Category: Countries

Diyarbakir

Come to Diyarbakir for the historic city, and you will remember it as the city with the best breakfast in Turkey. This guide to includes why go there, how to get there, where to stay, what to do, where to eat (serious business in this city!), and where to go next.

Why visit Diyarbakir?

Diyarbakir is the largest city in south-eastern Turkey next to the mighty Tigris river. It is considered by some to be the most beautiful city in the region. The old city, which is clearly defined by the imposing miles of antique walls, is a little run down, but has a distinct character different from the modern areas even immediately outside the walls. Old mosques and caravanserai. Men congregating in tea houses. Street vendors selling freshest fruits and vegetables. Cats sleeping in the corner next to some old Byzantine stones. The smell of freshly-baked bread and donuts (“simit”) wafting in the air.

All this makes for an unhurried exploration concentrated on the flow of life, and enjoying an excellent breakfast or coffee in one of the merchants’ old houses converted to lovely artsy cafes. In short, a delightful destination for a few days to enjoy life with no pressure to scale another mountain, spend hours in a museum or bungy-jump a bridge.

How to get to there?

The transportation is excellent also in Diyarbakir with long-distance coaches and minibuses (dolmus) to all main cities. Sanliurfa is 2 hours 30 minutes away, a relatively short ride given the distances in Turkey. There are several good local coach companies including Öz Diyarbakir, Özlem Diyarbakir or Star Diyarbakir. In my experience, the Öz Diyarbakir coaches were on time, clean, with wifi working and the comfortable 2+1 seating.

The main bus station (“otogar”) is not close to the city center but 10 km away. The usual choice of a taxi (a few $ if you do not get overcharged) or a city minibus (dolmus) are plentiful.

If opting for the dolmus, you will have to exit the bus station through the main gate where your coach has entered, and immediately turn right. Walk to the next roundabout for about 5 minutes, the dolmus stop is diagonally across the roundabout. The next dolmus will be probably in a few minutes at most, the journey to old town will take, depending on traffic, 15-20 minutes. For the old town get off at the roundabout next to the old town (Mountain Gate or Diyarbakir Surlari). If unsure, please ask the fellow passangers who will politely help. A one-way ride was $0.30 in September 2022. The old town is compact and walkable and most destinations might be reached within 10-15 minutes.

Where to stay in Diyarbakir?

Many choices exist in Diyarbakir’s old town, where most tourists tend to stay. There are bigger modern hotels attracting tour groups or smaller establishments. However, I liked the Köprücü Hotel: one minute walking from the roundabout where you might get off from the bus station, on the main road across the Nebi Cami mosque. My room was impeccably clean with daily refresh, the bed was comfortable, the air conditioning worked well, there was a traditional Turkish healthy breakfast, and the reception staff was friendly. All that at a good price point, what’s not to like?

What to do there?

Diyarbakir was a major trading town in the Roman/Byzantine and Islamic times and generated considerable wealth visible in the city walls, mosques, caravanserai and houses converted to cafes. The main sites include:

(1) Ulu Cami, the main mosque

Formerly a Christian cathedral, this large building complex is entered through a single wooden gate. At sunrise (or sunset) hugely peaceful and atmospheric. Diyarbakir became a Muslim city in 639 and the former Saint Thomas cathedral was converted into the city’s main mosque.

The current mosque was, however, rebuilt in the 1090s. You can still see some of the earlier Roman influence (e.g., Corinthian columns from the local Roman amphitheater). You will also see some Arabic inscriptions, which were later added to the Roman elements. There is also an interesting sundial on one of the ablution fountains in the middle of the mosque. It was designed by a 13th-century engineer Al Jazari, one of the most respected engineers of the Islamic world.

Ulu Cami is also interesting because its courtyard has four clearly-defined sides, which represent the four different schools of Sunni Islam: Hanafi, Maliki, Shafi’i and Hanbali. Diyarbakir is mainly Hanafi.

(2) City walls around Diyarbakir’s old town

They are 5.7 kms in length making them the second-longest wall in the world after the Great Wall of China! They were constructed in the 4th century AD by the Roman emperor Constantius II with later additions and modifications. A walk along the city walls away from the main gate will show the impressive well-preserved sections with Roman (imperial eagles) and Islamic engravings. A word of caution: do not attempt this walk in the summer heat (as truly yours might have done), as there are sections with no shade in direct sunlight. Also, it is not advisable to walk the city walls or enter their individual towers for safety reasons.

(3) The Citadel

Many things to see here. A well-preserved section of the city walls with a museum. An interesting active Prophet Süleyman-Nasiriye Mosque. A tree-lined park in front with the local families. Impressive views from the walls towards the river and the plains. There is a the partially-reconstructed Saint George church. Its dome does not exist anymore but even the remainings hint at the scale of the original temple. Especially recommended during sunset.

(4) Caravansarai on the main road opposite the main mosque

Currently a booming place for cafes, shops and souvenirs. The architecture is lovely but it had a distinct over-touristed factor.

