Travel Blog

Montenegro

This Montenegro travel guide has the following sections below.

Montenegro is easily reachable from many European cities. You can land in Podgorica, the capital of Montenegro. You will probably want to leave relatively soon as Podgorica has few attractions.

Secondly, you can arrive on a bus from Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Serbia or Albania. Montenegro can be “done” as a stand alone trip. However, when you are in the neighborhood, why not see a couple of adjacent countries. They are all within a few hours bus ride with straightforward border crossing.

The easiest way to travel around is by minibus which can stop at any place you request. For longer distances, in the Bay of Kotor, the bus station in Kotor has the best connections to almost anywhere in any country in the Balkans.

You can catch a bus to Serbia (Belgrade, Novi Sad, Nis), Bosnia and Herzegovina (Trebinje, Mostar, Sarajevo), Croatia (Dubrovnik, Split) or Kosovo (Prishtina).

Why Visit?

Montenegro. Once a hidden gem in Europe, now less hidden but still a gem.

Located in the Balkans, Montenegro is a small country that packs a big punch when it comes to breathtaking landscapes and rich cultural heritage. This hidden gem in Europe is often overlooked by travelers, but it’s definitely worth a visit. From the stunning Adriatic coastline to the soaring peaks of Durmitor National Park, Montenegro has something for everyone.

Durmitor National Park

One of the highlights of Montenegro is Durmitor National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This park is home to the deepest canyon in Europe, the stunning Black Lake, and the famous Durmitor mountain range. The park offers a range of outdoor activities, from hiking and skiing in the winter to rafting and kayaking in the summer. You can even take a scenic drive along the park’s winding roads for breathtaking views of the peaks and valleys.

Adriatic Coastline

Montenegro’s Adriatic coastline is a must-visit for those who love sun, sea, and sand. This stretch of pristine beaches is home to a number of charming seaside towns, such as Budva, Kotor, Herceg Novi and Perast. Each town offers its own unique personality, from the historic old town of Kotor to the lively nightlife of Budva. The Adriatic coastline is also a great starting point for island-hopping in the nearby Bay of Kotor.

Just take a regular bus or a minibus from one town to next and spend a one-two days in each. Kotor Bay is beautiful, a bit like the fjords in Norway but without the Norwegian prices. Sunshine, excellent views, good food and friendly people make Montenegro a perennial favorite.

Cultural Heritage

Montenegro has a rich cultural heritage that is reflected in its architecture, food, and traditions. From the medieval old town of Cetinje to the Ottoman-era architecture of Kotor, the country is full of historical landmarks and museums that offer insight into its past. The country’s cuisine is a fusion of Balkan, Mediterranean, and Ottoman influences, and is definitely worth trying.

Covid-19 Restrictions

As of February 2023, none.

When to Visit

An all-round destination. Spring and fall are best.

If you cannot come during spring or fall, come anyway. It will probably be sunny, not too cold (at least for the northern Europeans) or extremely hot (especially in the bay of Kotor or in the mountains).

Safety

No issues, felt safe everywhere.

Top 3 Things

Brief history of Montenegro

As I was told in a few different Balkan countries, to understand them we would have to understand the history of the last 500 years. Or 1000 to make it even better.

The history of the Montenegro can be traced back to the 9th century when the Slavic tribes established the Principality of Duklja. Over the next several centuries, the country was ruled by various powers including the Byzantine Empire, the Kingdom of Serbia, and the Ottoman Empire. In the 19th century, Montenegro gained independence and became a kingdom in its own right. During World War I, Montenegro was occupied by Austro-Hungarian forces but regained independence after the war.

In 1918, Montenegro merged with Serbia to form the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes, which later became the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. After World War II, Yugoslavia became a socialist state under the rule of Josip Broz Tito. In 1991, following the collapse of communism in Eastern Europe, the various republics of Yugoslavia declared independence, including Montenegro.

In 2006, Montenegro declared independence.

Overall, we will find sunshine, amazing scenery and great food with influences of all those cultures. Plus some of the freshest oysters and fish which will make their way from the water to your table within minutes. Not exaggerated: definitely try one of the small oyster farms near Perast in the Kotor Bay.

(1) Perast (this Montenegro travel guide’s favorite)

Perast is a charming coastal town located on the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro. This historic town is known for its stunning baroque architecture, stunning views of the Adriatic Sea, and rich cultural heritage. Whether you’re a history buff, a culture lover, or just looking for a relaxing getaway, Perast is a must-visit destination.

Historic Sites

Perast is famous for its excellent baroque architecture, and the town is dotted with historic churches and palaces that date back to the 17th and 18th centuries. Some of the must-visit historic sites in Perast include the Church of St. Nicolas, the Church of Our Lady of the Rocks, and the Palace of the Škurlević family.

The picture at the top of this page is a panorama of Perast taken by a human (your correspondent).

Scenic Views

One of the highlights of Perast is its stunning views of the Adriatic Sea and the Bay of Kotor. The town is surrounded by rolling hills and the crystal-clear waters of the Adriatic, making it a great destination for those who love scenic views. You can take a walk along the town’s seaside promenade, go for a swim in the sea, or just relax on the beach and take in the stunning scenery.

Island-Hopping

Perast is a great starting point for island-hopping in the Bay of Kotor. The two most famous islands in the bay are Our Lady of the Rocks and St. George. Our Lady of the Rocks is a man-made island that is home to a church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and it offers stunning views of the bay. St. George is a larger island that is home to a historic castle and a beautiful beach. Both islands are accessible by boat from Perast and offer a unique and unforgettable experience.

(2) Herzig Novi

Herzeg Novi is a small coastal town located in the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro. This hidden gem is known for its stunning natural beauty, rich cultural heritage, and vibrant coastal atmosphere.

Whereas Perast is located along the shore, Herzig Novi feels more of a town with atmospheric historical buildings.

Herzeg Novi has a rich cultural heritage that dates back to the 15th century. The town is dotted with historic landmarks, including churches, palaces, and fortifications that offer a glimpse into its long and storied history. Some of the must-visit cultural sites in Herzeg Novi include the Old Town, the Citadel, and the Maritime Museum.

