This is a travel guide to Turkey based on the 2022 trip. Given the inflation in Turkey is 40-100% per year, the prices in the local currency (Turkish lira) are changing fast.
It is rare that one country, even as large as Turkey, can boast of so many advantages. Sunny and warm weather. Access to the Aegean, Mediterranean and Black Seas. World-class historical sites across the Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman and Assyrian cultures. Istanbul, a vibrant city spanning two continents. Cappadocia. Anatolia, the home of the countless empires. Excellent transportation. Amazing and varying food.
Turkey in Numbers
Population: 85 million
Capital: Ankara
Language: Turkish (English and German widely spoken in tourist areas)
Currency: Turkish Lira (TRL)
Exchange rate (September 2022): USD 1 = TRL 18.2, EUR 1 = 18.2, GBP 1 = 21.0
Electricity: standard European 220V, standard European plugs
Covid-19 Restrictions
As of November 2022, none. No testing required prior to departure or after arrival, no vaccination certificates have to be presented, no quarantine.
Visas
EU, UK, Argentina, Brazil, Colombia and many others exempt. US, Australia and China require a visa, e-visa efficient and fast.
When to Visit
March to November is best. The north will be colder, more cloudy, and with more rain and sporadic snow.
Safety
Overall, a safe country.
Solo women travellers might encounter unwelcome advances, especially in the touristy areas (e.g., around the all-inclusive hotels in Antalya).
Tipping culture
Tipping (or backsheesh or bribes) were routinely required across all society levels during the Ottoman Empire. You might witness some of those remnants still in existence in Turkey in the twenty first century.
Some staff in some of the all-inclusive establishments in the western side of Turkey might be pretty aggressive when no tips are handed over.
Alternatively, you might be openly ignored at the bar, if you do not show your monetary gratitude immediately. Even when you only drink tea and no alcoholic beverages.
Service
In addition, given millions of tourists visiting Antalya and Bodrum every year, on average the tourist industry in the south-east Asia exhibits higher politeness levels than those in the south-western part of Turkey.
Things are significantly better in the south-eastern side, where there are few foreign tourists and no all-inclusive hotels. Secondly, the culture is more conservative with stronger traditional hospitality.
Top 5 Things in Turkey
(1) Visit south-eastern Turkey (Anatolia) which has it all
(2) Hike the valleys in Göreme (Cappadocia)
(3) Visit Ephesus located next to Izmir: a stunning Roman archeological site
(4) Hike one of many paths in Antalya
(5) Spend an (extended) weekend in Istanbul
Itinerary
This nature and history 3-4 week route combines some of the highlights of Turkey:
(1) Cappadocia (Göreme)
(2) the historical places (Nemrut Dagi, Midyat, Mardin, Sanliurfa) and large cities (Gaziantep, Hatay) in the south east
(3) some bucket list items (Ephesus, Pamukkale) on the west side
If you have less time, you can do only one or two sections of those combined with a short stay in Istanbul, Izmir or Bodrum. If you are short of time, fly out after Sanliurfa or Gaziantep instead of Hatay.
Transportation
Excellent: air, long-distance coach / bus, minibus (dolmus) and train connections abundant.
At the TCDD (Turkish Railways) stations, beware of the long lines 15-30mins before your train departure. Come early or, even better, buy the ticket in advance on the TCDD app.
Unfortunately, no trains in the south-eastern Turkey.
You might be taking the Izmir city-Izmir airport-Ephesus-Pamukkale train (yes, the same convenient train). Izmir – Ephesus (2022) and Izmir – Pamukkale (2022) have timetables and other logistics.
Accommodation
Widely available across the whole spectrum from dorms to luxury at a lower price level than the comparable properties in Italy, Spain, Portugal or Greece.
There is an issue with booking.com in Turkey. It is NOT possible to make reservations once inside the country. Alternative local providers include etstur.com or the ets app, which also has additional properties not covered by booking. Alternatively, use a VPN.
Internet
Wifi widely available in hotels and hostels, speeds can vary. Working (including Zoom, etc.) is usually possible in most accommodations. It is usually free but some all-inclusive hotels in Antalya are charging outrageous fees per day or week. Daily fees of EUR 10 per day have been reported.
Wifi might be available in some public places (e.g., airports) but might require a text confirmation with a code sent to your phone. Caution: Some venues accept only a Turkish phone number.
Getting a local SIM is quick with Turkcell offering the broadest coverage. Packages vary across providers, shop around for the current best offer.
Overall Tips
(1) Bring cash. USD and EUR have the best exchange rates. Many private exchange offices, no huge exchange rate differences among them (exception: airports). The process is straightforward. Go to cash teller, who will change the money on the spot. No special tourist forms to fill. Cash is predominantly used with credit cards more popular at the high-end hotels.
(2) Don’t change all in one go. The inflation in Turkey is exorbitant with some official and unofficial estimates of 40-100% per year. It is possible that during your two-week stay the Turkish lira will plunge again.
During our 4 week trip, the local currency depreciated by about 10% against the USD or EUR. In other words, your stay becomes 10% cheaper across hotels, restaurants and shops.
Costs
Excellent price-value country. Similar hotels, restaurants or transport in Greece, Cyprus, Spain or Portugal are easily 2-3 times more expensive. A typical hostel or homestay costs around $10 with mid-range hotels $15-20. A local meal will be $1-2 and $5-10 in mid-range restaurants. A city minibus (“dolmus”) will be $0.30-0.50 with longer distances $2-3. Long-distance coaches or buses are $5-10.
Turkey Overall Rating
Recommended, especially Cappadocia and Anatolia.
Turkey is frequently equalized with the all-inclusive hotels. It is somewhat true. Their development has been a phenomenal success for the country. However, leave them to the millions of sun-starved Europeans.
So ake a bus or fly and you will find countless tranquil and stunning places with few or no foreign tourists.
But Turkey is a bit like India (of the “Incredible India” fame). Yes, it is interesting, but you will want a break and visit other countries before you return.
