Category: Turkey

Guide to independent travel to Turkey: why go, when to go, where to go / itinerary, how to get there, where to stay, where to eat, safety.

Ephesus Visit – Top Tips

Top tips to visit Ephesus in a more efficient, private and pleasant way. Ephesus (Efes) is one of the major tourist attractions in Turkey. The Celsius library has been extensively used in the Turkey tourist advertisements and you have probably already seen it countless times. Unfortunately, Ephesus is flooded with tourists. These tips will make your visit to this top top site easier, faster and more enjoable.

This guide includes general planning tips, how to get to Ephesus from Izmir, and where to go next.

Ephesus Visit – General Planning Tips

(1) Arrive early at 8am or late at 4pm

The bottom line is that Ephesus is one of the top tourist attractions with literally rows of tour buses arriving almost continuously at the site. During the peak times the tours are literally bumping into one another, and you will hear several languages at the same spot.

Secondly, please bear in mind that the area is largely exposed to the relentless summer sun with little shade and temperatures regularly reaching 40C (104F) in the summer. For those reasons, it pays to time your visit and arrive at the gate opening time of 8:00am or in the afternoon around 4:00pm (the site closes at 6:30pm in the summer). The morning is better as the stones have not heated up after a full day of strong sunlight.

2-3 hours is the average timeframe that most tourists (and tours) spend at Ephesus.

(2) Take water with you, no matter when you arrive

Beverages, hats, umbrellas and the usual tourist souvenirs might be purchased in front of the entry gate. Your friendly Turkish shop owners expect (and relish) to bargain, please do not disappoint them.

(3) Arrive at the lower entry gate next to the amphitheater

Three reasons:

(a) Most tours arrive at the upper gate and then descend as easier than climbing the hill,

(b) Also, your minibus (dolmus) from Selcuk will drop you off at the lower gate, and

(c) The main attractions (Celcius library, amphitheater) are closer to the lower gate. Therefore, if you arrive at 8am you will be there by 8:05am and will have them largely to yourself. The library is more popular than the amphitheater, so pass the theater first and reach the library. You will probably be the first (or one of the first 5 tourists) in front of the celebrated Celsius library enjoying the tranquility and the unobstructed photos. After the library, backtrack to the amphitheater, which will also offer some shade in the morning.

(4) Purchase additional ticket for the Terrace Houses

Two reasons:

(a) the excavated residential houses and especially the mosaics and frescos are interesting, and

(b) the area is shaded with a large canopy so a (brief) respite from the sun.

(5) Do not miss the Roman lavatory.

A unique site not available in many other famous Roman venues. The Romans had clearly a different approach to the restroom privacy.

(6) Download an audio Ephesus tour

Download it before the visit as no wifi at the site. There are many available and some are free of charge. Your choice might be more informative than the audio guide available at the entrance gate.

Izmir – Ephesus Transportation

The most convenient way to get to Ephesus from Izmir is to take the TCDD train to Selcuk. Then take a minibus (dolmus) from the Selcuk bus station in city center to Ephesus archeological site.

TCDD Train: Izmir – Ephesus.

  • The train to Selcuk takes 90 minutes from Izmir Basmane railway station ($1.35), or 60 minutes from the Izmir airport ($1.20). The dolmus from the Selcuk bus station to Ephesus ($0.60) takes 10 minutes depending on traffic.
    • This train departs from the Basmane railway station in the Izmir city center with the final destination of Denizli.
    • The Izmir Basmane rail station – Selcuk / Denizli departures: 07:10, 10:45, 12:30, 14:30, 16:45, 18:00, 23:05.
    • You can also catch the same train at the Izmir airport (“Izmir Adnan Menderes Havalimani”), so you do not have to go to the Izmir city center and can avoid a detour. Basmane – Izmir airport takes approximately 25 minutes.
    • The Izmir airport – Selcuk / Denizli departures: 07:32, 11:08, 12:56, 14:56, 17:09, 18:23, 23:34.
    • Modern train, air conditioning working, no wifi, punctual, snacks (simit, ayran) offered at fair prices ($0.30 each).
    • The train station is located in the city center of Selcuk, 10 minutes walking distance from the Selcuk bus station (“otogar”).

