This guide describes how to get to the Gili islands from Lombok or Bali in Indonesia. Given the islands are small, you will come on a boat. However, there are a few different kinds with vastly dissimilar prices.
Secondly, there are three three islands next to Lombok: Gili Air (closest to Lombok), Gili Meno and Gili Trawangan (Gili T).
Which Gili island is right for you?
They all have a distinct personality, so the question is which Gili island in Indonesia is right for you. I definitely did not know so our thought process below.
One guide summarized it succinctly: Gili T is for people in their 20-30s, Air for 30-40s and Meno for, and here he waved his hand in respect.
Gili T is definitely the party island similar to Ibiza or Majorca in the Mediterranean. The parties are legendary and can be well heard across the water in Meno. Days might start well past noon but the energy of the place is sometimes incredible.
Meno, on the other hand, has a reputation as a “honeymoon island” with the smallest size, less development and secluded luxury accommodations. However, a local warung (local restaurant) owner said that those honeymooners had been into some noisy parties lately.
Air is the mix between those two with many homestays and restaurants and many tourists there. However, Air is still ticking according to its own clock with most shops closing at 5-6pm. The atmospheric restaurants on the beach have only a few tourists each, who can enjoy their ocean breeze without any distraction. Tranquility, soothing music or a single guitar playing, and the sound of waves. All under a million stars. Blissful.
How to get there?
You can get to all Gili islands from (1) Lombok or (2) Bali. Schedules and prices for both below.
(1) Lombok – Gili (Air, Meno or Trawangan)
Step (1a) Go to Bangsal
Bangsal is the Lombok entry point to all Gili islands. When you approach the harbor, the main building with the waiting area is ahead of you. Disregard all the touts selling tickets at inflated prices, disregard their helpful comments (“I have the last two tickets”) and continue. If coming in a (shared) taxi, you will go through the security gate and park in the small parking lot on the right hand side.
Step (1b) Fast or slow boat?
In general, you will have to decide if you want to go to your Gili island on a fast or a slow boat. Your last homestay, guides and touts will try to convince you that the best, fastest, safest and whatever other adjective they can come up with, is the fast boat. You will hear that it only takes 5 minutes to Gili Air (in reality 7-10 depending on the waves). And it is only IDR 85,000 ($6) for a one-way ticket. And that is the lowest direct price. You will pay IDR 100,000 from any touts with the initial prices quoted even higher.
In theory it is a relative bargain if you compare this with a PATH ticket across the Hudson river in New York or the tube and the Thames in London.
However, the slow boat takes only 15 minutes to Gili Air and is only IDR 20,000 ($1.40). True, you will not depart from the shiny modern terminal, where all the tourists are waiting. If you decide to catch the slow boat, you will board your boat beyond the parking lot, where you arrived. You will buy a ticket at the white office and receive a paper ticket.
The slow boat is not departing on fixed schedule. It is departing when full (30 passengers).During the busy morning and noon timeframes, even if you have ticket #6, you will probably wait no longer than 15-20 minutes.
Finally, You will ride with the locals who will immediately offer you a smile and a good seat.
Step (1c) Gili Air arrival
The first stop for all boats is Gili Air. All boats arrive at the same harbor. There will probably be a mad rush among the local residents to disembark when the boat is still bouncing. A better idea to wait an extra minute.
Step (1d) Continue to Gili Meno or Gili Trawangan
After staying in Gili Air if you want to continue to Gili Meno or Gili T, there are again two options.
(1)Slowboats at 8:30 and 15:00 daily for IDR 40,000-45,000 ($3) one way. Departure from the same harbor where you arrived.
All Gili slowboat departure times.
(2) Fastboats approximately every hour as per the schedule below for IDR 85,000 ($5.70) one way. Departure from the same harbor where you arrived.
All Gili fastboat departure times.
(1e) Continue to Bali
If you want to go to Bali, the departure times are 11:30, 11:45 and 15:00 dailyfor IDR 300,000 one way.Departure from the same harbor where you arrived.
(2) Bali (Padangbai) – Gili (any)
Step (2a) Go to Padangbai
1.5 hours from Amed (IDR 150,000 shuttle bus per person one way)
1 hour from Ubud or Sanur (IDR 70,000 shuttle bus per person one way)
Step (2b) Fast or slow ferry?
