Algeria

Algeria travel guide

This Algeria travel guide has the following sections below:

Why Visit

It is surprising that so few foreign tourists are visiting Algeria. Really, the country has so many advantages to offer. Roman monuments. An atmospheric French-looking capital of Algiers. Mediterranean coast. Mountains in the interior. Sunny and warm weather. Friendly people, especially the Tuareg in the Sahara, where hospitality is an integral component of the their culture.

However, this is still off the beaten path destination. It will take longer to travel and the tourist infrastructure is still developing. Definitely NOT as easy as a trip in Morocco, Jordan or Egypt.

Sahara (this Algeria travel guide favorite)

However, first and foremost, Algeria has an amazing desert. Not just the miles and miles of sand as in Egypt or Morocco, which are impressive nevertheless.

The south of the country is in the middle of the mighty Sahara. And this is the Sahara of incredible variety. Hundreds of miles of white sand until the horizon in every direction. Huge rock formations several floors high resembling NYC mid-rise buildings. Photogenic rock arches. Volcanos in the middle of the desert. Sudden oasis with natural water sources. Canyons with towering cliffs and dry waterfalls. Towering dunes. Pre-historic art similar to Uluru (Ayers Rock) in Australia or other African countries.

Of course, you will probably never forget the freshly-caught sardines grilled next to the fishing boat in the Algiers harbor, while sitting on the beach in the sun. But you will probably come here for the Sahara. A truly unique experience, which supposedly is matched only by the desert in the neighboring Niger or Mali (both still on our travel wish list).

Unlikely you will forget the sunrise in Tadrart or Tassili N’Ajjer around Djanet anytime soon. Or the best couscous cooked by your Tuareg guide on the fire near Tadrart. It was the cheapest bag of couscous purchased in a tiny shop in Djanet. However, after walking for hours in the Sahara sun, the best we have ever had.

Only some French tourists

Moreover, very few tourists. This is a rare country where there are still no tour buses everywhere. In addition, you still greet and talk to another foreign visitor as a bit of novelty in the south of the country.

Most tourists come from France because of the historical connections. Contrary to other possessions, Algeria was not a French protectorate but an integral part of France. Northern Algeria (Algiers, Oran, Constantine) was organized into overseas departments, with representatives in the French National Assembly. Pretty incredible that one hundred years ago you would be walking in France here. However, the 1830-1962 French presence in Algeria included decades of wars and revolts, including the long and brutal 1954-1962 War of Independence.

Also, Algeria is relatively wealthy with good infrastructure in the north, thanks to its gas reserves. Unfortunately this means that the price levels are higher than in the neighboring Morocco. Secondly, with abundant gas revenues the Algerian government seems not to have made a major push in developing tourism.

Is now the time to visit Algeria?

Given the country is so attractive and unspoilt, the question is if to visit now.

Yes, the country has had its safety and security issues, which you might have watched or read about over the years. Arguably the situation is better than before.

However, not an easy decision and you will have to make up your own mind if now is the right moment for you to visit Algeria. Given the attractiveness of the country, you will probably visit it at some timepoint anyway. But is now the right time?

Algeria in Numbers

Population: 45 million

Capital: Algiers

Language: Arabic and Tamazight (Berber) (French still popular especially among the older populations, English among the younger people)

Currency: Algerian dinar (DZD)

Exchange rate (November 2022): USD 1 = DZD 140, EUR 1 = DZD 139, GBP 1 = 162

Electricity: standard European 230V with 50Hz frequency, standard European plugs

Covid-19 Restrictions

As the Covid-19 restrictions have been changing frequently, beyond this Algeria travel guide please check them before your departure. Nobody wants to be delayed at the airport because of another certificate required.

The Covid-19 regulations in Algeria were recently updated on 20 March 2022. You will have to prove your vaccination status upon arrival. This applies to all airports, ports, and land borders.

The following vaccinations are currently available in Algeria: Sinovac, Sinopharm, Sputnik, Astra Zeneca and Johnson&Johnson.