Dolmus: Selcuk bus station – Ephesus

  • The minibus (dolmus) departs from the Selcuk bus station (otogar) in the city center. It takes 10 minutes depending on traffic, for $0.60 one way.
    • The minibus is departing from the first bay on the left-hand side in front of the station building. First bus at 07:00am, leaving on time (and not waiting for other passengers to fill up). Depending on the season, departures every 20-30 minutes. If in doubt, please ask any driver from another bus and they will point you to the right spot.
    • You will get off at the parking lot in front of the lower entrance gate, 3-5 minutes walking distance to the Celsius library and the amphitheater.
    • On the way back to Selcuk, the minibus will stop at exactly the same spot.

Where to Go Next

If landing at the Izmir airport, this guide to Izmir airport – Ephesus will help with the transportation options, prices and timetables (Izmir Airport – Ephesus).

If you are interested in Ephesus, you might also enjoy other stunning historical sites in Turkey, which I had found excellent:

Nemrut Dagi – a Greek monument on a mountain top with spectacular views (Nemrut Dagi: Greek ruins in spectacular scenery)

Göbekli tepe – allegedly the oldest human temple at 11,000 years, easily beating the Egyptian pyramids at 4,500 years or Stonehedge in the U.K. at 7,000 years (Sanliurfa and Göbekli tepe (11,000 years old!))

Finally, I also highly recommend visiting south-eastern Turkey (Anatolia). Historic sites, impressive cities, excellent food, friendly people and few foreign tourists. One of the my most memorable trips.

(Guide to Southern Turkey (Anatolia): Why Visit / Itinerary)

Izmir – Ephesus (2022)

By far the best option is to take the train from the Izmir airport or Izmir city to Selcuk for Ephesus, and then to Denizli for Pamukkale.

The Izmir airport is officially known as “Izmir Adnan Menderes Havalimani”, which you will see displayed on the signs. “Havalimani” is the “airport” in Turkish and will be a useful word.

Table of contents:

One convenient TCDD train

The planners and architects of the Izmir airport (“Izmir Adnan Menderes Havalimani”) have done an excellent job. The airport is a great hub to travel north to the Izmir city center or south to Selcuk for Ephesus.

The Izmir airport is well designed and has an excellent transportation system to the Izmir city center, Selcuk (for Ephesus) and Denizli (for Pamukkale).

The main railway station in Izmir center is Basmane, which is located in the city center walking distance to the tourist hotels, the main bazaar and the sea.

Same train: Izmir city – Izmir airport – Selcuk – Denizli

There is a TCDD train in the Izmir area, which will be very convenient for your travels.

It starts at the Basmane station in Izmir city center and 30 minutes later you arrive at the airport. Another 60 minutes later you arrive at Selcuk (for Ephesus). Finally, another 3.5 hours later you arrive in Denizli (for Pamukkale).

The train will have its final stop in Denizli, which will be displayed on the carriages (NOT Selcuk). Modern train, clean, air-conditioning working well, punctual, no wifi, snacks (simit and ayran at $0.30 offered)

In addition, if going to Ephesus, you do NOT have to travel to Izmir (as truly yours did), but can go from the airport directly to Selcuk (the closest town and the hub for Ephesus). In other words, you might save a day by visiting Ephesus directly and without making a detour to Izmir (an interesting but a detour nevertheless).

(1) Izmir city center – Izmir airport train

The train from the Izmir city center to the airport takes 30 minutes, $1.30 one way.

It departs from the Basmane station in the Basmane area (yes, the same official name) in the Izmir city center. It is next to the bazaar and the mid-range hotels, and a 15 minute walk to Alsancak.