Decide if you want to travel by fast (1 hour) or slow ferry (5 hours). Schedules and prices below.
Padangbai – Gili and Gili – Padangbai ferry schedule. Padanbai to Gili and Lombok ferry schedule and prices (1). Padangbai to Gili and Lombok schedule and prices (2).
Covid certificates
NO covid certificates or the Peduli Lindungi were requested on any of my crossings, either on slow or fast boats on any connection Bali-Gili-Lombok.
No request when purchasing tickets, boarding or leaving on any of the boats.
Where to go next?
If you are going to Lombok, Tetebatu (Lombok) is a beautiful traditional Indonesian village with rice fields, wild monkeys in the forest, waterfall, and amazing food.
Mt Rinjani is one of the biggest volcanoes in Indonesia. A Mt Rinjani (Lombok) Hike will be a tougher but hugely rewarding experience.
Mount Rinjani is the one of the biggest volcanoes in Indonesia. At 3,726m (12,224 ft) it dwarfs central Lombok and its majestic views are magnificent. Hiking Mt Rinjani is the top things to do for trekkers coming to Lombok. A major accomplishment, which you can then celebrate in Senggigi or Kuta on Lombok, or the Gili islands.
In addition to the rice fields, jungle and volcano views, your guide might show some interesting local culture and the animist beliefs. He might show you a sacred place where the village is gathering to honor the Spring spirits. The ceremonial sacrifice with chickens is taking place here.
Sacrificial ceremony site for the Spring spirits in Rinjani.
How to get there?
Mt Rinjani is located in the centre of the northern part of Lombok. It is easily reachable from the Lombok airport, Mataram (the capital city), Tetebatu (traditional village in the south of the volacano), Senggigi (beaches on the western coast) or Bangsal (harbor to the Gili islands).
A recommendation when going around the eastern coast (e.g., from Tetebatu or the Lombok airport). Instead of just going directly to Senaru, stop in Sembalun (lovely village with excellent homestays), Bayan (a traditional village, the oldest mosque in Lombok at 300 years with the unique mix of the Islamic and animist beliefs), and finally Senaru. If negotiated in advance, the taxi price will be similar and you will have a few interesting places on the road and eat some delicious food (e.g., in Bayan).
Overall, you can scale Mt Rinjani from two major starting points: Sembalun or Senaru. Both sites have their supporters, Senaru might have slightly better views. In both places there are numerous trekking agencies and all homestays also organize tours.
Taxi prices to Mt Rinjani
All prices are for a whole car, one way:
Tetebatu –Sambulan (east of Mr Rinjani): IDR300,000 (1.5 hours)
IMPORTANT. If you book a 3 days / 2 nights Mt Rinjani hike in Senaru, many homestays or agencies will INCLUDE the transportation BOTH ways from the Lombok airport or Mataram in the hiking price.
How to select an agency?
(1) Selecting The Hike
The hiking path is relatively fixed with all agencies following a similar route. The difference comes in the quality of the guide, porters, their equipment and the food. Overall, there are budget, standard and luxury hikes.
Each hike usually includes use of agency’s equipment (e.g., tent), the luxury hikes also include tables or chairs. The luxury hikes offer also better food, and some even bring beer to the mountain!
In my opinion, this is all interesting. However, the biggest differentiator if a hike is successful, safe and enjoyable is the quality of the guide and the trekkers.
It is absolutely a reasonable request to meet the guide before deciding on an agency. The best guides are not only knowledgeable and experienced with a few years of guiding experience, and probably a few of the porter’s experience before. They are friendly and realistic during the hike how to (a) reach your target, (b) do it safely, and (c) do it in an enjoyable way for the tourists.
(2) Prices
The prices below are “good / negotiated” prices for a standard tour (NOT luxury). Some agencies will quote much higher prices initially. You can reduce them by negotiating or finding other tourists to participate in the same group.
(1) Mt Rinjani top: 3 days / 2 nights: IDR 2,500,000 including the permits, all food, and Lombok airport transportation both ways. Per person in a group of up to 8 guests.
(2) Mt Rinjani crater rim: 3 days / 2 nights: IDR 2,000,000 including the permits, all food, and Lombok airport transportation both ways. Per person in a group of up to 8 guests, 1 guide. Approximately 70% of the views of (1) but significantly easier.
