Category: Kyrgyzstan

Jeti Oguz Sanatorium

After your hikes in Kyrgyzstan or Tajikistan, you might want to rest and recuperate your beaten-up body. It has served you well through all those hikes, nights at the cold tent, cold (or no) showers, the punishing Pamir highway schedule or the ten hour marshrutka rides, and the unavoidable stomach problems. It does deserve some appreciation, reward and rest. You might consider a day (or two) at a Soviet-era wellness center and spa. It will be a new quirky experience to add to the Kyrgyzstan memories and your body will pay back with more energy and strength. In short, go to the sanatorium next to the Jeti Oguz mountains.

You can combine your spa visit with some more magnificent mountains in the area. Good news, they will be easy and picturesque without straining your body.

But what is a “sanatorium”?

On a historical note, all of the Soviet bloc was big into health of its citizens and workers. A healthy and well-rested worker was an official objective. The former leader of the Soviet Union, Josef Stalin, included the “right to rest” in the 1936 constitution. From the on, all Soviet workers would obtain two weeks of holiday to rest and recuperate to return reinvigorated to continue their work. The interesting point was that this holiday was supposed to focus on both improving the physical health, but also on pursuing interests and knowledge of the Soviet workers. Therefore, hundreds of health holiday complexes (“sanatoriums”) were constructed over the decades. They were considered one of the highlights of the Soviet health system and an integral component of workers’ lives.

Jeti Oguz is an excellent example of this phenomenon. Constructed in 1937 in a stunning mountain setting, the sanatorium is one of the few remaining ones still in operation today. Yes, it is pretty drab and unmodernized but offers a peak into an era long gone, while doing something good to your body. In other words, imagine going to a spa, which has not been modernized for years. On the other hand, this will be definitely the cheapest spa which you have been to, or will go to in the future. Guaranteed. In 2022 most treatments were KGS 150-200 ($1.90 – $2.50). An excellent professional 60-minute massage for KGS 600-1,000 ($7-12). Try that in New York, London or Dubai.

When to go to Jeti Oguz Kurort?

Given the 3,000m elevation and the corresponding temperature drop, the peak tourist season is June-August. This is when the temperatures will hover around 25C during the day and 10-15C at night. The winter is long and cold with the Jeti Oguz sanatorium closing down in December-March.

How to get there?

Part of the charm is that there are not many people around. The price to pay for that is that it takes a long time to get there. After the pandemic few trekker groups visit as part of the longer Kyrgyzstan tours, so you will enjoy the mountain tranquility. Jeti Oguz is well known in Kyrgyzstan and there are some existing transport connections, so you do not have to go in an expensive (shared) taxi all the way.

Jeti Oguz vs Jeti Oguz Kurort

A bit confusingly, Jeti Oguz consists of two separate locations. The first one is the village itself (“Jeti Oguz”). However, you want to go the second location, Jeti Oguz Kurort or the Soviet-era wellness center or spa (“sanatorium” or “kurort”). The entrance to the hikes is at the end of the main road to Jeti Oguz Kurort.

The sanatorium is located 15 kms away from the village. Please be clear which Jeti Oguz destination you want to go to when talking with the marshrutka or taxi drivers.

How to get from Karakol to Jeti Oguz Kurort?

From Karakol’s bazaar bus station you might take marshrutka #355 to Jeti Oguz village. In spite of the sign saying “KURORT” (“КУРОРТ” in Russian), marshrutkas might not be going to Kurort (Sanatorium). Its final stop is the village, as there are not enough passengers willing to go to the kurort.

So the best choice is to go the village and then hire a taxi (KGS 200 / $2.50 for the entire car). Alternatively, you can try to hitchhike (certainly doable but waiting time will be longer after the morning rush to the village). A single seat in the Karakol-Jeti Oguz village was KGS40 ($0.50) and took 30 mins. The #355 marshrutka was leaving on the set hour at full hours (or earlier if all seats taken). Again, the price list in the minibus includes the kurort at KGS 100 ($1.25) but the marshrutka is unfortunately not going that far.

On the way back, there is a single marshrutka from the sanatorium to Bishkek per day leaving at 7:00am from the street next to the sanatorium. You will not miss it as there will be no other minibuses there.

Where to stay?

Kurort is a sleepy village with a few small shops, restaurants located in yurts and homestays. The accommodations options are the private homestays along the stream.