Departures (as of November 2022): 07:10, 10:45, 12:30, 14:30, 16:45, 18:00, 23:05

(2) Izmir airport – Selcuk (for Ephesus) train

  • When exiting the arrivals terminal, follow the signs to the TCDD trains.
  • The station is located at the airport within the walking distance (5 mins) with escalators and lifts, convenient for luggage. You will NOT take an airport train (as at JFK or London Heathrow or Gatwick) to get to the station.
  • TCDD (Turkish Railways) train. The Izmir airport – Selcuk (for Ephesus) train takes 60 minutes, $1.50 one way
  • Departures (as of November 2022) : 07:32, 11:08, 12:56, 14:56, 17:09, 18:23, 23:34

(3) Selcuk – Denizli (for Pamukkale) train

It will take approximately 3.5 hours from Selcuk to Denizli.

Departure times (as of November 2022): 00:38, 08:34, 12:08, 13:55, 16:03, 18:15, 19:22

(4) Selcuk – Ephesus minibus

It takes approximately 10 minutes from the Selcuk center to the Ephesus lower entrance gate. You can either take a taxi or a minibus (dolmus) from the Selcuk bus station (otogar) located in the center, 10 minutes walking distance from the train station. If taking the dolmus, $0.60 one way.

The minibus is departing from the first bay on the left-hand side in front of the bus station building. First bus at 07:00am, leaving on time (and not waiting for other passengers to fill up). Depending on the season, departures every 20-30 minutes. If in doubt, please ask any driver from another bus and they will point you in the right direction.

You will get off at the parking lot in front of the lower entrance gate. It is the preferred gate to beat the tour bus groups. 3-5 minutes walking distance to the Celsius library and the amphitheater.

On the way back to Selcuk, the dolmus will stop exactly at the same spot.

(5) How to buy the train ticket?

There are two main options: (a) purchase in person at the station or (b) buy it online or on the app.

(a) At the station

Basmane station in Izmir

The starting station for the train is the Basmane station. It is in the Basmane area (yes, the official name), where the bazaar and the midrange hotels are located. Enter the station through the main entrance and go through to the round ticket office. There are usually two lines to two windows, it does not matter which one you choose as they are selling tickets to all destinations. The staff is usually speaking (some) English so no need for an online translator.

“Ticket for tomorrow, buy tomorrow”

Now, at Basmane we had an interesting experience. As obedient foreign tourists with no real Turkish language, we went to buy the tickets in the evening the day before. No crowds, no line, life was good. We asked for the tickets for a train to Selcuk the following morning. The ticket office gentleman responded politely “Ticket for today, buy today.” Straightforward, makes perfect sense. And then he added “Ticket for tomorrow, buy tomorrow.“

So we showed up the following morning. Please come at least 30 minutes before the scheduled departure time, as there will A LOT of people. Train to Selcuk and Denizli has many stops in small towns and villages. Contrary to us, all those passengers already knew that it is impossible to buy the ticket the day before, so all showed up pretty much at the same time 10-15 minutes before the departure.

You definitely want to be there before. Once you bought your ticket, you can go straight to your train, which will be already waiting.

Unallocated seat

When buying a ticket on the day in the station ticket office, you will receive an unallocated seat. There are carriages for the allocated and unallocated seats. Go to the unallocated one, as you do not want to be asked to vacate your seat in the allocated carriage.

Denizli and Selcuk stations

Our experience in the Denizli (for Pamukkale) and Selcuk (for Ephesus) stations was totally different. We repeated our obedient tourist routine the day before, and were able to purchase the tickets for the following day. In addition, we did get the allocated seats. The staff spoke excellent English. Moreover, there was no time pressure being watched by 50 local passengers anxious to catch their train.

(b) TCDD app

Later we also downloaded the TCDD (Turkish Railways) app. It has a blue train logo with the “TCDD TASIMACILIK AS” text. The app is excellent. It has an English option, is intuitive and accepted our credit card. Most importantly, it allows the advance purchase with a clearly laid out calendar.

Where to go next?

Beyond this guide to how to get from Izmir to Ephesus, for the overall Ephesus visiting tips (aka “How to be first at the Celsius library?”): Ephesus Visit – Top Tips

If continuing to Pamukkale: Izmir – Pamukkale (2022).

If you are going to the Antalya airport, this Antalya airport – Antalya city center guide will help (Antalya Airport – City Center).

