This Cyprus travel guide covers both the southern and northern parts of the island. It has the following sections below.
- Why Visit
- Cyprus in Numbers
- Covid-19 Restrictions
- Visas
- When to Visit
- Safety
- Hassle Factor
- Top 5 Things in Cyprus
- Transportation
- Accommodation
- Food
- Internet
- Overall Tips
- Costs
- Cyprus Overall Rating
- Where to Go Next
Why Visit
Cyprus is awesome. Not using an over-used adjective but I really think so. This island is stunning, has excellent weather, good food, and great historical sites.
And because of its complex situation, it offers two different cultures within a walking distance. After Berlin was unified, Nicosia is the last divided city in Europe. It is weird and slightly thrilling to cross the Ledra border crossing with the UN forces and watch towers around. Amazingly, all immigration officers on both sides were smiling, polite and helpful. They even told me unsolicited where to go for a good breakfast and lunch.
And in general, people on both sides of the border are nice, hospitable and smiling. And how can you not smile when you live in such a nice place?
Everybody will find something interesting. Good beaches, excellent mountains, Roman archeological sites, Venetian buildings, monasteries, wineries. Even if you want to gamble, the north side has many casinos, which will gladly help you to part with your money.
The southern side seems wealthier with the Nicosia high rises, a sizeable expat community, and marine, accounting, and legal services thriving.
At the first sight, the northern side seems less prosperous, but more “raw” and authentic with its Turkish influence. However, Girne (Kyrenia) is a stunning port town full of Venetian architecture and a great springboard for the local Bellapais monastery or St. Hilarion castle. In any case, food will be excellent here as well (definitely try the breakfast platter). Regardless where you come from, you will be welcome here with a smile.
Finally, southern Cyprus is easily reachable from many European destinations, including the budget airlines of Wizzair, Ryanair and Easyjet. The northern part has an active airport Ercan, but please check your individual circumstances if using that and then travelling to the southern side.
In short, an excellent destination small enough to have day trips anywhere and enjoy all the good life the Mediterranean is offering here.
Cyprus in Numbers
Population: 1.2 million (southern), 0.3 million (northern)
Capital: Nicosia (southern, Lefkosia), Nicosia (northern, Lefkosa)
Language: Greek (southern), Turkish (northern), English widely spoken in tourist areas
Currency: Euro (southern), Turkish Lira (northern)
Exchange rate (January 2023): EUR 1 = USD 1.07, GBP 1 = EUR 1.13 (southern), USD 1 = TRY 18.70, EUR 1 = TRY 20.00, GBP 1 = TRY 22.60 (northern)
Electricity: standard European 230V with 50Hz frequency, standard European plugs
Covid-19 Restrictions
As the Covid-19 requirements have been changing constantly, this Cyprus travel guide recommends checking the current restrictions before you depart for Cyprus AND before you cross the inner-island borders.
As of January 2023, NO Covid-19 restrictions on either side.
NO Covid-19 vaccination certificates requested at the arrival or border crossing.
Also, NO Covid-19 tests (PCR or antigen) requested at the arrival or border crossing.
Visas
This section of any Cyprus travel guide is easy as the entry requirements are relaxed for both parts of the island.
Southern part: no visa required for the EU, US, Canada and other passports
Northern part: no visa required for the EU passports
Unquestionably, the most thrilling border crossing is the Ledra Palace Hotel. Walking distance from Nicosia center, you will be walking past the peace-keeping British military forces, one of the most luxurious hotels before the partition (Ledra Palace Hotel), military observation towers and barren no-man’s land. All within 5 minutes walking distance.
Border guards on both sides are nice and helpful. Given there are not that many tourists, you will probably get tips where to find good food, how to catch a minibus to Girne or how to get back without a detour.
You might be asked where you are going, but probably more because of melancholy and personal interest, and less as a bureaucratic requirement.
On the northern side, there is a blue line painted on the pavement (partially worn off). This is a tourist path, at least in theory. If you follow that you will walk around a lot and see some interesting and some not-so-interesting buildings.
