Category: Uzbekistan

How to buy Uzbekistan train ticket

This November 2022 guide to how to buy the Uzbekistan train ticket has the following sections:

Best trains in Central Asia

Congratulations, you have decided to ride on the best trains in Central Asia. Uzbekistan has invested heavily in the new trains and renovated the tracks. The current journeys are comfortable, clean, and with speeds up to 250 km/h. Much more comfortable and faster than buses, (shared) taxis or marshrutkas. They are the top choice unless there is a direct flight connection (e.g., Urgench for Khiva).

Trains leave and depart from stations located in central locations. The stations are excellent. They are clean with clearly-displayed schedules. Toilets are clean and free. Staff is helpful. Security is tight. Although, no wifi in the trains, but let’s not be too fastidious.

Which train and carriage

When purchasing a ticket, there are options regarding (a) the train type and (b) class of travel.

(a) Train type

Broadly speaking, the UR trains may be divided into the modern Afrosiyob and the old Sharq / “Passenger” carriages. The Afrosyob is using the European-manufactured Talgo. It is modern with supreme air-conditioning (not to be underestimated if traveling on a Sharq in the summer in Uzbekistan). In economy and business, they have an open-carriage design with no individual compartments.

Sharq is using the older (Soviet era?) technology with weak or no air-conditioning and is considerably slower. Whereas an Afrosiyob from Tashkent to Samarkand takes 2 hours, a Sharq needs 3 and a slower “passenger” train even 4.

(b) Class of travel

There are a few classes of travel to choose from. This depends on the distance and the comfort level you prefer. You can purchase a regular seat in:

(a) economy (2+2 seating arrangement on Afrosiyob) or business (2+1 on Afrosiyob trains),

(b) “platzkartnyi” (lying beds in an open carriage with no individual compartments),

(c) coupe (or couchette, individual compartments with 4 beds),

(d) Lux (individual compartments with 2 beds) or Grand (individual compartments with 2 beds, and private shower and toilet).

On longer distances lying bed options are popular and might be sold out early, especially in September.

Interestingly, the Afrosiyob trains are not much more expensive than the slower Sharq or Passenger trains.

Uzbekistan train tickets selling out quickly

Accordingly, the Afrosiyob trains are selling out quickly in the second half of August and September with the declining temperatures and increasing tourist numbers. It is also not uncommon not to see ANY tickets available on any train (Afrosyob, Sharq or Passenger) in this timeframe within the next week.

I have not read any written confirmation, but there seems to exist a late release of tickets (even on Afrosiyob) a day earlier. I have seen suddenly 20-40 Afrosiyob economy tickets becoming available the day before. In short, even if there are no train tickets available, please do not despair and don’t book a cramped bus or shared taxi yet. There might well be a last-minute release for your train. Secondly, there is always time to go to the marshrutka station or look for an enthusiastic taxi driver, and go through the usual delightful negotiation process.

Train hospitality

The final thought on the class of travel. During longer rides in “platzkartnyi”, coupe (“kupe”), Lux or Grand, you will probably meet your fellow passengers. Some of them in a lot of detail. Or, probably more precisely, your fellow passengers will learn a lot about you. Your profession, family, marital status, your trip in Uzbekistan (and any other Central Asian countries), what you liked or disliked, etc. Sometimes it feels too much and some of those questions would not be asked back at home. However, it seems this is a genuine interest as it is not common to have a chance to talk with a foreigner for a few hours.

In other words, hours of conversations. There will always be someone with (some) English, who will want to talk to you with several others listening to the translation. You will be a unique specie, especially on a slower Sharq or Passenger train.

As part of the Central Asian hospitality, you will probably be drinking dozens cups of tea, munching on excellent local snacks, and nodding understandably to an older grandmother speaking to you directly in Uzbek.

In other words, traveling by train is a cultural experience and a unique way to meet non-tourists. By the time you disembark, you will be well-fed and well-informed where to go / eat / sleep in excruciating detail.

And if you are lucky, you might even be invited home to tea. This always seems to end with a full-blown meal deliciously cooked at home.

How to buy a Uzbekistan train ticket?

You can purchase a ticket either at the station office (“КАССА”), on the UR website or on the UR app. The app is excellent. It has clearly defined trains with available seats and corresponding prices per class per day. It did not crash for me once, accepts credit cards, and can be set to English.

Convert UR app to English first

A technical comment how to convert the UR app to English. It is well hidden and the default language is Russian.

Click on the “Others” tab (first on the right, “Eшё” in Russian).

Then click on settings (“Hactpoйки”).

Then language (“Язык”), and finally on “English”.

The alternative is to learn (or at least recognize) the Cyrylic letters, which will be also helpful in restaurants, shops and traveling.

The UR website is below. I found the app easier to use. Also, it stores your ticket offline there. You can show it to the conductor when boarding your train and do NOT have to print it out earlier.

https://railway.uz/en/

Arrive 30 minutes earlier

Arrive at the station at least 30 minutes earlier than your scheduled departure time. All passengers have to go through the security station and scan all bags and there may be a line. Secondly, trains starting at your destination are usually available for boarding at least 15 minutes earlier. All local passengers will board immediately when the train is available.

Where to go next?

After this introduction to how to buy a Uzbekistan train ticket, the articles below will help.

As you are taking a train in Uzbekistan, you will probably go to Samarkand and Bukhara.

If you will be traveling to Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan – Kyrgyzstan border at Dostyk will help.

When going to Tajikistan, How to cross the Uzbekistan – Tajikistan border describes the Samarkand-Penjakent border crossing.

Uzbekistan – Kyrgyzstan border at Dostyk

This article describes the Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border crossing at Dostyk connecting Andijan and Osh. It includes the current requirements for both countries in terms of the Covid-19 vaccinations and the PCR or antigen tests.

It has the following sections:

Summary

In summary, as of November 2022 the Dostyk border crossing was straightforward with short queues, friendly officers and NO special Covid-19 requirements.

We did not have to show our vaccination certificates (paper or electronic) or the latest test results (PCR or antigen) at either border.

The public transportation (marshrutkas) was available and efficient on both sides of the border.

You do NOT have to take any taxis (private or shared) on either side of the border.

In addition to being cheaper, this saves all the hassle of negotiating with the drivers as the initial prices will be exorbitantly high.

Detour as Tajikistan-Kyrgyzstan border closed

In September 2022 the Tajikistan-Kyrgyzstan border was closed with no firm date for reopening. If traveling from Tajikistan to Kyrgyzstan, this requires a loop over Uzbekistan. If your destination is Osh and the southern mountains in Kyrgyzstan, the following loop is a good choice based on my experience:

(1) Penjakent – Samarkand (Kaftarxona): described in How to cross the Uzbekistan – Tajikistan border, duration: 2 hours, $1.50

(2) Samarkand – Tashkent: train, duration: 2-4 hours depending on the train (fast Afrosyob 2 hours, old-fashioned Sharq 4 hours), $10

(3) Overnight in Samarkand

(4) Tashkent – Andijan: train, duration: 6 hours (platzkart or kupe lying beds highly recommended), $10

(5) Andijan – Dostyk (Uzbekistan-Tajikistan border): bus, duration: 1 hour, $0.50 (described in detail below)

(6) Dostyk – Osh: marshrutka or shared taxi: 15-30 minutes, $0.20 (marshrutka) (described in detail below)

It is a loop which costs 2 days but it is always nice to look again at the Registan illuminated at night. In addition, you will probably meet some friendly Uzbeks, have great conversations, and be offered tea and local treats. Try that in New York or Paris.

Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border crossing at Dostyk

The core Uzbekistan – Kyrgyzstan border crossing is relatively uncomplicated with efficient passport control on both sides.

Andijan (Uzbekistan)– Dostyk (border)

Summary: bus, 1 hour, $0.50

If arriving on the train from Tashkent, the bus station is 5 minutes walking distance from the train station. When exiting the train station, immediately turn right and walk along busy road.

At the traffic lights cross the road, walk past the furniture shops, and the entrance to the bus station will be on your left (past the furniture shops).

A bus to Dostyk is departing from the second bay on the left hand side of the station. If in doubt ask for Dostyk and you will be shown the way.

This time it will not be a (cramped) marshrutka but a (cramped) middle-size bus (Isuzu in my case). It is departing every 20-30 minutes. Arrive early if you have a bag, it might be tight later.

If you prefer a shared taxi, the always attentive taxi drivers on the right-hand side of the station will spot you before you see them and offer the initial quote of UZS 100,000 ($10). As usually, this is only the opening number, which is exceedingly high.

Dostyk: Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border crossing

In Dostyk there will be many local Uzbek and Kyrgyz people crossing the border. However, the crossing was efficient in my case. There were several passport control booths open and the whole process took 10 minutes. You will then walk to the Kyrgyz passport control where the process was similarly efficient and completed in 10 minutes.

Afterwards you will see the final gate to Kyrgyzstan. This will probably be a highlight of the day again, as all the friendly taxi drivers and their friends will immediately descend on you once you cross the gate.

Take a deep breath, disregard all the chaos and enter the lions’ den.

Act as a seasoned Central Asian traveller, who made countless border crossings before. If you know a few words in Russian, say them now. Even if you are here for the first time, people will assume you know what you are doing. You will immediately get some respect, which will be helpful in any negotiation.

If you want to negotiate a (shared) taxi, meet some other tourists now as negotiating together will strengthen your position. Secondly, it will make the process less intense. Nothing better than to say “But I have to talk to my friends if they want to pay this price”.

Dostyk (border) – Osh (Kyrgyzstan)

Summary: marshrutka or shared taxi, 15-30 minutes, $0.20 (marshrutka)

Again, always easier if you exit as a group, even if you met the other tourist(s) 60 seconds earlier. Act in control, this is just another one of countless border crossings that you have done recently.

When you cross the gate, the fun starts at once. 10 taxi drivers will immediately approach you and start yelling at you. “Where are you going?”. “Quick, quick, I am leaving now”. “$10”. “$20”.

Disregard all this friendly noise. You have a choice to take either a (shared) taxi or a marshrutka. Taxi drivers will express their strong opinions that there are no marshrutkas going to Osh (“there were but a long time ago”, “the last one has just left”, “not today”).