(5) Small cafes or restaurants in the renovated merchants’ homes

They are 2-5 minutes away from the main road. Artfully renovated, with internal courtyards, some offering live music. Exquisite with trees, small fountains and period furniture. They usually serve excellent breakfast (“kahvalti” pronounced “kah-vahl-tuh”), coffee, light lunch and dinner. A perfect place to start your day, escape the midday sun and just enjoy the moment (or three). There will be plenty of locals and most likely you will be one of the few (or only) foreigner there. Most probably you will be met with a broad smile and the obligatory question “Do you like Diyarbakir?”. Two magic words in Turkish (“lütfen kahvalti”, “breakfast please”) will produce rows and rows of savory and sweet delicacies, and make your day.

(6) Diyarbakir’s new city

Outside of the old city there is a vibrant new city with lively cafes and restaurants. A completely different feel from the old city, please do not exclude it from your plans.

Where to eat in Diyarbakir?

Eating here is serious business. The quality is high, the competition in town fierce. And the food competition with other Anatolian cities is strong and seems to be a source of local pride. You will eat well here, and only for a few dollars.

(1) Zinciriye Konaği Kahvalti Ve Cafe

This is one of the reasons why Diyarbakir has the best breakfast in Turkey. A traditional breakfast (kahvalti) in a courtyard of a renovated house is guaranteed to be both a culinary and visual experience. I found the Zinciriye Konaği Kahvalti Ve Cafe excellent. It is located next to the main mosque Ulu Cami, exit through the small gate with the wooden door diagonally the main mosque entrance. The restaurant is to your right with the entrance through the small parking lot. A wealthy Islamic house tastefully renovated with trees and plants plus a fountain with period furniture. On the day I visited kahvalti comprised of 25 separate dishes including the Turkish-style scrambled eggs with sausage similar to chorizo and home-made yoghurt. You can stay here for 10 minutes or several hours after all those delicious calories. Just sip tea and marvel at Silk Road’s merchants’ quality of life.

In September 2022 all that for $5 (not a typo).

Diyarbakir breakfast
Breakfast in Diyarbakir for 1 (one) person

(2) Diyarbakirevi Kahvalticafe

Another competitor for the best breakfast in Diyarbakir and Turkey. An excellent place in a similar shaded courtyard setting is Diyarbakirevi Kahvalticafe. It is located further down the main road on the opposite side. Smaller portions and less calories but also delicious, all for $4.40. Similarly, few foreign tourists.

(3) Ciğerci Ramazan

Diyarbakir is also famous for its lamb liver kebab (“ciğer kebabi”). It is competing heavily against other cities (e.g., Sanliurfa) for the crown of the best ciğer kebab in Anatolia. There are several contenders for the top spot in Diyarbakir’s old (and new) city as well.

Ciğerci Ramazan is one minute from the main road. This is real stuff: only locals with families (always an excellent sign), no Western tourists, no English menu. Other good signs include a huge grill with appetizing smells, owner working and greeting you when entering, and nice staff. Finally, unlimited bread and salad (try that in New York or London!) with tea served promptly at the end, all excellent for $5 (not a typo again).

The ciğer kebab here is larger than in Sanliurfa with sizable juicy and flavorful chunks.

(4) Sanliurfa Lahmacun ve Pide Evi

Lahmacun is similar to a thin-crust (or very thin-crust) pizza with toppings on top. Straight from the oven piping hot and usually not greasy. It is an excellent appetizer or a meal by itself as served with salad or hot peppers on the side. This place is usually packed with locals, always an excellent sign. For me Sanliurfa Lahmacun ve Pide Evi was one of the best places to try in Diyarbakir. One minute from the main street in a side street.

Where to go next?

Within a few hours bus ride from Diyarbakir, Anatolia offers other interesting historical sites:

and outstanding large cities:

Also, for the overall guide to southern Turkey: Guide to Southern Turkey (Anatolia): Why Visit / Itinerary

Mardin: ancient Silk Road town

This guide to Mardin includes why to go there, how to get there, where to stay, what to do, where to eat and where to go next.

Why go to Mardin?

Mardin is another historical city in south-eastern Anatolia. It is located on a hill with the original fortress at the top with the old heavily-decorated houses cascading down. Mardin was a wealthy stop on the Silk Road and the resulting prosperity created the intricate buildings well-preserved to this day. Mardin was also the capital of the Turkic Artuqid dynasty between the 12th and 15th centuries, during which many of the Islamic heritage (mosques and madrasah, the religious schools) were constructed. The city has been also the center of the Syriac people with the Syriac Christian Orthodoxy being estabished in 431AD. Given its uniqueness, Mardin is a magnet for the Turkish tourists, also coming on tours, from Istanbul and Ankara. The views towards Mesopotamia and Syria are impressive from one of the Mardin cafes or restaurants, especially at sunset.

How to get there?

Mardin is well connected with a modern coach station (“otogar”) in the new part of the city. There are coaches to Urfa every 30-60 minutes, Diyarbakir, Istanbul and Ankara. The local companies include Mardin Seyahat and Dilmenler Mardin. Whereas Mardin Seyahat was fine, Dilmenler Mardin is not recommended (the wifi was not working, the bus was not clean and was delayed).

From the otogar to the old city (“eski Mardin”) the transportion options include a taxi or a city minibus. The modern minibus will take approximately 15 minutes to the old city and costs $0.30. Walking there is not recommended during the hot weather and climbing the hill road.

Where to stay in Mardin?

The first decision is if to stay in the old town or the new city (“Yenişehir”) close to the bus station. The new city will be cheaper and in a modern accommodation, but will require a minibus ride. The old city will be more atmospheric but more expensive. There are many hotels in Mardin catering to the tourist trade.

What to do there?

Mardin is a tourist town with all main sites in the old city along the main street (“1. Cadde” or “Cumhuriyet Caddesi”). They include the Church of the Forties (“Kirklar Kilisesi”), Zinciriye Medresesi (an old Islamic religious school), Citadel (“Kale”) and the Great Mosque. Please respect the etiquette when visiting mosques by taking off your shoes and placing them on the shelves, and avoid visiting during the prayer times.

The main attraction of Mardin is to see the important buildings, walk the maze of old houses uphill, sip coffee in one of the cafes with positive vibes, and have a good meal. In short, have a good time at a leisurly pace. No mountains to ascend or no big museums required to attend. Take it easy and enjoy.

There are some excellent cafes up the hill with few tour groups making the climb. While sipping dibek or menengic (the local coffee specialties), look at the flats of Mesopotamia, as if they extended till the end of the world.

There is also a potential one-day trip to another old town, Midyat. Many Turkish TV movies (including the successful soap operas) have been made in Midyat. Similar to Mardin but on a flat surface, 40 minutes by minibus.

Where to eat in Mardin?

There is a huge variety of restaurants along the main road. Two places were excellent. A tiny falafel place “Falafel Ammo Hamza” serving probably the best falafel in town by nice Syrian brothers. It is located at the beginning of the main road, easy to miss as so small. The falafel is not fatty but crispy and made to order. Sublime.

“Markulo Fasil” is a regular restaurant with a nice terrace overlooking the main street. The mezze are excellent, there is frequently live music, nice owners and staff in an exquisitely-renovated building will make it a memorable meal.

Finally, the local Syriac orthodox Christian population has been producing wine for centuries here. Probably a unique opportunity to try the Assyrian flavor and compare with the usual California, French, Australian, Italian and other wines.

Where to go next?

Within a few hours bus ride from Mardin, Anatolia offers other interesting historical sites:

and outstanding large cities:

Guide to Nemrut Dagi, Turkey (2022)

This guide to Nemrut Dagi (Mount Nemrut) in Turkey includes

Why to go to Nemrut Dagi?

What is Nemrut Dagi in south-eastern Turkey?

Nemrut Dagi is a 2,134-meter-high mountain (7,001ft) with a royal tomb and statues erected around 1st century BC by a local king Antiochus I. He ruled over Commagene, one of the kingdoms created after the breakup of Alexander the Great’s empire. The king believed to descend from both the Greek / Hellenistic and Persian gods and cultures, so you will see Zeus-Oromasdes, Apollo-Mithras and Hearcles (Hercules)-Artagnes. The ruler was probably a decent politician, because he managed to rule a small independent buffer state between the competing empires.

This tomb-sanctuary is built on top of the mountain with the 8-9 meter (26-30ft) statues of the gods, two lions, two eagles and himself. The heads of the statues have been cut off and are currently sitting on the ground. Archeologists assume that the tomb of Antiochus I is buried on site, but its remains are not visible.

Nemrut Dagi was constructed as a monument to the king’s greatness. The king selected the highest mountain in his kingdom to be buried in as close to the gods as possible. The rules clearly wanted to be remembered for eternity. Based on the number of tourists visiting daily, he has largely succeeded. He considered himself an equal descending from both the Persian Achaemenids on his father’s side and the Greek Seleucids on his mother’s, two of the greatest dynasties in the ancient world.

Nemrut Dagi has two terraces with the similar statues, western and eastern. Karl Sester, a German road engineer, discovered the site only in 1881. Consequently, the centuries of exploitation and tourism have not damaged it, and it is in a relatively good condition. The views over the Firat river and the neighboring plains are far-reaching. Most tourists arrive for the sunrise or sunset which, on a clear day, are impressive.

Should you go there?

Overall, it is an interesting place with far-reaching views. However, it is remote with little historical significance. It is unique in Turkey, but you will probably not be awe-struck as by the pyramides in Egypt, Angkor Wat in Cambodia, Tikal in Guatemala or Borobudur in Indonesia. Nevertheless, one of the nice sites in Anatolia on most Anatolia tour itineraries. Most likely, you will not forget it any time soon. The views are stunning and the mix of the Greek / Roman / Persian monuments is remarkable. Definitely no similar mix in western Turkey.

