Tag: visit Turkey

How to Travel Around Turkey?

How to travel around Turkey?

I really like to travel around Turkey. Antalya, Bodrum and Marmaris offer an escape for the sun- and beach-deprived Europeans.

But the country has so much more to offer. Leave the gated entrances of those all-inclusive hotels, and a completely different world of tranquility, stunning scenery, impressive historical sites and excellent and varying food will emerge. Traveling around Turkey to those places is straightforward and safe. The road infrastructure is good, long-distance coaches / buses connect all major cities, many local airports with frequent internal (or international) flights are efficient. It seems the whole network of flights, trains, coaches, buses and minibuses has been planned and implemented well over the decades.

Moreover, the whole transportation system is working around the clock, with little or no overnight closures. You can catch a long-distance bus at 3am and there will be somebody in the bus office willing to help you. Absolutely amazing.

In addition, English is widely spoken even in the smallest bus station in eastern Turkey. And if there is any communication issue, another person (even working for a competing bus company) will gladly help. In my experience this even happened at 1am in small towns in eastern Turkey.

In short, traveling around Turkey is straightforward, efficient and safe. It should NOT prevent you from independent travel to ANY location, even the smallest village in Anatolia. It might take time, but there is a guaranteed chain of transportation options to get there.

So what are the transportation options for the independent traveler?

(1) Flights

Turkish Airlines, Pegasus Airlines, Corendon Airlines and SunExpress are the major airlines in Turkey. Turkish Airlines is a more premium offering with the remaining more similar to Southwest, Spirit and Frontier in the U.S. or Ryanair in Europe. Safety standard are high as the airlines are using the standard Airbus or Boeing planes. Airbus 321 and Boeing 737, the same workhorses of the 21st century aviation in the U.S. or western Europe, are in operation here as well.

Given the distances, traveling around Turkey on flights will save you tens of hours (or days) on long-distances buses. You would have to travel on buses for a few days (with breaks) from Mardin in Anatolia to Istanbul. If you do not want to see all those interim places, take the plane instead. Costwise, it will be the same or cheaper than the cost of those buses and accommodations on the way.

The major hubs for the international flights include Istanbul, Ankara, Antalya, Izmir, Bodrum and Dalaman. All larger cities also have their regional airports. Some are dedicated to a single city and close to the city center, whereas some others are shared between two cities (e.g., Hatay and Iskenderun in Anatolia).

Depending on its size, the transportation choices to the city center are usually all or some of the following: (a) Turkish Railways (TCDD) train, (b) local metro / subway (e.g., great in Izmir), (c) tramway (e.g., excellent one in Antalya), (d) public municipal bus (almost everywhere), (e) Havas airport bus (almost everywhere), (f) shuttle bus, or (g) taxi.

Public services to the airports (train, metro, public buses) have long operating hours, many working almost around the clock with a short 1-3 hour gap.

(2) Trains

Travel around Turkey on trains is a very good idea. The Turkish Railways (TCDD) is operating an excellent network of long-distance and regional trains. They are modern, comfortable, clean and punctual (no customary 5 minute-delay for long-distance buses: please be on time). There is also a seat reservation system on some of them, for at least some carriages. You will have a guaranteed seat, which will probably be more comfortable than a standard airline coach / economy seat.

Furthermore, they are well integrated into the airports (e.g., Izmir) and usually arrive in the city center. Excellent news as you will not need a connecting bus or taxi.

Unfortunately, few will offer wifi on board.

The train network in western Turkey is well developed. Unfortunately, the eastern part of the country (“the East Side”) does not have it. You will have to take other options such as flights or long-distance buses.

(3) Metro / subway

Together with trains, the preferred option (when it is available). Modern, largely clean, punctual, with clearly displayed route and strong air-conditioning, no wifi. Operating largely around the clock with a 1-3 hour maintenance break.

(4) Tramway

Together with trains and metro, another preferred option (when it is available). For example, the Antalya AntRay is a modern tramway connecting all major locations with a change available for other destinations. Comfortable, with plenty of luggage space, strong air-conditioning, large and clear station display, frequent departures, safe with numerous security guards at the stations.

(5) Long-distance Coach / Bus

Travel around Turkey on coaches / buses is an excellent idea. Turkey has a well-developed long-distance bus / coach system. Especially on the longer-distance connections, buses / coaches are modern Mercedes / Volvo / VDL vehicles. Air conditioning, wifi and a stewart serving tea are predominantly standard (unlikely on Greyhound, National Express or Megabus!). Instead of the 2+2 seat arrangement prevalent on the U.S. and European buses, many buses have a 2+1 setup.

Travel Around Turkey: Many Competing Local Bus Companies

The long-distance coach bus system is run not by one centralized company, but many local enterprises competing on overlapping routes. Some long-distance coach stations are conveniently located in the city center (e.g., Denizli), but many are miles away (e.g., Sanliurfa, Diyarbakir), and you have to take a minibus (e.g., Diyarbakir, Mardin) or a city bus (e.g., Sanliurfa) for approximately $0.30 one way.

The individual coach companies are hub-based (e.g., Mardin Seyahat, Oz Diyarbakir). Therefore, the coaches from the local company start on time with no delays as they do not connect from another city. After I waited for a coach delayed by two hours at midnight in Kayseri, I have always tried to take a local hub coach just starting its ride.

There are differences among various coach companies in punctuality, comfort, wifi speed and seat arrangement (2+1 vs 2+2). The prices are generally similar, but higher for the higher-quality companies by up to 10-20%. I liked for example Kamil Koç or Ben Turizm.

The bus stations (“otogar” will become one of your first words in Turkish) are usually excellent. Modern, safe, well signed, usually operating 24/7, good air-conditioning. Many and frequent local bus connections, and with clean bathrooms (usually a low price of $0.10-0.30 applies).

How to travel around Turkey: Kayseri otogar at 2am
Kayseri otogar at 2am

Be prepared, Turkey is a vast country and the distances are long. Travel around Turkey takes time. In the end, I considered a 2-3 hour bus ride short, 4-5 medium and anything over 8 long. A special mention to some overnight buses with unstable air conditioning and blasting local music at 4am.

Finally, a longer coach ride is usually an excellent invitation for an interesting conversation with your neighbor(s). Everybody is stuck on this vehicle for hours, so why not make the journey shorter (and more pleasant) and talk to your fellow passengers? As a foreign tourist, you will be an interesting creature and many other riders will be interested in your views. Countless times you will hear the inevitable “Do you like Turkey?” / “Do you like <insert the destination>?” or “Do you like <enter the departure city>?”.

(6) Public (Municipal) Bus

Extensive network especially in larger cities. However, they usually take longer for the same destinations. Secondly, they are usually less comfortable than trains / metro / tramway. Overall, public buses are a good option if nothing else is available.

(7) Minibus (dolmus pronounced “DOL-moosh”)

Travel around Turkey cannot be complete the dolmus. An all-time favorite of millions of locals and tourists for short distances, low fares and a community spirit. Nothing binds more than a two-hour drive in the mountains on a bumpy road.

An efficient system popular in the region of e.g., Mercedes minibuses, which depart when full. It is similar to the other countries in the region (e.g., “marshrutka” in Central Asia). If your dolmus is not going where you want to go, there will be another one (or three), which will get you exactly where you want to be. It might be annoying that they are actively searching for additional passangers on the road and you might feel they are stopping every 60 seconds. On the other hand, they will drop you off at any point you wish (well, probably not exactly at a roundabout but almost anything else works).

How to travel from/to the airports?

If you are arriving in the Izmir airport, Izmir Airport – City Center, Izmir – Ephesus (2022) and Izmir – Pamukkale (2022) will help.

When you are arriving in the Antalya airport, please check Antalya Airport – City Center.

Antalya Airport – City Center

This guide describes how to get from the Antalya airport to Antalya’s city center.

Antalya is one of the main cities and transportation hubs in southern Turkey. It is the second-largest airport handling 35 million passengers per year, and is located 10kms from the city center. The airport is efficient in handling this volume, most of which is going to the (all-inclusive) hotels on the Mediterranean coast. Their transportation is usually organized by the tour companies, which have tens of buses in the parking lot next to the airport.

However, for the independent tourist, there are efficient and inexpensive ways to get to the city center in comfortable conditions.

Antalya airport – city center

(1) AntRay tramway (highly recommended)

Modern, excellent air-conditioning, spacious to accommodate bags, safe and punctual carriages connect the airport with the city center. In the city center you can change to the other tram line serving, for example, the excellent Antalya Archeological Museum (“Müze”).

The first tramway stop is opposite Terminal 2 (international terminal) and 1 min walking away from the terminal. You will not be able to miss its elevated white structure (similar to those in JFK, Chicago O’Hare or London Gatwick). AntRay is operating 6:00am – midnight and is departing every 10-20 minutes. Depending on your destination, it will take approximately 30 minutes to the city center. The Antalya tramway connects the airport, city center, bus station (“otogar”) and other useful destinations.

There are two ways to purchase a ticket: (1) purchase an Antalya metro card (antalyakart) at the ticket booth just in front of the entry turnstiles, or (2) use your credit card. If buying a single ticket, (2) is easier. If buying a longer-term or several tickets at once, (1) is the better option. Buying a metro card is straightforward with an English option, other passengers will usually gladly help, if requested.

Antalyakart machine
How to purchase Antalyakart

(2) Municipal bus

Bus #600 will take longer (approximately an hour) and is less comfortable than the tramway.

(3) Havas airport bus

Havas offers the airport bus connections all over Turkey. Depending on your destination, it will probably take longer than the tramway but will be more comfortable (and expensive) than the #600 bus.

(4) Taxis

All taxis are expected to be metered, but for more distant destinations (e.g., Alanya, Side) prices are usually set in euros or dollars with a price list available.

The travel time from the airport to city center by taxi in normal conditions (no large traffic jams) should take approximately 20 minutes and cost $6-10. There is no special night or weekend fare surcharge.

Other airport to city center guides:

(1) Izmir airport – Izmir city center: Izmir Airport – City Center

(2) Izmir airport – Ephesus: Izmir Airport – Ephesus)

Ephesus Visit – Top Tips

Top tips to visit Ephesus in a more efficient, private and pleasant way. Ephesus (Efes) is one of the major tourist attractions in Turkey. The Celsius library has been extensively used in the Turkey tourist advertisements and you have probably already seen it countless times. Unfortunately, Ephesus is flooded with tourists. These tips will make your visit to this top top site easier, faster and more enjoable.

This guide includes general planning tips, how to get to Ephesus from Izmir, and where to go next.

Ephesus Visit – General Planning Tips

(1) Arrive early at 8am or late at 4pm

The bottom line is that Ephesus is one of the top tourist attractions with literally rows of tour buses arriving almost continuously at the site. During the peak times the tours are literally bumping into one another, and you will hear several languages at the same spot.

Secondly, please bear in mind that the area is largely exposed to the relentless summer sun with little shade and temperatures regularly reaching 40C (104F) in the summer. For those reasons, it pays to time your visit and arrive at the gate opening time of 8:00am or in the afternoon around 4:00pm (the site closes at 6:30pm in the summer). The morning is better as the stones have not heated up after a full day of strong sunlight.

2-3 hours is the average timeframe that most tourists (and tours) spend at Ephesus.

(2) Take water with you, no matter when you arrive

Beverages, hats, umbrellas and the usual tourist souvenirs might be purchased in front of the entry gate. Your friendly Turkish shop owners expect (and relish) to bargain, please do not disappoint them.

(3) Arrive at the lower entry gate next to the amphitheater

Three reasons:

(a) Most tours arrive at the upper gate and then descend as easier than climbing the hill,

(b) Also, your minibus (dolmus) from Selcuk will drop you off at the lower gate, and

(c) The main attractions (Celcius library, amphitheater) are closer to the lower gate. Therefore, if you arrive at 8am you will be there by 8:05am and will have them largely to yourself. The library is more popular than the amphitheater, so pass the theater first and reach the library. You will probably be the first (or one of the first 5 tourists) in front of the celebrated Celsius library enjoying the tranquility and the unobstructed photos. After the library, backtrack to the amphitheater, which will also offer some shade in the morning.

(4) Purchase additional ticket for the Terrace Houses

Two reasons:

(a) the excavated residential houses and especially the mosaics and frescos are interesting, and

(b) the area is shaded with a large canopy so a (brief) respite from the sun.

(5) Do not miss the Roman lavatory.

A unique site not available in many other famous Roman venues. The Romans had clearly a different approach to the restroom privacy.

(6) Download an audio Ephesus tour

Download it before the visit as no wifi at the site. There are many available and some are free of charge. Your choice might be more informative than the audio guide available at the entrance gate.

Izmir – Ephesus Transportation

The most convenient way to get to Ephesus from Izmir is to take the TCDD train to Selcuk. Then take a minibus (dolmus) from the Selcuk bus station in city center to Ephesus archeological site.

TCDD Train: Izmir – Ephesus.

  • The train to Selcuk takes 90 minutes from Izmir Basmane railway station ($1.35), or 60 minutes from the Izmir airport ($1.20). The dolmus from the Selcuk bus station to Ephesus ($0.60) takes 10 minutes depending on traffic.
    • This train departs from the Basmane railway station in the Izmir city center with the final destination of Denizli.
    • The Izmir Basmane rail station – Selcuk / Denizli departures: 07:10, 10:45, 12:30, 14:30, 16:45, 18:00, 23:05.
    • You can also catch the same train at the Izmir airport (“Izmir Adnan Menderes Havalimani”), so you do not have to go to the Izmir city center and can avoid a detour. Basmane – Izmir airport takes approximately 25 minutes.
    • The Izmir airport – Selcuk / Denizli departures: 07:32, 11:08, 12:56, 14:56, 17:09, 18:23, 23:34.
    • Modern train, air conditioning working, no wifi, punctual, snacks (simit, ayran) offered at fair prices ($0.30 each).
    • The train station is located in the city center of Selcuk, 10 minutes walking distance from the Selcuk bus station (“otogar”).

Dolmus: Selcuk bus station – Ephesus

  • The minibus (dolmus) departs from the Selcuk bus station (otogar) in the city center. It takes 10 minutes depending on traffic, for $0.60 one way.
    • The minibus is departing from the first bay on the left-hand side in front of the station building. First bus at 07:00am, leaving on time (and not waiting for other passengers to fill up). Depending on the season, departures every 20-30 minutes. If in doubt, please ask any driver from another bus and they will point you to the right spot.
    • You will get off at the parking lot in front of the lower entrance gate, 3-5 minutes walking distance to the Celsius library and the amphitheater.
    • On the way back to Selcuk, the minibus will stop at exactly the same spot.

Where to Go Next

If landing at the Izmir airport, this guide to Izmir airport – Ephesus will help with the transportation options, prices and timetables (Izmir Airport – Ephesus).

If you are interested in Ephesus, you might also enjoy other stunning historical sites in Turkey, which I had found excellent:

Nemrut Dagi – a Greek monument on a mountain top with spectacular views (Nemrut Dagi: Greek ruins in spectacular scenery)

Göbekli tepe – allegedly the oldest human temple at 11,000 years, easily beating the Egyptian pyramids at 4,500 years or Stonehedge in the U.K. at 7,000 years (Sanliurfa and Göbekli tepe (11,000 years old!))

Finally, I also highly recommend visiting south-eastern Turkey (Anatolia). Historic sites, impressive cities, excellent food, friendly people and few foreign tourists. One of the my most memorable trips.

(Guide to Southern Turkey (Anatolia): Why Visit / Itinerary)

Hatay: kunefe desert and Greek mosaics

Hatay is famous for its kunefe desert, excellent Greek mosaics at the local museum and the strong Arabic influence. The old town area is artfully renovated and converts to elegant cafes and restaurants, probably the heritage of its earlier French influence. This guide includes why visit, how to get there, where to stay, and where to go next.

Why to go to Hatay (Antakya)?

Hatay (or Antakya or Antioch) is three hours away (officially) from Gaziantep and is the capital of the southern province of Hatay. Until 1938 it was part of Syria and the French Mandate of Syria between 1920 and 1938.

Unfortunately, no French remnants like a fresh baguette or a croissant from your local boulangerie as in Vietnam (bánh mì!), but plenty of excellent Arabic and Arabic-infused food here. The city still has a strong Arabic presence with almost half of the population. There are also strong Christian (Greek Orthodox, Syriac) and Jewish influences.

On the history dimension, the Hatay Archeology Museum is another outstanding mosaic museum. If visited after Zeugma, you might be already mosaic museum-tired but it is still excellent. There are also some early Christianity sites: the church of Saint Peter is allegedly the first Christian church located on the hillside.

Finally, similar to the other south-eastern Anatolian cities, the food is excellent here but with an additional Arabic twist. Hatay is also the place famed for its sweet kunefe desert.

How to get there?

Similar to the other Anatolian cities, Hatay connects well to the other cities nearby, but with fewer connections. A word of caution though. When travelling from Gaziantep, there are effectively two local companies: Hatay Birlik and Yazar, with Hatay Birlik having all convenient departures between 06:00 and 08:00, which might be the preferred travel time during the summer heat.

Unfortunately, the Hatay Birlik coaches are not the regular Mercedes / Man / VDL ones, but old medium-size buses with 2+2 arrangement, no wifi and, more importantly, the air-conditioning not working (at least on my trip). In addition, Hatay Birlik is not taking the highway, but the parallel slower roads through the villages and towns to collect all passengers on the way.

And all this at 40km/h average speed, which I initially thought was the top velocity of our distinguished vehicle. Therefore, the trip will be long, cramped with standing passengers, no wifi or air-conditioning with open ceiling hatches blowing your head away. The ride is scheduled to be 3 hours and 35 minutes, but you will be lucky if you arrive in less than 4 hours and 30 minutes (I was not).

It probably pays to be philosophical on the way that this is the price to get to Hatay and be one of the few tourists there. There are other longer-distance companies (e.g., Öz Diyarbakir at 00:30, 14:30 and 15:45) but less frequent and they might be delayed.

On the positive side, Hatay Birlik will stop at the bus station in the city center, 10-15 minutes walking distance from the hotels, restaurants and cafes. The city center is compact and walkable, unless going to the archeology museum, there is no need for a taxi.

Where to stay in Hatay?

Hatay has a range of nice hotels artfully renovated all in the compact city center. I stayed at the Antik Beyazit Hotel, which I highly recommend. An old Ottoman hotel exquisitely renovated with high ceilings outstanding in the hot weather and a large room with nice furniture. Strong air-conditioning, powerful water flow and stable wifi. A comfortable bed, a sumptuous breakfast buffet, and a helpful and nice reception staff. Exceeded my expectations.

Surprisingly, Hatay is full of atmospheric cafes and restaurants located in the compact city center next to the river. Especially at night when they are well-lit, the area is perfect (and safe) to stroll around and watch the locals. As Hatay is further west, there is a wide variety of alcoholic beverages available, which was not the case in more conservative Sanliurfa.

The early Christian church of St Peter (or St Pierre as on the signs) is allegedly the first Christian temple located on the hillside on the road to the Hatay archeological museum.

Where to go next?

Within a few hours bus ride from Hatay, Anatolia offers other interesting historical sites:

and outstanding large cities:

For the overall guide to southern Turkey: Guide to Southern Turkey (Anatolia): Why Visit / Itinerary

Mardin: ancient Silk Road town

This guide to Mardin includes why to go there, how to get there, where to stay, what to do, where to eat and where to go next.

Why go to Mardin?

Mardin is another historical city in south-eastern Anatolia. It is located on a hill with the original fortress at the top with the old heavily-decorated houses cascading down. Mardin was a wealthy stop on the Silk Road and the resulting prosperity created the intricate buildings well-preserved to this day. Mardin was also the capital of the Turkic Artuqid dynasty between the 12th and 15th centuries, during which many of the Islamic heritage (mosques and madrasah, the religious schools) were constructed. The city has been also the center of the Syriac people with the Syriac Christian Orthodoxy being estabished in 431AD. Given its uniqueness, Mardin is a magnet for the Turkish tourists, also coming on tours, from Istanbul and Ankara. The views towards Mesopotamia and Syria are impressive from one of the Mardin cafes or restaurants, especially at sunset.

How to get there?

Mardin is well connected with a modern coach station (“otogar”) in the new part of the city. There are coaches to Urfa every 30-60 minutes, Diyarbakir, Istanbul and Ankara. The local companies include Mardin Seyahat and Dilmenler Mardin. Whereas Mardin Seyahat was fine, Dilmenler Mardin is not recommended (the wifi was not working, the bus was not clean and was delayed).

From the otogar to the old city (“eski Mardin”) the transportion options include a taxi or a city minibus. The modern minibus will take approximately 15 minutes to the old city and costs $0.30. Walking there is not recommended during the hot weather and climbing the hill road.

Where to stay in Mardin?

The first decision is if to stay in the old town or the new city (“Yenişehir”) close to the bus station. The new city will be cheaper and in a modern accommodation, but will require a minibus ride. The old city will be more atmospheric but more expensive. There are many hotels in Mardin catering to the tourist trade.

What to do there?

Mardin is a tourist town with all main sites in the old city along the main street (“1. Cadde” or “Cumhuriyet Caddesi”). They include the Church of the Forties (“Kirklar Kilisesi”), Zinciriye Medresesi (an old Islamic religious school), Citadel (“Kale”) and the Great Mosque. Please respect the etiquette when visiting mosques by taking off your shoes and placing them on the shelves, and avoid visiting during the prayer times.

The main attraction of Mardin is to see the important buildings, walk the maze of old houses uphill, sip coffee in one of the cafes with positive vibes, and have a good meal. In short, have a good time at a leisurly pace. No mountains to ascend or no big museums required to attend. Take it easy and enjoy.

There are some excellent cafes up the hill with few tour groups making the climb. While sipping dibek or menengic (the local coffee specialties), look at the flats of Mesopotamia, as if they extended till the end of the world.

There is also a potential one-day trip to another old town, Midyat. Many Turkish TV movies (including the successful soap operas) have been made in Midyat. Similar to Mardin but on a flat surface, 40 minutes by minibus.

Where to eat in Mardin?

There is a huge variety of restaurants along the main road. Two places were excellent. A tiny falafel place “Falafel Ammo Hamza” serving probably the best falafel in town by nice Syrian brothers. It is located at the beginning of the main road, easy to miss as so small. The falafel is not fatty but crispy and made to order. Sublime.

“Markulo Fasil” is a regular restaurant with a nice terrace overlooking the main street. The mezze are excellent, there is frequently live music, nice owners and staff in an exquisitely-renovated building will make it a memorable meal.

Finally, the local Syriac orthodox Christian population has been producing wine for centuries here. Probably a unique opportunity to try the Assyrian flavor and compare with the usual California, French, Australian, Italian and other wines.

Where to go next?

Within a few hours bus ride from Mardin, Anatolia offers other interesting historical sites:

and outstanding large cities: