Category: Algeria

Djanet

This Djanet travel guide describes a popular Sahara trip in southern Algeria starting in Djanet. It has the following sections:

Why Visit

If you like nature, and desert in particular, Sahara is one of the best. It is the largest hot desert in the world with 9.2 million square km or 3.6 million square miles. It is only smaller than the ice deserts of Antartica and the northern Arctic.

There are many types of deserts and everybody has their favorites. My top ones are Sahara, Atacama (Chile) and Kalahari (Botswana, Namibia, South Africa). Gobi in Mongolia and the Patagonian desert are still on the list, plus, of course, Antartica and Arctic. One day, as they say.

Massive rock formations around Djanet in the Sahara desert.
Rock formations around Djanet are massive. Notice the size of our truck with the Tuareg guides.

Sahara is huge

Overall, Sahara has it all. It covers parts of Algeria, Chad, Egypt, Libya, Mali, Mauritania, Morocco, Niger, Western Sahara, Sudan and Tunisia. Incredibly, it covers 25% of Africa’s landmass.

To put it in a perspective. 9.2 million square km is difficult to process, at least for me. The United Kingdom has 243,610 square km so it would fit into Sahara 38.6 times. Three Australias would get in there easily (Down Under is about 2.97 million square km).

Also, Sahara is almost as big as the United States or China.

In addition, we usually think about the Sahara as the vast amounts of tiny yellow sand. However, it is only one desert type. Sahara has sand seas, sand dunes, gravel plains, stone plateaus, dry valleys, salt flats, mountains, rivers, streams and oases.

Contrary to the sand seas in Morocco or Egypt, southern Algeria also has mountains, stone formations, dry valleys and oasis as well. And all within a drive from Djanet or Tamanrasset, a four-hour flight from Algiers, the capital of Algeria.

So where to go?

Tadrart around Djanet is considered one of the most beautiful deserts in the world. However, some prefer Assekrem around Tamanrasset, which is close nearby. In any case, they are both stunning.

When to Go

October to March are best as the summer is scorchingly hot. This Djanet travel guide recommends mid-October to November or mid-January to February.

Bear in mind this is a desert, which heats up during the sunshine quickly but drops at least 10-20 degrees Celsius during nights. In the coldest months of December and January the temperature at night may drop to freezing.

So you might be planning the New Year’s Eve without any crowds. Most likely, you will see no other soul when you are there that night. And when you are in the largest sand ballroom in the world, do not forget your gloves, hats, scarves and multi-layer clothing. Plus a good sleeping bag.

Do not make our mistake, it was utterly cold at night. But the days were perfect with 20-25C and sunny. And the evening fireplace with hot Tuareg tea and interesting conversations were awesome.

On your return flight you will probably still smell of that fireplace (as we did), but that only adds to the uniqueness of the place (as a fellow passenger on the plane told us politely).

Finally, if you can time it and arrive during full moon, this will make the trip even more impressive. A proverbial million shades of shade when you go to your tent.

Tadrart desert around Djanet at sunset.
Tadrart desert around Djanet at sunset.

Safety

Extremely important.

Before you depart for Djanet or Tamanrasset, please double check the safety and security situation.

As of November 2022, you are fine in travelling to Djanet and doing the itinerary below, including the stunning Tadrart.

However, Tamarasset is largely closed. You can only do day tours, and reportedly only on Wednesday and Sundays. And you have to have a military escort.

We did have a military companion with a real gun on earlier trips in Uganda or Egypt. Initially it felt exciting and a bit of an Indiana Jones experience. But longer term you feel more constrained and the early coolness factor disappears pretty quickly.

In any case, those regulations and the military escorts are here for a reason. Sahara around Tamanrasset is huge and has been a source of security accidents for years.

Finally, needless to say, you are not allowed to drive independently either around Djanet or Tamanrasset.

Which Tour?

So the next question is how to organize a tour. You have two main options.

(1) Book through a tourist company at home

You can book a tour at home before your departure. It will likely come with a specialist tourist company at home, which in turn will have a local company in Algeria. Most likely, the Algerian tourist office will in turn have a local Tuareg company or guide, who will, at the end, do the tour with you.