How to get to Nemrut Dagi in south-eastern Turkey?

The site is located 40km (25m) north of Kahta, near Adiyaman.

There is no accommodation walking distance to the site so the main two options are (1) a tour, (2) taxi, or (3) your own car.

Given the number of tour minibuses, most tourists are coming on tours organized either in Kahta, Adiyaman (85km away) or Malatya (100km). When selecting a tour, the key questions are

  1. how much time you want to spend at Nemrut Dagi (sunrise only, sunset only, both sunrise and sunset),
  2. how uncrowded you want your experience to be (one of the first ones for the sunrise?),
  3. how early you want to wake up in your hotel (2 or 3am required depending on the month), and
  4. the tour cost (the longer distance the more expensive).

Local Nemrut Dagi tours

Given the distances and the mountains, you will need to hire a vehicle or go on a local or multi-day tour. Nemrut Dagi is NOT walkable or bikeable.

Depending on your individual circumstances, tours to Nemrut Dagi come in a few flavors. You can opt for a multi-day south-eastern Turkey tour out of Istanbul or Ankara, which has Nemrut Dagi as one of its destinations. You can organize a half- or full-day tour in any of the hotels in Adiyaman, Malatya or Kahta. Or you can independently travel to one of the villages closest to the site, enjoy the mountain views, wake up much later than 2am, have an excellent local organic breakfast, have a shorter drive to Nemrut, and be one of the first tourists there.

How to get to Nemrut Dagi and Karadut?

If you decide to do the last option (which I did), the best place to stay is Karadut, a lovely village closest to Nemrut. Mountain views out of your window, superb organic meals prepared by your host family, local hiking and shortest distance to Nemrut made the stay excellent. On the other hand, you will have to travel to Karadut, which is relatively remote.

When arriving on a coach from Adiyaman to Kahta, the bus station (“otogar”) is small, and you will arrive on the long-distance coach side. Cross through the station building where you will be walking by all the usual bus company desks and exit on the minibus (dolmus) side. Please ask for a minibus to Karadut, for me it was the third bay from the right. The minibus departs every 30-60 minutes depending on the time of the day. You will get off at the Karadut road junction, from which it is 3kms to the Karadut village. I stayed at the lovely Nemrut Daği Işik Pansion with excellent reviews, and the owner Mr Murat offered himself to pick me up at the Karadut road junction free of charge.

The half- or full-day Nemrut Dagi tours usually include also the ruins of Arsemia, Roman bridge of Cendere and the royal tomb (tumulus) of Karakuş. They are all interesting and are located in areas with nice views.

What are top sights?

(2) Karakus

The Commagene king Mithridates (36-21 BC) constructed the monument for his mother Isias, sisters Antiochis and Laodicea, and nephew Aka. The tumulus is named after an eagle statue on a single column. It was originally surrounded by six or nine columns. It is the only funerary site built for the Commagene’s royal women surving to this day. You can climb the tumulus and will be rewarded by nice views.

Karakus

(3) Cendere bridge

The Roman legion XVI constructed the Cendere bridge in 198-200AD in honor of the Roman emperor Septimius Severus. The bridge is in an excellent condition and measures 120m (390ft). It still has original Roman engravings, and is situated in a nice valley with a small gorge behind it. There is a shaded coffee place under the trees next to the bridge with a nice owner. A perfect place to break your journey in solitude.

(4) Arsemia

Arsemia (Arsameia) is a hillside location, which was the summer administration center of the Commagene kingdom. There are numerous carved statues and stele with the biggest Greek inscription in Anatolia. The most memorable one is probably an impressive depiction of the Commagene king with Heracles (Hercules) as equals.

The historical remains are few but well-preserved with stunning views.

Arsameia

(5) Nemrut Dagi

In September 2022 the entry ticket to Nemrut Dagi for foreigners was TRY40 ($2.50). You can buy it in a small tourist building, which also has a coffee place, bathrooms and the usual souvenirs.

There is a 600m climb from this tourist building and parking to the top. The path is well paved with low steps. Families with small children will be able to ascend as well.

However, bring a flashlight (or a fully-charged phone) when arriving before the sunrise or departing after the sunset.

Nemrut Dagi, Arsemia, Cendere and Karakus are all close nearby, but difficult to reach without own transportion. A half- or full-day tour with a knowledgable guide is a good investment, especially at the scorching 100F (38C) temperatures.

When visiting in June-August, please take plenty of water. Also bring a sweater for the Nemrut Dagi top as it may be windy and cool before the sunrise.

Where to stay and eat?

I stayed at the Nemrut Daği Işik Pansion in Karadut. I had all my meals at the Pansion as Karadut is a small village. You will eat the excellent home-made food made of own organic fruits and vegetables. The only external component was a piece of flavorful baklava (“but it is good baklava, not like others in shops”).

Overall evaluation

I am glad that I visited Nemrut Dagi in south-eastern Turkey. It is unique in its mix of the Greek and Persian cultures. I have not seen any similar sights in Turkey, Caucasus, northern Africa or the Middle East. Secondly, the Karakus, Arsemia and the Cendere Roman bridge were largely deserted but interesting and with spectacular views as well.

Overall, highly recommended if you are interested in history and archeological site.

Where to go next?

Ephesus in western Turkey is an all-time favorite for the stunning Roman ruins (Ephesus Visit – Top Tips).

Within a few hours from Nemrut Dagi, Anatolia offers other interesting historical sites:

Göbekli tepe, a temple complex allegedly 11,000 years old (Sanliurfa and Göbekli tepe (11,000 years old!))

If you go to Sanliurfa, please also visit the impressive Roman mosaics at the Zeugma museum.

Mardin: ancient Silk Road town

Guide to Southern Turkey (Anatolia): Why Visit / Itinerary

This guide summarizes why to visit, when to visit, safety, visas, how to get in, how to get around and a sample two-week itinerary. Excellent news, there are many reasons to visit southern Turkey. Everybody, from young to old, history buff to nature lover or foodie, will find plenty.

Why visit Anatolia?

If you are looking for a region with outstanding history over the last few millenia, excellent food, natural scenery with few, if any, Western tourists, south-eastern Turkey is the place for you. The history spans a few millenia with Hittites, Frygians, Parthans, Greeks, Romans, Crusaders and Ottomans all making their mark in religion, culture, cities and food. In south-eastern Turkey you can actually see the remaining of their civilizations within a few hours drive from each other. All without crossing any borders in a stable and safe environment with relaxed visa requirements. In addition, the flight/coach/bus/minibus transportation is excellent. There is a broad spectrum of accommodations for any budget. Food is varying and outstanding. There are few foreign tourists, and people are nice to you.

No masses of Western tourists or tours are creating two outstanding effects.

(1) Anatolia is inexpensive

Firstly, the area is inexpensive and great value. You can find a dorm bed for $10 or less, and a quality 3* hotel room for $20, which would easily be at least twice the cost in western Turkey. This is still a region where there is no double-tier pricing system for tourists. You will not be charged five / thirty times the local rate (hello Indonesia park entry tickets). There are also few venues geared towards the Western guests with the usual tourist traps. A glass of excellent refreshing limonata in Sanliurfa perfect to quench your thirst will still cost you $0.15 regardless if you are a tourist and easily recognizable as one.

(2) Not over-commercialized yet

Secondly, most of the time you will be treated in a “normal” way and not as a potential source of overcharged prices. It seems that most people will want to talk to you because of the genuine interest in this random Western tourist, who ventured off-the-beaten track to visit their city. Because there are few foreign tourists, especially after the pandemic, you will be appreciated that you came to southern Turkey. You will be invited to tens glasses of tea with the customary questions:

  • “do you like Turkey?”
  • “do you like <insert the current city here>?”
  • “what do you like in <insert the current city here>?”
  • or, the slightly sensitive one, “is our food better than in <insert the next major city>?”.

And the weird thing is that this will be in many cities there, not just one. Of course, there will be differences but, in general, a breath of fresh air after the standard heavily commercialized tourist heavens.

Please go and visit. And please go and visit now. Before the waves of the Western tourists descend.

When to visit Anatolia?

The climate in south-eastern Turkey is chilly winters and scorching hot summers. The best time is mid-April to mid-June and late September to early November.

Guide to Turkey: Safety

I have not had any uncomfortable encounters, even though I was frequently walking late at night. I have not witnessed any attempted thefts or any aggression on the streets.

Guide to Turkey: Visas

Tourists from the EU, United Kingdom, Argentina, Brazil, Colombia, and many others are “exempted from visa up to 90 days in any 180-day period”. Citizens of the United States, Australia, People’s Republic of China do need a visa.

A comprehensive country list with the corresponding visa requirements is attached in this website of the Turkish Ministry for Foreign Affairs:

https://www.mfa.gov.tr/visa-information-for-foreigners.en.mfa

A link to the evisa website is attached below. The evisa application is relatively straightforward, with three steps (application, payment, visa download), credit card payment is enabled. You will receive the visa emailed to your address.

https://www.evisa.gov.tr/

Guide to Turkey: Get In

All major cities in Anatolia have good transportation links:

(1) Fly

Turkish Airlines, Pegasus Airlines, Corendon Airlines and SunExpress are the major airlines in Turkey. Turkish Airlines is a more premium offering with the remaining more similar to Southwest, Spirit and Frontier in the U.S. or Ryanair in Europe.

Major cities have their own regional airports differing in the distance to city center. The transportation choices to the city center are usually (a) Havas airport bus, (b) shuttle bus, (c) taxi (unfortunately, no subway or train connections). Please find the detailed information in the corresponding city sections.

(2) Coach / Bus

Turkey has a well-developed long-distance bus / coach system. Especially on the longer-distance connections, buses / coaches are modern Mercedes / etc. vehicles with air conditioning, wifi and a stewart serving tea (unlikely on Greyhound, National Express or Megabus!). Instead of the 2+2 seat arrangement prevalent on the U.S. and European buses, many buses have a 2+1 setup.

The long-distance coach bus system is run not by one centralized company, but many local enterprises competing on overlapping routes. Some long-distance coach stations are conveniently located in the city center (e.g., Denizli), but many are miles away (e.g., Sanliurfa, Diyarbakir), and you have to take a minibus (e.g., Diyarbakir, Mardin) or a city bus (e.g., Sanliurfa) for approximately $0.30 one way.

The individual coach companies are hub-based (e.g., Mardin Seyahat, Oz Diyarbakir). Therefore, the coaches from the local company start on time with no delays as they do not connect from another city. After I had waited for a coach delayed by two hours at midnight in Kayseri, I have always tried to take a local hub coach just starting its ride.

There are differences among various coach companies in punctuality, comfort, wifi speed and seat arrangement (2+1 vs 2+2). The prices are generally similar, but higher for the higher-quality companies by up to 10-20%. I liked for example Kamil Koç or Ben Turizm.

Be prepared, Turkey is a vast country and the distances are long. In the end, I considered a 2-3 hour bus ride short, 4-5 medium and anything over 8 long. A special mention to some overnight buses with unstable air conditioning and blasting local music at 4am.

(3) Minibus (dolmus pronounced “DOL-moosh”)

An efficient system popular in the region of e.g., Mercedes minibuses, which depart when full. If your dolmus is not going where you want to go, there will be another one (or three), which will get you exactly where you want to be. It might be annoying that they are actively searching for additional passangers on the road and you might feel they are stopping every 60 seconds. On the other hand, they will drop you off at any point you wish (well, probably not exactly at a roundabout but almost anything else works).

(4) Train

Unfortunately, there is no well-developed train system in south-eastern Turkey. A similar setup as in e.g., Izmir in western Turkey, would be welcome.

Guide to Turkey: Get Around

(1) Walking

By far my preferred method of transportation in south-eastern Turkish cities. Suppousedly excedingly healthy, environmentally-friendly and relatively cheap. Probably most importantly, the best way to observe and meet the people and “soak the local atmosphere”. Those Mesopotamian cities are thousands of years old, so they are relatively compact and walkable. Also, many/most historical sites are within the old city limits or the existing city walls (e.g., Diyarbakir).

(2) Minibus (dolmus)

Same logic as above, no prior reservation required. You might have to be a bit patient but a dolmus (or three) will get you to wherever you want to be. Even in the smallest village in Anatolia.

(3) Taxi

Available everywhere, most in the familiar yellow color. Always determine the approximate cost before (rome2rio.com a good start).

NEVER enter a taxi BEFORE agreeing on the total cost to your final destination. This includes your luggage. Do not let it be put into the trunk BEFORE you agreed on the price.

Negotiate / haggle if you think overpriced. This is expected, do not disappoint the drivers by accepting inflated prices. You will also do a disservice to the other tourists in the future.

South-eastern Turkey Itinerary (2 weeks)

Nemrut Dagi – Sanliurfa (Urfa as is commonly known) – Mardin – Diyarbakir – Gaziantep (Antep) – Hatay (Antakya / Antioch)

Day 1-2: Guide to Nemrut Dagi, Turkey (2022)

Day 3-5: Sanliurfa and Göbekli tepe (11,000 years old!)

Day 6-7: Mardin: ancient Silk Road town

Day 8-9: Diyarbakir

Day 10-12: Gaziantep (Zeugma mosaics and best food in Turkey)

Day 13-14: Hatay: kunefe desert and Greek mosaics

Sanliurfa and Göbekli tepe (11,000 years old!)

This guide to Sanliurfa (commonly called Urfa) and Göbekli tepe includes why visit, how to get there, where to stay, what to do, and where to eat, and where to go next.

Why to go to Sanliurfa and Göbekli tepe?

If you like to learn other cultures and religions, are interested in the Neolithic, Greek, Roman and Islamic history and monuments, are willing to try new exotic food, and be in the company of some of the nicest people in Turkey, then Sanliurfa is the place for you.

Birthplace of Abraham (Ibrahim in Arabic), which is a pilgrimage site in Islam. Closest city to Gőbeklitepe, a Neolithic excavation site which might be 11,000 years old (that would be older than the Eqyptian pyramids or Stonehenge in the U.K.). One of the best museums in Turkey preparing well for the Gőbeklitepe tour. An exquisitely-designed Balikligöl park with the impressive mosques. Delicious local food (e.g., refreshing limonata from the street hawkers, ciger / liver kebab, gargantuan sun-ripened watermelons, apricots and cherries for under $1 per kilo). Urfa people, who will invite you to cay / tea tens of times a day, even when you bought a limonata which is cheaper than tea served so, technically, a loss for the seller.