Herzig Novi in Bay of Kotor in Montenegro
Herzig Novi Old Town.

In addition to that, food here is excellent. Try the fresh salads or stews in the Old Town. Amazingly good.

(3) Kotor

Of all the coastal towns in the bay, Kotor made the least impression. Yes, the old town is nice with the fortifications that you can climb and all the small squares and restaurants.

However, the town is the docking place for all the cruisers which dominate the small harbor and overflow the small town with tourists. Kotor also has a modern part and has many cute cafes and restaurants along the shore in the direction of Perast. Walk for 15 minutes and leave all the tourists behind and you will be rewarded by even better views and serenity.

Accommodation

Given a steady influx of tourists over the years, you will find a wide spectrum from international hotels to family-based accommodations. Especially in the latter ones you will be greeted with the traditional Balkan hospitality.

You will meet interesting visitors from the Balkans and all over Europe (plus the international arrivals on the cruisers).

In Perast, we highly recommend Apartments Jovanović. Amazing views with the friendliest family in Montenegro.

Costs

Still an excellent price-value relationship.

Overall Rating

Highly recommended by this Montenegro travel guide. A serene and atmospheric destination with interesting culture mix and welcoming people.

No requirement to rush to must-see museums, so take your time and enjoy the south European good life and hospitality.

More Information About Balkans

Beyond this Montenegro travel guide, Bosnia and Herzegovina is next door and different but fascinating.

For more history, excellent food and balmy weather, Southern Spain Itinerary is a high-level overview of the Andalusia region.

Bosnia and Herzegovina

This Bosnia and Herzegovina travel guide has the following sections below.

There will be also a new dimension on this page. Following up on the artificial intelligence (AI)-generated post about Seville, we are going to use another AI model in this Bosnia and Herzegovina (B&H) page.

B&H will use another breakthrough AI model, which is able to generate high-quality images from text. This is fantastic for people with absolutely no painting skills like truly yours.

The picture above was generated using “Old bridge in Mostar in impressionist van Gogh style”.

If you are arriving on a flight at the Sarajevo airport, you have two main options how to get to the city center. (1) taxi. (2) public bus. Unfortunately, the public bus is not departing from the airport. The nearest bus stop is on a major road approximately 10 minutes walking distance from the airport.

You would leave the airport building, go to the main road in front of you and turn right. Walk through a waving road along the neat houses and you will hit the main busy road. If driving to the city center you want to travel to your left.

The bus took about 40 minutes and was clean with helpful local passengers.

Why Visit?

Bosnia and Herzegovina is a country located in the Balkans, known for its stunning natural beauty, rich culture, and diverse history. This Bosnia and Herzegovina travel guide highly recommends visiting before it becomes more popular and crowded.

One of the top attractions in Bosnia and Herzegovina is the capital city of Sarajevo. This historic city has a rich cultural heritage and was once an important center of trade, culture, and education. Visitors can explore the Old Town, which is home to a variety of architectural styles, including Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian, and traditional Bosnian. In the Old Town, you can visit the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque, the oldest mosque in the city, and the Sarajevo Cathedral, a beautiful Catholic church.

Another must-see destination in Bosnia and Herzegovina (B&H) is Mostar, a city located in the Herzegovina region. This charming city is home to the Old Bridge, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which is a symbol of the city and the country. Visitors can also take a stroll through the city’s historic center, where they will find beautiful Ottoman-style buildings and traditional bazaars.

To see a totally different face of B&H, go to Trebinje. It is in the Republika Srpska (not part of Serbia) and this small town has a very different feel from Sarajevo, Mostar or the Croatian tourist behemoths of Split and Dubrovnik. This place has a Serbian character with incredible hospitality. Time is flowing slowly here around the river, hills and Orthodox churches. Still relatively quiet as the tour buses concentrate on the adjacent must-see’s in B&H and Croatia. A great opportunity to spend a day or two here, take a deep breath after a million of tourists in Dubrovnik or the overcrowded Mostar bridge, and have some excellent local food.

Covid-19 Restrictions

As of January 2023, none.

When to Visit

An all-round destination. Spring and fall are best.

Safety

No issues, felt safe everywhere.

Top 3 Things

(1) Sarajevo (this Bosnia and Herzegovina travel guide: MUST SEE)

Sarajevo, the capital and largest city of Bosnia and Herzegovina, is a destination that should not be missed. Known for its rich history and culture, this city has something to offer for everyone.

history and culture mix

It is different from from the Italian-style Split and Dubrovnik. Calmer and more conservative with a Muslim culture, it is one of the key cities to visit in the Balkans to learn this diverse region. It is also one of the few places where churches, mosques and synagogues are next to one another, earning the city its “Jerusalem of the Balkans” name.

One of the first things you’ll notice when you arrive in Sarajevo is its stunning architecture. The city is home to a mix of Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian, and modern styles, making it a truly unique destination. The Old Town, also known as Baščaršija, is a must-see. This area is filled with winding streets, traditional markets, and beautiful mosques, including the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque, which is the largest and oldest mosque in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Just take it easy and walk around the Old Town. Yes, there will be thousands of tourists but this unique blend of Ottoman and Austrian architecture is stunning. After Turks invaded Sarajevo in late 15th century, it became a trading and cultural center. During the decline of the Ottoman empire in the nineteenth century, Austria-Hungary ousted the Turks in 1878. A subsequent investment and construction boom created many Belle Epoque buildings in the Old Town.

Avatar in traditional Ottoman clothing in Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Avatar in traditional Ottoman dress in Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina.

1914

It was also in Sarajevo in June 1914 where the Austrian archduke Ferdinand was assassinated, which started the First World War. He was killed in his car when crossing the river in the city center. Remarkable that this small bridge started a major military conflict, which ravaged Europe for four years and collapsed the Austria-Hungarian, German and Russian empires.

Another must-see is the Sarajevo Tunnel. This tunnel was built during the Siege of Sarajevo in the 1990s, and it served as a vital lifeline for the city during the war. Today, it serves as a museum, and visitors can walk through the tunnel and learn about the history of the city during this difficult time.

try Cevapi and burek

The city is known for its traditional Bosnian cuisine, which is a blend of Turkish, Mediterranean, and Central European flavors. Some popular dishes to try include cevapi, a type of sausage made with ground beef and lamb. Also do not forget burek, a savory pastry filled with meat, cheese, or spinach.

In addition to its rich history and culture, Sarajevo is surrounded by beautiful mountains. There are plenty of hiking and skiing opportunities nearby. One popular destination is the Olympic Mountains, which were the site of the 1984 Winter Olympics. You can take a cable car to the top of the mountain for breathtaking views of the city and the surrounding area.

Sarajevo in twenty second century in neon light
Sarajevo in twenty second century in neon light.

(2) Mostar

Train sarajevo-mostar

If you are going to Mostar from Sarajevo, take the train. It is departing from the main Sarajevo train station, which is walkable from the city center. My train was on time, clean, comfortable and safe. You can buy tickets in person in the arrivals hall, some English spoken. The train ride is picturesque, costs approximately $5 one way and takes less than 2 hours.

The departure times from Sarajevo are: 07:15-09:05, 16:49-18:44. Check the departures for your day, especially if it is Sunday.

mostar old town

Mostar is a compact and walkable town.

One of the first things you’ll notice when you arrive in Mostar is its Old Town, also known as Stari Grad. This area is filled with winding streets, traditional markets, and beautiful Ottoman-era buildings. The Stari Most, which spans the Neretva River, is the most iconic and recognizable landmark of Mostar. The bridge was built in the 16th century and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

This is the bridge depicted on thousands of travel ads and, accordingly, heavily crowded with tourists. Be careful when it is raining, pretty slippery. You will also notice some locals jumping from the bridge into the river below. And yes, they will come and ask for your donation before they do.

Mostar panorama with Old Bridge, Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Mostar panorama including the Old Bridge

Another must-see is the Old Bazaar, also known as the Kujundziluk. This traditional market is filled with shops selling traditional Bosnian crafts, such as pottery, copperware, and textiles. Visitors can also find a variety of restaurants and cafes in the Old Bazaar, offering traditional Bosnian cuisine and local specialties.

Mostar is also home to a number of historical and cultural sites, including the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque and the Muslibegovic House. The Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque is one of the most beautiful and important Ottoman-era monuments in the city and is open to visitors. The Muslibegovic House is an 18th-century Ottoman-era house that has been converted into a museum, showcasing the traditional way of life in Mostar.

For outdoor enthusiasts, Mostar is surrounded by beautiful mountains and offers plenty of opportunities for hiking, rock climbing, and white-water rafting. The Neretva River, which runs through the city, is a popular spot for rafting and offers a unique way to explore the city and its surroundings.

(3) Trebinje

Trebinje, a city located in the southern Herzegovina region is a hidden gem that should not be missed. Known for its stunning Old Town, beautiful monasteries, and stunning natural surroundings, this city is a perfect blend of history, culture, and natural beauty.

One of the first things you’ll notice when you arrive in Trebinje is its Old Town. The Old Town is filled with winding streets, traditional markets, and beautiful Ottoman-era buildings. The most iconic and recognizable landmark of the Old Town is the Tvrdoš Monastery, a stunning 16th-century Orthodox monastery that is open to visitors. The Monastery is surrounded by lush gardens and offers beautiful views of the city and the surrounding area.

Another must-see is the Hercegovacka Gracanica, a beautiful medieval Orthodox church located on a hill overlooking the city. The church is known for its stunning frescoes and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Visitors can also find the Trebinje’s old city clock tower, it is one of the most important landmarks of the city and it is a great spot to take in the views of the city and the surrounding area.

Trebinje in Bosnia and Herzegovina
Trebinje Monet style

Accommodation

Given a steady influx of tourists over the years, you will find a wide spectrum from international hotels to family-based accommodations. Especially in the latter ones you will be greeted with the traditional Balkan hospitality.

Costs

Excellent price-value relationship. Bosnia and Herzegovina is less popular than the Croatia or Montenegro. Visit before it the crowds and higher prices arrive.

Overall Rating

Highly recommended by this Bosnia and Herzegovina travel guide. A serene and atmospheric destination with interesting culture mix and welcoming people.

More Information About Balkans

Beyond this Bosnia and Herzegovina travel guide, there will be some more Balkan posts.

In the meantime for more history, excellent food and balmy weather, Southern Spain Itinerary is a high-level overview of the Andalusia region. Seville, Granada and Cordoba have more detail about those cities.

Cordoba

This Cordoba travel guide has the following sections:

If you are arriving by bus from Seville Plaza de Armas bus station, there are several ALSA connections per day, EUR 13 one way, 2 hours. Buy ticket online or at the ticket machine at the bus station (cards or cash accepted). Arrive 15-20 minutes before the bus departure time as there will be a queue.

When coming from the Malaga airport, a one-way bus ticket is EUR 13 and takes over 2 hours. Departures from the airport (bus stop immediately outside the terminal building): 15:55. Otherwise, go to the Cordoba main bus station for more connections.

Cordoba bus station to city center: 30-40 minutes walk, straightforward and safe.

Why Visit?

Cordoba in Andalusia is a city filled with history, culture and good local food. Known for its stunning Moorish architecture, including the famous Mezquita-Catedral, Cordoba is a must-visit destination for any traveler.

Roman, Moorish and Spanish architecture

Upon arrival, the first stop should be the Mezquita-Catedral, a former mosque turned cathedral that is considered one of the most important examples of Moorish architecture in the world. The intricate arches and columns are truly breathtaking, and the contrast of the Christian and Muslim elements within the building is fascinating.

Next, take a stroll through the charming cobblestone streets of the Juderia, the city’s historic Jewish quarter. Here you’ll find colorful houses, patios filled with flowers, and plenty of shops and restaurants. Be sure to stop by the Synagogue, the only one still standing in Cordoba from the medieval times.

For those interested in history, the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos is a must-see. This fortress and palace was built in the 14th century and has been used by various rulers throughout the centuries. The gardens are particularly beautiful and offer a peaceful oasis in the middle of the city.