In other words, there are two intermediaries before you meet your polite Tuareg guide in Djanet. Ease of booking, a nicely formatted itinerary from your local advisor in America, China or Europe, and a (potential) peace of mind will come at a hefty markup.

Secondly, you will have little influence on the choice of your Berber company and guide.

(2) Book directly with a local Djanet company (this Djanet travel guide’s favorite)

The alternative is to search and contact some local companies. See their response time. Evaluate the quality and seriousness of their offer. Read their reviews. Everybody in the tourist industry seems to have a rating nowadays, even in the middle of Sahara.

Of course, mistakes are bound to happen. However, you will have a greater control over the choice of your guide, itinerary and any special requests. The guide business in Djanet (and everywhere else) is based on ratings and reviews. Your guide will be fully aware of that and will try to deliver the best possible experience for you. In addition to his traditional Tuareg hospitality.

Yes, we had made some serious mistakes while booking directly over the years. But they were few, and we learned a lot from them.

On balance, however, we definitely prefer the direct booking.

And on our Djanet trip we got very lucky. Our main guide was an older Tuareg gentleman with lots of experience, polite and with excellent French. Our junior guide was fluent in English and a great storyteller at the fireplace.

An unexpected meeting of the Tuareg traders. Sense of community has been critical to the survival of the Beduin over the centuries.
An unexpected meeting of the Tuareg traders.

This Djanet travel guide highly recommends supporting local businesses and contributing to the local economy (same as on all our trips). You will see the huge difference your tourist dollars, euros or pounds will make to Djanet and the Tuareg families living there.

Itinerary

So what are the itinerary choices?

Most tours starting in Djanet follow a similar path. There are two loops: the shorter northern one with Timghas, Tassili N’Ajjer, Essendilene Canyon, and Erg Admer.

The southern loop is longer and even more impressive, as it will include the large dunes at Tin Merzouga, Berdj Arch and the instagramable Tadrart.

Tegharghart can be done on either as it is close to Djanet.

Depending on how much time you have, you can do both or only one of the loops. For a 2-3 day trip you will probably go to the north, which will be great.

If you have 5-6 days, you will probably go south to Tadrart, which will be even more impressive.

Best of all, do both if your time allows.

Needless to say, all tours are flexible and your guide will adjust the itinerary to your time and personal interests.

Finally, there is also an option to walk with the camels from Essendilene to Djanet, but we did not do it.

Sahara itinerary around Djanet, Algeria.
Sahara itinerary around Djanet, Algeria.

Northern Loop

Day 1: Djanet, Timghas and Tassili N’Ajjer

Starting in the oasis of Djanet, a long drive through Timghas to Tassili N’Ajjer. Tassilli N’Ajjer is awesome with rock formations size of a building in every direction. Together with the sand they are changing color at sunset guaranteeing excellent photos.

Day 2: Tassili N’Ajjer, Essendilene Canyon and Erg Admer

The sacred canyon of the Tuaregs, Essendilene. You will probably walk through that. An easy hike taking approximately 40 minutes one way.

Overnight around the dunes in Erg Admer.

Day 3: Erg Admer, Tegharghart and Djanet

Driving back to Djanet with Tigharghart on the way. It is a rock of the “crying cows”. If you look closely, they do show cows which might really be crying.

Southern Loop (this Djanet travel guide’s favorite)

Sahara rock formations around Djanet in the southern direction of Tadrart.
Difficult to find a place which is not awesome.

Day 1: Tadrart: El Berdj Canyon

A long 200km drive to El Berdj. Overnight around those stunning stone formations.

Day 2: Tadrart: Moul’n’Aga

More stone structures with prehistoric drawings. Arriving in Wan Tabaraket with its imposing dunes. If you climb one of them, you will have an impressive view. Finally, you will get to Moul’n’Aga with more dunes, which you can scale up for the sunset.

Day 3: Tadrart: In Intihaq

Today you will see many amazing rock formations. A bit like Utah or Arizona, but on a larger scale. Arches of Tamezguida, Wan Izzawaten valley and the photogenic Inlagen arch.