Hatay: kunefe desert and Greek mosaics

Hatay is famous for its kunefe desert, excellent Greek mosaics at the local museum and the strong Arabic influence. The old town area is artfully renovated and converts to elegant cafes and restaurants, probably the heritage of its earlier French influence. This guide includes why visit, how to get there, where to stay, and where to go next.

Why to go to Hatay (Antakya)?

Hatay (or Antakya or Antioch) is three hours away (officially) from Gaziantep and is the capital of the southern province of Hatay. Until 1938 it was part of Syria and the French Mandate of Syria between 1920 and 1938.

Unfortunately, no French remnants like a fresh baguette or a croissant from your local boulangerie as in Vietnam (bánh mì!), but plenty of excellent Arabic and Arabic-infused food here. The city still has a strong Arabic presence with almost half of the population. There are also strong Christian (Greek Orthodox, Syriac) and Jewish influences.

On the history dimension, the Hatay Archeology Museum is another outstanding mosaic museum. If visited after Zeugma, you might be already mosaic museum-tired but it is still excellent. There are also some early Christianity sites: the church of Saint Peter is allegedly the first Christian church located on the hillside.

Finally, similar to the other south-eastern Anatolian cities, the food is excellent here but with an additional Arabic twist. Hatay is also the place famed for its sweet kunefe desert.

How to get there?

Similar to the other Anatolian cities, Hatay connects well to the other cities nearby, but with fewer connections. A word of caution though. When travelling from Gaziantep, there are effectively two local companies: Hatay Birlik and Yazar, with Hatay Birlik having all convenient departures between 06:00 and 08:00, which might be the preferred travel time during the summer heat.

Unfortunately, the Hatay Birlik coaches are not the regular Mercedes / Man / VDL ones, but old medium-size buses with 2+2 arrangement, no wifi and, more importantly, the air-conditioning not working (at least on my trip). In addition, Hatay Birlik is not taking the highway, but the parallel slower roads through the villages and towns to collect all passengers on the way.

And all this at 40km/h average speed, which I initially thought was the top velocity of our distinguished vehicle. Therefore, the trip will be long, cramped with standing passengers, no wifi or air-conditioning with open ceiling hatches blowing your head away. The ride is scheduled to be 3 hours and 35 minutes, but you will be lucky if you arrive in less than 4 hours and 30 minutes (I was not).

It probably pays to be philosophical on the way that this is the price to get to Hatay and be one of the few tourists there. There are other longer-distance companies (e.g., Öz Diyarbakir at 00:30, 14:30 and 15:45) but less frequent and they might be delayed.

On the positive side, Hatay Birlik will stop at the bus station in the city center, 10-15 minutes walking distance from the hotels, restaurants and cafes. The city center is compact and walkable, unless going to the archeology museum, there is no need for a taxi.

Where to stay in Hatay?

Hatay has a range of nice hotels artfully renovated all in the compact city center. I stayed at the Antik Beyazit Hotel, which I highly recommend. An old Ottoman hotel exquisitely renovated with high ceilings outstanding in the hot weather and a large room with nice furniture. Strong air-conditioning, powerful water flow and stable wifi. A comfortable bed, a sumptuous breakfast buffet, and a helpful and nice reception staff. Exceeded my expectations.

Surprisingly, Hatay is full of atmospheric cafes and restaurants located in the compact city center next to the river. Especially at night when they are well-lit, the area is perfect (and safe) to stroll around and watch the locals. As Hatay is further west, there is a wide variety of alcoholic beverages available, which was not the case in more conservative Sanliurfa.

The early Christian church of St Peter (or St Pierre as on the signs) is allegedly the first Christian temple located on the hillside on the road to the Hatay archeological museum.

Where to go next?

Within a few hours bus ride from Hatay, Anatolia offers other interesting historical sites:

and outstanding large cities:

For the overall guide to southern Turkey: Guide to Southern Turkey (Anatolia): Why Visit / Itinerary

Gaziantep

This Gaziantep travel guide has the following sections:

Why visit?

Welcome to the best food in Turkey! Widely considered the foodies heaven by other cities in Turkey, especially in the western part of the country. Even the humble Antep kebab on the street corner at 10pm is usually excellent.