However, the Algerian authorities accept all vaccines administered abroad, including Moderna and Pfizer.

Always have your paper vaccination certificates as a backup, if the electronic ones are not accepted for any reason.

Since 20 March 2022 you do not have to show a negative Covid-19 test (PCR or antigen) if you are vaccinated.

You will have to fill out a “Healthcare Sheet” similar to probably many that you might have completed on your trips earlier. “Fiche Sanitaire” can be done in Arabic, French and English.

The link to the Fiche Sanitaire on the Air Algerie website is:

https://airalgerie.dz/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/fiche-sanitaire.pdf

If you are not vaccinated, you will have to show a negative PCR test taken within 72 hours before arrival in Algeria. The test certificate has to be in Arabic, French or English.

Visas

Required and cumbersome to get. No visa on arrival (VOA). Apply at the local embassy.

It will be easier and quicker to get an Algerian visa if you submit an invitation and a proof of paid accommodation.

It can still take 3-4 weeks to get your visa. Visa costs $40-80 depending on your nationality.

It is valid from the date of issue, plan accordingly.

When to Visit Algeria

If you are going to Sahara in the south, October – February are the best. The day temperatures will be 20-30C, sunny and clear skies. Especially in December it can get cold at night (2-5C).

As the Sahara sand and rocks emit the day heat quickly, it might be really freezing and windy if you decide to celebrate New Year’s around Djanet or Tamanrasset (as we might have done). You will greet the upcoming year in hats, gloves, scarves, and blankets huddling over the fire, while your Tuareg guide is looking at you with polite amusement. Definitely a memorable New Year’s for a long time.

Safety

Sadly, Algeria has had safety and security issues, some also involving the foreign tourists. This Algeria travel guide recommends checking the security situation before your departure.

When going to the desert in the south of the country, you will absolutely need a guide.

Please check the current travel advice in your country. The UK or US websites are pretty informative and updated.

As of November 2022 if you are going to Sahara, the options are a bit limited. Tamanrasset is safe but the stunning Assekrem is largely off-limits to tourists. According to our guide, any tours are limited to two days per week (Wednesday, Sunday) with military escort during daytime hours only.

However, Djanet is open with unrestricted multi-day trips with no military escort permitted. Excellent news as you can visit the impressive Tadrart.

Top 5 Things in Algeria

Probably every Algeria travel guide should have a list of top destinations. Here is my attempt following interest in Sahara, history and local culture.

(1) Go on a tour of the Sahara around Djanet or Tamanrasset

(2) Visit the impressive Roman ruins in Timgad, Djemila or Tipaza

(3) Wander around the picturesque Ghardaia, a UNESCO World Heritage site

(4) Arrive in a French Belle Epoque railway station in Setif and enjoy an amazing seven-course dinner on the antique French china plates

(5) Stay for a day or two at the oasis of Taghit

Transportation

Good connections in the north, long bus or car rides (4-10 hours). Fly when going to the Sahara.

Air Algeria, ah, the story of stories. The only connection to Djanet so you will become closely acquainted with the national airline of Algeria. Our experience was that the timetable was a high-level suggestion for those flight departing around or after midnight. All local passengers took it in stride, dozing around. And then, a small miracle, happened. A 3am, without any announcement, all guests suddenly woke up, stood up and approached the boarding gate within literally 60 seconds. We departed shortly afterwards, everybody, including the airport ground staff, very happy.

Buses are widely available but the distances are long, the buses are not the most comfortable, official timetables frequently do not exist and tickets are often not available online. However, you can travel through a sizeable part of the country for $10-15.

Trains are widespread in the north. They are pretty comfortable and inexpensive as well. If you are going to Setif, take the train and arrive in the XIX century France.

Car rental is a good option in the north. The highways are good and the petrol is cheap compared with the US or Europe. However, driving in large cities is not for the tourists uninitiated in the Algerian driving styles, especially at night. In addition, parking in larger cities is frequently a nightmare.

Accommodation

Given low tourist numbers, the hotel infrastructure is still developing. The price-value relationship not as good as in the excellent Marrakesh riads in the neighboring Morocco.

Given its gas reserves and revenues, Algeria is more expensive than the neighboring Morocco. Budget hotels are $25-50, mid-range are $50-150.

Food (this Algeria travel guide favorite topic)

Algeria was part of the Ottomon empire for 300 years, was colonized by France for 132, has a Mediterranean coast, and has different Arab and Berber cuisines. In short, a wide variety of seafood, casseroles, hearty winter dishes (e.g., dobara, al-shetitha, berkoukes), Saharan food, and Turkish-originated baklava (e.g., makroud, djouzia). You will encounter couscous everywhere, including Air Algeria’s loving nickname “Air Couscous”.

Breakfast in many tourist accommodations will include shakshouka, also popular in many neighboring countries. This dish of eggs with tomato sauce with peppers and onions and freshly-baked bread is usually amazing.

Lunch and dinner might see a popular street food dish of mahjouba (a pancake with tomatoes and onions), biskwejina (Algerian pizza), tajine or the inevitable burger with fries. All with harissa, a local spicy sauce.

The traditional Tuareg tea is excellent, especially over a crackling fire in your Sahara camp. This is a tea making ritual demonstrating host’s hospitality and creating a communal spirit. After boiling the water in a kettle (which might be 50 years old thus adding to the allure) over the fire, the tea will be poured and repoured several times.

The Tuareg tea will probably be sweet and with aromatic mint. It is customary to drink three cups of tea in succession as a gesture of politeness. According to the Tuareg tradition, the first tea will be bitter like life, the second one sweet as love, and the last one would be suave like death. A favorite part of the day in the chilly December evening, mesmerizing in the light of your camp fire.

Also, alcoholic beverages are available in the north especially in the higher-end hotels and bars.

Internet

Wifi widely available in hotels and hostels, speeds can vary. Working (including Zoom, etc.) is not always possible but it is usually free.

Getting a local SIM is quick with Jezzy or Oredoo offering decent coverage.

Overall Tips

(1) Bring cash. USD and EUR have the best exchange rates. There are ATMs especially in the north of the country, but treat them as a backup. It is not uncommon for tourists to have their cards rejected. You do not want to run out of money in a small village 7 hours away from Algiers. Credit cards are accepted in upmarket hotels and larger towns.

(2) Please note there is an official exchange rate used in ATMs and the unofficial one used when exchanging cash.

(3) Drones are banned in Algeria, unless you have an official permit. Regrettably, no photos from the air in Djanet or Tamanrasset.

Costs

Given its gas reserves and revenues, Algeria is more expensive than the neighboring Morocco. Budget hotels are $25-50, mid-range are $50-150.

A local Algerian street food will be less than $5 with around $10 in mid-range restaurants. Alcohol is available especially in higher-end tourist hotels and bars.

Algeria Overall Rating

Highly recommended.

An off the beaten path destination and unspoilt by millions of tourists. Visit when the safety conditions are met.

MORE INFORMATION ABOUT ALGERIA

Sahara trip from Djanet in southern Algeria. Best visited Oct-Feb, otherwise 40-50C daily are normal. Two loops: northern Tassili N'Ajjer 2-3 days or southern Tadrart 4-6 days. Tadrart is even more stunning than Tassili N'Ajjer.
Djanet

WHERE TO GO NEXT

Beyond this Algeria travel guide and after your Sahara fix, consider Indonesia for a totally different experience. 17,000 islands, amazing snorkelling and diving and a Komodo tour. Mt Rinjani (Lombok) Hike, Bali temples and centuries-old traditions (Body Cleansing Ceremony (Bali) and Bena Traditional Village (Flores)).

Or make plans for Uzbekistan and its stunning Silk Road cities of Samarkand and Bukhara. Combine it with mountains and lakes in Kyrgyzstan.

For a list of places with lesser crowds (and how to avoid them): Avoid Crowds When Travelling – Top 21 Tips (2022).

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