Day 4: Tin Merzouga (this Djanet travel guide top place)

The previous days have been stunning. Unbelievably, Tin Merzouga will probably be even better. The “Circle” canyon and moon-like Bouhediene and Tin Merzouga views are stunning. You will have a chance to climb the dunes, about 90 minutes hike.

This is the creme de la creme of your tour. A long drive there but so worth it.

Day 5: Indjaren Canyon

After this peak, you will start driving back to Djanet through Bouhediene and its canyons, rocks and dunes. More rock drawings in the Indjaren canyon. Interestingly, there are amonites and trylobites imprints here, which suggests that there was a sea over here.

Day 6: Tegharghart, Djanet

Driving back to Djanet with Tigharghart on the way. It is a rock of the “crying cows” (same as in Day 3 in the northern loop). If you look closely, they do show cows which might be crying.

Sahara trip from Djanet in southern Algeria. Best visited Oct-Feb, otherwise 40-50C daily are normal. Two loops: northern Tassili N'Ajjer 2-3 days or southern Tadrart 4-6 days. Tadrart is even more stunning than Tassili N'Ajjer.
Your potential lunch stop at the shadow of the mountain.

Typical Day

You will be woken up around 7am, if you are not up by yourself to witness the sunrise. No matter the location, it is always picturesque with all the rock formations and dunes in any direction changing colors.

After breakfast and packing you will leave around 8-8:30am and drive for 4-5 hours making stops on the the way. Lunch and sjesta until around 3pm (yes, this dune climbing will burn lots of calories).

More driving until about 5pm where your new camp is being set up. Dinner and the atmospheric fireplace with Tuareg tea and stories afterwards. All this unpolluted fresh air is pretty exhausting, so you will probably fall asleep shortly afterwards without any problems.

The longest distance to Tin Merzouga is about 300km. You never drive when dark.

You will sleep in a tent provided by your guide. In colder months you will also get blankets and potentially a mattress.

Unlimited water from the water cooler. All meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner) are also included. They will be simple (e.g., some packaged naan bread with eggs and jam for breakfast, couscous with vegetables at dinner), but they will taste better than the Michelin-starred restaurants back home. The wonder of fresh air, movement and not overeating.

What to Take

You will be exposed to dry air and strong sunlight the whole day. And you will probably freeze (at least a bit) at night.

Secondly, the Sahara sand will get into your even smallest pocket by the end of your trip.

This Djanet travel guide recommends bringing the following:

  • Broad-rim hat
  • Winter hat
  • Scarf
  • Sunglasses
  • 50+ sunscreen
  • More 50+ sunscreen. You will be applying it all the time
  • Lip balm, otherwise your lips will probably crack
  • Eye drops
  • Warm sleeping bag
  • Dehydration powder to replenish nutrients lost as you will be sweating a lot on those dune climbs
  • Headlight (preferred) or flashlight
  • Binoculars
  • Wipes for your personal hygiene (showers available only in Djanet)
  • Antibacterial cream
  • Comfortable and sturdy shoes
  • Deodorant (solid)
  • Long pants / trousers with many pockets
  • Warm hoodie
  • Windproof jacket
  • Snacks
  • Power bars
  • Day backpack
  • Protective bag for your luggage (sand)

And, most importantly, enjoy! It might be one of the best experiences in anybody’s lifetime. Those small nuisances probably do not matter in the long run.

Forget the world, forget this Djanet travel guide, forget the do’s and don’ts of the everyday life.

Enjoy the silence, excellent views and time away from it all.

Algeria travel guide

For the overall introduction to Algeria with the visa, Covid restrictions, etc., please check Algeria.

Avoid crowds in other countries

You are probably interested (among other things) in solitude, nature and no crowds (difficult to find any in Sahara).

Beyond this Djanet travel guide, if you prefer to avoid crowds on your next trips, please check Avoid Crowds When Travelling – Top 21 Tips (2022). They include some fantastic lesser known countries, cities and destinations.

