This southern Spain itinerary for independent travel has the following sections:
Why Visit
If you are looking for an uncomplicated trip in a stable country with rich history, stunning Islamic and Christian buildings, excellent food and nature, and good weather, southern Spain has it all.
As Andalusia was under the Islamic influence for hundreds of years, the remaining architecture and food influences (e.g., baklava) are unique and can compete with some top sites in Uzbekistan, Egypt or Morocco.
The subsequent Spanish influence has created another layer of imposing castles, churches or city buildings with the Islamic elements. At its peak, Spain must have had immense wealth, which was so easily and quickly spent also on the impressive architecture.
Independent travel around here is straightforward. English is widely spoken in tourist areas. Comfortable hotels are available across the whole price spectrum. Trains and buses can be booked on the websites with English options.
When to Visit
Southern Spain is a year-round destination. However, spring and fall are best. Summer is hot with regular 30C+ temperatures.
Winter is more chilly with 10C+ difference between the day and night values. Warm jacket, scarf and hat would be required.
Itinerary
Which cities to visit?
Seville, Cordoba, Granada (for Alhambra) and Malaga are the flagships of southern Spain. The Malaga and Seville airports are easy connections on many European carriers including Ryanair, Easyjet and Wizzair.
Some additional attractive cities include Cadiz, Jerez and Jaén with smaller Baeza and Ubeda. Also, Gibraltar is close nearby if you want to visit this British enclave.
In my experience, Seville has a well-preserved old town, which must have been wealthy for centuries. The royal residence (alcazar) is impressive and, in my opinion, in a better shape than its more famous cousin Alhambra in Granada. The old town will be packed with tourists and locals partying on weekends.
On the other hand, Cordoba has a more relaxed feel with more families walking around the cobbled streets. The main Mezquita cathedral based on the earlier Islamic mosque and its gargantuan prayer hall is stunning. The Islamic depictions of heaven are as impressive as those in Samarkand or Bukhara in Uzbekistan, or Abu Dhabi. In addition, the Roman bridge and the palace ruins are great. Overall, Cordoba is a great option to enjoy at least 3 days and join the local families in a leisurely lunch in one of many excellent tabernas.
Granada is synonymous with Alhambra, the biggest tourist attraction in Spain. Justifiably so, the complex of Islamic Nasrid Palace, the Spanish Palace, the Generalife and Alcazaba is simply grand and should not be missed.
However, beyond Alhambra, you will discover a city of many impressive churches, monasteries and city buildings. At its peak, Granada must have enjoyed an almost unimaginable wealth, which so easily and so quickly was spent on all those buildings.
Itinerary loop
Andalusia cities form a circle so straightforward to select as many cities as your time allows (photo at the top of the page). Huelva, Cadiz, Jerez, Sevilla, Cordoba, Jaen, Ubeda, Baeza, Granada, and Malaga would take a few weeks. All main cities have airports with Sevilla and Malaga the main ones offering also Ryanair, Easyjest and Wizzair connections.
If you are landing in Malaga airport, there are several good bus connections directly from the airport.
(1) Malaga city center EUR4 one way operating 7:00 – 24:00
(2) ALSA bus to cities below. Buy ticket at the ALSA ticket booth outside the terminal building next to the bus stop.
- Granada: EUR 12, 2 hours; 08:00, 08:30, 10:15, 10:45, 11:30, 12:30, 13:30, 16:15, 17:00, 18:30, 19:00, 19:30, 22:45
- Jaen: EUR 22, 08:30, 19:30
- Linares: EUR 27, 13:30
- Almeria: EUR 20, 14:30
- Sevilla: EUR20, 4 hours; 11:30, 16:00 (Monday-Friday and Sunday), 16:45, 19:00
- Cordoba: EUR 13, 15:55
- Almuñecar: EUR 8, 14:30
- Torre del Mar y Nerja: EUR 3 (Torre del Mar), EUR 5 (Nerja), 14:30
(3) Marbella / Estepona / La Linea / Algeciras
Seville
If you are coming to Seville by bus, you will arrive at the “Estacion de Autobuses Plaza de Armas” on the edge of the old town. Many old town hotels are then 10-20 minutes walking distance away. Also, a few supermarkets and eateries are on the way.
Luckily, many of the tourist sites are within walking distance along old streets. Some main interesting places are:
Real Alcazar de Sevilla
The royal palace is one of the true gems in Sevilla, Andalusia and Spain overall. A Moorish palace with additional Spanish elements, and large and well-kept gardens. The palace of King Don Pedro (“Palacio del Rey Don Pedro”) is the most impressive Islamic part. Its gates, wall and ceiling ornaments have been well renovated and are as impressive as the top sites in Samarkand or Bukhara in Uzbekistan.
Beyond the main palace rooms, the Maria de Padilla Bathrooms are simple but impressive with their water reflections. The Spanish part (Gothic Palace) has interesting Spanish tiles with a large Tapestries Hall with high-quality works including a unique map of Europe. Each of those tapestries must have taken decades of man-years and have cost a fortune back then.
Second floor includes Cuarto Real Alto, the royal apartments. Unfortunately, they require separate tickets, which are sold out well in advance.
EUR13.50 entry ticket online in advance or at the ticket office on site (a long line likely in peak tourist months). Highly recommended.
Plaza de España
Hands down, one of the most elegant and beautiful plazas on this planet. Built on a semi-circle design with water elegantly embedded and high-quality workmanship. Arrive as early as possible (sunrise is nice here) as there will be crowds later on.
Also, venture inside the main center section and go up the stairs. Taking the Puerta de Navarra at the back is nice as well.
Free.
Cathedral de Sevilla
Spain has no shortage of magnificent churches and Cathedral de Sevilla is one of the best ones. Gothic design with intricate carvings, designed and constructed with a vision.
Do not miss the tomb of Christopher Columbus or the Bell Tower (“Giralda”) for the city views (34 floors but definitely worth it).
Hospital los Venerables
An unassuming entrance to a lovely serene place. Originally a place for the elderly priests, it has a lovely baroque church with some Velasquez paintings.
A welcome respite from the heat and bustle of the Seville old town outside and only a few minutes from the cathedral and its ever-present crowds.
EUR6 entry ticket, audio guide available and interesting.
Cordoba
Sevilla Plaza de Armas bus station – Cordoba bus station: EUR13, 2 hours. The Cordoba bus station is on the outskirts of the old town 30-40 minute walking distance. Easy and safe walk. ALSA buses were comfortable, punctual and with seat allocation.
Buy ticket online or at the ALSA cash machine at the bus station (cards and cash accepted). Arrive at least 15-20 minutes earlier as there probably will be a queue.
Cordoba train and bus stations are next to each other so easy to transfer.
Mezquita Cathedral de Cordoba
The Mezquita cathedral is the undisputed magnet for the tourists in Cordoba and probably the main reason for the visit. Originally a mosque, it has become a Christian church with some additions (pews in the middle). In any case, rows of the old Roman pillars supporting the Islamic arches are impressive and unforgettable.
The Islamic depiction of the heaven is magnificent and well preserved.
Interesting guided tour. EUR11 cathedral entry ticket. Highly recommended. Best visited at the opening time when it is more tranquil and atmospheric with few tourists around.
Roman bridge
Constructed in the first century AD by the Romans and has served Cordoba over since, including the Game of Thrones movie set. Atmospheric at night, also from the opposite bridge.
Palacio de Viana
Renaissance palace with gardens and patios. A tranquil respite from the heat and crowds. 10am-7pm.
Granada
Cordoba bus station – Granada bus station ALSA bus: EUR16, 2 hours 45 minutes. Buy ticket online or at the ticket machine at the bus station (cards or cash accepted).
Granada bus station to city center: walkable 30-40 minutes through a park, straightforward and safe.
Alhambra
The justifiably undisputed magnet for tourists coming to southern Spain. The complex includes the Islamic Nasrid Palace, the Spanish palace, Generalife and the Alcazaba fortress.
The Islamic part is well preserved, although the original colors have unfortunately faded away. The scale and elegance of the design is magnificent. A subsequent walk in the gardens is excellent, especially in the spring or the fall.
EUR14 entry general entry ticket for all sites. Access to Nasrid Palaces is timed and strictly enforced. If you arrive early, you will wait in a queue until exactly your time. Your code or passport will be scanned to gain entry.
Other parts can be entered at any point during the opening times. Buy ticket online in advance, as availability might be short especially during the top tourist months. Official ticket site below:
https://tickets.alhambra-patronato.es/en/
La Cartuja (Monasterio de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción)
A lavish and tranquil Baroque monastery on the side 20 minutes walking distance away from the city center. The wealth in Spain must have been almost unquantifiable as such monasteries have been built without much apparent attention paid to expense.
Please do not miss the left section humbly called “the most beautiful sacristy in the world”. The Spanish religious paintings in the exhibition rooms on the right side are also interesting.
EUR6 entry ticket, 10am-6pm, few tourists, if any, as away from the main tourist center.
Albaicin walking tour
Albaicin has been traditionally an Arabic part of Granada. A (self-)guided walk takes at least two hours. Or considerably longer if you decide to make more stops, the whole area is atmospheric and more relaxed than in the tourist center below. Definitely climb the Saint Michael Viewpoint which is offering great views of Alhambra, the old town and further up to the mountains.
Walking around is nice, but sitting down for a coffee break in one of many squares is a great Granada experience.
Almost any cathedral, basilica, church or monastery
Again, the wealth in Granada (and Spain overall) must have been extreme, as the city has so many impressive religious buildings in the Granada city center. In addition, they are practically next to each other, with little space in between.
Catedral de Granada, Basilica de San Juan de Dios, Monasterio de San Jeronimo, or Santuario de Nuestra Señora del Perpetuo Socorro Granada are some of the excellent examples. After a few, they will probably all look a bit similar but still impressive.
Future Trips
Huelva, Cadiz, Jerez and Jaen plus the smaller cities of Baeza and Ubeda look interesting.
In addition to Andalusia, other tourists have recommended Segovia, Toledo, Avila, Salamanca and Valladolid.
Beyond this southern Spain itinerary, Samarkand or Bukhara in Uzbekistan also offer top Islamic architecture along the Silk Road. Granada, Seville and Cordoba have more detailed information.
