This guide to Samarkand includes why visit, how to get there, how to get around, what to see, where to stay and where to go next.
Why visit Samarkand?
Samarkand is one of the main reasons to visit Uzbekistan. If you are a history fan or not, seeing the main historical plaza (Der Registan) at sunset or seeing its impressive design and workmanship will probably leave a profound impression for months and years. This is truly one of the “bucketlist” destinations, which merits at least one full day and preferably two nights / three days.
In addition, Samarkand has a different feel from Bukhara. Bukhara’s old city is clearly defined and separated from the new city. Walking around Bukhara’s compact old city transports you back a few hundred years. Samarkand is different as it is a regular large city with the historical sites embedded in various locations. Most of them are within 15-30 minute walking distance, with some additional ones within a 10 minute taxi ride. There are only a few key sites embedded in the city but they will make a major impression, no matter how much time you spend there.
How to get to Samarkand?
(1) Fly
The international airport is located only 6km from the city center, a breeze to arrive. Due to the increasing tourist numbers, the airport has steadily expanded the (international) flights since it opened in 1992.
(2) Train
Unless flying in, by the far the most convenient way. The Uzbekistan Railways have significantly upgraded their trains and acquired the new European-manufactured Talgo trains. These Afrosiyob trains are modern, clean, punctual and with good air-conditioning. Unfortunately, in 2022 they did not offer wifi on any connection.
Afrosiyob connects the standard tourist trail of Tashkent – Samarkand – Bukhara. This train has business and economy sections with the competitive pricing (e.g., Tashkent – Bukhara economy of UZS168,000 ($16), Bukhara – Samarkand economy of UZS71,600 ($7)). Those trains are faster and more comfortable than buses or taxis and are accordingly in high demand. During the tourist peak season (spring and fall), you might want to purchase the tickets a few days in advance. Tickets may be bought in person at the train stations, on the web or using the excellent Uzbekistan Railways app. It is intuitive, not crashing, accepting foreign credit cards and can be set to English.
If Afrosiyob is sold out, you would have to take the slower Sharq or “passenger” trains. Unfortunately, they are not significantly cheaper than the Afrosiyob connections.
(3) Coach / Bus
Slower than the train by 1-2 hours with less comfortable seats, the train is clearly preferred to the bus journey. Take it only if there are no train tickets available.
(4) (Shared) taxi
Similarly, a taxi ride will be longer than a train ride with more cramped seats. Take it only if there are no train tickets available.
How to get around?
When arriving at the railway station, there are two options to your hotel and the tourist sites.
(1) Taxi
A one-way ride to the main tourist area around the Registan should not cost more than $3-5.
(2) Samarkand tramway
A modern line 1 will take you to the bazaar and the Registan. The tram departs from the stop 1 minute outside of the railway station to your left when exiting the station. Careful, there are two trams departing from the same stop, you want line 1, which departs approximately every 15 minutes. Buy the ticket from the driver or there will be a ticket collector in the carriage. The ticket will be less than $0.50.
If you have heavy luggage, take a taxi.
What to see in Samarkand?
(1) Registan, the main Samarkand attraction
Photos of the Registan are probably the most famous pictures of Uzbekistan, and with a good reason. The site is stunning, both in its overall arrangement, the well-proportioned buildings, and the outstanding external and internal mosaics. It is the main historical square with the three impressive Quran schools (madrassah): Tillya-Kori, Sherdor and Ulugh-beg. Every one is outstanding, but Tillya-Kori (“decorated with gold”) has especially amazing intricate designs. Sherdor has interesting Zoroaster elements not usually present in other madrassah (e.g., tiger / deer / sun motifs). All have rich mosaics both inside and outside, which are changing color during the day. Probably at least an hour to visit the square.
entry ticket
In 2022 a one-time entry ticket to Registan and all three madrassah is UZS 50,000. The ticket has a unique QR code which has to be read on turnstiles to gain entry. Unfortunately, this QR code is valid only for a one-off entry. If you want to come back later the same day for the sunset, unfortunately you will have to purchase another ticket. You might have some thoughts about this approach, but that is the status as of 2022. There is an open platform, which is facing (and is fenced off from) the plaza and which is free of charge. Hundreds of locals and tourists will be in the plaza and on the benches around, and you will hear all the languages around.
when to visit registan?
You can enter Registan between 8am and 11pm (6pm on Tuesday). If you want to visit each madrassah, the best time in the summer is to arrive at 8am when (a) it is still relatively cool, and (b) there are few tourists. In other words, there might be some tourists, but the large tour groups seem to be arriving later. This is the time if you want to have those monuments largely to yourself.
The second popular timepoint is at sunset when the lights are being turned on and Registan is being illuminated. There will be many locals and tourists arriving around this time but the views (and the photos) are impressive.
There is a “music and lights show” on Sunday evenings including Uzbek music with colorful lights. Some will love it, some might have a disco feeling. There is an elegant neutral lighting on the remaining days.
(2) Shah-i-Zinda mausoleum complex
Approximately 15 minutes walking distance away, the Shah-i-Zinda is a group of tomb buildings dedicated to the earlier rulers. It has a feel a bit similar to the Valley of the Kings in Egypt, except that those are a few thousand years younger, not underground and closely located to one another. Fortunately, only one entry ticket for all of them.
(3) Bibi-Khanym Mosque
Another impressive mosque and mausoleum buildings. However, many tourists skip visiting the inside past the ticket gate as there is little to see inside.
(4) Amir Temur Mausoleum Gur-i-Amir complex
This is the 15th century mausoleum of the great conqueror Timur, who is an integral part of the Uzbek history. Unfortunately, the site was under extensive renovation in 2022 with few tourists and guides around.
(5) Observatory of Ulugbek
Ulugh bek was an outstanding 15th century astronomer and mathematician, and also the governor of Samarkand in his spare time. In short, a great mind who also built the Ulugh-bek madrassah at the Registan. This site was also under construction with few tourists making the trip up north (15 minutes by taxi).
(6) Hazrat Khizr Mosque
This is a small and active mosque with many local families coming to pray. A very atmospheric area perfect for a quick rest on the way to Shah-i-Zinda, just across the Siab Bazaar. It offers excellent views towards the Bibi-Khanym Mosque.
(7) Countless additional mosques and madrassah
If you are still not tired after the earlier magnificent monuments, there are many additional ones. They include Mechet Koraboy Oksokol (across Bibi-Khanym, a small mosque but with and excellent blue-glazed dome), Abu Mansura Maturidi’s mausoleum or Maqbira prophet hazrat Daniyal (a religious site).
All of the main site are currently charging entry fees ranging UZS 20,000 – 50,000 in 2022 ($2 – 5). Most are operating the turnstiles with the one-off QR codes.
Where to stay in Samarkand?
I stayed at the Hotel Han, 5 mins walking distance from the Registan. It is located in a residential area with mainly local shops, restaurants and bakeries. You will see children playing on the street, men drinking tea in front of their houses, or sellers offering the freshly-baked bread and amazing fruits. Overall a safe area with no issues even when walking at night.
Hotel Han has an internal courtyard with a large eating area, where guests eat sumptuous breakfast. The owner speaks excellent English and is happy to help with any questions you might have. He will also order a taxi for you, walk with you and put you into the right vehicle. In addition, he will also mention a friendly piece advice to the taxi driver to take the straight route and not create any issues.
The rooms are modern with strong hot water, Western-style toilets, and comfortable beds. Highly recommended.
Where to go next?
Bukhara and Khiva are the other two stunning historic sites in Uzbekistan. Samarkand is also a convenient start for the crossing into Tajikistan and its magnificent Fann mountains.
How to cross the Uzbekistan – Tajikistan border describes the Samarkand-Penjakent border crossing.
If you are going to Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan – Kyrgyzstan border at Dostyk will help.