After Gaziantep, if you visit other cities in Turkey, and mention that you have dined in Gaziantep, you will probably be treated as a minor celebrity. As such you might authoritatively judge the local kebab, lahmacun or pide.

Gaziantep is also famous for its pistachios considered to be some of the best in the country. All over Turkey you will see baklava, chocolate or ice cream described “with Gaziantep pistachios” (“Antep fistik”). There is also a local sweet desert katmer, which is lovingly mentioned all over Turkey.

Of course, there is an impressive citadel on the mountain top elegantly illuminated at night and countless mosques. For the history fans, one of the major draws to Antep is the Zeugma mosaics museum. It has one of the best collections of Roman and Byzantine mosaics in the world competing with Bardo in Tunisia.

Even if you are usually not into museums, please visit Zeugma, if only to see how the ancient Roman and Byzantines lived. In my opinion, impressive with outstanding presentation, more memorable than Pompeii or Herculaneum in Italy.

Just for those two reasons, this Gaziantep travel guide is planning to return.

How to get there?

Gaziantep, the sixth most populated city in Turkey, is well connected with all major cities in the region and Ankara / Istanbul. One of my favorite bus companies in Turkey, Ben Turizm, has its hub here. In my experience, it has been clean and punctual with strong wifi.

The long-distance bus / dolmus station is located 6 kms from the city center. There are taxis and many city buses departing frequently.

A taxi cost $2 and a city bus $0.30 in September 2022. For the city buses you will have to cross the main otogar building and walk through parking lot to the main road. The closest stop is immediately on the left. City buses accept credit cards.

Where to stay in Antep?

Antep has many accommodation options. The Utku Bey hotel is located in the city center next to the bazaar. My room was modern, clean, with a strong air conditioning and a nice city view from the top floor. Sumptuous breakfast, nice staff happy to share recommendations. Recommended.

What to do there?

Take it easy and enjoy it. You were sitting on several overnight coach rides. Hiked in the Cappadocia valleys. Getting burnt by the relentless sun in Ephesus or Troy. Trekking around the Van lake.

“Food capital of the world”?

It is time to rest and indulge the weary body. And what better place than Antep, which even UNESCO recognized for its remarkable food? Some even call it “the food capital of the world”.

Kyoto, Tokyo, Bangkok, Xian, New York, Bologna, Paris, Lyon or the Scandinavian vegan places might disagree, but the food is definitely outstanding in Antep.

And at incredible prices for this quality. It seems the benchmark across the city is very high fuelling the competition. It will be difficult to have a bad and overpriced meal here.

Zeugma

In addition, the Zeugma mosaics museum ( https://muze.gov.tr/muze-detay?SectionId=GZN01&DistId=GZN ) in Gaziantep is also not to be missed. Even if you have seen the mosaics in the Mosaics Museum in Sanliurfa or Hatay, Zeugma is on a different level.

It is the biggest Roman mosaics museum in the world with 1700 m2. More importantly, their quality is superb. The original detail is impressive, the colors are well preserved and the exhibition is well-lit and -arranged.

Those must have been wealthy mansions to afford this level of artistic workmanship.

Here you will see the famous “portrait of a Gypsy girl”, which is displayed on many Gaziantep or Turkey advertisements, and also above. However, some art historians believe not Gypsy and not a girl but Alexander the Great.

In any case, if you are going to see only one mosaics museum in Turkey, make it Zeugma.

The museum was opened in 2011 and is one of many airy, well-designed and well-lit institutions with good air-conditioning (almost a sufficient reason to visit in the summer).

It is outside of the old city next to a busy highway. A 30 minute walk from the old city, but not recommended in the hot weather. Secondly, there is not much to see when walking there. A taxi should be around $3 depending on the mood of the driver and your negotiation skills.

Where to eat (this Gaziantep travel guide favorite topic)?

A great dilemma given the excellent choices and the limited number of meals (and calories). Some of the main things to try in Antep:

Antep kebab

It seems every major city in Anatolia has its own kebab flavor (e.g., Urfa, Adana) and Gaziantep is competing for the best kebab crown as well. The kebabs here are juicy, crunchy and of high-quality. Some of the best were:

Yörem Döner. A family establishment next to the bazaar main street. The owner Ibrahim speaks English, his wife will make a great salad for you, overall a satisfying meal in a friendly setting. Popular with Western tourists.