I went to Urfa to see the Göbekli tepe (who doesn’t want to one of the oldest human settlements in history as described by CNN?), but extended my stay for the city, its sites, food and people. In other words, an excellent destination. Sanliurfa is conservative: modest clothing for both men and women (no shorts) and there is no alcohol (at least officially) available.

A word of caution, Urfa gets VERY hot in the summer with the regular 40C+ (104F+) temperatures.

How to get to Sanliurfa and Göbekli tepe?

How to get to Sanliurfa?

Sanliurfa is well connected. You can travel to Diyarbakir, Mardin, Gaziantep every 15-30 minutes with many coaches to Istanbul and Ankara. Nevsehir (for Cappadoccia and Göreme) is available direct on Neveshir Seyahat or Cizre Nuh coach lines four times a day. From Kahta there are minibuses (dolmus) directly to Urfa or Siverek, and then taking another dolmus to Urfa.

Unfortunately, the main long-distance bus station (“otogar”) is located in the new city part of Urfa, and getting to the city buses is not well signed. When arriving on a long-distance coach, you will probably come to the arrival lower level. Please take the escalator up to the upper-level departures and exit the station through the main doors. You will see a large parking with many yellow taxis, which you want to cross to the other side and climb the stairs (similar to many other passengers). You will get to the road with a bus stop immediately to your right.

Unfortunately, this is the wrong bus stop (as I might have learned) going further to the new city and all the high-rise residential buildings. You want to cross the road to the bus stop on the other side, which will take you to the city center. There are many buses going there including bus 35, please ask the driver for “Balikligöl”, which is located in the city center. You might arrive at the city bus station, which is approximately 20 minutes away (walking distance) from the city center and 30 minutes from the historic Balikligöl park. Alternatively, you can take another city bus to your hotel or another destination. As of September 2022, the city bus ticket was TRY5 ($0.30). The city buses accept credit cards and the Urfa card, which is a city transportation card.

How to get to Göbekli tepe?

Taking a public bus is by far the best option. Otherwise you would have to negotiate with a taxi driver to take you there, wait for 1-2 hours (or whatever time you want to spend there), and the ride back. I was quoted the initial prices of $50 when I gave up on the taxi.

The public bus to Göbekli tepe departs from the Sanliurfa Archeological museum. If you are facing the museum main entrance, the stop is in on the other side of the building to your right.

The bus departs from this stop at 09:45, 12:45 and 15:45.

It waits at Göbekli tepe for 2 hours and returns from the site at 12:00, 15:00 and 17:30.

Effectively, you have 2 hours for the small museum, visitor center and the site itself. Given the excavation site is small, it is sufficient.

Do NOT be late for your departure, otherwise you will have to wait another 2.5-3 hours. There are no taxis waiting at the archeological site.

Where to stay in Sanliurfa?

Given many Turkish tourists, Sanliurfa has many hotels across the price spectrum. The budget choice popular with the Western backpackers is the Ugur Hotel located on the main road next to the Harran hotel (a large venue with the wedding business booming on weekends). It has single/double/triple rooms with shared and private bathrooms with high ceilings and air conditioning. The owner, Mr Mustafa, is fluent in English and will help with ANY question related to the transportation, sites, local restaurants, etc. There is a lovely terrace where guests tend to congregate, sip tea and share stories in the evenings, a positive vibe always present.

What to do in Sanliurfa?

Where to start, where to start?

(1) Guide to Sanliurfa: Göbekli tepe

https://muze.gov.tr/muze-detay?sectionId=SGT01&distId=SGT

Most Western tourists (including truly yours) are coming to Sanliurfa, because of the newly-discovered (1994) Göbekli tepe archeological site. It is a full attraction including the Göbekli tepe visitor center and the archeological site covered by an interesting canopy offering well-appreciated sun protection. In addition, there is excellent exhibition in the Sanliurfa museum 15 minutes from city center, the bazaar and Balikligöl. The site is one of many in south-eastern Turkey, but has been extensively developed and marketed.

It has not been used as a settlement but served as a temple. Located on the top of the mountain with expansive views, only a small part of the site has been excavated, and has been included in the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2018, which is relatively recent. The tourist numbers have been increasing but are probably still low in comparison with the expected volumes 3/5/10 years from now. Yes, there is a visitor center with the tourist coaches coming in but probably nothing to compare with in a few years time. In other words, if you are into history and the most recent discoveries (and who isn’t?), this might be the time to go there, before the site is completely full.

So what is the reason for this sudden explosion of interest? Göbekli tepe contains megaliths which weigh 7-10 tons, are approximately 18ft in height, and are located in small elliptical areas. Its reason for the recent fame is that the carbon dating determined their age at approximately 11,000-12,000 years, which is approximately 7,000 years older than Stonehenge in the U.K. In comparison, the Egyptian pyramids of Giza are relatively young at 4,500 years old. Göbekli tepe was abandoned at approximately 8,000 BC and has not been used for similar religious purposes.