In the city center it will be difficult to miss the Roman bridge. It it not in the name only, the original structure is 2,000 years old with the subsequent Moorish and Spanish renovations and additions.

Cordoba is also famous for its patios, traditional Andalusian courtyards filled with flowers, fountains, and intricate tilework. These patios are a symbol of the city and are open to the public during the annual Patio Festival in May.

Plus excellent local food

Finally, no trip to Cordoba would be complete without sampling some of the delicious local cuisine. Dishes like salmorejo, a creamy tomato soup, and fried eggplant with honey, are must-tries. And don’t forget to wash it all down with a glass of sherry, a local specialty.

Overall, Cordoba is a city that offers something for everyone. Its unique blend of history, culture, and beauty makes it a truly special place to visit.

Finally, the sun is usually shining and the temperatures in the spring and fall pleasant. Combined with excellent Spanish food and good flight, bus and train connections, an easy city to visit for a few days.

Comparing with other Andalusian cities, Cordoba is more relaxed with families walking around on cobblestone streets.

Covid-19 Restrictions

As of January 2023, none.

When to Visit

Cordoba (and Andalusia overall) is a year-round destination. However, summer is hot with regular 30C+ temperatures.

Safety

No issues, feels even more secure than Sevilla or Granada.

Top 5 Things

(1) Mezquita Cathedral (this Cordoba travel guide: MUST SEE)

The Mezquita-Catedral, also known as the Great Mosque of Cordoba, is a former mosque turned cathedral located in Cordoba, Spain. It is considered one of the most important examples of Moorish architecture in the world.

A subjective view but as impressive as Alhambra in Granada, Royal Palace in Seville, or the Silk Road architecture in Samarkand and Bukhara in Uzbekistan.

The mosque was built in the 8th century under the rule of the Muslim Umayyad dynasty, and it was expanded and modified over the centuries. During this time, it served as the main mosque of Cordoba and was one of the most important religious buildings in the Islamic world.

In the 13th century, when the city was conquered by King Ferdinand III of Castile, the mosque was converted into a cathedral. A Renaissance-style nave was added in the 16th century, and the mosque’s minaret was converted into a bell tower.

One of the most striking features of the Mezquita-Catedral is its forest of columns. The mosque originally had over 850 columns and horseshoe arches, many of which were taken from other buildings and reused. The forest of columns creates a unique and mesmerizing effect inside the building.

The Islamic depiction of heaven below is stunning and draws tourist crowds.

Mezquita Cathedral in Cordoba in southern Spain
Mezquita Cathedral in Cordoba, Spain

Buy a ticket in advance for early morning

  1. Purchase a ticket: The Mezquita can be visited with a standard entry ticket (EUR11), or you can buy a combination ticket which also includes other monuments or attractions in the city (I bought the individual ticket as the combination requires intense sight seeing). The ticket can be bought online in advance or at the box office on the day of your visit. Arrive as early as possible before hundreds of tourists arrive later on. The official ticket website: https://mezquita-catedraldecordoba.es/en/organiza-la-visita/entradas-y-horarios/
  2. Arrive on time: The Mezquita has specific opening hours and can get very busy, so it is best to arrive on time to avoid long queues.
  3. Make use of the audio guide: An audio guide is included with the ticket, and it is available in several languages and it provides a great overview of the history and architecture of the Mezquita.

(2) Juderia (this Cordoba travel guide: MUST SEE)

Cordoba’s Juderia, also known as the Jewish quarter, is a charming and historic neighborhood that should not be missed on any visit to the city. The Juderia is located in the heart of Cordoba, surrounded by the city’s ancient walls and it’s one of the best-preserved Jewish quarters in Spain.

Walking through the narrow, winding streets of the Juderia is like stepping back in time. The neighborhood is filled with colorful houses, many adorned with flower-filled patios, and plenty of shops and restaurants.

One of the main highlights of the Juderia is the Synagogue, the only one still standing in Cordoba from the medieval times. The Synagogue is a small but beautiful building that dates back to the 14th century. The decoration inside is simple but elegant, with horseshoe arches and intricate tilework.

Another must-see in the Juderia is the Palacio de Viana, a beautiful palace that was built in the 15th century by a wealthy Jewish merchant. Today, it’s open to the public and it’s used for cultural events and exhibitions.

(3) Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos

The Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos is a 14th-century fortress and palace located in Cordoba, Spain. The Alcazar is one of the city’s most important historical landmarks and a must-see for any traveler interested in history and architecture.

Moorish and Spanish architecture

The Alcazar was originally built in the 14th century by King Alfonso XI of Castile as a fortress to protect Cordoba from invading Moors. It was later converted into a palace by King Pedro the Cruel in the 14th century. The palace has been used by various rulers throughout the centuries and has served as a royal residence, a prison, and even a military academy.

One of the most striking features of the Alcazar is its gardens. The gardens are considered one of the most beautiful in Cordoba and offer a peaceful oasis in the middle of the city. The gardens are filled with exotic plants and flowers, fountains, and beautiful statues. It’s a great place to relax and take a break from the hustle and bustle of the city.

The palace also has a number of important historical artifacts on display, including medieval paintings, ceramics, and other decorative arts. The palace also has a beautiful chapel, and it’s considered one of the best examples of Mudéjar style architecture in Cordoba.

Visitors should note that while the palace is open to the public, the gardens are closed on Mondays. Moreover, the palace is closed on Tuesdays. It’s always a good idea to check the schedule before visiting and to get there early to avoid the crowds.

(4) Roman Bridge

The Roman Bridge in Cordoba, Spain, is a historic bridge that spans the Guadalquivir River and connects the city’s old town to the newer neighborhoods on the other side. The bridge is one of the most iconic landmarks in Cordoba and offers a great view of the city and its surroundings.

The Roman Bridge, also known as the Puente Romano, was originally built by the Roman Empire in the 1st century AD. It’s considered one of the best-preserved Roman bridges in Spain and one of the oldest standing bridges in the world. The bridge has undergone several renovations throughout the centuries, but it still retains much of its original structure. Imagine, you will be walking on a bridge 2,000 years old and it is pretty stable. How many of our modern buildings will survive that long?