When coming to the Kurort you will see a few houses on the right hand side (there will also be four shops on the left hand side). All those houses offer rooms or beds. The standard is largely the same at KGS400-500 ($5-6.25) per person per night. Expect some warm water and unstable wifi, if any. Usually no breakfast. The sound of the stream flowing by is nice and soothing at night.

How to get treatments at the sanatorium?

Signing up for the treatments at the Jeti Oguz Kurort consists of several steps below. If you speak some Russian, it will be easier, but perfectly doable without it as well.

First of all, good news. As a foreign tourist you will be appreciated that you came all the way and want to try the sanatorium treatments. The sanatorium staff is rightfully proud of their skills and treatments, and will want to demonstrate their best to you. There have already been many guests from all over the world. They have all managed to sign up, communicate and have a good time when you read the earlier reviews. You will and you will have a good time.

(1) Go to the biggest building

Arrive at the main sanatorium building and enter the main hall with the registration area.

(2) Go to the registration area

There will be two registration glass-wall offices immediately to your slight left. Go to the right one with the administrator there. This gentleman speaks English, is very nice and will help you with the overall process. He will explain the Jeti Oguz sanatorium and the available treatments plus accommodation.

(3) Book your treatments

The first step to book your treatments will be to see a doctor. The friendly administrator, who speaks fluent English, will take you to the chief doctor (“glavniy vratch”). His office is located on the second floor (US counting) or first floor (European counting).

He will ask you about your ailments (if any) and check you up (pulse, lungs, etc.). He will then propose a course of treatments and you will have an opportunity to discuss and adjust them if necessary.

There are many treatments which largely might be grouped into five groups. (a) Water-based (radon baths or pool, which is Jeti Oguz’s specialty and reason for fame). (b) Mechanical (e.g., warming wax for your joints or muscles – helpful and divine). (c) Electrical (applying low level current to the joints or muscles, not as scary as it sounds and helpful in my case). (d) Massage (an all-time favorite for everybody) and (e) gynecological.

I tried warm wax (“parapheen”), current (“gryaz”) and all-body massage (“massage”). After my ankle injury in the mountains they did help a lot. Also, after some hikes who does not like to lie down on a soft bed with clean sheets and be pampered?

You will receive your medical record indicating the treatments per day. You will then proceed to the cash teller on the same floor immediately to your right and pay for your treatments. I paid cash and did not try paying by a credit card. The 2022 list of available procedures with the corresponding prices is attached.

jeti oguz sanatorium prices
Jeti Oguz sanatorium price list.

(4) Pay for the treatments at the registration

You will return to the administrator below who will then describe the location of your treatments and answer any questions.

(5) Get your treatments

Most people obtain them in the morning, though you might get them in the afternoon as well. In my case the wax and current treatments were on the second floor (US counting) and the massage on the first floor next to the registration office. All staff was exceedingly kind and helpful running an efficient operation. Disregarding the slightly dilapidated building, the treatments were professional and helped my ankle.

What to do next?

After your treatment, go for some easy hikes in the area: Jeti Oguz.

If you are traveling to Uzbekistan, Uzbekistan – Kyrgyzstan border at Dostyk describes this straightforward border.

When going to Kazakhstan, How to cross the Kyrgyzstan – Kazakhstan border at Korday will help.

The overall Kyrgyzstan guide is here: Kyrgyzstan.

Jeti Oguz

Why visit?

Jeti Oguz is one of the magnificent mountain locations in Kyrgyzstan. There are Western trekkers and many local families, even from Bishkek, coming to visit. Miles of easy hikes, stunning scenery, friendly people, many yurts to stay in and even an opportunity to get a massage in a Soviet-era spa after your hikes.

When to go?

Given the 3,000m elevation and the corresponding temperature drop, the peak tourist season is June-August. This is when the temperatures will hover around 25C during the day and 10-15C at night. The winter is long and cold with the local Soviet-era wellness center and spa closing down in December-March timeframe.

How to get there?

Part of the charm is that there are not many people around. The price to pay for that is that it takes a long time to get there. After the pandemic few trekker groups visit as part of the longer Kyrgyzstan tours, so you will enjoy the mountain tranquility. Jeti Oguz is well known in Kyrgyzstan and there are some existing transport connections, so you do not have to go in an expensive (shared) taxi all the way.

Jeti Oguz vs Jeti Oguz Kurort

A bit confusingly, Jeti Oguz consists of two separate locations. The first one is the village itself (“Jeti Oguz”). However, you want to go the second location, Jeti Oguz Kurort or the Soviet-era wellness center or spa (“sanatorium” or “kurort”). The entrance to the hikes is at the end of the main road to Jeti Oguz Kurort.

The sanatorium is located 15 kms away from the village. Please be clear which Jeti Oguz destination you want to go to when talking with the marshrutka or taxi drivers.

How to get from Karakol to Jeti Oguz Kurort?

From Karakol’s bazaar bus station you might take marshrutka #355 to Jeti Oguz village. In spite of the sign saying “KURORT” (“КУРОРТ”), marshrutkas might not be going to Kurort (Sanatorium). Its final stop is the village, as there are not enough passengers willing to go to the kurort.

So the best choice is to go the village and then hire a taxi (KGS 200 / $2.50 for the entire car). Alternatively, you can try hitchhike (certainly doable but waiting time will be longer after the morning rush to the village). A single seat in the Karakol-Jeti Oguz village was KGS40 ($0.50) and took 30 mins. The #355 marshrutka was leaving on the set hour at full hours (or earlier if all seats taken). Again, the price list in the minibus includes the kurort at KGS 100 ($1.25) but the marshrutka is unfortunately not going that far.

On the way back, there is a single marshrutka from the sanatorium to Bishkek per day leaving at 7:00am from the street next to the sanatorium. You will not miss it as there will be no other minibuses there.

Where to stay?

Kurort is a sleepy village concentrated on some visitors with a few small shops, restaurants located in yurts and homestays. The accommodations options are the private homestays along the stream. When coming to the Kurort you will see a few houses on the right hand side (there will also be four shops on the left hand side). All those houses offer rooms or beds. The standard is largely the same at KGS400-500 ($5-6.25) per person per night. Expect some warm water and unstable wifi, if any. The sound of the stream flowing by is nice and soothing at night.

What to do there?

In kurort you have largely two choices: (1) go to the mountains or (2) go to the sanatorium for a massage or another treatment (radon bath?) afterwards.

The mountains are picturesque with easy hikes. There are also some foreign tourist group tours, which are overnighting in tents or the local yurts. Jeti Oguz seems to be a good stop for them on the way to (or from) the south of Kyrgyzstan. No need to bring a tent and a sleeping bag if you do not want to.

(1) Valley of Flowers (Kok Jayik)

This is an easy 6km (90-120mins) hike along a stream and a dirt road. The views are nice along the stream and then you enter the valley of flowers with a vast panorama. You can overnight in a yurt here and can also get the local meals. You can continue further with miles of hikes ahead.

(2) Seven Bulls

Located immediately next to the main road and the famous Jeti Oguz view. You can climb the hill on the other side of the road for a nice view during sunrise or sunset.

(3) Broken Heart

1 minute down the road after the Seven Bulls there is the picturesque Broken Heart stone formation. It looks especially nice during sunset as the colors are changing rapidly. Pretty interesting to see how regular trees manage to cling (and thrive) to the bare stone of Broken Heart.

What to do next

After your hikes and yurt or tent sleeping, you can get an excellent massage at the Jeti Oguz Sanatorium for $7, the local Soviet-era wellness center and spa.

If you are traveling to Uzbekistan, Uzbekistan – Kyrgyzstan border at Dostyk describes this straightforward border.

When going to Kazakhstan, How to cross the Kyrgyzstan – Kazakhstan border at Korday will help.

The overall Kyrgyzstan summary is here: Kyrgyzstan.

Uzbekistan – Kyrgyzstan border at Dostyk

This article describes the Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border crossing at Dostyk connecting Andijan and Osh. It includes the current requirements for both countries in terms of the Covid-19 vaccinations and the PCR or antigen tests.

It has the following sections:

Summary

In summary, as of November 2022 the Dostyk border crossing was straightforward with short queues, friendly officers and NO special Covid-19 requirements.

We did not have to show our vaccination certificates (paper or electronic) or the latest test results (PCR or antigen) at either border.

The public transportation (marshrutkas) was available and efficient on both sides of the border.

You do NOT have to take any taxis (private or shared) on either side of the border.

In addition to being cheaper, this saves all the hassle of negotiating with the drivers as the initial prices will be exorbitantly high.

Detour as Tajikistan-Kyrgyzstan border closed

In September 2022 the Tajikistan-Kyrgyzstan border was closed with no firm date for reopening. If traveling from Tajikistan to Kyrgyzstan, this requires a loop over Uzbekistan. If your destination is Osh and the southern mountains in Kyrgyzstan, the following loop is a good choice based on my experience:

(1) Penjakent – Samarkand (Kaftarxona): described in How to cross the Uzbekistan – Tajikistan border, duration: 2 hours, $1.50

(2) Samarkand – Tashkent: train, duration: 2-4 hours depending on the train (fast Afrosyob 2 hours, old-fashioned Sharq 4 hours), $10

(3) Overnight in Samarkand

(4) Tashkent – Andijan: train, duration: 6 hours (platzkart or kupe lying beds highly recommended), $10

(5) Andijan – Dostyk (Uzbekistan-Tajikistan border): bus, duration: 1 hour, $0.50 (described in detail below)

(6) Dostyk – Osh: marshrutka or shared taxi: 15-30 minutes, $0.20 (marshrutka) (described in detail below)

It is a loop which costs 2 days but it is always nice to look again at the Registan illuminated at night. In addition, you will probably meet some friendly Uzbeks, have great conversations, and be offered tea and local treats. Try that in New York or Paris.

Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border crossing at Dostyk

The core Uzbekistan – Kyrgyzstan border crossing is relatively uncomplicated with efficient passport control on both sides.

Andijan (Uzbekistan)– Dostyk (border)

Summary: bus, 1 hour, $0.50

If arriving on the train from Tashkent, the bus station is 5 minutes walking distance from the train station. When exiting the train station, immediately turn right and walk along busy road.

At the traffic lights cross the road, walk past the furniture shops, and the entrance to the bus station will be on your left (past the furniture shops).

A bus to Dostyk is departing from the second bay on the left hand side of the station. If in doubt ask for Dostyk and you will be shown the way.

This time it will not be a (cramped) marshrutka but a (cramped) middle-size bus (Isuzu in my case). It is departing every 20-30 minutes. Arrive early if you have a bag, it might be tight later.

If you prefer a shared taxi, the always attentive taxi drivers on the right-hand side of the station will spot you before you see them and offer the initial quote of UZS 100,000 ($10). As usually, this is only the opening number, which is exceedingly high.

Dostyk: Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border crossing

In Dostyk there will be many local Uzbek and Kyrgyz people crossing the border. However, the crossing was efficient in my case. There were several passport control booths open and the whole process took 10 minutes. You will then walk to the Kyrgyz passport control where the process was similarly efficient and completed in 10 minutes.

Afterwards you will see the final gate to Kyrgyzstan. This will probably be a highlight of the day again, as all the friendly taxi drivers and their friends will immediately descend on you once you cross the gate.

Take a deep breath, disregard all the chaos and enter the lions’ den.

Act as a seasoned Central Asian traveller, who made countless border crossings before. If you know a few words in Russian, say them now. Even if you are here for the first time, people will assume you know what you are doing. You will immediately get some respect, which will be helpful in any negotiation.

If you want to negotiate a (shared) taxi, meet some other tourists now as negotiating together will strengthen your position. Secondly, it will make the process less intense. Nothing better than to say “But I have to talk to my friends if they want to pay this price”.

Dostyk (border) – Osh (Kyrgyzstan)

Summary: marshrutka or shared taxi, 15-30 minutes, $0.20 (marshrutka)

Again, always easier if you exit as a group, even if you met the other tourist(s) 60 seconds earlier. Act in control, this is just another one of countless border crossings that you have done recently.

When you cross the gate, the fun starts at once. 10 taxi drivers will immediately approach you and start yelling at you. “Where are you going?”. “Quick, quick, I am leaving now”. “$10”. “$20”.

Disregard all this friendly noise. You have a choice to take either a (shared) taxi or a marshrutka. Taxi drivers will express their strong opinions that there are no marshrutkas going to Osh (“there were but a long time ago”, “the last one has just left”, “not today”).

Marshrutka

If deciding for a marshrutka, ignore all this helpful chatter and head for the marshrutka stop 30 seconds walking distance away. They are alive and well, and waiting for you. Many tourists and locals will be taking them with you.

Marshrutkas 116, 136, 137 and 138 have their initial stop in the parking lot next to the taxis on the right-hand side. You will see many of them waiting. Drivers will point you to the next one departing.

Marshrutkas will be packed with many local passengers getting on. If you have a lot of luggage, please move to the back or consider a shared taxi.

According to the marshrutka etiquette, it is NOT ok to place your backpack on the empty seat next to you if there are other (elderly) passengers standing. It is also a nice gesture to give the seat to an older person.

(Shared) taxi

If deciding for a (shared) taxi, the usual delightful negotiation process would start. Depending on the number of passengers already waiting, the price should be no higher than KGS 300 ($3.50).

It is absolutely fine to negotiate with several drivers at the same time. There are many drivers, the competition is fierce, and they want your fare. Negotiate firm and you will depart soon for a good price.

It also seems that there are different groups of drivers. The most aggressive and expensive ones speaking best English will approach first. If you stand firm and refuse those excessive quotes, another group will approach with lower prices. Not sure why but it usually works this way.

Finally, it is always a good question to ask how many other passengers are already departing with this particular driver. It is also absolutely fine to look into his car to see that. If there are already 2-3 other guests with their luggage already in the trunk and you would be the last one to go, this guarantees two things.

Firstly, the taxi driver will be interested in getting you in quickly and being more flexible on price. Secondly, if agreed, you will be departing within 60 seconds.

Overall, the initial taxi quotes will hover around KGS 800 ($10). Again, excessive.

Osh

Osh is pretty spread out so please check your map first where you are going. If on a marshrutka, you will have to know approximately where to get off.

Either check your GPS map or ask a local passenger. There will be always somebody who speaks (some) English and everybody will be willing to help this lost tourist soul.

Covid-19 Vaccination Certificates

As of November 2022 the Covid-19 vaccination certificates (paper or electronic) were NOT required by the Uzbekistan border authorities.

As of November 2022 the Covid-19 vaccination certificates (paper or electronic) were NOT required by the Kyrgyzstan border authorities.

Covid-19 Tests

As of November 2022 the Covid-19 tests (PCR or antigen) were NOT required by the Uzbekistan border authorities.

As of November 2022 the Covid-19 tests (PCR or antigen) were NOT required by the Kyrgyzstan border authorities.

The Covid entry requirements have been changing frequently. You might want to check the most recent information:

https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/kyrgyzstan/entry-requirements

Where to go next

The overall Kyrgyzstan travel guide is here: Kyrgyzstan.

For the Jeti Oguz mountains: Jeti Oguz.

If you are going to the Jeti Oguz resort (kurort / sanatorium): Jeti Oguz Sanatorium.

The overall Uzbekistan travel guide is here: Uzbekistan with Samarkand and Bukhara.

Other Central Asia border crossings:

How to cross the Uzbekistan – Tajikistan border

How to cross the Kyrgyzstan – Kazakhstan border at Korday

Avoid crowds in other destinations

Beyond this Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border at Dostyk information, you are interested in Kyrgyzstan and fewer crowds. My list of favorite places without the Paris or Florence crowds: Avoid Crowds When Travelling – Top 21 Tips (2022).

Kyrgyzstan

This is a Kyrgyzstan travel guide based on my trip in 2022. I am updating it but please double check at least those two items before your departure.

Firstly, the Covid-19 requirements. As of now, you do not have to show your vaccinations or tests.

Secondly, the status of the Kyrgyzstan-Tajikistan border. Due to military frictions, the border has been closed and there is currently NO fixed date when it might reopen. As one local hotel owner said “Not in 2022, maybe in 2023”.

This Kyrgyzstan travel guide has the following sections:

Why Visit

Magnificent mountains, lakes, and thousands of miles of hiking tracks with countless yurts, cows and sheep.

In addition, Kyrgyzstan has some of the friendliest people in Central Asia and their hospitality is legendary.

After your hikes you can descend to the flat land and enjoy a hot shower, a comfortable bed and excellent bread, vegetables and fruits. Finally, you will meet and swap stories with fascinating like-minded travelers from around the world.

If you end up in Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, before your flight, you will talk to many other hikers recuperating under the luxury of a hot shower as well.

Kyrgyzstan in Numbers

Population: 7 million

Capital: Bishkek

Language: Kyrgyz and Russian (English widely spoken in tourist areas)

Currency: Kyrgyzstan som (KGS)

Exchange rate (September 2022): USD 1 = KGS 81, EUR 1 = 81, GBP 1 = 94

Electricity: standard European 220V, standard European plugs

Covid-19 Restrictions

As of November 2022, none.

No testing required prior to departure or after arrival, no vaccination certificates have to be presented, no quarantine.

Visas

Most countries are exempt or get a free 2-month visa on arrival.

Important. As of November 2022 the Kyrgyzstan-Tajikistan border remains closed. There is no official date for reopening. Local sources are saying “not in 2022, maybe in first half of 2023”.

The Uzbekistan – Kyrgyzstan border at Dostyk is currently open.

Similar to the Kyrgyzstan-Kazakhstan border (How to cross the Kyrgyzstan – Kazakhstan border at Korday).

When to Visit

June to September is best. The climate is continental with hot scorching summers (30C+ / 105F+) and freezing winters.

As always, the temperatures at a higher elevation are lower.

Second half of September will be cold at night in the mountains and you might see some snow.

Safety

Overall, a safe country.

No uncomfortable encounters anywhere.

No aggressive insects as in Indonesia or Colombia.

Top 5 Things in Kyrgyzstan Travel Guide

(1) Trekking around Karakol in Tien Shan

Kyrgyzstan Uzbekistan

(2) Visit Alay mountains in south Kyrgyzstan (Sary Mogul)

(3) Sleep at least one night in a yurt, the traditional nomadic Kyrgyz tradition

(4) Go for easy hikes and a well-deserved excellent massage in Jeti Oguz afterwards

Jeti Oguz
Jeti Oguz rocks.

(5) Hang out in Bishkek with fellow hikers after descending from the mountains

Jeti Oguz sanatorium
Play chess after your post-hike massage at the Jeti Oguz resort (Jeti Oguz Sanatorium).

Transportation

Excellent: minibuses (marshrutkas) and (shared) taxis will get you even to the smallest village. They will take time, though.

Osh-Bishkek

If you are in Osh and have to go to Bishkek, a marshrutka or a taxi will take 9-12 hours. A good alternative is to fly with TezJet, a local Kyrgyz airline.

No, never heard of them before either. However, the flight was on time and with no issues. On my flight it was a Bombardier regional jet. Clearly older with faded displays and worn out seats, but it did its job. It takes 1 hour and saves this 12 hour ride in a cramped seat.

Osh-Bishkek or Osh-Issyk-kul internal flight are around $50 if you buy a few days before departure. Book ahead in the Kyrgyz high season, as many locals are travelling.

You can buy the ticket in many tourist offices in Osh or on thee TezJet’s website. The website can be set into English, did not crash on me and accepted my credit card. You will receive a pdf by email.

Karakol- Bishkek

If you are going from Karakol to Bishkek (or the other way round), you have two choices. You will going around the Issyk-kul lake either on the northern or southern route.

Caution. In 2022 the southern road was being renovated. It definitely needs it so driving there will be better in the future. However, in 2022 it was really bad. Traffic jams, one-way traffic, potholes.

If the road renovation still ongoing when you are there, please use the northern road. You can always ask a marshrutka or taxi driver which way he is going. Or look at the marshrutka panel with interim places.

Accommodation

Widely available from budget to mid-range to luxury accommodations. Tourism is an important revenue source for the Kyrgyz, especially in the remote locations. There will be many choices and competition is high.

Correspondingly, a well-established base of hostels and small hotels for foreign hikers. Comfortable, clean, safe and with great vibe.

In smaller locations there are always homestays with friendly hosts and home-made food.

Internet

Wifi widely available in hotels and hostels, speeds can vary. Working (including Zoom, etc.) is usually possible in most accommodations.

Free, I have not been to a single location charging for connectivity.

Wifi might be available in some public places (e.g., airports) but might require a text confirmation with a code sent to your phone. Caution: Some venues accept only a local Kyrgyz phone number.

Getting a local SIM is straighforward, Megacom is currently offering the broadest coverage. Packages vary across providers, shop around for the current best offer.

Costs

An inexpensive destination to visit.

A typical hostel or homestay costs around $7-10 with small hotels $10-15.

A meal will be $1-2 in local restaurants with $2-5 in restaurants.

A city minibus (marshrutka) are $0.15-0.50 with longer distances in single dollars. Depending on your negotiation skills, a 12-hour Osh-Bishkek shared taxi is around $10-12.

Overall Tips

(1) Bring cash. USD and EUR have the best exchange rates. Many bank and private exchange offices, no huge exchange rate differences among them (exception: airports). The process is straightforward. Go to cash teller, who will change the money on the spot. No special tourist forms to fill. Cash is predominantly used with credit cards more popular at the high-end hotels.

(2) Bring a healthy dose of patience. Kyrgyzstan is an unhurried location. You will wait for your marshrutka to fill in. Then you will wait for it to depart as the driver might have to buy something in the local market beforehand. You will wait for your lunch or dinner at restaurants.

Kyrgyzstan Overall Rating

Highly recommended.

Excellent mountains, friendly people, inexpensive.

The Kyrgyz tourism is slowly rebuilding after the Covid-19 pandemic – go before the waves of foreign tourists descend.

Beyond this summary Kyrgyzstan travel guide, below are all posts about this country.

ALL POSTS ABOUT KYRGYZSTAN

Transportation

Kyrgyzstan Kazakhstan Korday border crossing
How to cross the Kyrgyzstan – Kazakhstan border at Korday
Kyrgyzstan Uzbekistan
Uzbekistan – Kyrgyzstan border at Dostyk

Destinations

Jeti Oguz
Jeti Oguz
Jeti Oguz sanatorium
Jeti Oguz Sanatorium

Avoid Crowds When Travelling

Tips how to avoid the crowds and which countries, cities and sites to visit. Less important in Kyrgyzstan given relatively few tourists, but helpful in Asia, Europe, and South and Central America:

Avoid Crowds When Travelling – Top 21 Tips (2022)

How to cross the Kyrgyzstan – Kazakhstan border at Korday

This describes how to cross the Kyrgyzstan – Kazakhstan border at Korday using (shared) taxis, marshruthkas or buses.

This crossing is relatively uncomplicated with efficient passport control on both sides. Korday is the most popular crossing to Almaty in Kazakhstan. A path well traveled by tourists and locals with convenient infrastructure (unlike the Kyrgyzstan-Kazakhstan Kardara-Kegen crossing with friendly passport control guards but little transport).

I did this crossing in three legs: Bishkek-Korday marshrutka, border control and shared taxi Korday-Almaty.

However, in October 2022 there were people who took the bus directly from Almaty to Bishkek (TZS 2500, 5 hours).

The Bishkek-Almaty bus MIGHT be leaving for 500 som from the Western Bus Station as per the photo above (check the current departures).

Based on the schedule in the photo at the top of the page (row 8), the Bishkek-Almaty has direct DAILY departures at 08:00, 12:00, 16:00 and 22:00 operated by the “Nurdan Tour” company.

Warning: I did NOT take this bus or buy the ticket. Please verify the information at your accommodation or the bus station.

This article has the following sections:

  • (1) Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan) – Korday (border crossing)
  • (2) Kyrgyzstan-Kazakhstan border
  • (3) Korday – Almaty (Kazakhstan)
  • (4) Other border crossings in Central Asia

(1) Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan) – Korday (border crossing)

From central Bishkek there are currently the following options to reach the Korday border crossing:

(a) Taxi

From central Bishkek to the border, the taxi is approximately $8-10 depending on your negotiating skills.

(b) Marshrutka

I did the crossing the old-fashioned way: Bishkek-Korday marshrutka and then Korday-Almaty (shared) taxi.

Firstly, please do not make a similar mistake as I did. I had read earlier reports that there are marshrutkas to Korday from the Western Bus Station (“Zapadniy Avtovakzal”) or the Eastern Bus Station (“Vostochniy Avovakzal”). Also some online maps quoted that there is a marshrutka from the Eastern Bus Station to Korday.

I have visited both and, to slightly increased andrenaline levels, unfortunately I learned that there are no marshrutkas to Korday from either station.

There are two marshrutkas from central Almaty to Korday: #285 and #333.

However, they are not departing from either the Western or the Eastern Bus Station, but are stopping on the intersection of the main road to Almaty (Alma-Atinskaya / Kurmanjan Datka Street) and Jibek Jolu Street.

If you make a similar mistake to me and get to the Eastern Bus Station, it is a 5 minute walk to this intersection. They will both arrive at the same Korday end station 1 minute from the border station, so either #285 or #333 is fine.

They are also leaving from central Bishkek near TsUM/GUM, passing on Chuy Avenue to the border through the Alamedin bazar.

The one-way fare was KGS 35 ($0.45) in August 2022 and took 30 minutes. Exit at the end station just in front of the border buildings. If you have any remaining Kyrgyz currency, there is an exchange booth in front of the bus stop.

(c) Scheduled bus

The bus schedule in the Western Bus Station (“Zapadniy Avtovakzal”) is listing a bus from Bishkek directly to Almaty departing daily at 08:00, 12:00, 16:00 and 22:00 for KGS 500 ($6.25).

Please see the photo above (Almaty item 8). However, I have not been on this bus or have not tried to purchase a ticket. Other people did successfully take it (5 hours).

(d) Flight

There are scheduled flights for approximately $50-80.

(e) Train

Unfortunately, there is currently no train connection.

(2) Kyrgyzstan-Kazakhstan border

How to cross the Kyrgyzstan Kazakhstan border at Korday?

In summary, crossing is efficient and pleasantly largely uneventful.

Kyrgyzstan border control

On the Kyrgyzstan side ignore and walk past all the cars (including some drivers who will offer to take you through the border in their vehicle). Enter the gated walkway and you will arrive in a small hall with several passport control booths.

Your photo will be taken and, if you have not overstayed your stay, your passport will be stamped and you will exit Kyrgyzstan. The whole process took approximately 10 minutes.

Kazakhstan border control

The Kazakh side is similarly efficient and uneventful. A photo taken, a stamp, your bag scanned and you will exit the Kazakh border building through a gate.

Unlike the more lively borders (Uzbekistan Samarkand – Tajikstan Penjakent!), there will be only a few drivers offering a ride to Almaty without high-pressure tactics of 50 animated drivers. Feels almost like a disappointment but please do not let your guard down.

Act in control and unrushed. You are a seasoned Central Asia traveller and have made countless border crossings. This is just another one with negotiating with the taxi drivers, disregarding their helpful advice (“everybody has already left, I am the last one going to Almaty”) and speaking a few words in Russian you might know. If you do, say them now. Everybody will then assume that you know what you are doing, and you will get to Almaty faster and for a (much) lower price.

Those Kazakh drivers will negotiate tough and start with high prices. Anything more than KZT 5000 (Kazakh Tenge) ($10.50) is too much for a single seat in a shared taxi. Please negotiate a reasonable price, this will also help the fellow tourists in their negotiations in the future.

Similar to other border crossings in Central Asia, the first drivers will (a) speak best English and (b) offer the highest prices. Once you politely but firmly decline those, other guys (have not seen any women drivers there) will mention lower and more reasonable fares.

No Covid-19 certificates or tests were requested on either side.

However, the Covid entry requirements have been changing frequently. For the latest information, please check:

https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/kyrgyzstan/entry-requirements

(3) Korday – Almaty (Kazakhstan)

Once you negotiated your price, you will walk with the driver to the parking lot on the right where the car will be probably parked. The ride to Almaty is 215 kms (134 miles) and will take 2.5 hours.

If there are traffic jams in Almaty especially on the main entry road (as they always were on my trips), it might take another 30 minutes. If you are planning to drive straight to the Almaty airport, please add another hour to be on the safe side.

A word of caution. When negotiating with the Kazakh driver at the Korday border, please negotiate the price and the EXACT location of your drop off. If the driver agrees to the price but not to your location, walk away. You will probably be dropped off miles from your target destination.

Other people took the marshrutka from Korday to Altyn Orda and then from Altyn Orda to Almaty. The price from Altyn Orda to Korday is TZS 2500.

(4) Other border crossings in Central Asia

Beyond this article how to cross the Kyrgyzstan Kazakhstan border at Korday, other borders in the neighborhood:

When travelling to Kyrgyzstan: Uzbekistan – Kyrgyzstan border at Dostyk.

If you are going to the Fann mountains and the Samarkand-Penjakent border: How to cross the Uzbekistan – Tajikistan border

For the country guides: Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan.