Come to Diyarbakir for the historic city, and you will remember it as the city with the best breakfast in Turkey. This guide to includes why go there, how to get there, where to stay, what to do, where to eat (serious business in this city!), and where to go next.
Why visit Diyarbakir?
Diyarbakir is the largest city in south-eastern Turkey next to the mighty Tigris river. It is considered by some to be the most beautiful city in the region. The old city, which is clearly defined by the imposing miles of antique walls, is a little run down, but has a distinct character different from the modern areas even immediately outside the walls. Old mosques and caravanserai. Men congregating in tea houses. Street vendors selling freshest fruits and vegetables. Cats sleeping in the corner next to some old Byzantine stones. The smell of freshly-baked bread and donuts (“simit”) wafting in the air.
All this makes for an unhurried exploration concentrated on the flow of life, and enjoying an excellent breakfast or coffee in one of the merchants’ old houses converted to lovely artsy cafes. In short, a delightful destination for a few days to enjoy life with no pressure to scale another mountain, spend hours in a museum or bungy-jump a bridge.
How to get to there?
The transportation is excellent also in Diyarbakir with long-distance coaches and minibuses (dolmus) to all main cities. Sanliurfa is 2 hours 30 minutes away, a relatively short ride given the distances in Turkey. There are several good local coach companies including Öz Diyarbakir, Özlem Diyarbakir or Star Diyarbakir. In my experience, the Öz Diyarbakir coaches were on time, clean, with wifi working and the comfortable 2+1 seating.
The main bus station (“otogar”) is not close to the city center but 10 km away. The usual choice of a taxi (a few $ if you do not get overcharged) or a city minibus (dolmus) are plentiful.
If opting for the dolmus, you will have to exit the bus station through the main gate where your coach has entered, and immediately turn right. Walk to the next roundabout for about 5 minutes, the dolmus stop is diagonally across the roundabout. The next dolmus will be probably in a few minutes at most, the journey to old town will take, depending on traffic, 15-20 minutes. For the old town get off at the roundabout next to the old town (Mountain Gate or Diyarbakir Surlari). If unsure, please ask the fellow passangers who will politely help. A one-way ride was $0.30 in September 2022. The old town is compact and walkable and most destinations might be reached within 10-15 minutes.
Where to stay in Diyarbakir?
Many choices exist in Diyarbakir’s old town, where most tourists tend to stay. There are bigger modern hotels attracting tour groups or smaller establishments. However, I liked the Köprücü Hotel: one minute walking from the roundabout where you might get off from the bus station, on the main road across the Nebi Cami mosque. My room was impeccably clean with daily refresh, the bed was comfortable, the air conditioning worked well, there was a traditional Turkish healthy breakfast, and the reception staff was friendly. All that at a good price point, what’s not to like?
What to do there?
Diyarbakir was a major trading town in the Roman/Byzantine and Islamic times and generated considerable wealth visible in the city walls, mosques, caravanserai and houses converted to cafes. The main sites include:
(1) Ulu Cami, the main mosque
Formerly a Christian cathedral, this large building complex is entered through a single wooden gate. At sunrise (or sunset) hugely peaceful and atmospheric. Diyarbakir became a Muslim city in 639 and the former Saint Thomas cathedral was converted into the city’s main mosque.
The current mosque was, however, rebuilt in the 1090s. You can still see some of the earlier Roman influence (e.g., Corinthian columns from the local Roman amphitheater). You will also see some Arabic inscriptions, which were later added to the Roman elements. There is also an interesting sundial on one of the ablution fountains in the middle of the mosque. It was designed by a 13th-century engineer Al Jazari, one of the most respected engineers of the Islamic world.
Ulu Cami is also interesting because its courtyard has four clearly-defined sides, which represent the four different schools of Sunni Islam: Hanafi, Maliki, Shafi’i and Hanbali. Diyarbakir is mainly Hanafi.
(2) City walls around Diyarbakir’s old town
They are 5.7 kms in length making them the second-longest wall in the world after the Great Wall of China! They were constructed in the 4th century AD by the Roman emperor Constantius II with later additions and modifications. A walk along the city walls away from the main gate will show the impressive well-preserved sections with Roman (imperial eagles) and Islamic engravings. A word of caution: do not attempt this walk in the summer heat (as truly yours might have done), as there are sections with no shade in direct sunlight. Also, it is not advisable to walk the city walls or enter their individual towers for safety reasons.
(3) The Citadel
Many things to see here. A well-preserved section of the city walls with a museum. An interesting active Prophet Süleyman-Nasiriye Mosque. A tree-lined park in front with the local families. Impressive views from the walls towards the river and the plains. There is a the partially-reconstructed Saint George church. Its dome does not exist anymore but even the remainings hint at the scale of the original temple. Especially recommended during sunset.
(4) Caravansarai on the main road opposite the main mosque
Currently a booming place for cafes, shops and souvenirs. The architecture is lovely but it had a distinct over-touristed factor.
(5) Small cafes or restaurants in the renovated merchants’ homes
They are 2-5 minutes away from the main road. Artfully renovated, with internal courtyards, some offering live music. Exquisite with trees, small fountains and period furniture. They usually serve excellent breakfast (“kahvalti” pronounced “kah-vahl-tuh”), coffee, light lunch and dinner. A perfect place to start your day, escape the midday sun and just enjoy the moment (or three). There will be plenty of locals and most likely you will be one of the few (or only) foreigner there. Most probably you will be met with a broad smile and the obligatory question “Do you like Diyarbakir?”. Two magic words in Turkish (“lütfen kahvalti”, “breakfast please”) will produce rows and rows of savory and sweet delicacies, and make your day.
(6) Diyarbakir’s new city
Outside of the old city there is a vibrant new city with lively cafes and restaurants. A completely different feel from the old city, please do not exclude it from your plans.
Where to eat in Diyarbakir?
Eating here is serious business. The quality is high, the competition in town fierce. And the food competition with other Anatolian cities is strong and seems to be a source of local pride. You will eat well here, and only for a few dollars.
(1) Zinciriye Konaği Kahvalti Ve Cafe
This is one of the reasons why Diyarbakir has the best breakfast in Turkey. A traditional breakfast (kahvalti) in a courtyard of a renovated house is guaranteed to be both a culinary and visual experience. I found the Zinciriye Konaği Kahvalti Ve Cafe excellent. It is located next to the main mosque Ulu Cami, exit through the small gate with the wooden door diagonally the main mosque entrance. The restaurant is to your right with the entrance through the small parking lot. A wealthy Islamic house tastefully renovated with trees and plants plus a fountain with period furniture. On the day I visited kahvalti comprised of 25 separate dishes including the Turkish-style scrambled eggs with sausage similar to chorizo and home-made yoghurt. You can stay here for 10 minutes or several hours after all those delicious calories. Just sip tea and marvel at Silk Road’s merchants’ quality of life.
In September 2022 all that for $5 (not a typo).
(2) Diyarbakirevi Kahvalticafe
Another competitor for the best breakfast in Diyarbakir and Turkey. An excellent place in a similar shaded courtyard setting is Diyarbakirevi Kahvalticafe. It is located further down the main road on the opposite side. Smaller portions and less calories but also delicious, all for $4.40. Similarly, few foreign tourists.
(3) Ciğerci Ramazan
Diyarbakir is also famous for its lamb liver kebab (“ciğer kebabi”). It is competing heavily against other cities (e.g., Sanliurfa) for the crown of the best ciğer kebab in Anatolia. There are several contenders for the top spot in Diyarbakir’s old (and new) city as well.
Ciğerci Ramazan is one minute from the main road. This is real stuff: only locals with families (always an excellent sign), no Western tourists, no English menu. Other good signs include a huge grill with appetizing smells, owner working and greeting you when entering, and nice staff. Finally, unlimited bread and salad (try that in New York or London!) with tea served promptly at the end, all excellent for $5 (not a typo again).
The ciğer kebab here is larger than in Sanliurfa with sizable juicy and flavorful chunks.
(4) Sanliurfa Lahmacun ve Pide Evi
Lahmacun is similar to a thin-crust (or very thin-crust) pizza with toppings on top. Straight from the oven piping hot and usually not greasy. It is an excellent appetizer or a meal by itself as served with salad or hot peppers on the side. This place is usually packed with locals, always an excellent sign. For me Sanliurfa Lahmacun ve Pide Evi was one of the best places to try in Diyarbakir. One minute from the main street in a side street.
Where to go next?
Within a few hours bus ride from Diyarbakir, Anatolia offers other interesting historical sites:
- unique ancient Greek monuments in Nemrut Dagi (Guide to Nemrut Dagi, Turkey (2022))
- Göbekli tepe, a temple complex allegedly 11,000 years old (Sanliurfa and Göbekli tepe (11,000 years old!))
- Mardin, a well-preserved Silk Road town (Mardin: ancient Silk Road town)
- Sanliurfa (Sanliurfa and Göbekli tepe (11,000 years old!))
and outstanding large cities:
- Hatay with a distinct Arabic influence (Hatay: kunefe desert and Greek mosaics)
- Gaziantep for the best food in Turkey and impressive Roman mosaics
Also, for the overall guide to southern Turkey: Guide to Southern Turkey (Anatolia): Why Visit / Itinerary