(3) Mt Rinjani lake: same as above for the Mt Rinjani crater rim (2)
(4) “Panorama walk”: 6 hour walk around the rice fields, jungle forest and to the Tiu Kelep waterfalls. Usually offered by the homestay, price: IDR 50,000 – 200,000 depending on the number of guests. Similar to the Tetebatu (Lombok) walk.
Final Mt Rinjani Hike Thoughts
No matter which hike you select, it will probably be a good workout and might push you (quite a bit). The views will be spectacular and you will return with a strong sense of achievement.
Regarding the weather, the weather is getting more unpredictable on Lombok. Historically the dry season runs until September or October, with September a great dry, sunny and warm month for hiking. In 2022 the rains started early and the hiking in September was already muddy and slippery.
This guide describes how to get from the Jakarta airport (CGK) to the city center on various taxis.
The current transportation options include Blue Bird, black and Grab taxis, train and bus. For the Jakarta airport-city center I think the train is the overall best. Grab is the second best for destinations away from the train station.
(1) Blue Bird taxi
The cheapest of the official taxis which do not have to pre-ordered. Exit the terminal 3 (international if this is where you have cleared the immigration and claimed your luggage). Turn left and go to “Bay 3”. Cross the narrow through road and there will be a line of light blue taxis with the “Bluebird” sign on top.
Those are the official taxis with the registered meters running. At the airport you cannot fix the price in advance but rely on the meter. The electronic displays all trip details including trip duration, distance, charge, and driver’s name. The Blue Bird vehicles are cheapest official taxi chain.
In theory, you should assume that (1) the driver knows the way to your destination, (2) is taking the most convenient route and (3) you pay the meter price at the end of the ride.
Regrettably, that is only the theory. The CGK Blue Bird drivers are notorious in trying to squeeze some extra money on top of the displayed price. (1) Miraculously they never have change to give. (2) At the end of the trip they claim there is a special airport taxi parking fee of e.g., IDR 100,000 ($7). (3) There is a special luggage fee of e.g., IDR50,000 ($3.50) or IDR100,000 ($7).
A one-way ride to the Jakarta city center should cost around IDS200,000 ($13.30) and take approximately 50 minutes.
Unfortunately, none of these is true. In addition, some of them do not know the route when starting or stop on the way to ask while running the meter.
Once in the car, it is difficult to do much. They profess not to understand English (or another common tourist language). At the end of the trip you might discuss and negotiate. Or you can pay, take photos of the meter and the license plates and promise to make a written complaint. Sometime it makes wonders.
(2) Black taxi
Similar to the “black cars” in New York, except they are more aggressive in trying to convince you to ride with them. Many time unmetered or with an unreliable device. The sky is the limit for the price. Avoid.
(3) Grab
Grab is a car-sharing app similar to Uber or Lyft in the U.S., Yandex Go or Kareem.
Ordering a Grab is almost always cheaper than the Blue Bird taxi by 10-20%. Ordering is relatively straightforward, even though the Grab did not have many locations in Jakarta or Lombok.
(4) Train
Probably the overall best way to the Jakarta city center. A one-way ticket costs IDR70,000 ($4.70) and it takes 50 minutes to the main train station in Jakarta.
(5) Damri Bus
The cheapest way to the Jakarta city center. Damri buses are leaving from the Jakarta airport to Gambir train station, main station in Jakarta. The one-way ticket is IDR40,000 ($2.70).
Where to stay close to the Jakarta airport?
Travelers Home is 15 minutes away from the airport – perfect if arriving late and catching a flight the following morning. Spotlessly clean, modern, strong hot shower, Chandra and his son Patrick speak fluent English and are helpful and responsive. Highly recommended.
If you are looking for a traditional village life in Lombok, Tetebatu is your place. It reminds a bit of Ubud 10 years ago (or 20 as some say). Stunning rice fields pretty much in any direction you look, sometimes from your window. Serenity and tranquility. As a tourist you still stand out, but still as an object of interest and not a source of overcharged prices. Children still yell “Hello” ten times at you, the adults return the greetings with a natural smile. Feels normal, unpressured and without stress.