Marshrutka

If deciding for a marshrutka, ignore all this helpful chatter and head for the marshrutka stop 30 seconds walking distance away. They are alive and well, and waiting for you. Many tourists and locals will be taking them with you.

Marshrutkas 116, 136, 137 and 138 have their initial stop in the parking lot next to the taxis on the right-hand side. You will see many of them waiting. Drivers will point you to the next one departing.

Marshrutkas will be packed with many local passengers getting on. If you have a lot of luggage, please move to the back or consider a shared taxi.

According to the marshrutka etiquette, it is NOT ok to place your backpack on the empty seat next to you if there are other (elderly) passengers standing. It is also a nice gesture to give the seat to an older person.

(Shared) taxi

If deciding for a (shared) taxi, the usual delightful negotiation process would start. Depending on the number of passengers already waiting, the price should be no higher than KGS 300 ($3.50).

It is absolutely fine to negotiate with several drivers at the same time. There are many drivers, the competition is fierce, and they want your fare. Negotiate firm and you will depart soon for a good price.

It also seems that there are different groups of drivers. The most aggressive and expensive ones speaking best English will approach first. If you stand firm and refuse those excessive quotes, another group will approach with lower prices. Not sure why but it usually works this way.

Finally, it is always a good question to ask how many other passengers are already departing with this particular driver. It is also absolutely fine to look into his car to see that. If there are already 2-3 other guests with their luggage already in the trunk and you would be the last one to go, this guarantees two things.

Firstly, the taxi driver will be interested in getting you in quickly and being more flexible on price. Secondly, if agreed, you will be departing within 60 seconds.

Overall, the initial taxi quotes will hover around KGS 800 ($10). Again, excessive.

Osh

Osh is pretty spread out so please check your map first where you are going. If on a marshrutka, you will have to know approximately where to get off.

Either check your GPS map or ask a local passenger. There will be always somebody who speaks (some) English and everybody will be willing to help this lost tourist soul.

Covid-19 Vaccination Certificates

As of November 2022 the Covid-19 vaccination certificates (paper or electronic) were NOT required by the Uzbekistan border authorities.

As of November 2022 the Covid-19 vaccination certificates (paper or electronic) were NOT required by the Kyrgyzstan border authorities.

Covid-19 Tests

As of November 2022 the Covid-19 tests (PCR or antigen) were NOT required by the Uzbekistan border authorities.

As of November 2022 the Covid-19 tests (PCR or antigen) were NOT required by the Kyrgyzstan border authorities.

The Covid entry requirements have been changing frequently. You might want to check the most recent information:

https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/kyrgyzstan/entry-requirements

Where to go next

The overall Kyrgyzstan travel guide is here: Kyrgyzstan.

For the Jeti Oguz mountains: Jeti Oguz.

If you are going to the Jeti Oguz resort (kurort / sanatorium): Jeti Oguz Sanatorium.

The overall Uzbekistan travel guide is here: Uzbekistan with Samarkand and Bukhara.

Other Central Asia border crossings:

How to cross the Uzbekistan – Tajikistan border

How to cross the Kyrgyzstan – Kazakhstan border at Korday

Avoid crowds in other destinations

Beyond this Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border at Dostyk information, you are interested in Kyrgyzstan and fewer crowds. My list of favorite places without the Paris or Florence crowds: Avoid Crowds When Travelling – Top 21 Tips (2022).

How to cross the Uzbekistan – Tajikistan border

Summary

This describes the Samarkand-Penjakent Uzbekistan-Tajikistan border crossing. This is the quickest way from Samarkand’s impressive historical monuments to Tajikistan’s outstanding Fann mountains.

It has the following sections:

In summary, a convenient crossing in terms of:

(1) the transportation to the Samarkand-Uzbek border (45 minutes),

(2) passport controls on the Uzbekistan and Tajikistan sides (10 minutes),

(3) the transportation from the Tajikistan border to Penjakent (20 minutes).

The immigration formalities on both sides are straightforward and quick with nice border officers.

This Uzbekistan-Tajikistan border crossing is of the most efficient and nicest border crossings in Central Asia. Two hours door to door Samarkand to Penjakent, highly recommended.

(1) Samarkand: hotel-Kaftarxona bus station (shared taxi)

Order a taxi through a Yandex taxi app through the Samarkand hotel’s owner. If you do not have an Uzbek SIM card, you will have to ask somebody who does.

You pay the driver in cash, so no need to reimburse the person ordering it for you (as would be the case with Uber or Lyft).

From a hotel close to Registan in Samarkand, I paid UZS 10,000 ($1) to the bus station, 10 minutes driving time.

And the final thought. Please start early. Most of the transportation is taking place in the morning or early afternoon. As always, you do not want to travel through the border to a new destination when it is already dark.

Unrushed at Kaftarxona

This Samarkand bus station is called Kaftarxona, pronounced “kafthar-khona“.

Your taxi will drop you off on the main road next to many private taxis. Please appear unrushed and in control, even if you have never been here before.

You have been travelling around Central Asia a lot. This is just another bus station and just another routine negotiation for you.

This will generate respect on the drivers’ side, get you to the border quicker, and for a (much) lower price.

Finally, before leaving your taxi from the hotel, please rehearse your price limit. Once you arrive and get off your car, all eyes will be on you and the negotiation process will start immediately.

(2) Samarkand Kaftarxona bus station: shared taxi to the Uzbekistan border

“Tamozhnya”

The local term for the border is “tamozhnya” and you will hear it a lot. Do not say in English that you want to go the border. Simply say “tamozhnya”. If you know any more words in Russian, say them now.

Taxi drivers will drop their initial stratospheric tourist prices ($20-40) when you pronounce it right, as they will assume you know what you are doing. You will still stand out as a tourist, but they will conclude you either crossed this border before or did your research. Either way it will help.

Private or shared taxi?

Upfront you will have to make a decision if you want a private taxi (you are the only passenger) or a shared one (you buy an individual seat and there will be additional 2-3 guests in the car).

There are many (shared) taxis in Kaftarxona and drivers will approach you to offer their car to the border.

Unless you want to have the whole car to yourself (or your group), it probably makes sense to ride in a shared taxi as there is only a 1-5 minute waiting time for the car to fill up. There are many villages on the way to the border and there are plenty of locals going the same route as well.

OK to negotiate with a few drivers at the same time

Do not yield to pressure. Some drivers will undoubtedly say that they are just about to depart and you have to go now (“Come, quick, quick”). They will also try to grab your bags and put them in their trunk. Do NOT let this happen. It will make your negotiation position worse.

Also, the competition among drivers is fierce. They need your fare. Do not rush and you will depart in a few minutes for a good price.

Moreover, it is fine (and recommended) to talk to more than one driver. They are all going in the same direction soon. Their cars are similar. Beyond the price, little difference which car you take. Secondly, it will create some competition among them.

Finally, always ask how many passengers they already have. It is fine (and almost expected) to look into their car and check.

UZS 20,000 ($2)

You should not pay more than UZS20,000 ($2) for one person in a shared taxi one way.

The whole taxi via the Yandex app from my original hotel was UZS100,000 ($10), which is a useful benchmark.

Firm price

Now, some good news. Once you fixed your price, it will probably be honored. The driver will most likely not try to renegotiate it during the drive or to add some extra fees or permits at the end.

(3) Uzbekistan – Tajikistan border crossing

The taxi will drop off you just in front the Uzbek border gate. Your passport and the entry Uzbek visa will be checked and you will be let through the gate.

Walk for 1 minute and enter a small building on the right hand side with the Uzbekistan immigration office windows. A friendly officer will take your picture and stamp out your passport.

You will walk for about 3 minutes through the “no man’s land”.

Approach the Tajik immigration control in another small building on the right hand side. Again, a photo taken, a new stamp and the whole process is over in 2 minutes.

In November 2022 NO Covid-19 certificates or tests were requested at either border office.

As the Covid entry requirements have been changing frequently, you might want to check:

https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/uzbekistan/entry-requirements

(4) Tajikistan border crossing – Penjakent

After the Tajikistan passport control you will then walk for an additional 2 minutes and approach the Tajik closed gate.

If you meet other tourists in the passport control, it helps if you exit the gate and negotiate together.

Here the real fun is starting. Take a deep breath, rehearse your destination and your budget limit again, and enter the lions’ den when the gate opens.

10-20 drivers who will immediately run to you. Asking for your destination (or not). Already offering to carry your luggage to their car (they will definitely do it but do NOT let it happen). Proclaiming to be your friend in many languages (including probably your own regardless where you come from). Plus the other usual taxi arrangement pleasantries (“the petrol price is very high”, “you have to go with me now as I am the last one to leave”, etc.).

All this to create a mental pressure and make you pay a higher price.

Negotiate firm

The initial prices quoted will be, as usually, highly excessive and only the initial firing shot in the delightful negotiation game. You would almost offend the taxi drivers by accepting those initial prices and depriving them of the pleasure of negotiating with you.

There also seem to be tiers of drivers with the most aggressive ones initially approaching you and quoting the highest prices. Once you indicate you are not easy prey, the other more reasonable providers will approach you with lower numbers.

Moreover, it is absolutely fine (and expected) to reject the initial offers. It is also fine to negotiate with a few drivers at the same time. They need your fare. The competition is intense. There are no hundreds or thousands of tourists arriving. Time is on your side.

The final prices to Penjakent offered were $3 per person one-way, Seven Lakes ($50 for the entire car one-way), Artuch ($40 for the entire car one way), and Iskanderkul ($90 for the entire car one way).

If those prices are still too high, a perfectly reasonable option is to travel to Penjakent and repeat the whole negotiating game at a lower level. Unfortunately, there seems to be a significant premium charged at the border. The drop-off point for the border cars in Penjakent is similar to the departure spot for the other destinations, next to the bazaar.

Congratulations, you made it. And you did a favor to the fellow travelers in the future by not accepting outlandish prices.

(5) The individual prices on the return trip Tajikistan-Uzbekistan border crossing

The prices for the return trip Penjakent-Samarkand turn out to be different. There is a premium charged by the drivers at the either side of the border.

