This Gaziantep travel guide has the following sections:
Why visit?
Welcome to the best food in Turkey! Widely considered the foodies heaven by other cities in Turkey, especially in the western part of the country. Even the humble Antep kebab on the street corner at 10pm is usually excellent.
After Gaziantep, if you visit other cities in Turkey, and mention that you have dined in Gaziantep, you will probably be treated as a minor celebrity. As such you might authoritatively judge the local kebab, lahmacun or pide.
Gaziantep is also famous for its pistachios considered to be some of the best in the country. All over Turkey you will see baklava, chocolate or ice cream described “with Gaziantep pistachios” (“Antep fistik”). There is also a local sweet desert katmer, which is lovingly mentioned all over Turkey.
Of course, there is an impressive citadel on the mountain top elegantly illuminated at night and countless mosques. For the history fans, one of the major draws to Antep is the Zeugma mosaics museum. It has one of the best collections of Roman and Byzantine mosaics in the world competing with Bardo in Tunisia.
Even if you are usually not into museums, please visit Zeugma, if only to see how the ancient Roman and Byzantines lived. In my opinion, impressive with outstanding presentation, more memorable than Pompeii or Herculaneum in Italy.
Just for those two reasons, this Gaziantep travel guide is planning to return.
How to get there?
Gaziantep, the sixth most populated city in Turkey, is well connected with all major cities in the region and Ankara / Istanbul. One of my favorite bus companies in Turkey, Ben Turizm, has its hub here. In my experience, it has been clean and punctual with strong wifi.
The long-distance bus / dolmus station is located 6 kms from the city center. There are taxis and many city buses departing frequently.
A taxi cost $2 and a city bus $0.30 in September 2022. For the city buses you will have to cross the main otogar building and walk through parking lot to the main road. The closest stop is immediately on the left. City buses accept credit cards.
Where to stay in Antep?
Antep has many accommodation options. The Utku Bey hotel is located in the city center next to the bazaar. My room was modern, clean, with a strong air conditioning and a nice city view from the top floor. Sumptuous breakfast, nice staff happy to share recommendations. Recommended.
What to do there?
Take it easy and enjoy it. You were sitting on several overnight coach rides. Hiked in the Cappadocia valleys. Getting burnt by the relentless sun in Ephesus or Troy. Trekking around the Van lake.
“Food capital of the world”?
It is time to rest and indulge the weary body. And what better place than Antep, which even UNESCO recognized for its remarkable food? Some even call it “the food capital of the world”.
Kyoto, Tokyo, Bangkok, Xian, New York, Bologna, Paris, Lyon or the Scandinavian vegan places might disagree, but the food is definitely outstanding in Antep.
And at incredible prices for this quality. It seems the benchmark across the city is very high fuelling the competition. It will be difficult to have a bad and overpriced meal here.
Zeugma
In addition, the Zeugma mosaics museum ( https://muze.gov.tr/muze-detay?SectionId=GZN01&DistId=GZN ) in Gaziantep is also not to be missed. Even if you have seen the mosaics in the Mosaics Museum in Sanliurfa or Hatay, Zeugma is on a different level.
It is the biggest Roman mosaics museum in the world with 1700 m2. More importantly, their quality is superb. The original detail is impressive, the colors are well preserved and the exhibition is well-lit and -arranged.
Those must have been wealthy mansions to afford this level of artistic workmanship.
Here you will see the famous “portrait of a Gypsy girl”, which is displayed on many Gaziantep or Turkey advertisements, and also above. However, some art historians believe not Gypsy and not a girl but Alexander the Great.
In any case, if you are going to see only one mosaics museum in Turkey, make it Zeugma.
The museum was opened in 2011 and is one of many airy, well-designed and well-lit institutions with good air-conditioning (almost a sufficient reason to visit in the summer).
It is outside of the old city next to a busy highway. A 30 minute walk from the old city, but not recommended in the hot weather. Secondly, there is not much to see when walking there. A taxi should be around $3 depending on the mood of the driver and your negotiation skills.
Where to eat (this Gaziantep travel guide favorite topic)?
A great dilemma given the excellent choices and the limited number of meals (and calories). Some of the main things to try in Antep:
Antep kebab
It seems every major city in Anatolia has its own kebab flavor (e.g., Urfa, Adana) and Gaziantep is competing for the best kebab crown as well. The kebabs here are juicy, crunchy and of high-quality. Some of the best were:
Yörem Döner. A family establishment next to the bazaar main street. The owner Ibrahim speaks English, his wife will make a great salad for you, overall a satisfying meal in a friendly setting. Popular with Western tourists.
Piknik Kebab. Excellent meats with home-made Turkish yoghurt (aryan) next to the bazaar area. Outstanding Adana lamb kebab.
Muhsinzade Türk Şiş Kebab. A tiny place inside the bazaar wildly busy with the local bazaar traders. A proverbial hole in the wall, not a setting for a romantic dinner, you will be sitting next to other locals (also families) eating excellent food with friendly people.
This is real stuff. Wobbly plastic chairs. Abundant bowls of spices on the table. No paper menu (even in Turkish). Everybody knows one another.
In the middle of it all will be you, a foreign tourist.
Everybody, including other guests at your table, will try to ensure that you have the best meal in Antep (or the world). This is a place to enjoy a truly local experience, which will be remembered with a smile for a long time.
Definitely try katmer (this Gaziantep travel guide: top desert in Turkey)
Beyran soup (Metanet lokantasi)
An Antep specialty, a traditional spicy breakfast soup made out of rice and lamb meat. Please ask for the standard spicy version, it is better and not excessively spicy. It will be served with bread and lemon to squeeze into the soup.
There are many restaurants serving beyran in Antep. My favorite was Metanet lokantasi, which opens at 5am and was full by 8am mainly with the local families (always a good sign). Metanet seems to be a big operation with the Metanet katmer shop on the other side of street, which was also full of tourists in the morning.
Katmer (Katmerci Cumaali Usta)
An incredible thin pastry filled with cheese, pistachios and some sugar. It is usually eaten at breakfast (or allegedly after the wedding night). In smaller places it is made to order and served straight hot from the oven. Usually a 30cm by 30cm square so it comfortably feeds 3-4 persons.
Katmer places do not usually bake smaller sizes or sell fractions. That might be good or bad from your own perspective. So try a piece of the amazing hot katmer, and ask for the remainder to be packed (standard request). In spite of the ingredients and its size, my katmer was not heavy, greasy or too sugary.
Just delicate and exquisite, with the obligatory water (or, even better, Turkish yoghurt aryan). When walking around, you will see many katmer places in the old town.
However, my favorite was Katmerci Cumaali Usta, next to the citadel, a 15 minute walk from the bazaar. A small family establishment with no menu (nothing but katmer).
$4.50 for the whole serving in September 2022. The price of a muffin in New York.
Even if you are on a diet (and who isn’t?), please try even a tiny piece of katmer when in Gaziantep.
Lahmacun (Gözde Pide Lahmacun)
A Turkish-style very thin-crust pizza with various toppings. Lahmacun is popular in many cities all across Turkey. However, this version at Gözde Pide was sublimely thin, crusty and full of flavor.
When straight from the oven, an excellent light meal (or more substantial if 2-3 lahmacun are ordered as many locals do). The place seems to be constantly full also with families, always an excellent sign.
Where to go next?
Beyond this Gaziantep travel guide, Anatolia offers other interesting historical sites (and more amazing food):
- unique ancient Greek monuments in Nemrut Dagi (Guide to Nemrut Dagi, Turkey (2022))
- Göbekli tepe, a temple complex allegedly 11,000 years old (Sanliurfa and Göbekli tepe (11,000 years old!))
- Mardin, a well-preserved Silk Road town (Mardin: ancient Silk Road town)
- Sanliurfa (Sanliurfa and Göbekli tepe (11,000 years old!))
and outstanding large cities:
- Diyarbakir with the best breakfast in Turkey (Diyarbakir)
- Hatay with a distinct Arabic influence (Hatay: kunefe desert and Greek mosaics)
For the overall guide to southern Turkey: Guide to Southern Turkey (Anatolia): Why Visit / Itinerary.
In addition to this Gazinatep travel guide, please check other destinations to visit without crowds: Avoid Crowds When Travelling – Top 21 Tips (2022).