As there are no bigger commercial hotels, you will stay in a homestay. And this is excellent news because most likely you enjoy a modern, comfortable and clean room or bungalow with the local artistic elements. Secondly, you will meet the local family, who are predominantly polite and helpful. And let’s not forget the amazing local food, which they will prepare for you.
Beware, few tourists with no open partying. This is a conservative Islamic area with daily calls to prayer. Feels galaxies away from Kuta in Bali.
How to get there?
From the Lombok airport, there is basically only one option: a taxi. There are two options here. (1) You can pre-order one from your accommodation in Tetebatu, this is standard and all of them do it. (2) Negotiate with a taxi driver at the airport. As always, this is an invitation to spend some time haggling as it is guaranteed that the initial prices will be unreasonably high.
At the end of the day, my experience has been that the homestay pre-ordered price is usually better even after some serious negotiating. In other words, the end cost is similar without all the mental energy lost in the haggling process.
The current prices to Tetebatu (whole car one way):
This is one of those places to leave your busy life behind and immerse yourself in something totally different. You are guaranteed to remember those moments when you are back in your daily life running to the next deadline. And they will provide a consolation that the current crisis will be over soon and that another world actually really exists.
In Tetebatu you will sample the elements of the local life. There will be no distractions of cool bars or restaurants, or another earth-shattering disco. You will walk through the rice fields. Search for and feel the elation of spotting the monkeys. Do a long walk around the village, which takes at least 2 hours as it is so spread out. Stand under the waterfall in a cave for a few minutes. And then, with a feeling of mission accomplished, you will enjoy a meal in a local restaurant (“warung”). It might include the rice growing in the adjacent field and fish, which just has been picked from the restaurant’s own fishery (please visit Lesehan to verify this with your own eyes).
Specifically, these are the bucket list options, which are offered by every homestay:
(1) Go on a walk organized by your homestay
It will take 4-5 hours and include lunch. Initially, you will walk through the rice fields and your guide will explain different grains, their growth cycle and impact of water, sun, pesticides, and harvest changes.
Afterwards, you will go to the Tetebatu waterfall for a welcome break. After changing into your beach gear in a dress room, you will walk through the cave to the small waterfall. A pure bliss to stand there after the relentless sun in the rice fields before. The cold water will rejuvenate you within a few minutes and you will return full of energy.
With this positive attitude you will go to the Monkey Forest. Most likely you will find at least one large family, which will be feeding, playing or sleeping in the tall trees. Quite a spectacle to see them jumping among fragile branches 10-15 meters above.
You will then walk to a local warung, where the local curries, chicken and fish will be waiting for you.
All homestays offer a similar itinerary with the approximate IDR50,000 – 100,000 cost per person.
(2) Local events in Tetebatu
You will have a chance to see a stick fighting game. It is a local tradition, the fight is energetic but without major injuries. Definitely for tourists but there are locals as well.
Visiting the pottery or weaving workshops and coffee roasting are additional activities offered by all homestays. You might also like cooking a local Lombok meal with the other tourists and your host family, highly recommended.
(3) Own walk
Equipped with GPS-guided map walking around in this stunning neighborhood by yourself is excellent. The views are excellent, everybody is nice, you can stop for the flavorful Indonesian coffee or some fresh local food every few minutes.
Overall, in comparison with the touristy Bali and Kuta in Lombok, fewer tourists visit Tetebatu. But I am yet to meet one who came and was disappointed.
Where to stay?
I stayed at the outstanding Al Sasaki homestay. The bungalows are modern, comfortable, clean and designed with elegant local elements. The owner and his family speak fluent English, are polite and helpful, and will meet your requests. In addition, their home-made food is excellent. Highly recommended.
Where to eat?
Your homestay. It will probably serve some incredible home-made food. Try the local sasak food.
Warung Lesehan next to the waterfall serves its own rice and fish. Oktavia warung is good as well.
Is Tetebatu the next Ubud?
This is the question which you will hear in Tetebatu a few times. Firstly, Ubud has been phenomenally successful over the last 5 years. The town has changed massively, even in spite of the pandemic. It continues to draw ever larger visitor numbers and has become one of the cornerstones on the Indonesia tourist trail. However, the noisy traffic jams form from 5am to 10pm. The construction seems to be a 24/7 operation (please verify the big sites along the main road when you arrive). The arrival of Starbucks and the Ralph Lauren shops.