Easter Island is remote and stunning with its moai.

Uzbekistan or Kyrgyzstan are other great countries with amazing mountains, lakes and history.

For another different but amazing destination please check Indonesia, and especially the Komodo tour or Bena Traditional Village (Flores).

Algeria

This Algeria travel guide has the following sections below:

Why Visit

It is surprising that so few foreign tourists are visiting Algeria. Really, the country has so many advantages to offer. Roman monuments. An atmospheric French-looking capital of Algiers. Mediterranean coast. Mountains in the interior. Sunny and warm weather. Friendly people, especially the Tuareg in the Sahara, where hospitality is an integral component of the their culture.

However, this is still off the beaten path destination. It will take longer to travel and the tourist infrastructure is still developing. Definitely NOT as easy as a trip in Morocco, Jordan or Egypt.

Sahara (this Algeria travel guide favorite)

However, first and foremost, Algeria has an amazing desert. Not just the miles and miles of sand as in Egypt or Morocco, which are impressive nevertheless.

The south of the country is in the middle of the mighty Sahara. And this is the Sahara of incredible variety. Hundreds of miles of white sand until the horizon in every direction. Huge rock formations several floors high resembling NYC mid-rise buildings. Photogenic rock arches. Volcanos in the middle of the desert. Sudden oasis with natural water sources. Canyons with towering cliffs and dry waterfalls. Towering dunes. Pre-historic art similar to Uluru (Ayers Rock) in Australia or other African countries.

Of course, you will probably never forget the freshly-caught sardines grilled next to the fishing boat in the Algiers harbor, while sitting on the beach in the sun. But you will probably come here for the Sahara. A truly unique experience, which supposedly is matched only by the desert in the neighboring Niger or Mali (both still on our travel wish list).

Unlikely you will forget the sunrise in Tadrart or Tassili N’Ajjer around Djanet anytime soon. Or the best couscous cooked by your Tuareg guide on the fire near Tadrart. It was the cheapest bag of couscous purchased in a tiny shop in Djanet. However, after walking for hours in the Sahara sun, the best we have ever had.

Only some French tourists

Moreover, very few tourists. This is a rare country where there are still no tour buses everywhere. In addition, you still greet and talk to another foreign visitor as a bit of novelty in the south of the country.

Most tourists come from France because of the historical connections. Contrary to other possessions, Algeria was not a French protectorate but an integral part of France. Northern Algeria (Algiers, Oran, Constantine) was organized into overseas departments, with representatives in the French National Assembly. Pretty incredible that one hundred years ago you would be walking in France here. However, the 1830-1962 French presence in Algeria included decades of wars and revolts, including the long and brutal 1954-1962 War of Independence.

Also, Algeria is relatively wealthy with good infrastructure in the north, thanks to its gas reserves. Unfortunately this means that the price levels are higher than in the neighboring Morocco. Secondly, with abundant gas revenues the Algerian government seems not to have made a major push in developing tourism.

Is now the time to visit Algeria?

Given the country is so attractive and unspoilt, the question is if to visit now.

Yes, the country has had its safety and security issues, which you might have watched or read about over the years. Arguably the situation is better than before.

However, not an easy decision and you will have to make up your own mind if now is the right moment for you to visit Algeria. Given the attractiveness of the country, you will probably visit it at some timepoint anyway. But is now the right time?

Algeria in Numbers

Population: 45 million

Capital: Algiers

Language: Arabic and Tamazight (Berber) (French still popular especially among the older populations, English among the younger people)

Currency: Algerian dinar (DZD)

Exchange rate (November 2022): USD 1 = DZD 140, EUR 1 = DZD 139, GBP 1 = 162

Electricity: standard European 230V with 50Hz frequency, standard European plugs

Covid-19 Restrictions

As the Covid-19 restrictions have been changing frequently, beyond this Algeria travel guide please check them before your departure. Nobody wants to be delayed at the airport because of another certificate required.

The Covid-19 regulations in Algeria were recently updated on 20 March 2022. You will have to prove your vaccination status upon arrival. This applies to all airports, ports, and land borders.