Piknik Kebab. Excellent meats with home-made Turkish yoghurt (aryan) next to the bazaar area. Outstanding Adana lamb kebab.

Muhsinzade Türk Şiş Kebab. A tiny place inside the bazaar wildly busy with the local bazaar traders. A proverbial hole in the wall, not a setting for a romantic dinner, you will be sitting next to other locals (also families) eating excellent food with friendly people.

This is real stuff. Wobbly plastic chairs. Abundant bowls of spices on the table. No paper menu (even in Turkish). Everybody knows one another.

In the middle of it all will be you, a foreign tourist.

Everybody, including other guests at your table, will try to ensure that you have the best meal in Antep (or the world). This is a place to enjoy a truly local experience, which will be remembered with a smile for a long time.

Definitely try katmer (this Gaziantep travel guide: top desert in Turkey)

Beyran soup (Metanet lokantasi)

An Antep specialty, a traditional spicy breakfast soup made out of rice and lamb meat. Please ask for the standard spicy version, it is better and not excessively spicy. It will be served with bread and lemon to squeeze into the soup.

There are many restaurants serving beyran in Antep. My favorite was Metanet lokantasi, which opens at 5am and was full by 8am mainly with the local families (always a good sign). Metanet seems to be a big operation with the Metanet katmer shop on the other side of street, which was also full of tourists in the morning.

Katmer (Katmerci Cumaali Usta)

An incredible thin pastry filled with cheese, pistachios and some sugar. It is usually eaten at breakfast (or allegedly after the wedding night). In smaller places it is made to order and served straight hot from the oven. Usually a 30cm by 30cm square so it comfortably feeds 3-4 persons.

Katmer places do not usually bake smaller sizes or sell fractions. That might be good or bad from your own perspective. So try a piece of the amazing hot katmer, and ask for the remainder to be packed (standard request). In spite of the ingredients and its size, my katmer was not heavy, greasy or too sugary.

Just delicate and exquisite, with the obligatory water (or, even better, Turkish yoghurt aryan). When walking around, you will see many katmer places in the old town.

However, my favorite was Katmerci Cumaali Usta, next to the citadel, a 15 minute walk from the bazaar. A small family establishment with no menu (nothing but katmer).

$4.50 for the whole serving in September 2022. The price of a muffin in New York.

Even if you are on a diet (and who isn’t?), please try even a tiny piece of katmer when in Gaziantep.

Lahmacun (Gözde Pide Lahmacun)

A Turkish-style very thin-crust pizza with various toppings. Lahmacun is popular in many cities all across Turkey. However, this version at Gözde Pide was sublimely thin, crusty and full of flavor.

When straight from the oven, an excellent light meal (or more substantial if 2-3 lahmacun are ordered as many locals do). The place seems to be constantly full also with families, always an excellent sign.

Where to go next?

Beyond this Gaziantep travel guide, Anatolia offers other interesting historical sites (and more amazing food):

and outstanding large cities:

For the overall guide to southern Turkey: Guide to Southern Turkey (Anatolia): Why Visit / Itinerary.

In addition to this Gazinatep travel guide, please check other destinations to visit without crowds: Avoid Crowds When Travelling – Top 21 Tips (2022).

Diyarbakir

Come to Diyarbakir for the historic city, and you will remember it as the city with the best breakfast in Turkey. This guide to includes why go there, how to get there, where to stay, what to do, where to eat (serious business in this city!), and where to go next.

Why visit Diyarbakir?

Diyarbakir is the largest city in south-eastern Turkey next to the mighty Tigris river. It is considered by some to be the most beautiful city in the region. The old city, which is clearly defined by the imposing miles of antique walls, is a little run down, but has a distinct character different from the modern areas even immediately outside the walls. Old mosques and caravanserai. Men congregating in tea houses. Street vendors selling freshest fruits and vegetables. Cats sleeping in the corner next to some old Byzantine stones. The smell of freshly-baked bread and donuts (“simit”) wafting in the air.

All this makes for an unhurried exploration concentrated on the flow of life, and enjoying an excellent breakfast or coffee in one of the merchants’ old houses converted to lovely artsy cafes. In short, a delightful destination for a few days to enjoy life with no pressure to scale another mountain, spend hours in a museum or bungy-jump a bridge.

How to get to there?

The transportation is excellent also in Diyarbakir with long-distance coaches and minibuses (dolmus) to all main cities. Sanliurfa is 2 hours 30 minutes away, a relatively short ride given the distances in Turkey. There are several good local coach companies including Öz Diyarbakir, Özlem Diyarbakir or Star Diyarbakir. In my experience, the Öz Diyarbakir coaches were on time, clean, with wifi working and the comfortable 2+1 seating.

The main bus station (“otogar”) is not close to the city center but 10 km away. The usual choice of a taxi (a few $ if you do not get overcharged) or a city minibus (dolmus) are plentiful.

If opting for the dolmus, you will have to exit the bus station through the main gate where your coach has entered, and immediately turn right. Walk to the next roundabout for about 5 minutes, the dolmus stop is diagonally across the roundabout. The next dolmus will be probably in a few minutes at most, the journey to old town will take, depending on traffic, 15-20 minutes. For the old town get off at the roundabout next to the old town (Mountain Gate or Diyarbakir Surlari). If unsure, please ask the fellow passangers who will politely help. A one-way ride was $0.30 in September 2022. The old town is compact and walkable and most destinations might be reached within 10-15 minutes.

Where to stay in Diyarbakir?

Many choices exist in Diyarbakir’s old town, where most tourists tend to stay. There are bigger modern hotels attracting tour groups or smaller establishments. However, I liked the Köprücü Hotel: one minute walking from the roundabout where you might get off from the bus station, on the main road across the Nebi Cami mosque. My room was impeccably clean with daily refresh, the bed was comfortable, the air conditioning worked well, there was a traditional Turkish healthy breakfast, and the reception staff was friendly. All that at a good price point, what’s not to like?

What to do there?

Diyarbakir was a major trading town in the Roman/Byzantine and Islamic times and generated considerable wealth visible in the city walls, mosques, caravanserai and houses converted to cafes. The main sites include:

(1) Ulu Cami, the main mosque

Formerly a Christian cathedral, this large building complex is entered through a single wooden gate. At sunrise (or sunset) hugely peaceful and atmospheric. Diyarbakir became a Muslim city in 639 and the former Saint Thomas cathedral was converted into the city’s main mosque.

The current mosque was, however, rebuilt in the 1090s. You can still see some of the earlier Roman influence (e.g., Corinthian columns from the local Roman amphitheater). You will also see some Arabic inscriptions, which were later added to the Roman elements. There is also an interesting sundial on one of the ablution fountains in the middle of the mosque. It was designed by a 13th-century engineer Al Jazari, one of the most respected engineers of the Islamic world.

Ulu Cami is also interesting because its courtyard has four clearly-defined sides, which represent the four different schools of Sunni Islam: Hanafi, Maliki, Shafi’i and Hanbali. Diyarbakir is mainly Hanafi.

(2) City walls around Diyarbakir’s old town

They are 5.7 kms in length making them the second-longest wall in the world after the Great Wall of China! They were constructed in the 4th century AD by the Roman emperor Constantius II with later additions and modifications. A walk along the city walls away from the main gate will show the impressive well-preserved sections with Roman (imperial eagles) and Islamic engravings. A word of caution: do not attempt this walk in the summer heat (as truly yours might have done), as there are sections with no shade in direct sunlight. Also, it is not advisable to walk the city walls or enter their individual towers for safety reasons.

(3) The Citadel

Many things to see here. A well-preserved section of the city walls with a museum. An interesting active Prophet Süleyman-Nasiriye Mosque. A tree-lined park in front with the local families. Impressive views from the walls towards the river and the plains. There is a the partially-reconstructed Saint George church. Its dome does not exist anymore but even the remainings hint at the scale of the original temple. Especially recommended during sunset.

(4) Caravansarai on the main road opposite the main mosque

Currently a booming place for cafes, shops and souvenirs. The architecture is lovely but it had a distinct over-touristed factor.

(5) Small cafes or restaurants in the renovated merchants’ homes

They are 2-5 minutes away from the main road. Artfully renovated, with internal courtyards, some offering live music. Exquisite with trees, small fountains and period furniture. They usually serve excellent breakfast (“kahvalti” pronounced “kah-vahl-tuh”), coffee, light lunch and dinner. A perfect place to start your day, escape the midday sun and just enjoy the moment (or three). There will be plenty of locals and most likely you will be one of the few (or only) foreigner there. Most probably you will be met with a broad smile and the obligatory question “Do you like Diyarbakir?”. Two magic words in Turkish (“lütfen kahvalti”, “breakfast please”) will produce rows and rows of savory and sweet delicacies, and make your day.

(6) Diyarbakir’s new city

Outside of the old city there is a vibrant new city with lively cafes and restaurants. A completely different feel from the old city, please do not exclude it from your plans.

Where to eat in Diyarbakir?

Eating here is serious business. The quality is high, the competition in town fierce. And the food competition with other Anatolian cities is strong and seems to be a source of local pride. You will eat well here, and only for a few dollars.

(1) Zinciriye Konaği Kahvalti Ve Cafe

This is one of the reasons why Diyarbakir has the best breakfast in Turkey. A traditional breakfast (kahvalti) in a courtyard of a renovated house is guaranteed to be both a culinary and visual experience. I found the Zinciriye Konaği Kahvalti Ve Cafe excellent. It is located next to the main mosque Ulu Cami, exit through the small gate with the wooden door diagonally the main mosque entrance. The restaurant is to your right with the entrance through the small parking lot. A wealthy Islamic house tastefully renovated with trees and plants plus a fountain with period furniture. On the day I visited kahvalti comprised of 25 separate dishes including the Turkish-style scrambled eggs with sausage similar to chorizo and home-made yoghurt. You can stay here for 10 minutes or several hours after all those delicious calories. Just sip tea and marvel at Silk Road’s merchants’ quality of life.

In September 2022 all that for $5 (not a typo).

Diyarbakir breakfast
Breakfast in Diyarbakir for 1 (one) person

(2) Diyarbakirevi Kahvalticafe

Another competitor for the best breakfast in Diyarbakir and Turkey. An excellent place in a similar shaded courtyard setting is Diyarbakirevi Kahvalticafe. It is located further down the main road on the opposite side. Smaller portions and less calories but also delicious, all for $4.40. Similarly, few foreign tourists.

(3) Ciğerci Ramazan

Diyarbakir is also famous for its lamb liver kebab (“ciğer kebabi”). It is competing heavily against other cities (e.g., Sanliurfa) for the crown of the best ciğer kebab in Anatolia. There are several contenders for the top spot in Diyarbakir’s old (and new) city as well.

Ciğerci Ramazan is one minute from the main road. This is real stuff: only locals with families (always an excellent sign), no Western tourists, no English menu. Other good signs include a huge grill with appetizing smells, owner working and greeting you when entering, and nice staff. Finally, unlimited bread and salad (try that in New York or London!) with tea served promptly at the end, all excellent for $5 (not a typo again).

The ciğer kebab here is larger than in Sanliurfa with sizable juicy and flavorful chunks.

(4) Sanliurfa Lahmacun ve Pide Evi

Lahmacun is similar to a thin-crust (or very thin-crust) pizza with toppings on top. Straight from the oven piping hot and usually not greasy. It is an excellent appetizer or a meal by itself as served with salad or hot peppers on the side. This place is usually packed with locals, always an excellent sign. For me Sanliurfa Lahmacun ve Pide Evi was one of the best places to try in Diyarbakir. One minute from the main street in a side street.

Where to go next?

Within a few hours bus ride from Diyarbakir, Anatolia offers other interesting historical sites:

and outstanding large cities:

Also, for the overall guide to southern Turkey: Guide to Southern Turkey (Anatolia): Why Visit / Itinerary