The alternative is to use a GPS map. If you are going to Girne (Kyrenia), which I highly recommend, please just go straight after the passport control to the roundabout. Then turn right and you see the minibus stop with people waiting there. Faster and easier.
When to Visit
Given its excellent climate, Cyprus is a good all year-round destination, especially for the sun-starved northern Europeans. Amazingly, it has 320 sunny days on average with perfect blue sky and clear air.
Spring (April-May) and fall (October-November) are excellent. You will leave the dark and rainy northern hemisphere and enjoy balm temperatures, sunshine and southern hospitality.
Winter is more chilly (relatively speaking, that would be still fall or spring temperatures in northern Europe). The upside is that there will be fewer tourists, except the Christmas period.
Safety
Both sides seem to be very safe. I have not encountered any issues on either side.
Hassle Factor
2/10. Nobody will bother you much on either side of the island. No aggressive hawkers. English is widely spoken in tourist areas on both sides.
Top 5 Things in Cyprus
Even though Cyprus is small, it can keep you busy and experiencing new interesting places for weeks.
Assuming you visit both sides (highly recommended), here is my attempt at the top 5 in Cyprus:
(1) Troodos mountains and villages
(2) Spend 2-3 days in Larnaca (a busy airport with reasonably priced hotels and restaurants on the beach plus historical sites like the church of Saint Lazarus, photo at the top of the page). Close nearby is Aiya Napa (party capital of the south side) or Protaras (same as Aiya Napa but more for families). Alternatively, Paphos with another convenient airport and some interesting archeological excavations (unfortunately, many still covered).
(3) Visit Nicosia and definitely cross to the northern side, even if only on a day trip
(4) Spend 2-3 days in Kyrenia (Girne) on the northern side, and visit the Kyrenia castle, the Bellapais monastery and Karmi (Karaman), a picturesque expat village with renovated houses among the bougainvillea.
Girne (Kyrenia) is a a 60 minute dolmus ride from Lefkosa (northern part of Nicosia), bus stop just outside the old city walls. Departures every approximately 15-30 minutes.
The Bellapais monastery is a 20 minute taxi ride from the Girne center or a 90 minute walk past the English School of Kyrenia. If there is no bus tour, you will likely have it to yourself.
(5) Famagusta (Gazimagusa) and the ancient ruins of Salamis. A 90 minute dolmus ride from Girne (Kyrenia), get off at the Itimat bus stop (final) at the roundabout. Negotiate and get a taxi to Salamis. Depart back for Girne from the same Itimat building (air conditioned, clean bathrooms), fixed time departures.
Transportation
The transportation options are different in the southern and northern parts.
This Cyprus travel guide recommends taking local transportation on both sides. You will meet interesting local people and other tourists, understand the local culture more, and contribute to the local economy.
Southern side
In the Republic of Cyprus (southern part) you will be travelling in modern large Mercedes, Scania or Volvo buses. Same buses, same experience as in Europe. Fixed departure timetables, good air conditioning, luggage goes into the bus hold. You can pay with your credit card and get a paper ticket. Everything seems to be well organized.
Luckily, if you arrive in Larnaca, the Larnaca airport has good local bus connections to the Larnaca city (EUR 1.50 one way). Conveniently, you will arrive at the stop on the main beach promenade and catch a long-distance bus to Limassol or Phapos from the same spot. Waiting for your bus will be quick regardless of the time as you will be next to the Finikoudes beach.
The main bus station in Nicosia on the southern side is in the city center, walking distance from the border.
The Paphos bus station is located outside of the main tourist area. You can walk to the Kings Avenue Mall for 20-25 minutes or take a local bus. The Kings Avenue Mall is at the front of the tourist and historical area of Paphos.