On the other hand, Tetebatu is in early stages of its development. Yes, it has similar rice fields, a monkey forest and a cool waterfall. But it still does not have a clearly-defined center, where tourists get together to eat, shop and swap stories. It will surely come but, for now, Tetebatu remains a quiet and traditional place for the pioneers.
What to do next?
It depends if you (1) want more less touristy things or (2) return to the tourist areas.
(1) go north for the off-beaten-track placessuch as Mt Rinjani (Lombok) Hike and the traditional Bayan village with a mix of the Islamic and animist culture. The volcano views are excellent and you can do several hikes ranging from day (“Panorama Walk”), to climb to the crater rim or lake (3 days / 2 nights) or reach the summit (more strenuous 3 days / 2 nights).
This Indonesia travel guide has the following sections below. It also covers entry requirements (visa and covid 19 vaccinations and tests), which are changing frequently. The information is being updated and is current as of January 2023. Please check the current restrictions before you depart for Indonesia.
It is rare that one country, even as large as Indonesia, can boast of so many advantages. 17,000 islands with unique cultures, food and nature. Sunny and warm weather. The spiritual and beautiful Bali including the Gilis. Stunning Lombok, a Bali from 10-20 years ago. The Komodo dragons and the Padar island. Orangutans in Sumatra or Kalimantan (Borneo). Traditional villages and Tana Toraja on Sulawesi. Quiet Sumbawa. Amazing Raja Ampat.
Excellent transportation with Air Asia, Lion, Batik and Super Air Jet linking all islands. Amazing food varying across the islands. Friendly people across cultures and religions.
It is far away from Europe or the U.S. but those long flights will pay off. Guaranteed.
Indonesia in Numbers
Population: 280 million
Capital: Jakarta
Language: Bahasa Indonesia (English widely spoken in tourist areas)
Electricity: standard European 220V, standard European plugs
Covid-19 Restrictions
The Covid regulations are changing quickly so this Indonesia travel guide is being updated regularly with new changes. The information here is current as of January 2023.
As of January 2023 in the Jakarta airport, you have to show the proof of vaccinations. If you have two vaccinations and a booster, you will NOT have to quarantine or show a negative Covid-19 test.
Peduli Lindungi app
In summary, my Peduli Lindungi app was NOT working, but my electronic vaccination certificates were accepted without ANY issues. A detailed description of my arrival process in the Jakarta airport (CGK) is below.
The Indonesia government’s Peduli Lindungi app is mentioned by some airlines as required prior to landing. In my experience when doing it from abroad before my flight to Jakarta, I did download it from the iPhone’s App Store successfully but was unable to register.
This has proven to be NO problem. I arrived at the Jakarta airport and was asked by an immigration officer standing in the hallway (NOT at the visa-on-arrival counter, VOA) for the Peduli Lindungi app. I showed him that I downloaded that on my phone, but was unable to register. No more questions, a smile and a polite invitation to continue to the Covid-19 counter.
Next you will go to a Covid-19 counter, where a polite lady will write down your passport details and and request the vaccination certificates. I showed her my THREE (2 vaccinations plus booster) electronic certificates on my phone. That was accepted immediately. I did not have to show the paper copies of the certificates, even though I did have them as a backup.
The lady issued a confirmation slip that I had shown my covid vaccination certificates. Important: do NOT throw it away, you will need it in 1 minute at the visa-on-arrival counter.
Overall, a polite and non-stressful process which was completed in 5 minutes.
Visas
Most nationalities need a visa-on-arrival (VOA) or an advance visa.
The visa on arrival process was straightforward and efficient for me. After showing my Covid vaccination certificates, you turn left to the VOA booths. When I was there, all of them were occupied and the tourist lines were short.
They will ask you for your passport and a confirmation slip from the vaccination lady. Then they will ask for a payment of IDR500,000 ($33). You can pay either in IDR cash or with a credit card. Your card will be swiped, payment confirmed and 60 seconds later you will receive your visa in your passport.
Extending your visa takes more time and effort if applying directly, especially in the tourist areas. Use one of many visa offices instead. For $20 more they will usually speed up the process and reduce the amount of additional required paperwork.
Also, you will have to fill out a customs form on arrival. When approaching the arrival area you will see signs with the customs QR code. Please scan it and do the download (free strong airport wifi is available in this area).
