price with the driver before the journey starts. Otherwise, you might be surprised to have to pay a higher price than the local passengers (my experience on my first minibus trip). Secondly, paying in exact change to get the agreed-upon price is always a good idea.

And they are inexpensive. A local minibus in Aswan or Luxor is EGP2 one way. Aswan-Kom Ombo takes approximately 1 hour and costs EGP15 ($0.70), Kom Ombo-Edfu again 1 hour and EGP15. Edfu-Luxor takes 2 hours and costs EGP30 ($1.40).

Taxis: expensive lesson in negotiation skills

Taxis. After the 2022 gas price increases, not a bargain anymore. Sharm el-Sheikh to Dahab one way is $35-40. Dahab to St Catherine’s monastery return with one hour at the destination is $70. Warning: as per the Hassle section, taxi drivers will try to charge you significantly more than the local prices.

Some good tours

Tours. Usually expensive and geared towards tourists. Many Egyptian companies are offering daily or multi-day tours. Pricing depending on the number of passengers.

However, there are some excellent and reasonably priced tours as well. For example, Gandhi at the excellent Go Inn Backpackers in Aswan is organizing a daily trip to Abu Simbel for EGP400. You will be travelling in a modern, clean and punctual Toyota minibus with other tourists from China, Americas, Australia, New Zealand and Europe.

Also, the always helpful Omar at the Bob Marley hotel in Luxor is organizing good Luxor West Bank tours for EGP150 per person.

Accommodation

Given high tourist numbers for decades, a wide variety of hotels across the price spectrum. International chains (e.g., Hilton), mid-range or budget options are available in every tourist site.

All are available through the standard reservation sites. All the main ones are available both outside and inside Egypt (unlike, for example, in Turkey where one major site is not available).

Food

No Egypt travel guide would be complete without a food section.

As on any trip, food is a critical component of traveller’s happiness. Or, as Napoleon might have said, “a soldier is marching on his stomach”.

Breakfast

Breakfast in many tourist accommodations will include the inevitable omelette (a thin version with no vegetables, cheese or meat inside). As in the other Middle Eastern countries, excellent white cheese (labneh) with tomatoes, cucumbers and some fruit (e.g., melon). In addition, you will see yoghurt (plain or flavored), honey, (super sweet) jams and butter. All with the local round pita bread.

Lunch and dinner

Lunch and dinner might see a popular street food dish of falafel served either in a pita as sandwich or on a plate. Some freshly-made falafel with salad, tahini and eggplant in a fresh pita is delicious, especially after your temple visit. Also as in the neighboring countries, kebab (lamb, kofta) or lamb shank are popular. If fresh and prepared well, amazing. In the cooler months, lentil soup with fresh pita and lemon is comforting and warming up. The healthy Western imports of burgers and pizzas are everywhere, including McDonald’s and KFC.

Sometimes, there is also an unexpected treat such as a good international restaurant. Not of the Burger King variety, but for example KAM Thai in Luxor. Clean and authentic as the excellent cook is a Thai lady from the south of the country.

Street food

Traditional bakeries are everywhere and are great. Croissant, pastries, pitas, bigger round ones similar to focaccia but without abundant fillings are awesome. Imagine walking back from your first temple visit in the morning, and an enticing smell of freshly-baked croissants is wafting in the chilly and crispy air. Difficult to resist and costs much less than $1.

Street food is usually good. Falafel stands are everywhere and this boiling oil is probably going to kill everything, which might hurt your stomach. Also, in Aswan there are excellent local pizza stands. Dough made fresh on premises (= on top of the cart) with a formidable-looking oven next to it. Served savory (e.g., with cheese, tomatoes and peppers) or sweet (honey, chocolate spread and then sprinkled with extra sugar if you need it), they are warm, nice and filling.

The traditional tea (“shai”) is excellent, especially with fresh mint (nana). A good way to finish your dinner in colder November, December or January.

Fruits and vegetables are good. Be careful though, you HAVE to wash them well before eating. Otherwise, bananas are probably the best choice. Same approach as in sub-Saharan Africa.

Internet

Wifi widely available in hotels and hostels, speeds can vary. Working (including Zoom, etc.) is not always possible but it is usually free.

Overall Tips

(1) Bring cash. USD and EUR have the best exchange rates. Egypt is still largely a cash economy.

(2) Wash your hands frequently. Luckily, after Covid liquid disinfectants or wipes are everywhere. Many tourists are suffering from digestive problems. No fun while facing another ten-hour journey. Heat, rubbish on the streets and flies everywhere in Egypt are not a great combination for the unprepared tourist stomachs.

(3) Drink filtered or bottled water.

Costs

Tours vs independent

There are two alternatives, and the choice is yours.

If you use tourist higher-end hotels and pre-arranged tours, your trip will be relatively expensive.

If you are using local transportation, local restaurants and mid-range tourist hotels, your trip will be unbelievably good value.

As an example, you can visit the amazing Edfu and Kom Ombo temples on your way from Aswan to Luxor within 8-9 hours. You would pay $70-110 with an Egyptian tour agency, excluding the entrance tickets and the inevitable tips (“backsheesh”) for the driver.

Or you organize the trip yourself. You travel on the local Toyota minibuses or a train, and get tuk-tuks to the temples. And you pay approximately $8 for the same but more colorful experience.

Entry tickets

The entry tickets to the individual temples or tombs have increased a lot recently. All the examples below are as of November 2022.

The cheapest one I paid was EGP60 ($2.70) to the tomb of Sirenput II in west Aswan. Kom Ombo is EGP160 ($7.30). Edfu EGP200 ($9.10). Abu Simbel EGP275 ($12.50). Karnak EGP220 ($10). Luxor temple EGP220 ($10). Cairo pass $100. Luxor Pass $100 again. Premium Luxor Pass (Luxor Pass + tombs of Seti I and Nefertari) $200.

Passes are valid for 5 days.

If you are going to visit all sites in Luxor, the Luxor Pass or the Premium Luxor Pass are worth it. I did not, and opted for the individual tickets.

Egyptian Beliefs and Architecture

Symmetry everywhere

On the last Egypt trip, all temples started to look similar. They all seem to have two entrance gates or pylons, some with parallel or square colonnades. They all seem to have symmetric design of statues or walls. If there are obelisks, there are usually two of them (unless one was taken to Paris). Two Memnon colossi. Four statues of Ramesses II in Abu Simbel, two on each side. Stable stand-alone pylons.

And let’s not forget the eye-pleasing symmetric pyramid shapes.

This symmetry seems everywhere. And all this feels heavy, stable and long-lasting. Compare this with the Guggenheim museum in Bilbao in Spain or Hundertwasser designs in Austria.

Pharaohs never age

Also, the pharaohs and their entourage always seems young and strong. No signs of frail or ill rulers. A little bit like the “Vikings” series on Netflix where the main characters never get old.

Given the Egyptians have been building those structures literally for thousands of years, that is not a coincidence. Rather, it is a well-planned expression of their religious and political beliefs. Which then begs the question, what was their religion? And what role did it play in their society? And why did they spend such enormous effort and resources over the centuries on those structures?

Egyptian beliefs

According to the Egyptian religion, at the beginning of time, nothing existed except the waters of black chaos. Gods created everything, they were ever-present and controlled all aspects of everyday life.

Egyptian religion was not monotheistic as Judaism, Christianity or Islam. Instead, a pantheon of gods existed. God Osiris made the river Nile overflow its banks and deposit its nutrients-rich soil feeding Egypt. When the sun was setting every day, it was god Ra in his barge going down to the underworld. Egyptians prayed that he would rise the next morning and the sun would be present again (by the way, a solar eclipse must have been a disaster for them). Goddess Hathor was present in the trees. Bastet protected the home. Powerful Isis raised her son Horus in the Nile swamps and protected all mothers. Ptah was the god of the underworld.

The most perfect of worlds

Those gods provided the most perfect of worlds to the people of ancient Egypt. And its perfect nature was expected to last forever.

And, if you believed that, who would not like to live in the most perfect of the worlds?

Also, if that perfect universe were to collapse, that would be truly catastrophic and you would probably try to prevent it.

Requiring constant offerings

Consequently, in order to gain gods’ favor and preserve the perfect world, Egyptians practiced a complex system of rituals, prayers and offerings.

That formal religious practice was focused on the pharaohs, who were believed to be intermediaries between their people and the gods. In return, gods would preserve all-encompassing energy, order, truth and harmony (ma’at) and not let the perfect world of the Egyptians collapse into chaos (isfet). Ma’at was in constant threat of disintegrating into isfet, so all society was required to maintain it through religious practice, offerings and obedience.

Hierarchy, hierarchy, hierarchy

The pharaoh was key in maintaining ma’at by maintaining harmony in the society and making offerings to the gods. And after death, he (as most of the pharaohs were men) was deified.

Priests enjoyed a high status in the Egyptian society due to their ability to read, write and possess knowledge passed within the temple walls. Their positions were also lucrative and powerful, and passed within own family (or after long legal battles). In some periods, priests were also state officials further strengthening the bond with the government.

All this was sanctioned and supported by the state, which dedicated huge resources to temple and tomb construction, and the regular religious festivals.

Everybody contributing

In summary, the Egyptian vision of the world was highly hierarchical and was supposed to last forever. The gods were at the top, with the pharaohs as intermediaries in the middle . Priests as his representatives with court, with the military and state administration in the middle. And the rest of the population (about 80%) beneath them. Finally, slaves were at the bottom of the pyramid.

Everybody in the hierarchy understood their place and what was expected and required for their own success and that of the kingdom. Consequently, all work was considered noble and respectable and contributing to ma’at. Unfortunately, social mobility was not encouraged or happened much. That would be against the established ma’at.

It worked until this social contract broke down

Overall, as long as the pharaoh and the upper levels provided peace, food and work to the broader population, the others complied, worked and paid taxes. The country was stable and functioning.

However, once this system broke down due to the cost of military campaigns or food shortage, the ma’at social contract weakened and Egypt has started losing its dominant position.

Stable and symmetric architecture followed

So the stable and symmetric architecture of ancient Egypt was supposed to solidify and demonstrate this pyramid ma’at vision as a correct relationship between the population, pharaohs and gods.

Egypt Overall Rating

A must-see destination, not only for the history buffs.

Those pyramids, temples and tombs are impressive and unique on a global scale.

Nile is stunning pretty much anywhere in Misr (Egypt in Arabic).

Visit, have fun and accept some inevitable nuisance.

MORE INFORMATION ABOUT EGYPT

Useful Arabic Words

In addition to the core travel information in this Egypt travel guide, those Arabic words will help on your trip.

sabah al-khayr: good morning

missah al-khayr: good evening

marhaba: hello

keefak: how are you? (what’s the news?)

shukran: thanks

la shukran: no, thanks

kwayees: good

mumtaz: excellent

miya: water

wahed: one

hamza: five

ashra: ten

ashrun: twenty

meah: hundred

WHERE TO GO NEXT

Beyond this Egypt travel guide, consider Algeria for an amazing Sahara trip around Djanet. Bonus: no tourist hassle.

Or Indonesia for a totally different experience. 17,000 islands, amazing snorkelling and diving, Komodo tour, Mt Rinjani (Lombok) Hike or Bena Traditional Village (Flores).

For the ultimate remote location, fly to Easter Island with its enigmatic moai.

Another up and coming place is Uzbekistan and its stunning Silk Road cities of Samarkand and Bukhara. Combine it with mountains and lakes in Kyrgyzstan.

For a list of places with lesser crowds (and how to avoid them): Avoid Crowds When Travelling – Top 21 Tips (2022).