Pamukkale is another item on the bucket list for many tourists in Turkey. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and heavily promoted. This article describes the Izmir – Pamukkale transportation.
Pamukkale is located 1 hour drive from Denizli, the closest large town. Therefore, the journey for tourists starting in Izmir will be broken down into two steps: (1) Izmir – Denizli, and (2) Denizli – Pamukkale.
(1) Izmir – Denizli
There are two main options: (a) fly or (b) take a train.
(1a) Flight: Izmir – Denizli
There are several daily connections with 1 stop, one-way ticket costs approximately EUR 80-120 depending how much in advance you purchase the ticket.
The total flight time of 3 hours. You would arrive at the Denizli airport with the required taxi to the city center.
(1b) Train: Izmir – Denizli
The alternative is to take a Turkish Airlines (TCDD) train from the Basmane station in Izmir city center to Denizli city center. The train takes 4.5-5 hours, which is comparable with the flight if we consider the required airport arrival of at least 75-90 minutes. The train is also less prone to the recent flight delays. The train is also significantly cheaper at TRY 73 as of September 2022 (EUR 4).
In addition, the train seats are wider with a more leg room and you can stand up and walk during the journey. The train is modern, comfortable, punctual and with strong air-conditioning.
The departure times from Izmir Basmane to Denizli are 07:10, 10:45, 12:30, 14:30, 16:45, 18:00, and 23:05.
I took the train and did not regret it. It departed and arrived on time, and was clean and more comfortable than a standard economy flight seat. When buying the ticket on the TCDD app, website or the TCDD office in advance, you will receive an assigned seat and a peace of mind.
In addition, it arrived at the main Denizli train station, which is located exactly in the city center and 5 minutes walking distance from the bus station. Regular dolmus (minibus) depart from here to Pamukkale.
(2) Denizli – Pamukkale
There are two options from the Denizli city center to Pamukkale: (a) dolmus (minibus) or (b) taxi. Of course, you could also take an organized tour from Denizli. However, given the short distance, many dolmus and ease of navigation at Pamukkale, probably not an attractive option.
(2a) Dolmus: Denizli – Pamukkale
Denizli transportation hub is well-designed. Both the train and the bus stations are in the city center and 5 minutes walking distance from each other.
The bus station has both the long-distance coaches and the dolmus minibuses. The dolmus to Pamukkale departs from the dolmus lower-ground level.
The Pamukkale dolmus departs every 20-30 minutes on the fixed schedule (and not waiting until it is full). It will take 1 hour to reach the springs. You will get off at the small square in Pamukkale town, 5 minutes away from the entrance to the Pamukkale area. On return to Denizli, you will catch the dolmus at exactly the same square (next to the hairdresser, opposite a small restaurant).
A one-way ticket in September 2022 is TRY 40 ($2.20) payable to the driver.
(2b) Taxi: Denizli – Pamukkale
Depending on the mood of the taxi driver, his evaluation of your payment ability and your negotiation skills, a one-way taxi to Pamukkale will be $15-20.
Izmir – Pamukkale recommendation
I recommend the Izmir-Denizli train and the Denizli-Pamukkale dolmus. Both journey legs were on time, comfortable, clean and with good air-conditioning.
I really like to travel around Turkey. Antalya, Bodrum and Marmaris offer an escape for the sun- and beach-deprived Europeans.
But the country has so much more to offer. Leave the gated entrances of those all-inclusive hotels, and a completely different world of tranquility, stunning scenery, impressive historical sites and excellent and varying food will emerge. Traveling around Turkey to those places is straightforward and safe. The road infrastructure is good, long-distance coaches / buses connect all major cities, many local airports with frequent internal (or international) flights are efficient. It seems the whole network of flights, trains, coaches, buses and minibuses has been planned and implemented well over the decades.
Moreover, the whole transportation system is working around the clock, with little or no overnight closures. You can catch a long-distance bus at 3am and there will be somebody in the bus office willing to help you. Absolutely amazing.
In addition, English is widely spoken even in the smallest bus station in eastern Turkey. And if there is any communication issue, another person (even working for a competing bus company) will gladly help. In my experience this even happened at 1am in small towns in eastern Turkey.
In short, traveling around Turkey is straightforward, efficient and safe. It should NOT prevent you from independent travel to ANY location, even the smallest village in Anatolia. It might take time, but there is a guaranteed chain of transportation options to get there.
So what are the transportation options for the independent traveler?
(1) Flights
Turkish Airlines, Pegasus Airlines, Corendon Airlines and SunExpress are the major airlines in Turkey. Turkish Airlines is a more premium offering with the remaining more similar to Southwest, Spirit and Frontier in the U.S. or Ryanair in Europe. Safety standard are high as the airlines are using the standard Airbus or Boeing planes. Airbus 321 and Boeing 737, the same workhorses of the 21st century aviation in the U.S. or western Europe, are in operation here as well.
Given the distances, traveling around Turkey on flights will save you tens of hours (or days) on long-distances buses. You would have to travel on buses for a few days (with breaks) from Mardin in Anatolia to Istanbul. If you do not want to see all those interim places, take the plane instead. Costwise, it will be the same or cheaper than the cost of those buses and accommodations on the way.
The major hubs for the international flights include Istanbul, Ankara, Antalya, Izmir, Bodrum and Dalaman. All larger cities also have their regional airports. Some are dedicated to a single city and close to the city center, whereas some others are shared between two cities (e.g., Hatay and Iskenderun in Anatolia).
Depending on its size, the transportation choices to the city center are usually all or some of the following: (a) Turkish Railways (TCDD) train, (b) local metro / subway (e.g., great in Izmir), (c) tramway (e.g., excellent one in Antalya), (d) public municipal bus (almost everywhere), (e) Havas airport bus (almost everywhere), (f) shuttle bus, or (g) taxi.
Public services to the airports (train, metro, public buses) have long operating hours, many working almost around the clock with a short 1-3 hour gap.
(2) Trains
Travel around Turkey on trains is a very good idea. The Turkish Railways (TCDD) is operating an excellent network of long-distance and regional trains. They are modern, comfortable, clean and punctual (no customary 5 minute-delay for long-distance buses: please be on time). There is also a seat reservation system on some of them, for at least some carriages. You will have a guaranteed seat, which will probably be more comfortable than a standard airline coach / economy seat.
Furthermore, they are well integrated into the airports (e.g., Izmir) and usually arrive in the city center. Excellent news as you will not need a connecting bus or taxi.
Unfortunately, few will offer wifi on board.
The train network in western Turkey is well developed. Unfortunately, the eastern part of the country (“the East Side”) does not have it. You will have to take other options such as flights or long-distance buses.
(3) Metro / subway
Together with trains, the preferred option (when it is available). Modern, largely clean, punctual, with clearly displayed route and strong air-conditioning, no wifi. Operating largely around the clock with a 1-3 hour maintenance break.
(4) Tramway
Together with trains and metro, another preferred option (when it is available). For example, the Antalya AntRay is a modern tramway connecting all major locations with a change available for other destinations. Comfortable, with plenty of luggage space, strong air-conditioning, large and clear station display, frequent departures, safe with numerous security guards at the stations.
(5) Long-distance Coach / Bus
Travel around Turkey on coaches / buses is an excellent idea. Turkey has a well-developed long-distance bus / coach system. Especially on the longer-distance connections, buses / coaches are modern Mercedes / Volvo / VDL vehicles. Air conditioning, wifi and a stewart serving tea are predominantly standard (unlikely on Greyhound, National Express or Megabus!). Instead of the 2+2 seat arrangement prevalent on the U.S. and European buses, many buses have a 2+1 setup.
Travel Around Turkey: Many Competing Local Bus Companies
The long-distance coach bus system is run not by one centralized company, but many local enterprises competing on overlapping routes. Some long-distance coach stations are conveniently located in the city center (e.g., Denizli), but many are miles away (e.g., Sanliurfa, Diyarbakir), and you have to take a minibus (e.g., Diyarbakir, Mardin) or a city bus (e.g., Sanliurfa) for approximately $0.30 one way.
The individual coach companies are hub-based (e.g., Mardin Seyahat, Oz Diyarbakir). Therefore, the coaches from the local company start on time with no delays as they do not connect from another city. After I waited for a coach delayed by two hours at midnight in Kayseri, I have always tried to take a local hub coach just starting its ride.
There are differences among various coach companies in punctuality, comfort, wifi speed and seat arrangement (2+1 vs 2+2). The prices are generally similar, but higher for the higher-quality companies by up to 10-20%. I liked for example Kamil Koç or Ben Turizm.
The bus stations (“otogar” will become one of your first words in Turkish) are usually excellent. Modern, safe, well signed, usually operating 24/7, good air-conditioning. Many and frequent local bus connections, and with clean bathrooms (usually a low price of $0.10-0.30 applies).
Kayseri otogar at 2am
Be prepared, Turkey is a vast country and the distances are long. Travel around Turkey takes time. In the end, I considered a 2-3 hour bus ride short, 4-5 medium and anything over 8 long. A special mention to some overnight buses with unstable air conditioning and blasting local music at 4am.
Finally, a longer coach ride is usually an excellent invitation for an interesting conversation with your neighbor(s). Everybody is stuck on this vehicle for hours, so why not make the journey shorter (and more pleasant) and talk to your fellow passengers? As a foreign tourist, you will be an interesting creature and many other riders will be interested in your views. Countless times you will hear the inevitable “Do you like Turkey?” / “Do you like <insert the destination>?” or “Do you like <enter the departure city>?”.
(6) Public (Municipal) Bus
Extensive network especially in larger cities. However, they usually take longer for the same destinations. Secondly, they are usually less comfortable than trains / metro / tramway. Overall, public buses are a good option if nothing else is available.
(7) Minibus (dolmus pronounced “DOL-moosh”)
Travel around Turkey cannot be complete the dolmus. An all-time favorite of millions of locals and tourists for short distances, low fares and a community spirit. Nothing binds more than a two-hour drive in the mountains on a bumpy road.
An efficient system popular in the region of e.g., Mercedes minibuses, which depart when full. It is similar to the other countries in the region (e.g., “marshrutka” in Central Asia). If your dolmus is not going where you want to go, there will be another one (or three), which will get you exactly where you want to be. It might be annoying that they are actively searching for additional passangers on the road and you might feel they are stopping every 60 seconds. On the other hand, they will drop you off at any point you wish (well, probably not exactly at a roundabout but almost anything else works).
The planners and architects of the Izmir airport (“Izmir Adnan Menderes Havalimani”) have done an excellent job. The airport is a great hub to travel north to the Izmir city center or south to Selcuk for Ephesus.
The Izmir airport is well designed and has an excellent transportation system to the Izmir city center. The main railway station in Izmir center is Basmane, which is located in the city center walking distance to the tourist hotels, the main bazaar and the sea. Alsancak with its higher-end hotels is a 15-30 minute walk away.
In addition, if going to Efes (Ephesus with its well-advertised Roman ruins), you do NOT have to travel to Izmir (as truly yours did), but can go from the airport directly to Selcuk (the closest town and the hub for Efes). In other words, you might save a day by visiting Efes directly and without making a detour to Izmir (an interesting but a detour nevertheless).
The airport is a transportation gem and has many options for any wallet and time preference. Walkable to all options below, no need for an airport shuttle (e.g., JFK, Heathrow), a taxi or city / minibus to connect. Well designed with clear signs, overall very efficient and largely on time.
Izmir Airport – Izmir City Center
When travelling to the Izmir city center, the options are metro, train, airport bus (Havas) or taxi.
In my opinion, if traveling to the Basmane area the TCDD train (Turkish Railway) is best if you can time it. The second best option, the Izmir metro. The third one, the Havas airport bus.
If traveling to Alsancak, the metro the best as you can go directly to the Alsancak metro station, and do not have to change and take the bus.
(1) Izmir metro (subway)
The metro station is inside the airport, exit the arrivals terminal, follow the signs, and buy a ticket (Izmir card) at the ticket booth. It can be pre-loaded with various amount of money, 2-3 rides a good initial amount, the Izmir card can also be used on the city buses. $1.50 one-way, takes 30 minutes. Modern carriages, air conditioning working well, largely clean, sometimes packed, watch your belongings.
The Izmir metro is departing from the airport 00:04 – 23:40, approximately every 15 minutes.
When travelling to the Basmane area, you will have to get off at Kemer and take a city bus to Basmane (5-10 minutes). Plenty of buses with the waiting time of a few minutes. When exiting the metro station, pass the guy selling hot mussels (seems he is always there), cross the road, the bus stop is on the right hand side. No major hassle but a transfer nevertheless.
The stations from the airport (“Havalimani”) in yellow to Kemer for Basmane. If you are traveling to Alsancak, you can get there directly without a bus transfer.
(2) TCDD (Turkish Railways) train
The train station is inside the airport, no need for a bus or taxi transfer. Incredibly convenient. Exit the airport building, follow the signs and take the escalator down. Simple snacks (simit and ayran) available on the train for a fair price ($0.30 each in September 2022). Modern train, clean, air-conditioning working well, no wifi, punctual.
The train takes 24 minutes to the main Basmane train station but, unfortunately, there are only a few departures daily. In my experience, those trains were on time, so no “usual Turkish coach 5 minutes delay”, please be on time.
One-way ticket approximately $1 available at the ticket booths (arrive at least 10 minutes before your departure time as there might / will be a long line. The line will be moving quickly, but still a long line, and you do not want to miss your train).
The TCDD train is more convenient than the Izmir metro if going to the Basmane area as there is no transfer required. The downside is the train is less frequent than the metro.
The Izmir airport – Izmir Basmane train departures as of September 2022: 06:34, 08:32, 10:10, 12:45, 15:23, 17:02, 20:46, 22:38.
(3) Havas bus
The usual Havas airport bus departing from the second lane outside the arrivals terminal. Approximately hourly, takes approximately 60 minutes (depending on traffic) to the Izmir city center with several stops, $3 one way.
The Havas bus is available 00:30 – 23:00 departing approximately every 30 minutes.
(4) Taxi
30 minutes depending on traffic, approximately $10 one way, significantly higher if pre-ordered with the welcome service (driver with your name waiting in the arrivals hall).
NEVER enter a taxi in the Izmir airport without agreeing TOTAL price to your final destination upfront. This should also include any baggage and no baggage fees. Otherwise, they might suddenly appear at the end of your ride).
(2) Where to go next?
If you are going to Ephesus next, this guide describes traveling from Izmir to Ephesus (Izmir Airport – Ephesus).
Also, Izmir is an excellent hub for Pegasus Airlines, the biggest budget airline in Turkey. Within a few hours flying time, Anatolia in the south-east of the country offers a different world from the touristy West Side of Turkey. Anatolia has some stunning historical sites.
This is a travel guide to Turkey based on the 2022 trip. Given the inflation in Turkey is 40-100% per year, the prices in the local currency (Turkish lira) are changing fast.
It is rare that one country, even as large as Turkey, can boast of so many advantages. Sunny and warm weather. Access to the Aegean, Mediterranean and Black Seas. World-class historical sites across the Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman and Assyrian cultures. Istanbul, a vibrant city spanning two continents. Cappadocia. Anatolia, the home of the countless empires. Excellent transportation. Amazing and varying food.
Turkey in Numbers
Population: 85 million
Capital: Ankara
Language: Turkish (English and German widely spoken in tourist areas)
Electricity: standard European 220V, standard European plugs
Covid-19 Restrictions
As of November 2022, none. No testing required prior to departure or after arrival, no vaccination certificates have to be presented, no quarantine.
Visas
EU, UK, Argentina, Brazil, Colombia and many others exempt. US, Australia and China require a visa, e-visa efficient and fast.
When to Visit
March to November is best. The north will be colder, more cloudy, and with more rain and sporadic snow.
Safety
Overall, a safe country.
Solo women travellers might encounter unwelcome advances, especially in the touristy areas (e.g., around the all-inclusive hotels in Antalya).
Tipping culture
Tipping (or backsheesh or bribes) were routinely required across all society levels during the Ottoman Empire. You might witness some of those remnants still in existence in Turkey in the twenty first century.
Some staff in some of the all-inclusive establishments in the western side of Turkey might be pretty aggressive when no tips are handed over.
Alternatively, you might be openly ignored at the bar, if you do not show your monetary gratitude immediately. Even when you only drink tea and no alcoholic beverages.
Service
In addition, given millions of tourists visiting Antalya and Bodrum every year, on average the tourist industry in the south-east Asia exhibits higher politeness levels than those in the south-western part of Turkey.
Things are significantly better in the south-eastern side, where there are few foreign tourists and no all-inclusive hotels. Secondly, the culture is more conservative with stronger traditional hospitality.
Top 5 Things in Turkey
(1) Visit south-eastern Turkey (Anatolia)which has it all
(2) Hike the valleys in Göreme (Cappadocia)
(3) Visit Ephesuslocated next to Izmir: a stunning Roman archeological site
(4) Hike one of many paths in Antalya
(5) Spend an (extended) weekend in Istanbul
Itinerary
This nature and history 3-4 week route combines some of the highlights of Turkey:
(1) Cappadocia (Göreme)
(2) the historical places (Nemrut Dagi, Midyat, Mardin, Sanliurfa) and large cities (Gaziantep, Hatay) in the south east
(3) some bucket list items (Ephesus, Pamukkale) on the west side
If you have less time, you can do only one or two sections of those combined with a short stay in Istanbul, Izmir or Bodrum. If you are short of time, fly out after Sanliurfa or Gaziantep instead of Hatay.
3-4 week itinerary: Cappadocia and historical sites in east and west Turkey.
At the TCDD (Turkish Railways) stations, beware of the long lines 15-30mins before your train departure. Come early or, even better, buy the ticket in advance on the TCDD app.
Unfortunately, no trains in the south-eastern Turkey.
You might be taking the Izmir city-Izmir airport-Ephesus-Pamukkale train (yes, the same convenient train). Izmir – Ephesus (2022) and Izmir – Pamukkale (2022) have timetables and other logistics.
Accommodation
Widely available across the whole spectrum from dorms to luxury at a lower price level than the comparable properties in Italy, Spain, Portugal or Greece.
There is an issue with booking.com in Turkey. It is NOT possible to make reservations once inside the country. Alternative local providers include etstur.com or the ets app, which also has additional properties not covered by booking. Alternatively, use a VPN.
Internet
Wifi widely available in hotels and hostels, speeds can vary. Working (including Zoom, etc.) is usually possible in most accommodations. It is usually free but some all-inclusive hotels in Antalya are charging outrageous fees per day or week. Daily fees of EUR 10 per day have been reported.
Wifi might be available in some public places (e.g., airports) but might require a text confirmation with a code sent to your phone. Caution: Some venues accept only a Turkish phone number.
Getting a local SIM is quick with Turkcell offering the broadest coverage. Packages vary across providers, shop around for the current best offer.
Overall Tips
(1) Bring cash. USD and EUR have the best exchange rates. Many private exchange offices, no huge exchange rate differences among them (exception: airports). The process is straightforward. Go to cash teller, who will change the money on the spot. No special tourist forms to fill. Cash is predominantly used with credit cards more popular at the high-end hotels.
(2) Don’t change all in one go. The inflation in Turkey is exorbitant with some official and unofficial estimates of 40-100% per year. It is possible that during your two-week stay the Turkish lira will plunge again.
During our 4 week trip, the local currency depreciated by about 10% against the USD or EUR. In other words, your stay becomes 10% cheaper across hotels, restaurants and shops.
Costs
Excellent price-value country. Similar hotels, restaurants or transport in Greece, Cyprus, Spain or Portugal are easily 2-3 times more expensive. A typical hostel or homestay costs around $10 with mid-range hotels $15-20. A local meal will be $1-2 and $5-10 in mid-range restaurants. A city minibus (“dolmus”) will be $0.30-0.50 with longer distances $2-3. Long-distance coaches or buses are $5-10.
Turkey Overall Rating
Recommended, especially Cappadocia and Anatolia.
Turkey is frequently equalized with the all-inclusive hotels. It is somewhat true. Their development has been a phenomenal success for the country. However, leave them to the millions of sun-starved Europeans.
So ake a bus or fly and you will find countless tranquil and stunning places with few or no foreign tourists.
But Turkey is a bit like India (of the “Incredible India” fame). Yes, it is interesting, but you will want a break and visit other countries before you return.
This guide describes how to get from the Antalya airport to Antalya’s city center.
Antalya is one of the main cities and transportation hubs in southern Turkey. It is the second-largest airport handling 35 million passengers per year, and is located 10kms from the city center. The airport is efficient in handling this volume, most of which is going to the (all-inclusive) hotels on the Mediterranean coast. Their transportation is usually organized by the tour companies, which have tens of buses in the parking lot next to the airport.
However, for the independent tourist, there are efficient and inexpensive ways to get to the city center in comfortable conditions.
Antalya airport – city center
(1) AntRay tramway (highly recommended)
Modern, excellent air-conditioning, spacious to accommodate bags, safe and punctual carriages connect the airport with the city center. In the city center you can change to the other tram line serving, for example, the excellent Antalya Archeological Museum (“Müze”).
The first tramway stop is opposite Terminal 2 (international terminal) and 1 min walking away from the terminal. You will not be able to miss its elevated white structure (similar to those in JFK, Chicago O’Hare or London Gatwick). AntRay is operating 6:00am – midnight and is departing every 10-20 minutes. Depending on your destination, it will take approximately 30 minutes to the city center. The Antalya tramway connects the airport, city center, bus station (“otogar”) and other useful destinations.
There are two ways to purchase a ticket: (1) purchase an Antalya metro card (antalyakart) at the ticket booth just in front of the entry turnstiles, or (2) use your credit card. If buying a single ticket, (2) is easier. If buying a longer-term or several tickets at once, (1) is the better option. Buying a metro card is straightforward with an English option, other passengers will usually gladly help, if requested.
(2) Municipal bus
Bus #600 will take longer (approximately an hour) and is less comfortable than the tramway.
(3) Havas airport bus
Havas offers the airport bus connections all over Turkey. Depending on your destination, it will probably take longer than the tramway but will be more comfortable (and expensive) than the #600 bus.
(4) Taxis
All taxis are expected to be metered, but for more distant destinations (e.g., Alanya, Side) prices are usually set in euros or dollars with a price list available.
The travel time from the airport to city center by taxi in normal conditions (no large traffic jams) should take approximately 20 minutes and cost $6-10. There is no special night or weekend fare surcharge.