Therefore, the same Kaftarxona-border distance will be cheaper than the border-Kaftarxona ride. There is a monopoly of the drivers at the border and they know we are not going to walk to Samarkand or Penjakent. Negotiate firm but accept that you will be overcharged at the either side of the border. The Uzbek and Tajik drivers are completely in agreement how to squeeze an extra dollar or two.

Penjakent – Tajikistan border crossing

Returning from Penjakent, the prices are lower when starting near the Penjakent bazaar. The shared taxis to the border are departing from the main bazaar. When facing the main bazaar main entrance, walk to the left for 1 minute. Taxi drivers (and their friends, and their friends’ friends) will approach you yelling “tamozhnya” (border).

An individual seat in a shared taxi from the Penjakent bazaar to tamozhnya should be UZS 15,000 ($1.50). As always, you will hear a much higher quote first (UZS 50,000 or even UZS 100,000). Counteroffer UZS 15,000 and be firm.

Unless you are in a hurry (or it is getting dark), time is on your side. Somebody will yield in a few minutes, the competition among the drivers is fierce.

Uzbekistan border crossing – Kaftarxona

The pricing from the border to Samarkand Kaftarxona bus station is also higher than in the opposite direction.

The local term for the Samarkand bus station is “kaftar-khona” and you will hear it a lot. Simply say “kaftar-khona”. If you know any more words in Russian, say them now.

Same as earlier, taxi drivers will drop their initial stratospheric tourist prices ($20-40) when you pronounce it right, as they will assume you know what you are doing.

The price for an individual seat in a shared taxi was UZS 50,000 ($5) to Kaftarxona in September 2022. There are also cramped marshrutkas for UZS25,000 per seat.

Again, the initial prices offered will be significantly higher. They will depend how the driver evaluates your ability to pay, how many passengers he already has, or his life on this day in general. You will hear UZS 100,000-200,000 ($10-20) initially with a range of reasons why everything got so expensive and there is nothing to be done about it.

Be firm and you will get to Samarkand for UZS 50,000 ($5) in a shared taxi (45 minutes away).

If you are going here, the guide is here: Samarkand

More information

Beyond this guide to the Uzbekistan-Tajikistan border crossing, some more information about the region.

If you go to Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan – Kyrgyzstan border at Dostyk will help with the border crossing.

When travelling to Kazakhstan: How to cross the Kyrgyzstan – Kazakhstan border at Korday.

If you are traveling by train, How to buy Uzbekistan train ticket will help, especially if you set the default language to English first.

Finally, here is a guide to Bukhara and Samarkand how to get to them.

The overall country travel guide: Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan.

Samarkand

This guide to Samarkand includes why visit, how to get there, how to get around, what to see, where to stay and where to go next.

Why visit Samarkand?

Samarkand is one of the main reasons to visit Uzbekistan. If you are a history fan or not, seeing the main historical plaza (Der Registan) at sunset or seeing its impressive design and workmanship will probably leave a profound impression for months and years. This is truly one of the “bucketlist” destinations, which merits at least one full day and preferably two nights / three days.

In addition, Samarkand has a different feel from Bukhara. Bukhara’s old city is clearly defined and separated from the new city. Walking around Bukhara’s compact old city transports you back a few hundred years. Samarkand is different as it is a regular large city with the historical sites embedded in various locations. Most of them are within 15-30 minute walking distance, with some additional ones within a 10 minute taxi ride. There are only a few key sites embedded in the city but they will make a major impression, no matter how much time you spend there.

How to get to Samarkand?

(1) Fly

The international airport is located only 6km from the city center, a breeze to arrive. Due to the increasing tourist numbers, the airport has steadily expanded the (international) flights since it opened in 1992.

(2) Train

Unless flying in, by the far the most convenient way. The Uzbekistan Railways have significantly upgraded their trains and acquired the new European-manufactured Talgo trains. These Afrosiyob trains are modern, clean, punctual and with good air-conditioning. Unfortunately, in 2022 they did not offer wifi on any connection.

Afrosiyob connects the standard tourist trail of Tashkent – Samarkand – Bukhara. This train has business and economy sections with the competitive pricing (e.g., Tashkent – Bukhara economy of UZS168,000 ($16), Bukhara – Samarkand economy of UZS71,600 ($7)). Those trains are faster and more comfortable than buses or taxis and are accordingly in high demand. During the tourist peak season (spring and fall), you might want to purchase the tickets a few days in advance. Tickets may be bought in person at the train stations, on the web or using the excellent Uzbekistan Railways app. It is intuitive, not crashing, accepting foreign credit cards and can be set to English.

If Afrosiyob is sold out, you would have to take the slower Sharq or “passenger” trains. Unfortunately, they are not significantly cheaper than the Afrosiyob connections.

(3) Coach / Bus

Slower than the train by 1-2 hours with less comfortable seats, the train is clearly preferred to the bus journey. Take it only if there are no train tickets available.

(4) (Shared) taxi

Similarly, a taxi ride will be longer than a train ride with more cramped seats. Take it only if there are no train tickets available.

How to get around?

When arriving at the railway station, there are two options to your hotel and the tourist sites.

(1) Taxi

A one-way ride to the main tourist area around the Registan should not cost more than $3-5.

(2) Samarkand tramway

A modern line 1 will take you to the bazaar and the Registan. The tram departs from the stop 1 minute outside of the railway station to your left when exiting the station. Careful, there are two trams departing from the same stop, you want line 1, which departs approximately every 15 minutes. Buy the ticket from the driver or there will be a ticket collector in the carriage. The ticket will be less than $0.50.

If you have heavy luggage, take a taxi.

What to see in Samarkand?

(1) Registan, the main Samarkand attraction

Photos of the Registan are probably the most famous pictures of Uzbekistan, and with a good reason. The site is stunning, both in its overall arrangement, the well-proportioned buildings, and the outstanding external and internal mosaics. It is the main historical square with the three impressive Quran schools (madrassah): Tillya-Kori, Sherdor and Ulugh-beg. Every one is outstanding, but Tillya-Kori (“decorated with gold”) has especially amazing intricate designs. Sherdor has interesting Zoroaster elements not usually present in other madrassah (e.g., tiger / deer / sun motifs). All have rich mosaics both inside and outside, which are changing color during the day. Probably at least an hour to visit the square.

entry ticket

In 2022 a one-time entry ticket to Registan and all three madrassah is UZS 50,000. The ticket has a unique QR code which has to be read on turnstiles to gain entry. Unfortunately, this QR code is valid only for a one-off entry. If you want to come back later the same day for the sunset, unfortunately you will have to purchase another ticket. You might have some thoughts about this approach, but that is the status as of 2022. There is an open platform, which is facing (and is fenced off from) the plaza and which is free of charge. Hundreds of locals and tourists will be in the plaza and on the benches around, and you will hear all the languages around.

when to visit registan?

You can enter Registan between 8am and 11pm (6pm on Tuesday). If you want to visit each madrassah, the best time in the summer is to arrive at 8am when (a) it is still relatively cool, and (b) there are few tourists. In other words, there might be some tourists, but the large tour groups seem to be arriving later. This is the time if you want to have those monuments largely to yourself.

Tilla Kari, Samarkand
Deserted Tillya-Kori at 08:05am.

The second popular timepoint is at sunset when the lights are being turned on and Registan is being illuminated. There will be many locals and tourists arriving around this time but the views (and the photos) are impressive.

There is a “music and lights show” on Sunday evenings including Uzbek music with colorful lights. Some will love it, some might have a disco feeling. There is an elegant neutral lighting on the remaining days.

(2) Shah-i-Zinda mausoleum complex

Approximately 15 minutes walking distance away, the Shah-i-Zinda is a group of tomb buildings dedicated to the earlier rulers. It has a feel a bit similar to the Valley of the Kings in Egypt, except that those are a few thousand years younger, not underground and closely located to one another. Fortunately, only one entry ticket for all of them.

(3) Bibi-Khanym Mosque

Another impressive mosque and mausoleum buildings. However, many tourists skip visiting the inside past the ticket gate as there is little to see inside.

(4) Amir Temur Mausoleum Gur-i-Amir complex

This is the 15th century mausoleum of the great conqueror Timur, who is an integral part of the Uzbek history. Unfortunately, the site was under extensive renovation in 2022 with few tourists and guides around.

(5) Observatory of Ulugbek

Ulugh bek was an outstanding 15th century astronomer and mathematician, and also the governor of Samarkand in his spare time. In short, a great mind who also built the Ulugh-bek madrassah at the Registan. This site was also under construction with few tourists making the trip up north (15 minutes by taxi).

(6) Hazrat Khizr Mosque

This is a small and active mosque with many local families coming to pray. A very atmospheric area perfect for a quick rest on the way to Shah-i-Zinda, just across the Siab Bazaar. It offers excellent views towards the Bibi-Khanym Mosque.

(7) Countless additional mosques and madrassah

If you are still not tired after the earlier magnificent monuments, there are many additional ones. They include Mechet Koraboy Oksokol (across Bibi-Khanym, a small mosque but with and excellent blue-glazed dome), Abu Mansura Maturidi’s mausoleum or Maqbira prophet hazrat Daniyal (a religious site).

All of the main site are currently charging entry fees ranging UZS 20,000 – 50,000 in 2022 ($2 – 5). Most are operating the turnstiles with the one-off QR codes.

Where to stay in Samarkand?

I stayed at the Hotel Han, 5 mins walking distance from the Registan. It is located in a residential area with mainly local shops, restaurants and bakeries. You will see children playing on the street, men drinking tea in front of their houses, or sellers offering the freshly-baked bread and amazing fruits. Overall a safe area with no issues even when walking at night.

Hotel Han has an internal courtyard with a large eating area, where guests eat sumptuous breakfast. The owner speaks excellent English and is happy to help with any questions you might have. He will also order a taxi for you, walk with you and put you into the right vehicle. In addition, he will also mention a friendly piece advice to the taxi driver to take the straight route and not create any issues.

The rooms are modern with strong hot water, Western-style toilets, and comfortable beds. Highly recommended.

Where to go next?

Bukhara and Khiva are the other two stunning historic sites in Uzbekistan. Samarkand is also a convenient start for the crossing into Tajikistan and its magnificent Fann mountains.