Overall, the southern Cyprus bus schedule and ticket information is below. I found the bus schedules across the whole southern side posted in every major stop helpful (always an English section as well).
https://publictransport.com.cy/
Northern side
The transportation in the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus is different and more in line with the Turkish minibus (“dolmus”). If you are familiar with those, you will immediately feel at home.
Flexibility
A dolmus is a Toyota or Isuzu minibus with the destination showed on the front window, departing from and arriving at a fixed location.
Pretty much everything else is flexible.
You come to the road curb, wave your arm and it will stop pretty much next to you. If it is full or you miss it, no worries. Another one will probably come in a few minutes. You can enjoy a fresh simit sold by the ever-present sellers.
You get in and usually pay when exiting your dolmus. When you want to get off, ask the driver to stop. Unless it is a roundabout or in the middle of the traffic lights, he (I have not seen any ladies driving) will stop there.
They usually depart when full, but sometime they do on a fixed schedule.
Sometimes you do get a paper ticket but usually you do not. Drivers seem to have a sixth sense in remembering where you got on and calculating the correct fare. In Cyprus, as a tourist, I paid the same fare as the local passengers.
The front seat next to the driver seems to be mostly in demand. If free, you can ask if you can sit there. Some drivers speak good English and have a wicked sense of humor when stuck in the Lefkosa traffic jam or speeding down the speedway.
salam
One of my favorite memories is when getting on the dolmus and greeting everybody “salam” (hello). Everybody knows you are a tourist making an effort. The whole minibus will smile and respond “salam” in one voice. Sometimes you might also get an English “hello”, which is an extra bonus.
The whole system is working without fixed schedules or stops but, amazingly, is working well. Even if you want to go to the smallest village or a remote beach on the eastern side, your dolmus (or another one) will get you there.
Finally, travelling with dolmus is best during the local passenger peak hours. Mornings until early evening are best.
Accommodation
Given high tourist numbers for decades, a wide variety of hotels across the price spectrum on both sides of the island.
International chains, mid-range or budget options are available in every tourist site.
Food (this Cyprus travel guide favorite section)
Food on both sides is Mediterranean with fresh vegetables, fruit, cheese, honey, pastries (both sweet and savory). You will feel lighter and more positive that you are contributing to your healthy diet. Even if all of them are full of calories.
Even if you are on a diet (and who isn’t nowadays?), try the excellent halloumi pies and other pastries on the southern side. And no trip to the north will be complete without some kebab or döner. Seafood is amazing everywhere especially with local wine and ouzo, available on both sides.
On the northern side definitely try the breakfast plate at Göçmen Börek Girne in Girne/Kyrenia consisting of many tapas-size dishes. And all for a few dollars.
In Larnaca try the Za’atar Lebanese Bakery for freshly made pies and falafel. Close nearby is the excellent Dimitris Souvlaki. It is just just off the main street and you can easily miss it. However, the food is fresh and great, portions generous and the owner is so nice.
In Paphos try the Zorba bakery. Its fresh juice and pastries, both sweet and savory, are freshly and tasty.
Internet
Wifi widely available in hotels and hostels, speeds can vary. Working (including Zoom, etc.) usually possible.
If you can have an EU phone card, most likely you can roam free of charge. However, as always, check your contract and the roaming clauses first to avoid any nasty exorbitant charges later on.
Overall Tips
(1) Bring cash. USD and EUR have the best exchange rates. Northern side is still largely a cash economy.
(2) Money exchange is straightforward on the northern side with many exchange offices. The exchange rates are largely similar except the Girne (Kyrenia) harbor.
(3) Drink filtered or bottled water.
Costs
Reasonably priced, especially the northern side which is on the Turkey price level. In NYC or London you would easily pay 2-5 times more for the same quality food.
Cyprus Overall Rating
Always a great destination for a few days or a a longer stay. Visit both sides, they are different but almost two trips within minutes or hours of each other.
Sun is almost guaranteed here with good food and a lot to do. Who would not like it?
WHERE TO GO NEXT
Beyond this Cyprus travel guide, consider visiting Turkey as it is so close.