Cross at night and get great photos

Crossing the bridge is a must-do experience for any visitor to Cordoba. The bridge offers great views of the city’s famous Mezquita-Catedral and the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos, as well as the beautiful Guadalquivir River. It’s also a great spot for photography and to enjoy a sunset.

You can see the perfect symmetry of the bridge from the next modern bridge, especially impressive at night when the Roman bridge is nicely illuminated.

When crossing from the touristy city center, the other side is considerably less visited and a distinctly local feel.

(5) Local Andalusian (or Cordoba) food (this Cordoba travel guide: try salmorejo, a local delicacy)

After all this sight seeing you deserve a well-earned break. Go for a leisurely lunch or dinner in one of the local restaurants, especially those outside of the core tourist center. A 15-20 minute walk will probably get you to a place with excellent local food potentially located in a lovely square with the local families around. You might be the only tourist around but most probably there will be an English menu.

As always, a good idea is to look around what the locals are eating, find what you like and ask for that. You will be well rewarded for your curiosity.

Accommodation

Cordoba is a beautiful city with a lot to offer largely centered around Mezquita.

But, fortunately, there is less pressure on us tourists as there are no five must-see museums with countless buildings to visit. The city overall is not huge and largely walkable.

Costs

As elsewhere in Andalusia, an excellent price-value relationship. Significantly cheaper than Madrid, France or Italy but with world-class Mezquita and excellent food.

Overall Rating

Highly recommended by this Cordoba travel guide.

Come because of the stunning Mezquita, and stay an extra day or two for the relaxed vibe and local food.

More Information About Spain

Beyond this Cordoba travel guide, Southern Spain Itinerary is a high-level overview of the Andalusia cities. Seville and Granada have more detail about those cities.

Granada

This Granada travel guide has the following sections:

If you are arriving by bus from Cordoba, there are several ALSA connections per day, EUR 16 one way, 2 hours 45 minutes. Buy ticket online or at the ticket machine at the bus station (cards or cash accepted).

When coming from the Malaga airport, a one-way bus ticket is EUR 12 and takes 2 hours. Departures from the airport (bus stop immediately outside the terminal building); 08:00, 08:30, 10:15, 11:30, 12:30, 13:30, 16:15, 17:00, 18:30, 19:00, 19:30 and 22:45.

Granada bus station to city center: 30-40 minutes walk through a park, straightforward and safe.

Why Visit?

Granada is a city located in the southern region of Spain, in the autonomous community of Andalusia. It is known for its rich history and culture, as well as its stunning architecture.

One of the most famous landmarks in Granada (and Spain overall) is the Alhambra, a Moorish palace and fortress complex that dates back to the 9th century. The Alhambra is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is considered one of the most important examples of Islamic architecture in the world. Visitors can tour the palace, the fortress, and the beautiful gardens that surround them. Alhambra is the main reason why most tourists visit Granada.

Beyond this star attraction, Granada is full of imposing buildings both of Moorish and Spanish origin. At the peak of its power, the Spanish Empire and Granada must have had almost unquantifiable wealth, which was spent on all those magnificent monuments.

If you have seen too many churches or monasteries, Granada also has the atmospheric Islamic districts, which are great for walking tours.

Finally, the sun is usually shining and the temperatures in the spring and fall pleasant. Combined with excellent Spanish food and good flight, bus and train connections, an easy city to visit for a few days.

This Granada travel guide highly recommends coming here and visiting all major sites. After all those ticked off, spend another one or two days just enjoying the city.

Covid-19 Restrictions

As of January 2023, none.

When to Visit

Seville (and Andalusia overall) is a year-round destination. However, summer is hot with regular 30C+ temperatures.

Safety

Even on a Friday or Saturday night with crowds partying, I have not encountered any safety issues.

Top 5 Things

(1) Alhambra (this Granada travel guide: MUST SEE)

The Alhambra is a stunning palace and fortress complex located in the city center of Granada (a 30 minute walk but uphill). It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is considered one of the most important examples of Islamic architecture in the world. Its intricate engravings and the overall elegant design are impressive. They are also on par with the top monuments in Samarkand or Bukhara in Uzbekistan. Highly recommended, do not miss it.

The Alhambra complex includes several parts: the Islamic Nasrid Palace, the Spanish Palace, Generalife (gardens) and the Alcazaba fortress.

One of the highlights of southern Spain travel, Alhambra Palace in Granada
The depiction of heaven in the Nasrid Palace.

Purchase a ticket in advance

  1. Purchase a ticket: The Alhambra can be visited with a standard entry ticket, or you can buy a combination ticket which also includes other monuments or attractions in the city. I purchased the individual ticket as the combination ticket requires a lot of intense sight seeing to pay off. Overall, the Alhambra is a very popular attraction and tickets can sell out quickly, so it’s recommended to purchase your tickets well in advance. The official ticket website: https://tickets.alhambra-patronato.es/en/
  2. Arrive on time: The Alhambra has specific opening hours and time-slots for the different areas of the palace, so it’s important to arrive on time for your allocated slot. Important: entry to the Nasrid Palace is strictly at the timeslot on your ticket. You will have to present a QR code or your passport to gain entry.
  3. Make use of the audio guide: An audio guide is included with the ticket, and it is available in several languages and provides a great overview of the history and architecture of the Alhambra.

Alhambra vs alcazar (Royal Palace) in Seville

I liked both of those but they do differ. If your time allows it, this Granada travel guide recommends to visit both of them.

The Alhambra in Granada and the Alcázar of Seville are both outstanding examples of the Islamic architecture in Spain and are both UNESCO World Heritage Sites. However, they are different in terms of their history, architecture and the experience they offer to visitors.

The Alhambra is a palace and fortress complex. It was built during the 14th century by the Moors and is considered one of the most important examples of Islamic architecture in the world. The palace is known for its intricate decoration, which includes ornate tilework, arabesques and calligraphy. The complex also includes a fortress and beautiful gardens, the Generalife.

The Alcázar of Seville, on the other hand, is a palace located in the city of Seville. It was originally built as a fortress by the Moors in the 9th century and was later extended and rebuilt by the Christian rulers in the 14th and 15th centuries. The palace is known for its blend of Mudéjar architecture, which is a blend of Islamic and Christian styles. It’s also famous for being the location where the royal family of Spain lived, and it’s the oldest royal palace in use in Europe.

Different locations

The Alhambra is a larger complex and it’s set in the mountains. On the other hand, the Alcazar is located in the center of the city, with all the attractions surrounding it.

Both are considered a must-see for anyone visiting their respective cities.

Alhambra general entry ticket for all sites: EUR14. Access to the Nasrid Palace is strictly timed. Other parts can be entered during the overall opening times.

(2) Cathedral of Granada

The Cathedral of Granada, also known as the Cathedral of the Incarnation, is a grand 16th-century structure located in the city of Granada, Spain. It features a mix of Gothic and Renaissance styles, and is known for its beautiful architecture and historical significance. The Royal Chapel is located adjacent to the Cathedral. The Catholic Monarchs, King Ferdinand and Queen Isabel who conquered Moorish Spain, are buried there. By the way, the same Queen Isabel who has a statue on the square in the city center.

The Cathedral of Granada is a must-see attraction for anyone visiting the city, and it’s a great way to appreciate the rich history and culture of the region. The Cathedral, together with the Alhambra, the Royal Chapel and the Albayzin, are the most important and visited monuments in Granada.

(3) Albayzin

So moving on to a very different area. Albayzin is a historic neighborhood located on a hill opposite the Alhambra. The streets of the Albayzin are filled with white-washed houses, flower-filled patios, and charming shops and restaurants. Instead of an intense visit with allocated timeslots and many tourists, this will be a more leisurely walk around the old Islamic quarter. In good weather, an excellent

The Sacromonte neighborhood is also worth a visit, known for its caves and the Abbey of Sacromonte, but also for the panoramic views of the city, the Alhambra and the valley.

Walking tours available but easily doable on your own.

(4) La Cartuja monastery

If you are still into another religious building, please visit La Cartuja or Monasterio de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. It is a a lavish and tranquil Baroque monastery 20 minutes walking distance away from the city center. Because it is located away from the Alhambra or the city center in a more residential and local neighborhood, you will see few other tourists, if any.

The church is a true example of the Spanish baroque with intricate engravings and gold everywhere.

Please also do not miss the section on the left hand side entered through a large wooden door. It is humbly called ” the most beautiful sacristy in the world“.

However, the Spanish paintings in the gallery rooms on the right-hand side were even more interesting as they depicted the history from the Spanish Empire perspective. That would include the wars with the protestant Dutch.

EUR6 entry ticket, 10am-6pm.

(5) Almost any other church or monastery in city center

Granada’s wealth at the peak of the Spanish Empire must have been almost unimaginable and was spent on so many religious buildings. In the city center it seems there is a large one every few minutes of walking distance, especially along the San Jeronimo. Basilica de San Juan de Dios, Monasterio de San Jeronimo or Santuario de Nuestra Señora del Perpetuo Socorro Granada are all magnificent. They will all look a bit similar after a bit, though.

Accommodation

Granada is a beautiful city with a lot to offer. There are many different neighborhoods and areas where you can stay, depending on your preferences and budget. The city overall is not huge and largely walkable.

Albaicín

The Albaicín is a historic neighborhood located on a hill opposite the Alhambra. It’s a charming and picturesque area with narrow, winding streets, white-washed houses, and flower-filled patios. Many of the buildings have been converted into hotels, and the area is a great option for those looking for a more authentic and traditional experience. The Albaicín is also a great base for exploring the city, as it’s within walking distance of the Alhambra and other important sights.

Centro histórico

The historic center of Granada is located around the Cathedral and the Royal Chapel, it’s a great option for those who want to be in the heart of the city and close to all the main attractions and shopping areas. The area has many charming narrow streets, cafes and restaurants. There are also many hotels, guesthouses, and apartments available in this area.

Realejo

The Realejo is a neighborhood located just outside the city walls. It’s a more modern and up-and-coming area, with plenty of bars, restaurants, and street art. It is a great area for those looking for a more bohemian and alternative atmosphere and it’s also close to many of the city’s main attractions.

Sacromonte

The Sacromonte is a neighborhood located on the hill east of the Alhambra, it is known for its caves, the Abbey of Sacromonte and the views of the city, the Alhambra, and the valley. It’s a good option for those looking for a peaceful and quieter area, but also have easy access to the center.

All in all, it depends on what you’re looking for in a place to stay. The Albaicín and Centro Histórico are great options for those looking to be close to the main sights and historic charm. Realejo and Sacromonte are more modern, alternative and offer a bit more tranquility. And in all cases, you’ll have a great time in Granada.

Costs

An excellent price-value relationship. Significantly cheaper than Madrid, France or Italy but with world-class architecture and history, and excellent food.

Overall Rating

Highly recommended by this Granada travel guide. Alhambra is almost an excuse to visit this great Andalusian city and stay for a few days.

More Information About Spain

Beyond this Granada travel guide, Southern Spain Itinerary is a high-level overview of the Andalusia cities. Seville and Cordoba have more detailed information about those cities.

Buenos Aires

This Buenos Aires travel guide has the following sections below.

Why Visit

Buenos Aires is one of the best cities I have ever been to. Really, no exaggeration here.

This city has strong Spanish and Italian roots with the South American flair. It is clear that Buenos Aires has seen its glory days earlier, when it must have been one of the richest and most sophisticated cities in the world. This peak came around 1900 when Argentina was a wealthy and growing country with strong agriculture and overall economy.

The impact of the southern European emigrants can be seen everywhere. There are Spanish and Italian restaurants where you can still hear those languages and the food quality is on par with their European counterparts. Paella will be as good as in Valencia in Spain. Local lasagna will transport you to Bologna in Italy.

And yet there is some melancholy in the air. Argentina might not be the destination of choice for millions of European immigrants anymore. The glory days of Buenos Aires beaming into North America and Europe might be no longer here. Argentines are joking that they have been in an economic crisis all their lives. However, they still manage to enjoy excellent dinner in the cherished company of their family and friends.

In addition, the city is still beautiful with stunning Italianate or Spanish elements. The wide boulevards with wealthy buildings are everywhere. The neighborhoods are diverse and interesting. Also, Buenos Aires has tens of high-quality restaurants, you would pay 2-5 times those prices in NYC, London, Paris or Dubai.

Teatro Colon, Buenos Aires’ answer to the Lincoln Center in NYC or Covent Garden in London is visually stunning and offering world-class performances. And El Ateneo Grand will probably be the most impressive bookshop you will ever visit.

In summary, a great place for a stand-alone vacation for a few days. Or a starting or end point for a longer Argentine trip to Patagonia, Mendoza or Iguazu Falls.

Argentina in Numbers

Population: 46 million (Buenos Aires: 15 million)

Capital: Buenos Aires

Language: Spanish, English widely spoken in tourist areas

Currency: Argentine peso (ARS)

Exchange rate (January 2023): USD 1 = ARS 178, EUR 1 = ARS 190, GBP 1 = ARS 215

Electricity: standard European 230V with 50Hz frequency, standard European plugs C, in addition electricity plug I (three flat prongs mainly used in Australia, New Zealand or South Pacific)

Covid-19 Restrictions

As the Covid-19 requirements have been changing constantly, this Buenos Aires travel guide recommends checking the current restrictions before you depart for Argentina.

The website of the Argentine Consulate in New York:

https://cnyor.cancilleria.gob.ar/en/requirements-entry-argentine-republic

As of January 2023, NO Covid-19 restrictions.

No requirement to present the health form “Declaración Jurada”.

NO Covid-19 vaccination certificates requested at the arrival .

Also, NO Covid-19 tests (PCR or antigen) requested at the arrival.

Finally, NO quarantine.

Visas

Tourist visits up to 90 days do not require a visa.

The following countries are exempt: US, UK, EU, most Central and South American countries, Turkey, Russia and others.

The current full list of exempt countries:

https://cnyor.cancilleria.gob.ar/en/countries-list-do-not-require-tourist-visa-when-visiting-argentina

When to Visit

The Buenos Aires climate is the reverse of the northern hemisphere’s.

The best time to visit Buenos Aires would be during the spring (September to November) and fall (March to May) when the weather is mild, and the crowds are smaller compared to peak summer months.

December-February is the hot and humid summer (30C+ / 86F+).

Fall (March to May) and spring (September to November) are most pleasant to visit.

Winter (June to August) will be crisp with average temperatures 8-16C (46-61F).

Safety

I have not encountered any uncomfortable situations in the tourist areas in central Buenos Aires.

Having said that, there are reports of theft, also conducted by “motochorros”, who might snatch phones or valuables while on their bikes.

Safety in Buenos Aires is also highly dependent on the specific area and hours. Be careful in La Boca or San Telmo after the sunset.

Overall, the usual sensible precautions would apply here. Don’t show off expensive items. Keep your backpack close to your body. Know what you are doing when it is dark.

Another thing to be aware of is the traffic in Buenos Aires. It can be quite chaotic and pedestrians are not always given priority by drivers. It is best to stay alert and cross the streets with the locals.

However, my perception is that all this should not keep your from exploring the city (or not coming at all). Please be careful and most probably nothing will happen to you.

Hassle Factor

2/10. In the central Buenos Aires no aggressive street sellers or tour operators.

Top 5 Things in Buenos Aires

A Buenos Aires city trip will be great with a mix of interesting sites, awesome food and good walks.

(1) Visit Recoleta cemetery, the Belle Epoque place of rest for some of Argentine’s most famous people, including Eva “Evita” Peron. A mix of Art Nouveau, baroque, masonic and gothic designs is an eerily beautiful place

(2) Stay in or walk around Palermo, the chic neighborhood of colorful houses, museums, parks, and trendy boutiques and restaurants. Or the Caminito street museum, located in La Boca, a lively pedestrian street lined with colorful houses and tango clubs.

(3) Walk around the city center. See the El Ateneo Grand bookstore in a former theatre, probably the most stunning bookplace you will ever visit. In addition, Evita Museum is dedicated to the life and legacy of Eva Perón, one of the most iconic figures in Argentine history. The Obelisk is a iconic monument located in the Plaza de la Republica, it is one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks. Even if you are not into classical music, attend a performance at Teatro Colon. Already the staircase and the halls will be impressive enough.

(4) Day trip to Uruguay by ferry. You are already here, it close nearby and what is the chance that you would make a separate trip just to Uruguay? A ferry to Colonia del Sacramento takes 1 hour 15 minutes, several departures per day, two main companies: Colonia Express and Buquebus. Buy tickets online in advance, the first morning departures are frequently sold out.

(5) Venture out to San Telmo, a historic neighborhood with cobblestone streets, antique shops and tango clubs. Visit La Boca, a colorful neighborhood known for its street art and tango dancing. The Caminito in La Boca is a street museum and a traditional alley with colorful houses and tango dancers.

And, needless to say, enjoy the excellent restaurants at a great price-quality point.

In other words, almost Old World charm just an overnight flight from NYC with little jetlag.

Old Charm architecture in Buenos Aires
Impressive European-infused architecture everywhere.

Transportation

How to get from the airport to the Buenos Aires city?

  1. Taxis: You can take a taxi from the airport to the city center. This is the most convenient option, but also the most expensive.
  2. Airport Shuttle Bus: The Manuel Tienda León shuttle bus service is available 24 hours a day, departing every 30 minutes from the airport to Retiro Bus Terminal in the city center.
  3. Public Bus: The Public Bus Line 8 operates from the airport to the city center, with the final stop at Retiro Bus Terminal.
  4. Subte (Subway): You can take the subway from the airport to the city center. It’s a bit more complicated than the other options, but is relatively cheap. The subway line E connects the airport with the city center.

In Buenos Aires, the most popular way of transportation for tourists is the subway, which is very easy to use and is the most affordable option.

If you are staying in central Buenos Aires, many of those places are walkable. For longer distances, Uber is working here.

In my experience, regular taxi drivers are less nice and sometimes it is difficult to communicate in English.

Accommodation

Given high tourist numbers for decades, a wide variety of hotels across the price spectrum.

Firstly, please decide which area of the city you want to stay in. They are pretty spread out and have a different feeling.

  • La Boca: a colorful neighborhood known for its vibrant street art and historic houses. A more bohemian experience of the city, with some hostels and budget friendly hotels, and close to the famous Caminito street museum.
  • Recoleta: an upscale neighborhood known for its cemetery, where many famous Argentineans are buried, as well as its many art galleries, boutiques and luxury hotels.
  • San Telmo: a historic neighborhood known for its colonial-era architecture, tango clubs, and antique shops.
  • Palermo: a large neighborhood known for its many parks and gardens, such as the Botanic Garden and the Japanese Garden. A more trendy and gentrified district for shopping and nightlife.
  • Microcentro: This area is very centrally located and offers easy access to the city center and major attractions such as the Obelisk, the Teatro Colon, and the Plaza de Mayo. This area offers a variety of accommodations, from budget-friendly hotels to luxury resorts.

Food (this Buenos Aires travel guide’s favorite section)

Ah, the food in this city. One of the big reasons to visit and stay a few days. This is still a city of long lunches and celebrated dinners.

Parrilla

Argentina is, rightfully so, proud of its steaks. If this is what you are into, you will have a great time here. A lunch or dinner in one of the parrilla (grill) will be a leisurely long affair with a million calories inducing you to a well-deserved siesta afterwards.

Your meal will typically start with achuras sausages or entrails. Alternatively, try the heavenly provoleta, a grilled hunk of cheese. Crispy on the outside, soft and melting inside, and a serious size it would make a stand-alone meal elsewhere.

But not in Buenos Aires. The main star of the show are the steak cuts and the waiter will make a short but serious lecture about the pros and cons of different cuts. They are usually served without any side dishes (guarniciones). Be careful with those, even a portion of simple chips or fries will be pretty gargantuan by any European, Asian or even post-Covid American standards.

Also, I was reminded that some serious steak customers here enjoy their steak only with salt, chimichurri and salsa criolla sauces. Yes, this purist approach was great as well as the meat quality is so outstanding.

A separate chapter should be probably written about the wines accompanying your meal. The good parillas have wine lists north of 100 items. To your representative on the ground, a true porteño (person living in Buenos Aires) reminded me gently but firmly that only a good Malbec would do. Not negotiable.

almost all parrillas are excellent

A list of the best steakhouses seems to be a highly contentious issue starting major arguments among the connoisseurs. I am definitely not a parilla expert but I liked those.

Parrilla Peña. A no fuss restaurant with heavenly provoleta and good steaks. Traditional and local. You will not go bankrupt by going there.

You can also attend a “private” parrilla dinner. Some chefs open doors to a private house where a group of (mainly foreign) tourists will gather to go through a parrilla dinner in a more personal setting. The upside is that you will probably meet some interesting people sharing at least some of your interests (you all flew to Buenos Aires and opted for this “private” steak experience), so the evening will likely be lovely. I managed to sign up in one and my experience is somewhat mixed. The other tourists were interesting with great stories from around the world, the house and the garden were nice, but the food was less memorable than in the earlier parrilla restaurants.

Other excellent places include Don Julio, La Brigada or La Cabrera. A bit more touristy but venerable institutions which have been around for a long time. They must be doing something right even in the fastidious eyes of the local customers.

Beyond this serious sit-down affair, Buenos Aires also perfected the art of eating excellent meat on the go. This delicious invention is called choripán, a grilled chorizo sausage in a humble bun. Served with good chimichurri sauce, absolutely heavenly. Try one at Nuestra Parrilla in San Telmo and feel like a local in the know. This is real stuff: many locals, little English spoken, and excellent food. And all for a few dollars. Definitely try.

Art Nouveau architecture in Buenos Aires.

Spanish or Italian

After this tonne of high-quality parrilla, probably time will come when you will crave something lighter. And, given its strong immigrant roots, this city will offer incredible Spanish or Italian restaurants.

Close to the Recoleta cemetery, El Burladero is simply excellent. Already the bread, olives and some wine in this elegant restaurant are full of flavor and wholesome. Paella or squid are as good as in Spain or best places in Florida. And, for the closing note, forget the calories, forget the cholesterol, close your eyes, and enjoy the crema catalana. On the more pricey side, try the lunch set menu.

On the Italian side, La Parolaccia is a great option. It has several locations including the more touristy ones on the shore. However, the Barrio Norte outpost was very traditional with local guests, a jovial waiter and no rush anywhere. Excellent food in a nice atmosphere, it is clear the locals are coming here regularly to enjoy a meal in a tranquil place. On the more expensive side, open also during lunch hours.

Sweet tooth

Alfajores are traditional Argentine cookies made with dulce de leche, a caramel-like sauce, sandwiched between two cookies. For extra carbohydrates, it dusted with powdered sugar.

Dulce de Leche is a caramel-like spread made from condensed milk. It is often used as a filling in pastries, and as a topping for ice cream.

When it comes to drinks, Buenos Aires is known for its delicious wine and mate, a traditional Argentine tea-like drink made from dried leaves of the yerba mate plant.

Internet

Wifi widely available, speeds can vary. Working (including Zoom, etc.) usually possible.

Overall Tips

(1) Bring cash. USD and EUR have the best exchange rates. Needed for small eateries.

Costs

Overall, Buenos Aires is offering a stunning city with excellent food at prices well below NYC, San Francisco, London or Paris.

Overall, this Buenos Aires travel guide thinks a good price-value ratio.

Buenos Aires Overall Rating

An excellent choice for an extended city break. It will take a long time to get there from the US, Europe or Asia so spend a few days.

WHERE TO GO NEXT

Beyond this Buenos Aires travel guide, please consider some other places nearby. South America is a big continent and travel there is taking time. Patagonia or Mendoza are excellent destinations. Alternatively, leave the mainland well behind you and go to the Easter Island. You will not forget those enigmatic moai statues and the island remoteness anytime soon.