Fill out the form and show your phone screen when exiting the arrivals area.
In case of any problem, there is a desktop computer terminal. You do not have to download anything but input your details into the form. Print out a confirmation slip that you have successfully completed that (there is a free small printer next to the desktop). In case of any questions, there is an immigration officer who will help.
When to Visit
July to October is best as the dry season. However, the raining and dry seasons are changing with the rainy season starting early in 2022. Nobody knows when it will end but I was told a few times that April should be dry again.
Safety
Overall, it depends on where you are going. Bali, Gili islands, Lombok, Flores, Sumbawa and Sumba were safe for us in 2022. We did not have any unpleasant encounters, no (attempted) robbery, no thefts.
We had also planned to visit West Papua in Jayapura. On the ground we were advised in no uncertain terms NOT to visit due to the current safety and security concerns. Please check the safety there when you are planning to visit.
Maybe we were over cautious to miss Jayapura as few other Indonesia travel guides include a similar warning. Please double check the West Papua circumstances before your arrival.
However, beyond the humans, please protect yourself from mosquitos and other aggressive insects. For whatever reason, their bites did not want to heal that quickly for us. Please use a mosquito net when offered and use a repellent overnight. Strong air condition flow overnight is also recommended.
In October-November 2022 the bees were a problem in Flores around Ruteng and Mount Inerie in particular. As requested by some guides, tourists going up the Inerie volcano should not wear red or yellow, as bees are aggressive and attacking unprovoked.
Important. If you get bitten by mengenai black bumblebees several times, you will likely have a strong allergic reaction and you will HAVE to go to hospital for a check up and potential treatment.
Please do NOT ignore those bites. To verify, mention mengenai bites to a Flores local and watch their reaction.
Top 5 Things in Indonesia
(1) Visit the spiritual and beautiful Bali
(2) Go to Lombok, a Bali from 10-20 years ago
(3) See the Komodo dragons and the impressive islands around (e.g., Padar island)
(4) Meet the orangutans on Sumatra (Medan) or Kalimantan
(5) Marvel at the traditional villages and the unique Tana Toraja on Sulawesi
Itinerary
No Indonesia travel guide would be complete without a map itinerary.
This is a 3-4 week itinerary not exceeding the usual visa-on-arrival (VOA) length of 30 days. A mix of volcanos, rice fields, history (Bali temples, hobbit man on Flores) and the Komodo dragons and snorkelling or diving.
You could also do it in a different route. From Lombok go to Sumbawa and then Flores, and do Bali at the end. However, crossing Sumbawa overland adds 4-5 days. Secondly, the island is very hot, arid and with little tourist infrastructure. On the positive side, you would be one of the very few tourists there, and you would be greeted a proverbial million times a day.
If you decide to do the overland option. That would involve three steps: (1) ferry from Lombok (1 hour), (2) buses overland to Bima (2-3 days), and (3) Ferry from Bima to Labuan Bajo (8-9 hours). You can stop by on the Moyo island on the way.
3-4 week itinerary: Bali, Gili, Lombok, Komodo and Flores.
Destination guides
For this itinerary, the following individual Indonesia travel guides will be helpful:
On all visited islands (Java, Bali, Lombok, Flores), transportation is excellent: planes, (shared) taxis, some long-distance buses and local minibuses or bemo are abundant.
You will probably arrive in Jakarta, Denpasar or Lombok. There are frequent connections to all islands. Denpasar is especially good as it covers both the eastern (Flores, Sumbawa, Sumba, Maluku, West Papua), central (Sulawesi and Java) and western islands (Kalimantan, Sumatra).
Unfortunately, there is currently no direct flight from Lombok to Labuan Bajo on Flores.
On Bali you will probably travel in private or shared taxis or shuttle buses. As there are fewer tourists in Lombok, taxis are the main transportation mode there. In Flores or Sumbawa where there are still fewer tourists (especially outside of Labuan Bajo), private taxis, local buses or local shuttle services (Gunung Mas) are mainly used.
As a cultural experience, please take a local bus at least once. In Flores you will travel with chickens and cockerels, 20kg sacks or rice or sweet potatoes, tables, boxes of kitchen tiles, and other cargo. And everybody will greet you with a broad smile.
No vehicles on the Gili islands so walking, biking or taking a horse-drawn cart.
Private ferries and fastboats have regular services in the tourist areas (e.g., Lombok-Gili-Bali).
Public ferries connect all islands but may be travelling only once or twice a week. When taking a public ferry (e.g., from Sumbawa to Flores), consider buying a VIP ticket. A $3 surcharge will offer significantly more space and much less noise.
Accommodation
Widely available across the whole spectrum from dorms to luxury at similar levels as the tourist areas in Thailand, Malaysia, Laos or Cambodia.
Hostels, homestays, guest houses, hotels and luxury accommodations usually offer good standard and value as the competition is fierce.
Indonesian Food
This is one of the most memorable parts of any Indonesia travel guide. Even though not as spicy and versatile as the Thai, Vietnamese or Indian cuisine, you are not going to forget the freshly-barbecued snapper or grouper on your Komodo or Riung boat, or in one of many fish night markets.
Excellent and varying. Given Indonesia has 17,000 islands, sea is never far away and the seafood is fresh and excellent. On the Komodo or Riung boat tours in Flores you will feast on fish caught by the boat staff 30 minutes earlier. Snapper, grouper, crab, lobster are excellent and the fish night markets are outstanding (e.g., Labuan Bajo).
Breakfast in tourist accommodations will usually include the inevitable banana pancake or the local nasi goreng (friend rice usually with egg) plus some freshly cut fruit (papaya, pineapple, banana, lime) and a freshly-squeezed juice.
Lunch and dinner have a variety of rice (nasi) or noddle (mie) dishes with excellent beef Rendang originating from Java, chicken (ayam), fish (ikan) and vegetables.
Vegetarians will have no problems with amazing tofu, tempeh and vegetables served in many different ways everywhere.
The Indonesian coffee (kopi) is stronger than Starbucks and good pretty much everywhere. International and local soft drinks are even in the smallest villages. Frequently served with ice, but that did not create any stomach problems for us.
Alcoholic beverages widely available in the tourist areas.
Internet
Wifi widely available in hotels and hostels, speeds can vary. Working (including Zoom, etc.) is usually possible in most accommodations. It is usually free.
Getting a local SIM is quick with XL or INDOSAT offering the broadest coverage across all Indonesia. In addition, there are some providers with good local service (e.g., TSEL on Lombok). Packages vary across providers, shop around for the current best offer.
Overall Tips
In addition to the standard categories in this Indonesia travel guide, some additional tips. Please do not make a similar mistake and run out of IDR cash in northern Lombok as we did!
(1) Bring cash.USD and EUR have the best exchange rates. Indonesia is a cash economy and foreign currency is NOT widely accepted. ATMs are available in tourist areas but less so in the off the beaten path (e.g., north Lombok).
Many banks in local areas do NOT exchange foreign currency. There are some private “money changers”. In my experience, the best rates were in the airports, which is usually not the case in other countries. The local banks or private money changers in local areas (e.g., Lombok) would offer IDR1,000 – 2,000 less per USD1, a huge spread.
On Gili Air the best exchange rate place is just across the harbor when you face the main street on the left hand side. The second best one (IDR100 less per $1) 5 seconds further down on the right hand side.
In Amed (north Bali) the best exchange rate place is immediately when you leave your boat on the right hand side.
When in Ubud there many private money changers on the main street offering the same exchange rate, open late until at least 8pm.
If you are in Labuan Bajo (for the Komodo tour), there are few exchange boots on the main street next to the harbor, one next to Starbucks. All offering similar competitive rates.
The exchange process is straightforward. Go to cash teller, who will change the money on the spot. No special tourist forms to fill. No passport required.
Cash is predominantly used with credit cards more popular at the high-end hotels.
Costs
Excellent price-value country. A typical hostel or homestay costs around $10-20 with mid-range hotels $15-50. $100 will usually get a stunning villa in the jungle or the rice fields.
A local meal will be $1-2 and $5-10 in mid-range restaurants in more touristy places (e.g., Bali).
Indonesia Overall Rating
Highly recommended.
So much variety in one country efficiently linked by flights, ferries, buses and taxis. Stunning natural scenery, outstanding snorkelling and diving, excellent food, safe and inexpensive.
Beyond this overall travel guide to Indonesia, below are all additional articles about transportation and individual destinations.