How to cross the Uzbekistan – Tajikistan border describes the Samarkand-Penjakent border crossing.

If you are going to Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan – Kyrgyzstan border at Dostyk will help.

Bukhara

This guide to the impressive Silk Road town of Bukhara includes why visit Bukhara, how to get to Bukhara, what to do with itinerary, where to stay, and where to go next.

Why Visit Bukhara?

Together with Samarkanda and Khiva, this is a quintessential medieval Silk Road town. Built on the trade riches, war tributes and bounty of the conquered nations, Bukhara has become one of the leading cities in Islamic XII-XVIII centuries. A strong Islamic scholarship, architecture and culture were flourishing here. The city is full of the impressive Quranic schools (madrassah), mosques and mausolea to the previous rulers of the city. Definitely one of the highlights of Uzbekistan, don’t miss it.

The old city is compact with most sites within a 15 minute walk. If you visit during the hot summer months (40C is standard during the midday heat), the old town will be deserted with traders and tourists enjoying their siesta. Cats are dozing in the shady corner and even flies seem to be giving up and have vanished.

On the other hand, this might be an excellent time to visit as you will have the monuments largely to yourself. In addition, shade is abundantly available, and everybody is maximizing the shade time and minimizing walking in the open sun. Secondly, Bukhara air is dry so 36C might be more bearable than 30C in humid New York or London. Secondly, the excellent Uzbekistan Railways Afrosiyob trains will have ticket availability daily. That is unlike the peak tourist times of May and September, when you might have to travel on slower and less comfortable Soviet-era Sharq trains.

In short, this is a delightful old city for at least 2 nights and three days, which will be plenty to cover the major sites, some of them probably a few times. Secondly, it is highly recommended to visit the venues again in the evening as the illuminated buildings are impressive. Secondly, it will be more pleasant to to walk around when the temperatures dropped by at least 10C.

How to get to Bukhara?

Bukhara offers a variety of excellent transportation options.

(1) Train to Bukhara

Unless flying in, by the far the most convenient way. The Uzbekistan Railways have significantly upgraded their trains and acquired the new European-manufactured Talgo trains. These Afrosiyob trains are modern, clean, punctual and with good air-conditioning. Unfortunately, in August 2022 they did not offer wifi on any connection.

The standard tourist trail of Tashkent – Samarkand – Bukhara is all being served by Afrosiyob. This train has the business and economy sections with the competitive pricing (e.g., Tashkent – Bukhara economy of UZS168,000 ($16), Bukhara – Samarkand economy of UZS71,600 ($7)). Those trains are faster and more comfortable than buses or taxis and are accordingly in high demand. During the tourist peak season (spring and fall), you might want to purchase the tickets a few days in advance. Tickets may be bought in person at the train stations, on the web or using the excellent Uzbekistan Railways app. It is intuitive, not crashing, accepting foreign credit cards and can be set to English.

Bukhara Afrosiyob
Afrosiyob, the best way to go around Uzbekistan (if available).

(2) Plane

There is an international airport with regular scheduled flights. The prices will probably be higher than arriving in Tashkent but you will save time.

(3) Coach / Bus

Longer than the train by 1-2 hours with less comfortable seats, the train is clearly preferred to the bus journey. Take it only if there are no train tickets available.

(4) (Shared) taxi

Similarly, a taxi ride will be longer than a train ride with more cramped seats. Take it only if there are no train tickets available.

Get around Bukhara

Bukhara’s old town is compact and walkable. There are a few sites within 15-30 minute walking distance (e.g., Central Bazaar, Samanid Mausoleum, Chashma-Ayub Mausoleum, Qo’sh Madrasa, all to the west of the old city). Some of the distance may be done in a park limiting exposure to the relentless sun. Most tourists stay within the well-defined old city.

From the train station you can either take a taxi or a public bus. Depending on your negotiation skills, the taxi should not cost more than $3-5 to the old city. The bus will be less than $1.

What to do in Bukhara (itinerary)?

Bukhara is one of the main reasons for visiting Uzbekistan. One of the top three Silk Road attractions in Uzbekistan (together with Samarkand and Khiva), it justifies at least 2 nights to spend there.

Bukhara also has a different feel than Samarkand. Samarkand is a regular large town with a population of 600,000, with some amazing Islamic buildings embedded in various spots of this vibrant city. Bukhara is smaller with a population of 280,000, but the all major historic sites are located in the compact old city, or close nearby. The old city conveys much more the feeling of an Islamic medieval city with the madrasah (Islamic religious schools), mosques, caravanseray and old shops in the old city. Yes, there are some cars and, of course, countless traders trying to sell the usual indispensable tourist products, but it all feels like some noise in the otherwise well-preserved and atmospheric old city.

The main sites include the Islamic religious schools (madrasah), mosques, old trading venues, and tombs of the earlier rulers. A visit to the Central Bazaar is probably not to be missed. It is an active market catering mainly to the local population and not the tourist trade.

The key sites are all within walking distance and include:

(1) Nadir Divan-Begi Madrasah

This will probably be the first main old Islamic building you will encounter when entering the old city. It is next to a small park offering some respite from the relentless sun. It is probably a warm-up as there will be other more impressive sites but pleasant to start with.

(2) Ko’kaldosh Madrasah

Immediately to your right you will see the Ko’kaldosh madrasah, another initial building. Again, nice to start with but there will be much more impressive monuments later on.

(3) Lyabi House

Things are starting to get significantly more impressive with Lyabi House, 2 minutes away. It is attractively located next to an old small pool with restaurants around it. Lyabi House was constructed around 1620 A.D. The architecture is stunning and there is no entry fee. The food around the pool is average at best at inflated prices.

(4) Magoki Attor

This small temple is actually one of the oldest sacred sites in Bukhara. Translated as “Pit of Herbalists” there was a pagan temple, a Buddhist shrine, a Zoroastrian fire temple, a mosque, a synagogue, and finally the current mosque. Small and without the intricate tiles and engravings, but full of history and atmospheric. Not to be missed.

(5) Mir-i-Arab Madrassah

Walking another minute, this is one of the top sites in Bukhara (and Uzbekistan) and definitely not to be missed. You are coming to the most stunning square in Bukhara. An outstanding madrassah, a mosque and a minaret have been all impressively designed. Mir-i-Arab is a striking Islamic religious school with intricate patterns and a vast hall. The patterns are evaluated as some of the finest in Bukhara, and they were individually designed and crafted.

Bukhara
Mir-i-Arab madrassah.

(6) Minorai Kalon

An impressive 48m medieval minaret and watchtower constructed in 1127 AD. Stunning decorations and well-illuminated at night. Not to be missed, especially after the sunset when the square is incredibly atmospheric with the Mir-i-Arab, Minorai Kalon and Kalan Mosque. Definitely one of the top sites in Uzbekistan.

Bukhara
Minorai Kalon at sunset.
bukhara
Tranquil and impressive.

(7) Kalan Mosque

Constructed in the 16th century with a large hall and still an active mosque. A truly magical experience at sunset when the tiles are glimmering and changing colors.

(8) Abdulaziz Khan Madrassah

2 minutes away are two extremely impressive madrassahs facing each other in a side street: Abdulaziz Khan (built in 1652) and Ulugbek. I found those two madrassah, and especially the Abdulaziz Khan, very impressive even though they are not renovated and not as glimmering as their cousins 2 minutes away.

The design and architecture of the Abdulaziz Khan Madrassah is stunning from the external gate and the vision of heaven through righteous life and study. This madrassah is the youngest of the main Islamic schools, and every effort was made to surpass other existing ones with architectural splendor and intricate tiles. Immediately to your left there is a small museum with a helpful curator, who will describe the meaning of heaven and hell and the architectural design to convey them. There is an entry fee of UZS50,000 ($5) which might look rather steep, but given the magnificence of the inside is well worth it. In addition, the ticket is valid for 3 days.

(9) Ulugbek Madrassah

Completed in 1417 by the mathematician, astrologist and governor of Bukhara, Ulug-beg. Can be entered using the same ticket purchased at Abdulaziz Khan Mandrassah. Not fully-renovated, which adds to its raw beauty. There are plenty of small shops in the study rooms and dormitories, but the sellers are only moderately aggressive in their selling tactics.

All these monuments alone are sufficiently impressive to leave a lasting memory (and tens of photos). If you are still looking for some new ones, there are many more in Bukhara. Some of my personal favorites include:

(10) Qo’sh Madrassah

It is outside of the current old city (15 minutes walk) and currently attracts almost no tourists. It is also close to the park and the bazaar if you are heading this way. The architecture and the intricate engravings are on par with the more famous cousins in the old city. The city of Bukhara has renovated it and started marketing it to the city guides and tourists. Currently no entry fee and you will have it probably to yourself. Impressive and tranquil.

We were lucky to visit Qo’sh madrassah when there was a party with a traditional performance.

(11) Bolo Hauz Mosque

10 minutes north in the direction of the bazaar is this mosque constructed in 1712. It is actually different with some colorful decorative vaulting and wooden columns. Blissfully serene and impressive, especially at night. Currently no entry fee.

(12) Arc of Bukhara

On your way to the sites above, this fortress was the residence of the last Khan of Bukhara until 1920. Interesting architecture inside and some museums. Good photos around the sunset time. Entry fee UZS60,000 ($6).

Those sites provide 2 solid days of sightseeing and a good overview of the glory of Bukhara during the Silk Road period.

Where to stay in Bukhara?

As one of the main tourist attractions in Uzbekistan, Bukhara has a range of accommodation options ranging from high-end converted old houses to mid-range options to homestays.

I stayed in and liked the excellent Rahmat Guesthouse. It is located in the old city 5 minutes away from the Minorai minaret square. Tastefully renovated and furnished with strong hot water pressure and air conditioning. Very friendly owners who will prepare an organic home-made breakfast in the shaded courtyard. Happy to help with ANY question you might have (and I had many), all answered with knowledge, humor and patience.

Where to go next?

Samarkand and Khiva are the other top sites in Uzbekistan. Getting to Samarkand by the fast Afrosiyob train will take 2 hours. Unfortunately, traveling to Khiva will take 6 hours.