After your hikes in Kyrgyzstan or Tajikistan, you might want to rest and recuperate your beaten-up body. It has served you well through all those hikes, nights at the cold tent, cold (or no) showers, the punishing Pamir highway schedule or the ten hour marshrutka rides, and the unavoidable stomach problems. It does deserve some appreciation, reward and rest. You might consider a day (or two) at a Soviet-era wellness center and spa. It will be a new quirky experience to add to the Kyrgyzstan memories and your body will pay back with more energy and strength. In short, go to the sanatorium next to the Jeti Oguz mountains.
You can combine your spa visit with some more magnificent mountains in the area. Good news, they will be easy and picturesque without straining your body.
But what is a “sanatorium”?
On a historical note, all of the Soviet bloc was big into health of its citizens and workers. A healthy and well-rested worker was an official objective. The former leader of the Soviet Union, Josef Stalin, included the “right to rest” in the 1936 constitution. From the on, all Soviet workers would obtain two weeks of holiday to rest and recuperate to return reinvigorated to continue their work. The interesting point was that this holiday was supposed to focus on both improving the physical health, but also on pursuing interests and knowledge of the Soviet workers. Therefore, hundreds of health holiday complexes (“sanatoriums”) were constructed over the decades. They were considered one of the highlights of the Soviet health system and an integral component of workers’ lives.
Jeti Oguz is an excellent example of this phenomenon. Constructed in 1937 in a stunning mountain setting, the sanatorium is one of the few remaining ones still in operation today. Yes, it is pretty drab and unmodernized but offers a peak into an era long gone, while doing something good to your body. In other words, imagine going to a spa, which has not been modernized for years. On the other hand, this will be definitely the cheapest spa which you have been to, or will go to in the future. Guaranteed. In 2022 most treatments were KGS 150-200 ($1.90 – $2.50). An excellent professional 60-minute massage for KGS 600-1,000 ($7-12). Try that in New York, London or Dubai.
When to go to Jeti Oguz Kurort?
Given the 3,000m elevation and the corresponding temperature drop, the peak tourist season is June-August. This is when the temperatures will hover around 25C during the day and 10-15C at night. The winter is long and cold with the Jeti Oguz sanatorium closing down in December-March.
How to get there?
Part of the charm is that there are not many people around. The price to pay for that is that it takes a long time to get there. After the pandemic few trekker groups visit as part of the longer Kyrgyzstan tours, so you will enjoy the mountain tranquility. Jeti Oguz is well known in Kyrgyzstan and there are some existing transport connections, so you do not have to go in an expensive (shared) taxi all the way.
Jeti Oguz vs Jeti Oguz Kurort
A bit confusingly, Jeti Oguz consists of two separate locations. The first one is the village itself (“Jeti Oguz”). However, you want to go the second location, Jeti Oguz Kurort or the Soviet-era wellness center or spa (“sanatorium” or “kurort”). The entrance to the hikes is at the end of the main road to Jeti Oguz Kurort.
The sanatorium is located 15 kms away from the village. Please be clear which Jeti Oguz destination you want to go to when talking with the marshrutka or taxi drivers.
How to get from Karakol to Jeti Oguz Kurort?
From Karakol’s bazaar bus station you might take marshrutka #355 to Jeti Oguz village. In spite of the sign saying “KURORT” (“КУРОРТ” in Russian), marshrutkas might not be going to Kurort (Sanatorium). Its final stop is the village, as there are not enough passengers willing to go to the kurort.
So the best choice is to go the village and then hire a taxi (KGS 200 / $2.50 for the entire car). Alternatively, you can try to hitchhike (certainly doable but waiting time will be longer after the morning rush to the village). A single seat in the Karakol-Jeti Oguz village was KGS40 ($0.50) and took 30 mins. The #355 marshrutka was leaving on the set hour at full hours (or earlier if all seats taken). Again, the price list in the minibus includes the kurort at KGS 100 ($1.25) but the marshrutka is unfortunately not going that far.
On the way back, there is a single marshrutka from the sanatorium to Bishkek per day leaving at 7:00am from the street next to the sanatorium. You will not miss it as there will be no other minibuses there.
Where to stay?
Kurort is a sleepy village with a few small shops, restaurants located in yurts and homestays. The accommodations options are the private homestays along the stream.
When coming to the Kurort you will see a few houses on the right hand side (there will also be four shops on the left hand side). All those houses offer rooms or beds. The standard is largely the same at KGS400-500 ($5-6.25) per person per night. Expect some warm water and unstable wifi, if any. Usually no breakfast. The sound of the stream flowing by is nice and soothing at night.
How to get treatments at the sanatorium?
Signing up for the treatments at the Jeti Oguz Kurort consists of several steps below. If you speak some Russian, it will be easier, but perfectly doable without it as well.
First of all, good news. As a foreign tourist you will be appreciated that you came all the way and want to try the sanatorium treatments. The sanatorium staff is rightfully proud of their skills and treatments, and will want to demonstrate their best to you. There have already been many guests from all over the world. They have all managed to sign up, communicate and have a good time when you read the earlier reviews. You will and you will have a good time.
(1) Go to the biggest building
Arrive at the main sanatorium building and enter the main hall with the registration area.
(2) Go to the registration area
There will be two registration glass-wall offices immediately to your slight left. Go to the right one with the administrator there. This gentleman speaks English, is very nice and will help you with the overall process. He will explain the Jeti Oguz sanatorium and the available treatments plus accommodation.
(3) Book your treatments
The first step to book your treatments will be to see a doctor. The friendly administrator, who speaks fluent English, will take you to the chief doctor (“glavniy vratch”). His office is located on the second floor (US counting) or first floor (European counting).
He will ask you about your ailments (if any) and check you up (pulse, lungs, etc.). He will then propose a course of treatments and you will have an opportunity to discuss and adjust them if necessary.
There are many treatments which largely might be grouped into five groups. (a) Water-based (radon baths or pool, which is Jeti Oguz’s specialty and reason for fame). (b) Mechanical (e.g., warming wax for your joints or muscles – helpful and divine). (c) Electrical (applying low level current to the joints or muscles, not as scary as it sounds and helpful in my case). (d) Massage (an all-time favorite for everybody) and (e) gynecological.
I tried warm wax (“parapheen”), current (“gryaz”) and all-body massage (“massage”). After my ankle injury in the mountains they did help a lot. Also, after some hikes who does not like to lie down on a soft bed with clean sheets and be pampered?
You will receive your medical record indicating the treatments per day. You will then proceed to the cash teller on the same floor immediately to your right and pay for your treatments. I paid cash and did not try paying by a credit card. The 2022 list of available procedures with the corresponding prices is attached.
(4) Pay for the treatments at the registration
You will return to the administrator below who will then describe the location of your treatments and answer any questions.
(5) Get your treatments
Most people obtain them in the morning, though you might get them in the afternoon as well. In my case the wax and current treatments were on the second floor (US counting) and the massage on the first floor next to the registration office. All staff was exceedingly kind and helpful running an efficient operation. Disregarding the slightly dilapidated building, the treatments were professional and helped my ankle.
What to do next?
After your treatment, go for some easy hikes in the area: Jeti Oguz.
If you are traveling to Uzbekistan, Uzbekistan – Kyrgyzstan border at Dostyk describes this straightforward border.
When going to Kazakhstan, How to cross the Kyrgyzstan – Kazakhstan border at Korday will help.
The overall Kyrgyzstan guide is here: Kyrgyzstan.