Please do not skip the visitor center. For an additional TRY10 ($0.60), there is a small interesting exhibition with a video beamed onto the walls and floor depicting an artist’s impression of potential religious rites at the site. Good quality and hypnotic music is well worth the extra cost and a few minutes.

(2) Guide to Sanliurfa: Sanliurfa Archeological Museum

https://muze.gov.tr/muze-detay?sectionId=SUM02&distId=SUM

Probably the best preparation for Göbekli tepe is the Sanliurfa Archeological Museum located in the city center. For TRY40 ($2.40) you will visit an excellent museum, which was opened in 2015. Its design is similar to the other outstanding museums in Gaziantep (Zeugma mosaics) or Hatay. All are a new wave of modern, expansive, multi-sensory museums in Turkey with artistic touches and excellent air-conditioning (appreciated in June!).

Some of the exhibits are impressive and well-displayed for maximum surprise effect such as the Göbekli man. He will be starting at you intently when you enter his dark room.

A recreation of the main Göbekli tepe area is excellent. Arrive at the museum opening time of 8:00AM, and you might be there all by yourself.

After the prehistoric exhibits you will flow with time and see the Assyrian, Babylonian and Hittite, and Roman artifacts. For some Western tourists, those non-Greek and non-Roman might be very interesting and pretty exotic, few similar items in the museums in Paris, London or New York.

In terms of the order, I would suggest starting with the museum, which will make the following visit to Göbekli tepe much more informative and enjoyable. When in Göbekli tepe, please do not skip the visitor center. Most tour groups do, so you will be able to enjoy it almost by yourself.

(3) Guide to Sanliurfa: Mosaics Museum

There is also an impressive mosaic museum next to the Sanliurfa Archeological Museum. During the same day you can use the Archeological Museum’s ticket to gain free entry to the Mosaic Museum. In other words, it is a free option five minutes away. The mosaics are impressive and well-laid in a huge building. You will be walking on modern glass walkways on top of the original mosaics. Many mosaics are in an excellent condition and have escaped the looters over the centuries. They are a great introduction into the Roman and Byzantine mosaics with the Gaziantep’s Zeugma and Hatay museum on par with Bardo in Tunisia.

(4) Guide to Sanliurfa: Balikligöl Park

No guide to Sanliurfa would be complete without the Balikligöl Park. A major pilgrimage site in Islam as the birthplace of prophet Abraham (Ibrahim). It is located in an impressive mosque with the cave well-lit and behind a protective glass. There is water for purification when entering this religious site.

There are a few open-air cafes with comfortable sofas and chairs under the trees around the small pond and fountain. A relief providing much-needed shade and breeze in the hot summer weather.

Balikligöl is a sacred lake with thousands of sacred carp and the corresponding religious stories. According to the Islamic and Jewish tradition, Abraham (Ibrahim) was born and raised in Urfa. He was the target of the wrath of king Nimrod when he declared a war on idolatry. The king sentenced Abraham to death and a huge pyre was constructed in the city center. When Abraham was thrown into the fire, miraculously the flames were transformed into water and the burning logs into fish.

Since then, the pool and its carp are considered sacred, and are strictly forbidden from being eaten. You will see many local tourists looking and taking pictures of the sacred fish and the delightful buildings around.

The mosques in the Balikligöl are impressive with the inside mosaics, external ablution wells and the paved courtyards. You might see the local weddings with their lavish traditional dresses.

Where to eat in Sanliurfa?

The Urfa bazaar is next to Balikligöl making it a convenient stop to try the local specialty ciger (liver) kebab. The liver kebab cubes are smaller in Urfa than in Diyarbakir, another contender for the best liver kebab in Anatolia.

No guide to Sanliurfa would be complete without mentioning the “kahvalti”. When in Urfa, please try the traditional breakfast (“kahvalti” pronounced “kah-vahl-tuh”). It is a sumptuous affair with usually well over 10 differerent components. Savoury such as various cheeses, olives and börek. Sweet such as honey, baklava or fruits. A hot dish such as menemen (excellent Turkish-style scrambled eggs with tomatoes, sausage, etc.). A breakfast for a king, a feast also for the eyes. Stunning when all those individual plates are being put in front of you in neat rows of delicacies. Coming back home to the usual bagel, muffin or oatmeal/porridge will be difficult. And the whole feast is a only few US dollars. It will be one of you most memorable meals in Turkey. There are many kahvalti restaurants next to the main road.

Lunch and dinner options include excellent Urfa lahmacun (thin-crust Turkish pizza) and Urfa kebab with the usual fresh vegetables and ayran (Turkish yoghurt). There seems to be a fierce competition among the Anatolian cities for the crown of the best kebab. The Urfa version is smaller but a bit more fatty and juicy, recommended.

Where to go next?

Within a few hours bus ride from Sanliurfa, Anatolia offers other interesting historical sites:

and outstanding large cities: