This Uzbekistan travel guide is based on our 2022 trip and has the following sections:
- Why Visit
- Itinerary
- Border Crossings
- Uzbekistan in Numbers
- Covid-19 Restrictions
- Visas
- When to Visit
- Safety
- Top 5 Things in Uzbekistan
- Transportation
- Accommodation
- Food
- Internet
- Overall Tips
- Uzbekistan Overall Rating
- ALL POSTS ABOUT UZBEKISTAN
Why Visit
A largely undetected gem in Central Asia. This destination will definitely become a major tourist magnet in the next 3-5 years.
Stunning Islamic cities of Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva on par with Cairo in Egypt, Alhambra in Spain, Istanbul in Turkey or Petra in Jordan. Interesting nature with the Fergana Valley and the memorable Aral Sea. And you can easily combine Uzbekistan with the stunning mountains in Tajikistan or Kyrgyzstan.
In addition, the country is rapidly modernizing with excellent train and road networks. Uzbekistan was largely closed to the international tourists with a strict visa regime until 2017. Back then, getting a visa and then crossing the border was a complex and time-consuming affair. However, great news that the country decided to open up and embraced tourism as one of the its key development paths.
The tourist infrastructure is already in place and quickly expanding with many atmospheric renovated hotels and restaurants in main cities. Uzbekistan Railways upgraded their trains and tracks and nowadays you can travel from Samarkand to Bukhara in a Spanish-manufactured Afrosiyob train in 2 hours at speeds up to 250km/h. A breeze just for a few dollars one way.
Uzbekistan has also some of the best fruits and vegetables that you will ever taste. Uzbeks are saying that they are “full of sunshine” and they are incomparably better than the standard offering in Chicago, London or Berlin.
Moreover, Uzbekistan seems to try to maintain positive relations with the neighboring countries. Consequently, all borders are currently open and straightforward to cross.
In summary, a country with stunning gems and a sense of optimism definitely on the upward trajectory.
Please visit before the waves of foreign tourists descend.
Itinerary
In my opinion, Samarkand and Bukhara clearly must be seen. Khiva is further out with an additional 6.5 hour trip from Bukhara, so 2 days just for traveling. Alternatively, you could fly to Nukus for about $60 one-way and then go to Khiva, and then travel backwards to Bukhara and then Samarkand. Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva are the three tourist juggernauts in Uzbekistan with some additional second-tier venues.
I think Tashkent is just the capital of Uzbekistan with few interesting sites for a tourist, and definitely not comparable with Samarkand, Bukhara or Khiva. However, it is a good transportation hub, for example, if you want to go to Almaty in Kazakhstan by a modern European-built train, or to Fergana valley or Andijan for the Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border crossing to Osh. Otherwise, most travellers leave Tashkent soon after arriving.
If looking for some nature in Uzbekistan, Fergana valley or Margilan are definitely nice. There are also outstanding mountains within a few hours away n the neighboring Tajikistan or Kyrgyzstan.
In other words, if looking for some excellent cultural experience combined with amazing nature, I think a combination of Samarkand/Bukhara/Khiva (or just the first two if you are short of time) with mountains in either Tajikistan or Kyrgyzstan would make for an excellent 2-3 week itinerary. 2 weeks would be a mad rush, but 3 weeks would be more comfortable with mountains and lakes in either Tajikistan or Kyrgyzstan.
Therefore, a nice combo would be to fly into Samarkand, Bukhara or Tashkent (with a connecting flight to Nukus for Khiva), and then overland to either Tajikistan (depart from Dushanbe) or Kyrgyzstan (depart from Osh or Bishkek). Please note that flights from Dushanbe are usually more expensive than flying to (or from) Kyrgyzstan.
Border Crossings
The land border crossings with Kyrgyzstan or Tajikistan are straightforward and without all the pre-2017 hassle.
The Samarkand-Penjakent for Uzbekistan-Tajikistan border crossing is efficient and straightforward (How to cross the Uzbekistan – Tajikistan border).
The Andijan-Osh for Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border crossing is also easy (Uzbekistan – Kyrgyzstan border at Dostyk).
Uzbekistan in Numbers
Population: 33 million
Capital: Tashkent
Language: Uzbek (English spoken in tourist areas)
Currency: Uzbek som (UZS)
Exchange rate (September 2022): USD 1 = UZS 10,962, EUR 1 = 10,981, GBP 1 = 12,520
Electricity: standard European 220V, standard European plugs
Covid-19 Restrictions
The Covid-19 requirements are changing quickly. So this Uzbekistan travel guide is being updated but please check the restrictions before your departure.
As of November 2022, NONE.
No testing required prior to departure or after arrival, no vaccination certificates have to be presented, no quarantine.
Same for both the airport arrivals and land crossings.
Visas
Most countries are either exempt or can receive a visa on arrival. The remaining countries can apply for e-visa, which is similar to many other straightforward e-visa websites.
When to Visit
March to November is best. The summer (June-August) is scorchingly hot with 40C (105F) and higher common. However, this heat is dry. For me 36C in Bukhara in August was easier than 30C in humid New York or London (also lovingly known as the free Manhattan sauna).
From mid-August, the temperatures in Samarkand and Bukhara are starting to drop. Still in their 30C but 45C unlikely to be seen again. As a result, the tourists are starting to arrive in larger numbers, including the tour groups. This has two unpleasant consequences. Firstly, the accommodation prices are going up by 20%. Secondly, the tickets on the outstanding fast Afrosyob trains are becoming more scarce.
Winter is cold, but you would have the amazing Registan in Samarkand largely to yourself. You would probably also spend a lot of time drinking hot tea in the local cafes to warm up, with hats and gloves indispensable.
Safety
Overall, a safe country. People in Uzbekistan are largely friendly with a positive attitude to tourists. In addition, the government created a tourist police, which is widely present in the top tourist sites. They are friendly, speak English and seem to be happy to answer any question. Got lost? Ask them. Where is the closest good restaurant? Ask them. Being cheated by a taxi driver? Call 102 (the tourist police hotline).
Gently mentioning the tourist police and the magic 102 number did a small wonder to my friendly taxi driver in Samarkand, who erroneously tried to increase the fare three times upon arrival at my hotel. Of course, an unintended mistake, which got corrected immediately.
Top 5 Things in Uzbekistan
Uzbekistan has three tourist juggernauts: Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva. Other areas are less visited and accordingly have less tourist infrastructure, which might be their charm, if this is what you are looking for.
(1) Visit Samarkand with the stunning Registan, one of the pearls of the Islamic architecture worldwide
(2) Spend 2-3 leisurely days in Bukhara, a compact medieval Silk Road town
(3) See the small but atmospheric Khiva, another Silk Road site
(4) Take a slow train (Sharq) to meet fellow Uzbek passengers and enjoy their hospitality (you will become almost a family by the arrival time)
(5) Visit the Fergana Valley (Margilan): friendly off-the-beaten path for foreign tourists
Transportation
Train (favorite in this Uzbekistan travel guide)
Excellent, the best way to travel. The Uzbekistan Railways upgraded their tracks and purchased the modern Spanish-manufactured Talgo trains. You will travel up to 250 km/h as proudly displayed in the Afrosyob carriages. As a result, the Tashkent-Samarkand or Samarkand-Bukhara will take approximately 2 hours each. Unfortunately, the track to Khiva has not been upgraded yet, so Bukhara-Khiva takes 6 hours (ouch).
You can buy tickets in person at the stations, or on the Uzbekistan Railways website or app. I used the app: intuitive, clearly designed and accepts international credit cards. The app delivers your ticket in the app, which is also available when your phone is offline (great). In addition, you will receive an email with the pdf version. Either is fine to show to the train conductor when boarding the train. You do NOT have to print out the ticket to board.
Please set the default language to English first as it will make the booking a breeze without any requirement for the Russian language.
How to buy Uzbekistan train ticket will help.
Car
There is also a new highway infrastructure similar to Turkey. However, the trains are still clearly preferred as they are considerably faster, more comfortable and with excellent air-conditioning.
You can take a long-distance coach or bus, or a taxi but probably only when the trains are sold out. Unfortunately, this happens regularly in the peak tourist season.
Uzbekistan does not have Uber or Lyft, but everybody is using Yandex Go.
If you cannot download or register on your phone, ask your hotel staff or any pedestrian on the street to order a Yandex Go taxi for you. Unlike Uber or Lyft, you pay the driver directly so no issue.
Accommodation
In the three main tourist cities accommodation is widely available across the whole spectrum from dorms to luxury. The price level in Uzbekistan is similar to Morocco, Turkey or Jordan.
Some hotels or homestays in Bukhara or Khiva are absolutely stunning. Those old merchants’ houses with spacious internal courtyards have been artfully renovated and furnished. They will be some of the highlights of your stay in Uzbekistan.
IMPORTANT. Every accommodation has to register you with the authorities and provide you with a copy. Collect all those registration forms as they might be required when leaving Uzbekistan.
I took a photo of each individual one, and the electronic versions were accepted at the border. However, to be on the safe side, please keep the paper copies as well.
Food
No Uzbekistan travel guide can be without the food section.
Uzbekistan offers similar cuisine to the other Central Asian countries. You will see a lot of plov (rice pilaf with meat and vegetables), shashlik (kebab), manti (dumplings), bifstek (steak), fried chicken, lagman (noodles with vegetables and meat in dry or in soup), corba (clear soup), and freshly-baked bread.
Initially, the food tastes great, but becomes repetitive pretty quickly. Be careful with plov in Uzbekistan: it has more fat and might lead to stomach problems if consumed every day as many tourists can admit (including truly yours). By the end of the Central Asia trip, I could not look at plov anymore.
However, the fruits and vegetables are excellent and offer the much-needed change. Fresh figs, various melons or grapes are delicious and way better than what the supermarkets in Chicago, London or Berlin are selling.
Moreover, the freshly-baked bread and buns with or without fillings (e.g., the round “lepyoshka”) are excellent. At the end of the trip, a fresh melon with warm bread was a dinner of choice.
Vegetarians will face even less choice as tofu or tempeh are not popular.
Internet
Wifi widely available in hotels and hostels, speeds can vary. Working (including Zoom, etc.) is usually possible in most accommodations. It is usually free.
Wifi might be available in some public places (e.g., airports) but might require a text confirmation with a code sent to your phone. Caution: Some venues accept only an Uzbek phone number.
Getting a local SIM is straightforward and quick. Packages vary across providers, shop around for the current best offer.
Overall Tips
(1) Bring cash. USD and EUR have the best exchange rates. No private exchange offices, you will have to change at banks. The process is straightforward though. Go to cash teller, who will change the money on the spot. No special tourist forms to fill. Cash is predominantly used with credit cards more popular at the high-end hotels.
Uzbekistan Overall Rating
Highly recommended, one of the highlights of the independent travel. Stunning historical sites excellent transportation, clean and safe. No other countries in Central Asia can boast of similar Islamic historic treasures.
An amazing country to combine with the mountains either in Tajikistan or Kyrgyzstan (or both!). Visit now before it becomes overcrowded with Western tourists.
Beyond this overall Uzbekistan travel guide, below are all articles about transportation, and Samarkand and Bukhara which you will probably visit.