The following vaccinations are currently available in Algeria: Sinovac, Sinopharm, Sputnik, Astra Zeneca and Johnson&Johnson.

However, the Algerian authorities accept all vaccines administered abroad, including Moderna and Pfizer.

Always have your paper vaccination certificates as a backup, if the electronic ones are not accepted for any reason.

Since 20 March 2022 you do not have to show a negative Covid-19 test (PCR or antigen) if you are vaccinated.

You will have to fill out a “Healthcare Sheet” similar to probably many that you might have completed on your trips earlier. “Fiche Sanitaire” can be done in Arabic, French and English.

The link to the Fiche Sanitaire on the Air Algerie website is:

https://airalgerie.dz/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/fiche-sanitaire.pdf

If you are not vaccinated, you will have to show a negative PCR test taken within 72 hours before arrival in Algeria. The test certificate has to be in Arabic, French or English.

Visas

Required and cumbersome to get. No visa on arrival (VOA). Apply at the local embassy.

It will be easier and quicker to get an Algerian visa if you submit an invitation and a proof of paid accommodation.

It can still take 3-4 weeks to get your visa. Visa costs $40-80 depending on your nationality.

It is valid from the date of issue, plan accordingly.

When to Visit Algeria

If you are going to Sahara in the south, October – February are the best. The day temperatures will be 20-30C, sunny and clear skies. Especially in December it can get cold at night (2-5C).

As the Sahara sand and rocks emit the day heat quickly, it might be really freezing and windy if you decide to celebrate New Year’s around Djanet or Tamanrasset (as we might have done). You will greet the upcoming year in hats, gloves, scarves, and blankets huddling over the fire, while your Tuareg guide is looking at you with polite amusement. Definitely a memorable New Year’s for a long time.

Safety

Sadly, Algeria has had safety and security issues, some also involving the foreign tourists. This Algeria travel guide recommends checking the security situation before your departure.

When going to the desert in the south of the country, you will absolutely need a guide.

Please check the current travel advice in your country. The UK or US websites are pretty informative and updated.

As of November 2022 if you are going to Sahara, the options are a bit limited. Tamanrasset is safe but the stunning Assekrem is largely off-limits to tourists. According to our guide, any tours are limited to two days per week (Wednesday, Sunday) with military escort during daytime hours only.

However, Djanet is open with unrestricted multi-day trips with no military escort permitted. Excellent news as you can visit the impressive Tadrart.

Top 5 Things in Algeria

Probably every Algeria travel guide should have a list of top destinations. Here is my attempt following interest in Sahara, history and local culture.

(1) Go on a tour of the Sahara around Djanet or Tamanrasset

(2) Visit the impressive Roman ruins in Timgad, Djemila or Tipaza

(3) Wander around the picturesque Ghardaia, a UNESCO World Heritage site

(4) Arrive in a French Belle Epoque railway station in Setif and enjoy an amazing seven-course dinner on the antique French china plates

(5) Stay for a day or two at the oasis of Taghit

Transportation

Good connections in the north, long bus or car rides (4-10 hours). Fly when going to the Sahara.

Air Algeria, ah, the story of stories. The only connection to Djanet so you will become closely acquainted with the national airline of Algeria. Our experience was that the timetable was a high-level suggestion for those flight departing around or after midnight. All local passengers took it in stride, dozing around. And then, a small miracle, happened. A 3am, without any announcement, all guests suddenly woke up, stood up and approached the boarding gate within literally 60 seconds. We departed shortly afterwards, everybody, including the airport ground staff, very happy.

Buses are widely available but the distances are long, the buses are not the most comfortable, official timetables frequently do not exist and tickets are often not available online. However, you can travel through a sizeable part of the country for $10-15.

Trains are widespread in the north. They are pretty comfortable and inexpensive as well. If you are going to Setif, take the train and arrive in the XIX century France.

Car rental is a good option in the north. The highways are good and the petrol is cheap compared with the US or Europe. However, driving in large cities is not for the tourists uninitiated in the Algerian driving styles, especially at night. In addition, parking in larger cities is frequently a nightmare.

Accommodation

Given low tourist numbers, the hotel infrastructure is still developing. The price-value relationship not as good as in the excellent Marrakesh riads in the neighboring Morocco.

Given its gas reserves and revenues, Algeria is more expensive than the neighboring Morocco. Budget hotels are $25-50, mid-range are $50-150.

Food (this Algeria travel guide favorite topic)

Algeria was part of the Ottomon empire for 300 years, was colonized by France for 132, has a Mediterranean coast, and has different Arab and Berber cuisines. In short, a wide variety of seafood, casseroles, hearty winter dishes (e.g., dobara, al-shetitha, berkoukes), Saharan food, and Turkish-originated baklava (e.g., makroud, djouzia). You will encounter couscous everywhere, including Air Algeria’s loving nickname “Air Couscous”.

Breakfast in many tourist accommodations will include shakshouka, also popular in many neighboring countries. This dish of eggs with tomato sauce with peppers and onions and freshly-baked bread is usually amazing.

Lunch and dinner might see a popular street food dish of mahjouba (a pancake with tomatoes and onions), biskwejina (Algerian pizza), tajine or the inevitable burger with fries. All with harissa, a local spicy sauce.

The traditional Tuareg tea is excellent, especially over a crackling fire in your Sahara camp. This is a tea making ritual demonstrating host’s hospitality and creating a communal spirit. After boiling the water in a kettle (which might be 50 years old thus adding to the allure) over the fire, the tea will be poured and repoured several times.

The Tuareg tea will probably be sweet and with aromatic mint. It is customary to drink three cups of tea in succession as a gesture of politeness. According to the Tuareg tradition, the first tea will be bitter like life, the second one sweet as love, and the last one would be suave like death. A favorite part of the day in the chilly December evening, mesmerizing in the light of your camp fire.

Also, alcoholic beverages are available in the north especially in the higher-end hotels and bars.

Internet

Wifi widely available in hotels and hostels, speeds can vary. Working (including Zoom, etc.) is not always possible but it is usually free.

Getting a local SIM is quick with Jezzy or Oredoo offering decent coverage.

Overall Tips

(1) Bring cash. USD and EUR have the best exchange rates. There are ATMs especially in the north of the country, but treat them as a backup. It is not uncommon for tourists to have their cards rejected. You do not want to run out of money in a small village 7 hours away from Algiers. Credit cards are accepted in upmarket hotels and larger towns.

(2) Please note there is an official exchange rate used in ATMs and the unofficial one used when exchanging cash.

(3) Drones are banned in Algeria, unless you have an official permit. Regrettably, no photos from the air in Djanet or Tamanrasset.

Costs

Given its gas reserves and revenues, Algeria is more expensive than the neighboring Morocco. Budget hotels are $25-50, mid-range are $50-150.

A local Algerian street food will be less than $5 with around $10 in mid-range restaurants. Alcohol is available especially in higher-end tourist hotels and bars.

Algeria Overall Rating

Highly recommended.

An off the beaten path destination and unspoilt by millions of tourists. Visit when the safety conditions are met.

MORE INFORMATION ABOUT ALGERIA

Sahara trip from Djanet in southern Algeria. Best visited Oct-Feb, otherwise 40-50C daily are normal. Two loops: northern Tassili N'Ajjer 2-3 days or southern Tadrart 4-6 days. Tadrart is even more stunning than Tassili N'Ajjer.
Djanet

WHERE TO GO NEXT

Beyond this Algeria travel guide and after your Sahara fix, consider Indonesia for a totally different experience. 17,000 islands, amazing snorkelling and diving and a Komodo tour. Mt Rinjani (Lombok) Hike, Bali temples and centuries-old traditions (Body Cleansing Ceremony (Bali) and Bena Traditional Village (Flores)).

Or make plans for Uzbekistan and its stunning Silk Road cities of Samarkand and Bukhara. Combine it with mountains and lakes in Kyrgyzstan.

For a list of places with lesser crowds (and how to avoid them): Avoid Crowds When Travelling – Top 21 Tips (2022).